This is a new car to me that I bought with the no start engine. Only 42000 miles since last timing belt change . Here's what I found when I opened it up.
Several bolts on water pump housing were loose. Alternator lower bolt was broken. The tensioner pulley was completely broken apart so I don't have any pictures of that . Water pump shaft was bent and water composed inoperative. That's why the coloring on the water pump pulley is shows discoloring from the Heat. Who knows what happened in terms of the sequence....
Anyone ever see this on a Lexus? I've had 10 Lexus before, worked as a mechanic 30 years, and I've never seen this before.
Selling to highest bidder on eBay. I suppose it is appropriate to post here:
It has been a good car. Rebuilt ECU according the LSCowboy and Yamae recommended capacitors. Shifts like a dream.
New transmission mount and timing belt and water pump done this past week 8/20/17.
Leather as seen in pics but I just found an exact car with nicer leather seats also 110K, that I can give you that info if you are interested.
If interested in this car please reach me at 781-449-9990. I and the car are located in Sarasota Florida. Always has been a Florida car.
Hey everyone, 1st post on this site because I need some serious help. I tackled the timing belt this weekend and am ready to install the new t-belt, but the cams moved on me. How can I move them back and where is TDC for this engine? Is it at the 50 degree mark or at the "T" mark? I've managed to confuse myself and want to be 100% sure as this is a critical procedure.. Thanks
94 SC400 185K miles (Non interference engine)
Sorry could not find much in this forum or the web about this so apologies in case I missed a similar case.
My mechanic just told me that I have bent valves. Before I go into the history, a simple question:
- what are the conditions, other than perhaps a timing belt issue, under which valves get bent? Any and all ideas welcome (goes without saying, but theories need to be backed by mechanically defensive reasoning and data :-) ).
Car was parked for over two weeks (occasional use for 1-2 months prior to that - driven less than 1000 miles in this time frame). No engine / mechanical problems with the car before this. On starting, heard a clunky, metal sound and car would not start I was not the one that experienced this. My mistake was not cranking the engine when I got to the car (to limit damage) and started the following .... I knew the car was overdue for a timing belt (last change was at 75K miles). I had even contemplated ordering TB parts a week prior to this incident (I did the TB work on my LS400 a couple years ago) I assumed it is the timing belt, so started disassembly while I ordered the parts I saw that the timing belt was ok (not broken, but it had quite a bit of wear). I did not think about checking slippage or such. I just assumed since it hadn't split, it wasn't the issue that caused the car to not start (default action of the non-interference engine). So I figured that something else could have gone wrong. After some research and discussing with the person that experienced (2), I suspected that it might be the starter. So I started disassembling to get to it (you can read in this forum or on the Internet what a massive PITA that is). Well, this work ran over 3-4 weeks because I work away from where the car was, could only do this on the weekend, and I was soon to leave on a 25-day international trip So I reached out to a mechanic that we've had good experience with (on a non-Lexus) and towed the car to him. (BTW, I had meticulously organized the disassembly which he greatly appreciated but assured me that even if I had taken the parts in a box, he can handle it, given he was doing this for 35+ years. He also knew some of the nuances of the car, saying he owned a Lexus himself. Basically, he gave me confidence). While I was away, he put together the new starter, reassembled the manifold, etc etc as well as the timing belt/waterpump/rotors/plugs/etc. However he reported that the car would not start He said he did a compression test and 3 of the cylinders came up low, and he assessed that the values are bent. He couldn't tell me what would have caused this. So,
- can you tell if this was this the problem in the first place?
- OR, was the timing belt not done right causing a timing issue leading to the valves to be bent? is it even possible with a non-interference engine?
The cost to do the valves is quoted at $2K. (The starter, TB and related labor was $800 -- reasonable I believe.)
Is it worth doing the valves or is it time to junk this beauty?
Thanks in advance for any feedback or guidance.
By LS Fan
So I have a 1998 LS400 with 170,000 miles on it. It has been babied and garaged. It is in fantastic shape. One morning this week I started the car, drove about a mile and noticed that the temperature gauge was just under the red line. It normally hangs out just under the halfway mark. I tuned around and drove home as not wanting to run it too hot. Here's what i checked on to determine the issue. Water pump, timing belt, thermostat, all radiator hoses and new coolant was just done 12,000 miles ago. This check out normal. Then I thought that it might be the sensor/sending unit indicating the wrong temperature to display on the gauge. I was going to just buy a new one and change it out, but then I thought of hooking up my OBDII scan tool to check the engine temperature. Sure enough the engine temperature read normal through the real-time scan tool. Here's my logic. If the scan tool shows the correct temperature as read from the ecm computer, it must be getting the temperature sent to it from the sensor correctly which means that there isn't a reason to change out the temperature sensor as a possible fix. I believe that I can rule it out. I think that only leaves me the instrument gauge itself that could be the culprit in this issue. Also, I think that this is the part I need. CLICK-HERE
If this is the issue, would it be better to just buy the gauge and change it out or send the instrument cluster in somewhere to be rebuilt? Also, occasionally the tach sticks at zero so a good slap on the top of the dashboard above the gauge fixes it. Maybe a rebuild of the instrument cluster would fix this too.
Please help me figure out this dilemma. I try to keep everything on the car working at 100% so even if the car isn't running hot, I want the gauge to report the correct temperature.