sha4000

Black smoke usually means too much for in the exhaust. I would definitely do something to fix the issue because the cats are probably taking a pounding.

What color is the smoke?

This usually dudes the problem. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/performance-and-maintenance/49783-tilt-steering-repair.html

This is a pretty common issue.

Have you checked YouTube? It has videos for everything.

You would have to remove the back seat and test power to the connector.

Anything is possible but I don't advise it. These cars are old and I would not start messing around with the electronics. You might trigger something in the security system.

I agree with the previous poster that the other Lexus forum is much more active but I'll give my input. I did this job on my 2007 460L. I replaced the 8 arms in the front of the car for less than $400 and a couple hours of time but I'm a DIY type and I do all the work on my cars short of engine of transmission work. I would suggest you look on Ebay for the control arms and find a different shop. This is not a difficult job and there's no way that they should be charging that much labor to do it. That price they quoted you is what an actual Lexus dealership would charge you for the job and they would be using OEM control arms. Either way it's highway robbery and they know it but because this issue has been well documented and overblown IMO they get to set the price. Most shops want to use their own parts and they frown on customers bringing their own parts for several reasons. Sometimes they use unless they get the parts from the actual dealer they buy aftermarket control arms just like you would but then they mark the price up. Also f they have to warranty the job they want to know that it was a good known part which they can't verify if you bring your own parts. There's no way I would pay over 2k for this job and even that is too much for me since I can do the work myself. 2k is if you can't DIY and have to take it to a shop. These are the front lower arms that I just installed in October. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Lower-Control-Arm-Ball-Joint-Driver-Passenger-Kit-Set-4pc-for-Lexus-LS460/232704738601?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I did the upper arms in 2018 and I purchased them directly from the Febest.us website and got all 4 for $80 but they no longer list them on the site. The have them on ebay but the price has went up dramatically. https://www.ebay.com/b/Febest-Parts-for-Lexus-LS460/6030/bn_24521694 I would just get the front upper and lower from the same company that I posted in the first link. They have a lifetime warranty on the parts. If something were to changed you would still have to pay the shop to do the labor. No company is going to warranty the labor unless you got the parts from them and they did the labor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Upper-Lower-Control-Arms-Ball-Joints-Sway-Links-for-Lexus-LS460-New/312999475896?hash=item48e038fab8:g:EsoAAOSwlztefaGn

The quickest way is to go to an Autozone. They will read the codes and then clear them for free.

Are you sure the trunk lock is not pushed in near the drivers knee? you can try what I did years ago when I locked my keys in the trunk. This actually happened to me twice :chairshot: the first time i removed the woofer and fished around for a long time b/c there ws a lot of stuff in my trunk. The second time i removed the panel on the drivers side where the trunk and tank release levers are and closed the circuit with a piece of wire and the trunk opened right up.you see when you pull the lever it makes the contacts touch sending power to the switch which opens the trunk, but when you press the keyhole in it slides something in there that prevents you from doing this. DON'T go to the dealer or buy a new set of keys , just get a piece of wire and remove the panel to gain access to the back of the trunk release and use the wire to run voltage to the switch and call it a day

These cars are built for miles so I would not worry. What kind of repairs are you talking about? And what would you be delivering?

I would think so.

Was the code P0420/P0430? If so these codes are usually generated when there's a leak at the Y pipe gasket where the converter and Y pipe connect. Easy and most cost effective fix it to get some exhaust paste and slather it all around the joint and let it dry, clear the codes and test it out. If the cats are really bad this will not work but 99% of the time the cats are good and this leak sets off the code. I've had those codes several times over the years and I just use the paste whenever they pop back up. This is a well known issue with these cars.

Those buttons should illuminate if they bother you that much and I'm sure it does these guys should be able to fix it if you can't. https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/

If the coolant color is orange then someone put dexcool in there which is a big problem especially if they never changed it. Coolant should be changed at least every 2 years and if you google dexcool there have been plenty discussions across the web about it's effect on cooling systems. I used it for a couple of years with no ill effects but flushed it out and put Toyota red coolant in there which is the OEM fluid. The hoses could be dry rotted or the clamps might be bad. That still would not explain the fill hole. I would flush the whole system repeatedly and fill it up with the correct fluid and monitor for leaks. Edit: I see the crust is not on the filler hole but on the hose in back and around the thermostat housing gasket so I would also replace the thermostat and gasket which is pretty inexpensive.

The first pi The first pic is the fill hole for the coolant. You remove the bolt to bleed the system. I have a 98 which is slightly different but here's a video to get you started. I would flush the whole system if it were my car. The coolant seems to have a leak and is crusty. The coolant probably has NEVER been changed. I would also refill with Toyota red coolant or the equivalent you can find at advance auto which is Zerex Asian. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGGwyjv36OU The second pic is the heater valve which control the heat in the car. The 2 hoses are supposed to be connected to the valve which opens and closes when you change the heat settings.

That's great.

But why did the fuse blow in the first Place? Seems like it might happen again if you don't identify the underlying problem?

You have 2 cats and a resonator on the mid pipe that does double duty as a resonator/cat.

Congrats on the purchase and browse this thread.

This is for the shift solenoid C. You can try cleaning your throttle body First but make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Make sure to remove the plate on top and clean the holes.

Do you have any codes? All I can think of is that you might have damaged the throttle plate.

With that many miles It could be Your maf sensor, IAC valve, throttle body probably needs to be cleaned also but the codes will point you in the right direction.

You should have checked your battery first before changing out the alternator. You should have a check engine light on so pull the codes and post back here. This could be a MAF issue. Does the car die while idling in park?

it it does not raise it just pops open.