sha4000

Are you sure the trunk lock is not pushed in near the drivers knee? you can try what I did years ago when I locked my keys in the trunk. This actually happened to me twice :chairshot: the first time i removed the woofer and fished around for a long time b/c there ws a lot of stuff in my trunk. The second time i removed the panel on the drivers side where the trunk and tank release levers are and closed the circuit with a piece of wire and the trunk opened right up.you see when you pull the lever it makes the contacts touch sending power to the switch which opens the trunk, but when you press the keyhole in it slides something in there that prevents you from doing this. DON'T go to the dealer or buy a new set of keys , just get a piece of wire and remove the panel to gain access to the back of the trunk release and use the wire to run voltage to the switch and call it a day

These cars are built for miles so I would not worry. What kind of repairs are you talking about? And what would you be delivering?

I would think so.

Was the code P0420/P0430? If so these codes are usually generated when there's a leak at the Y pipe gasket where the converter and Y pipe connect. Easy and most cost effective fix it to get some exhaust paste and slather it all around the joint and let it dry, clear the codes and test it out. If the cats are really bad this will not work but 99% of the time the cats are good and this leak sets off the code. I've had those codes several times over the years and I just use the paste whenever they pop back up. This is a well known issue with these cars.

Those buttons should illuminate if they bother you that much and I'm sure it does these guys should be able to fix it if you can't. https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/

If the coolant color is orange then someone put dexcool in there which is a big problem especially if they never changed it. Coolant should be changed at least every 2 years and if you google dexcool there have been plenty discussions across the web about it's effect on cooling systems. I used it for a couple of years with no ill effects but flushed it out and put Toyota red coolant in there which is the OEM fluid. The hoses could be dry rotted or the clamps might be bad. That still would not explain the fill hole. I would flush the whole system repeatedly and fill it up with the correct fluid and monitor for leaks. Edit: I see the crust is not on the filler hole but on the hose in back and around the thermostat housing gasket so I would also replace the thermostat and gasket which is pretty inexpensive.

The first pi The first pic is the fill hole for the coolant. You remove the bolt to bleed the system. I have a 98 which is slightly different but here's a video to get you started. I would flush the whole system if it were my car. The coolant seems to have a leak and is crusty. The coolant probably has NEVER been changed. I would also refill with Toyota red coolant or the equivalent you can find at advance auto which is Zerex Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGwyjv36OU The second pic is the heater valve which control the heat in the car. The 2 hoses are supposed to be connected to the valve which opens and closes when you change the heat settings.

That's great.

But why did the fuse blow in the first Place? Seems like it might happen again if you don't identify the underlying problem?

You have 2 cats and a resonator on the mid pipe that does double duty as a resonator/cat.

Congrats on the purchase and browse this thread.

This is for the shift solenoid C. You can try cleaning your throttle body First but make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Make sure to remove the plate on top and clean the holes.

Do you have any codes? All I can think of is that you might have damaged the throttle plate.

With that many miles It could be Your maf sensor, IAC valve, throttle body probably needs to be cleaned also but the codes will point you in the right direction.

You should have checked your battery first before changing out the alternator. You should have a check engine light on so pull the codes and post back here. This could be a MAF issue. Does the car die while idling in park?

it it does not raise it just pops open.

Did you do the check in the second post of this thread? Also I would remove the ECU and check the capacitors. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

No, it's available to whoever owns the car.

I believe this is the normal behaviour of the 8 peed transmission. My 2007 does the same thing, jumps high on initial thrust and holds gears for longer after releasing pedal at higher speeds.

I've had this happen with different vehicles and each time either me hitting the accelerator instead of the brake or stepping on both at the same time and the vehicle stopping veryyyyy slowly until I released the accelerator.

Make sure to clear the code first and apply the exhaust paste when the car is cold. Give it some time to dry. Come back and let us know what happens.

This 420/430 code usually pops up because of a leak at the catalytic converter flanges. This is a well documented issue. I get the code every once in a while and I just slather some exhaust paste on the flanges to seal up the leak and it usually makes the code go away. I've done this maybe twice in the past 5-6 years. The cats on these cars usually last the life of the car so I would not replace them unless you know for sure that is the real culprit and the dealer telling you that is not a confirmation in my book. Try my method and see what happens.

Check this thread out. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/910181-ls-400-how-to-replace-transmission-solenoid.html

Why do you think your cats are bad? Are you getting the P0420/P0430 code?

I fixed mine years ago the same way and wrapped it with electrical tape which lasted a couple of years before I had to redo the connections. Finally i just bought a new plug and play sensors in 2018 since the prices had dropped significantly.