This is a new car to me that I bought with the no start engine. Only 42000 miles since last timing belt change . Here's what I found when I opened it up.
Several bolts on water pump housing were loose. Alternator lower bolt was broken. The tensioner pulley was completely broken apart so I don't have any pictures of that . Water pump shaft was bent and water composed inoperative. That's why the coloring on the water pump pulley is shows discoloring from the Heat. Who knows what happened in terms of the sequence....
Anyone ever see this on a Lexus? I've had 10 Lexus before, worked as a mechanic 30 years, and I've never seen this before.
Selling to highest bidder on eBay. I suppose it is appropriate to post here:
It has been a good car. Rebuilt ECU according the LSCowboy and Yamae recommended capacitors. Shifts like a dream.
New transmission mount and timing belt and water pump done this past week 8/20/17.
Leather as seen in pics but I just found an exact car with nicer leather seats also 110K, that I can give you that info if you are interested.
If interested in this car please reach me at 781-449-9990. I and the car are located in Sarasota Florida. Always has been a Florida car.
Ok, so i pulled a dumb and challenged myself to build a car in 1 week, putting a Lexus 1uz onto a w58 into a Mk3 Supra,
but I hit a major roadblock... My engine won't run, it'll crank but nothing more. I've been trying to get my engine to run for the past three days, literally have been working on it for 10 hours each day at least, and have somehow gotten nowhere.
What I have -
-I have the 1UZFE VVTi engine (I believe it came out of a 99-00 Lexus SC400) just the motor, no transmission
-I have the ECU (that I believe is the original stock ECU)
-I have the stock wiring engine wiring loom which came pre-plugged in and all that
My engine again
Wiring loom and ECU
What I've done -
-Connected the EB2 (2) wire which is black with red stripe (I believe is ignition 1) directly to the positive to the battery
-Connected the EB2 (3) wire which is also black with red stripe but physically larger(I believe the starter power wire) directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is black with orange stripe with silver dots directly to the positive on the battery
-Connected the IJ2 (11) wire which is yellow with black stripe directly to the positive on the battery
-Put in new SAE 5W-30 oil, there is an oil leak but it has enough oil to run
top left EB2(3), middle bottom EB2(2), top right EB1(4)
What I've tried -
-Used starter fluid spray directly in the air intake, did NOT work
-I plugged in a blade fuse in the power and ground wire(i think) of the transmission plug to try to trick it into thinking it was in park because maybe the ECU wouldn't let it run, did NOT work
-Bought and connected a MAF sensor (from a junkyard Toyota) and plugged it right in without an air intake, i was told it would run without one but got one anyways because i also heard it the ECU won't let it run without MAF input, did NOT work
-Looped (plug a wire in power running to ground) O2 sensors near transmission plug, tested with and without, did NOT work
-Cleaned spark plugs for healthy ground
-Tested power to ECU, it was receiving power (12.6 Volts approx)
-Probably a lot more but writing this from my crappy memory now
MAF sensor plugged into MY engine
Transmission plug with blade fuse
Final words -
- I believe the ECU is not sending signals to the spark plugs, therefore there's no combustion, I don't know why
- I have spent hours and hours and hours on lots of forums trying to figure this out myself, obviously couldn't solve the problem
- I may just be missing something important, honestly I don't know now
- I tried to be as descriptive as can be because I know that helps others diagnose the problem
- If you have a question just ask, and I'll answer it to the best of my capabilities or I will honestly tell you I don't know
- PLEASE TEXT OR CALL ME AT 512-720-1166 IF YOU THINK YOU CAN HELP, OR HAVE A SUGGESTION
More engine photos -
94 SC400 185K miles (Non interference engine)
Sorry could not find much in this forum or the web about this so apologies in case I missed a similar case.
My mechanic just told me that I have bent valves. Before I go into the history, a simple question:
- what are the conditions, other than perhaps a timing belt issue, under which valves get bent? Any and all ideas welcome (goes without saying, but theories need to be backed by mechanically defensive reasoning and data :-) ).
Car was parked for over two weeks (occasional use for 1-2 months prior to that - driven less than 1000 miles in this time frame). No engine / mechanical problems with the car before this. On starting, heard a clunky, metal sound and car would not start I was not the one that experienced this. My mistake was not cranking the engine when I got to the car (to limit damage) and started the following .... I knew the car was overdue for a timing belt (last change was at 75K miles). I had even contemplated ordering TB parts a week prior to this incident (I did the TB work on my LS400 a couple years ago) I assumed it is the timing belt, so started disassembly while I ordered the parts I saw that the timing belt was ok (not broken, but it had quite a bit of wear). I did not think about checking slippage or such. I just assumed since it hadn't split, it wasn't the issue that caused the car to not start (default action of the non-interference engine). So I figured that something else could have gone wrong. After some research and discussing with the person that experienced (2), I suspected that it might be the starter. So I started disassembling to get to it (you can read in this forum or on the Internet what a massive PITA that is). Well, this work ran over 3-4 weeks because I work away from where the car was, could only do this on the weekend, and I was soon to leave on a 25-day international trip So I reached out to a mechanic that we've had good experience with (on a non-Lexus) and towed the car to him. (BTW, I had meticulously organized the disassembly which he greatly appreciated but assured me that even if I had taken the parts in a box, he can handle it, given he was doing this for 35+ years. He also knew some of the nuances of the car, saying he owned a Lexus himself. Basically, he gave me confidence). While I was away, he put together the new starter, reassembled the manifold, etc etc as well as the timing belt/waterpump/rotors/plugs/etc. However he reported that the car would not start He said he did a compression test and 3 of the cylinders came up low, and he assessed that the values are bent. He couldn't tell me what would have caused this. So,
- can you tell if this was this the problem in the first place?
- OR, was the timing belt not done right causing a timing issue leading to the valves to be bent? is it even possible with a non-interference engine?
The cost to do the valves is quoted at $2K. (The starter, TB and related labor was $800 -- reasonable I believe.)
Is it worth doing the valves or is it time to junk this beauty?
Thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance.