SKperformance Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Owners who buy their cars brand new and perform all the required scheduled preventive maintenance on time using OEM parts and premium gasoline will have engines that are always running perfectly and therefore always generating minimal concentrations of unburned hydrocarbon emissions. Since their exhausts are inherently so clean carbon deposits build up in the EGR system only at a very slow rate. ← That is an awfully wide spectrum to say all owners who do this have perfect cars. I have carbon deposits in my egr which sticks only when the engine is cold,works fine once warm. btw my exhaust tip still shines like new with only a basic wipe when i wash the car every month or so, so my carbon deposits are minimal on the exhaust end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWJ Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 This thread is still going strong I see. Heh... 94 octane leaves carbon. My car only saw 93+ and when I took the manifolds off and blasted the head with carb cleaned the exahust ports were so thick with carbon I could litterally scoop it out with my fingers. EGT temps may be reduced with egr but It would need to be proven. It is an emissions issue only. So yea, crap gas will gum the works faster, but these days, I'm seeing a lot of craptastic gas. Time to start running c16 I guess. I'll have to cut the visits to the strip club down. <_< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 ...and backed up shadow. Backup from what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monarch Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 wow...i just wanted to know if it is damaging to the engine, after checking out a few sites like mkiv and a few others, there is no damage to be done by removing the egr system, if you are going for stock thats great, i just want some added performance and a solution at the expense of not being stock, i think ill manage ← As mehullica pointed out, you might actually hurt performance by disabling the EGR system: In this official Toyota factory technician training book http://www.saber.net/~monarch/booka.jpg it says: "The EGR system is used for reducing oxides of nitrogen and for engine knock control. By recirculating a controlled amount of exhaust gases into the intake air-fuel mixture, combustion temperature is lowered. This, in turn reduces the amount of NOx emission. Also, the exhaust gases help prevent engine knock and allow for more advanced ignition timing." Now ask yourself: have the authors of mkiv.com, gadgetonline.com and other engine mod promotion oriented websites read complicated technical factory manuals like this? If not, do they admit their ignorance? If not, does that mean they are really in an authoritative position to know the benefits and consequences of mods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 who are you still trying to argue with now monarch..................... Give it a rest for once and walk away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_lee84sc Posted April 13, 2005 Author Share Posted April 13, 2005 not to be petty and keep an argument going that is completely up to personal preferance, however modifying a car is just that personal preferance. anything you do to "Modify" a vehicle will have both positive and negative results. Yes the EGR system is more in depth than i once thought, however i removed the system, my car is not pinging or knocking, the temp seems to be fine, and the response gain....minimal but apparent. Im taking my chance on this mod just like others do with NA-T, or AFC's, if it works it works, if i notice problems associated with this than, fine i was way off, i made a mistake and ill reinstall the Egr system. So thankyou everyone for the insight of Pro's, Con's and how this thing works, i def learned from this topic things i never knew, so if anyone has done this mod to there NA or NA-T, lemme know what you think, Your 97 5spd dedicated Lexus owner, J_lee84sc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lextreme Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 I have my egr blocked and not problem with check engine light. I did it for the following reasons: Lower Intake Temperature therefore increase HP (2-5 hp estimated) * Reduce expensive Lexus Parts for repair * Increase Exhaust flow for Turbo Application * Cleaner look of your engine bay * Easier to change Injectors and other parts due to EGR delete. do a search in google and type "lexus egr delete kit" My egr pipe had a leak and my check engine came on for many years. Didnt find out until i got my engine replaced. I also bypass the TB radiator fluid too to decrease intake temp. Good luck david our cars are getting up there in age. These are mechanical components with hot gasses, fuel, oil and all sorts of weather on them. Just because the egr fails does not mean the previous owner did a bad job or the car is in bad shape. ← The people who own and run the the Supra Forums and MKIV.com can't tell durability potential of the EGR valve, catalytic converter etc. since none of those performance enthusiast oriented type folks keep their cars 100% stock using OEM replacement parts, etc. So when their EGR components or catalytic converter or other parts fail at 150,000 miles they just chalk the failures up to "old age" The actual durability potential of all that emission system hardware is really up in the 400,000 - 600,000 mile range http://www.saber.net/~monarch/454.jpg and Toyotas with 450,000+ miles have still passed tough California emission tests with all their factory original emission components http://www.saber.net/~monarch/smog92.jpg ← Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Back to the check engine light - trouble code 0401 (insufficient flow on EGR). I have 204000 miles on my 1996 SC300. The aforementioned trouble code came on around 188000 miles. Removed and cleaned out the EGR valve, put back on, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed filter from the EGR modulator, cleaned, put back in, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Bought and installed new EGR valve, reset codes, engine came back on. Bought and installed new EGR modulator, reset codes, engine light came back on. Cleaned out all EGR related lines/hoses, etc., reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV, ran tests as per Lexus repair manual, all passed, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV again since it was the only part not brand new. Noticed a small round metal plate at one end and figured that when I ran battery power to the VSV terminals (one of the VSV tests to check airflow) the small metal plate should have some type of movement from within the VSV, but it did not. After closely examining the VSV I saw where it could be taken apart. So I pried it open and found 1" long solid metal dowel followed by a spring, both covered with soot. Cleaned both parts and the inside of the VSV with throttle body cleaner and dried them off with compressed air. However, when I sprayed the inside of the VSV with the compressed air a third part pops out; another solid metal dowel about 3/8" long which evidently was stuck inside the VSV with soot. Cleaned that part with throttle body cleaner, too. Reassembled the VSV, ran the "battery power to the VSV terminals test" but this time I felt the metal dowels click back and forth when I applied and removed power. Checked the air flow through the VSV as per the Lexus repair manual and noticed increased air flow when there should be and no air flow when there should not be. Put the VSV back on, reattached the two hoses and the power plug, reset the codes, check engine light has not, I repeat, has not come back on. Hallelujah! I do not know if this will work for all 0401 trouble codes, but it worked for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lethal_Threat Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 So, assuming i wanted to block the EGR and put in a resistor to keep the computer from throwing a code with one of those available kits, what is involved. I know you remove the modules all together, cap off the vacuum lines, but can the pipes to the back of the heads be easily gotten to and removed? An in depth explanation on their removal for a 1UZ-FE would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Class SC Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 An EGR is the same Idea as u eating your own !Removed!... Would anything EVER want to consume it's own by product!? I think not... ....WOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodmax Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 My 2 cents. Had rough idle problem. Replaced Idle Control Valve. Better idle but still rough after driving a bit. clamped off EGR hose Bingo! Car is running perfect. ERG valve with labor $160. Not today. 92 SC 300 stock 156,555 miles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratatat Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 maybe it was just me, but i am still chuckling at Recirculating Exhaust Gas, and engine running cooler, being used in the same sentence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.Rad. Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Check this out: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110577/article.html ; http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110555/article.html and: http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110581/article.html This is a good explanation of what egr does and how it can be used to your benefit . But first it must be working correctly... Regards, M.R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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