Shadow

I will be dropping the transmission to replace the rear main seal and a couple other seals and is wondering if it is possible to also change the starter while the transmission is out? I am sure I can remove the starter bolts from the rear but can I remove the starter rearward?

My local locksmith kiosk sell and cut non-remote Lexus keys for $20.

I changed differential oil four times on two different LS and not once did I noticed any difference afterward (I was pleased) which meant the old oils were working fine all along.

The metal screen can be clean and reuse. Replace if you don't want to take up the chore.

I believe there is no replacement interval for pulleys and seals, aka, inspect and replace only when necessary. Perhaps you can leverage the price you paid for the service when negotiating with the service manager, if the price sound like it should includes installing the seals and pulleys, then raise hell with them. How much did you pay for the service?

That engine in 92LS is non-interference, and as far as turning the camshaft, you will have to overcome many valve springs when turning the shaft so what you feel is normal. Turn the camshaft all you want and it won't hurt anything. BTW, what is the mileage?

ECM not communicating? You can get the engine code yourself at no cost and see if the mechanic is lying. All you need is a paper clip and jump T1 to TE1 in the diagnostic port either in the engine compartment or under the dash near the steering column. Search this forum or elsewhere for more details info on obtaining ODBI codes.

My Supra's starter went out about 8 yrs ago @150k. I got a copper strip for $2 at a hardware store and whipped it into the "L" shape to replace the contacts (that was before I knew of any replacement contact kit), and 8 yrs and 100k later, the starter still works.

Perhaps posting the LS model years the instructions above are good for would greatly help. I take it that the instructions are for 93&93 LS only?

A bad power steering air bypass valve will allow PS fluid to enter the intake and burn giving out blue-ish smoke.

Get the engine code and go from there.

There is no friction surface on OEM LCU bushings so what is the point of lubricating them?

Yep, only the alternator needs to move aside which is a 5 min job for any mechanic. Sound like the shop wanted to milk the cow for an easy $150.

Yes, noise and vibration drive me nut. I have been trying to get my 91 as smooth and my wife's 90 and after two sets of tires, one set of wheel, and some renew suspension and mine is still not as smooth. The wife hardly notice the difference but I certainly can. And then there was a rattle noise right in front of me (the driver seat) that comes a goes. I removed the instrument panel and padded all wirings, joints, and mating surfaces the best I could and the still no joy. Fortunately, for my sanity the noise went away recently on its own, otherwise, a steering column tear down is on order. And then there are those Lexus forums which I won't say anything about...

When to replace? That depends on how much $$$ you want to spend, how long you're going to keep the car, and how anal you're. At $300 a pop I can see the hesitation.

Many things can cause vibrations during braking. Good rear carrier bushings "dampen" vibrations but torn carrier bushings amplify vibrations. Those bushings are exposed to tremendous stress and are the weakest link in the rear suspension. ADUS 505 is the part#. A shop across my work place stock ADUS bushings so if anyone want them, PM me and I'll get them for you.

The torque test measures how much force it takes to turn the ball in the joint. Obviously, a worn ball joint will be lose (low torque) and good ball joint will be tight. A good ball joint should not have any play and should not be smooth when moved (hint: tight).

Not the same! 91LS has some features not found in 90LS, but you'll get by most of the time.

Don't expect those Chinese parts to perform as well as OEM, but for $59, they might worth a try if one gets deperate.

RPM gauge gets its signal from the igniter #1. You can attach an external rpm gauge to the igniter #1 and compare the RPM readings. If they both read the same then it's the igniter which I highly doubt since the ignition coil get their signals from the igniters also. Bad igniter signal would translate to bad coil signals, thus, bad spark on the plugs. Alternatively, you can also compute the RPM by attaching a scope to igniter #1 and observe the duty cycle and compute the RPM and compare. I highly suspect the problem lies in your gauge, more specifically, the capacitors. Change those CAPS will do wonders to your instrument panels. The good part is CAPS are cheap and relatively easy to replace if you can solder.

Those prices gave me good laugh!

91LS: 2000RPM @ 60mph First try to see if the problem is in the sender or receiver (gauge). This won't be easy if you don't have proper equipment and technical info.

Salacak, The gauge signal for RPM is independent of speed signal so collect some graph points with RPM vs. speed in highest gear (>50mph) for comparisons to other 1st gen LS to see approximately how much your gauge is out of whack. Post your data I'll compare with my LS.

95LS and up are interference.

Idle @ 2500rpm? My LS cruise at 75mph+ at that rpm.