BadBob

Back to the check engine light - trouble code 0401 (insufficient flow on EGR). I have 204000 miles on my 1996 SC300. The aforementioned trouble code came on around 188000 miles. Removed and cleaned out the EGR valve, put back on, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed filter from the EGR modulator, cleaned, put back in, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Bought and installed new EGR valve, reset codes, engine came back on. Bought and installed new EGR modulator, reset codes, engine light came back on. Cleaned out all EGR related lines/hoses, etc., reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV, ran tests as per Lexus repair manual, all passed, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV again since it was the only part not brand new. Noticed a small round metal plate at one end and figured that when I ran battery power to the VSV terminals (one of the VSV tests to check airflow) the small metal plate should have some type of movement from within the VSV, but it did not. After closely examining the VSV I saw where it could be taken apart. So I pried it open and found 1" long solid metal dowel followed by a spring, both covered with soot. Cleaned both parts and the inside of the VSV with throttle body cleaner and dried them off with compressed air. However, when I sprayed the inside of the VSV with the compressed air a third part pops out; another solid metal dowel about 3/8" long which evidently was stuck inside the VSV with soot. Cleaned that part with throttle body cleaner, too. Reassembled the VSV, ran the "battery power to the VSV terminals test" but this time I felt the metal dowels click back and forth when I applied and removed power. Checked the air flow through the VSV as per the Lexus repair manual and noticed increased air flow when there should be and no air flow when there should not be. Put the VSV back on, reattached the two hoses and the power plug, reset the codes, check engine light has not, I repeat, has not come back on. Hallelujah! I do not know if this will work for all 0401 trouble codes, but it worked for mine.

I was going to say that I know I had to take the dat gum bumper cover off to get to my high beams, as you now know. So how did the other two fellas manage without taking the bumper cover off?.

Check engine light came on. Checked with my OBD scanner & one code PO401 appeared - egr valve. Bot & installed new egr valve, cleaned out little cotton filter in the egr vacuum modulator, replaced charcoal cannister. Ran great & no check engine light for about 8 days but then the check engine light - PO401 code egr valve reappeared. Any ideas?

Same thing after I replaced the rotors with after-market. Took off wheel to re-check everything & I noticed that the diameter of the lug holes on the rotors are larger than the lugs. Still do not know for sure but I wonder if this "play" could be what is causing the noise.

Contemplating converting SC300 from belt driven radiator fan to dual electric radiator fans. Would like some feedback as to pros & cons, recommendations, procedures, etc.

The tail-light will fit, however, Lexus has changed the way the tail-light looks maybe two or three times over the years. I have a 1996 SC300, bot a tailight on eBay off of a 1994 SC300 and it did not match. Prior to 1996 the lens are red & yellow, 1996 & maybe 1997 the lens are red & white/silver. 1998 & forward changed again.

I installed a system similar to what you are contemplating. My headlights dimmed everytime the subwoofer hit. A friend who installs car audio & visual for a living stated that eventually my alternator would fry along with other important electrical stuff. He recommended a capacitor to store the power needed when the subwoofer hits thus allowing the alternator to operate normally. I installed a 5.0 farad capacitor I bot on eBay for $60. Problem corrected.

How about black with the bezel back to the original stock color?

Go to the following URL for the best prices for Lexus OEM parts in the USA: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=214082

I have been running two aftermarket amps in my '96 SC300 for quite awhile w/o any problems. The harness connenting the stock amplifiers to the stock Pioneer radio/cd are located in the passenger side of the trunk between the CD player/amplfier and the fire wall behind the back seat ( must remove rear & side trunk liners). I located the speaker wires (five sets including the subwoofer), cut them, ran the radio side of the wires to the new amp(s) input and the speaker side of the wires to the new amp(s) output. I have a 4 channel 1600 watt amp pumping the factory speakers/tweeters plus 2 Bose 5x3's I installed in the side panels just below the rear passenger armrests. I also have a 400 watt mono amp pumping a 1200 watt 10" Sony Explode subwoofer installed where the factory sub was. I have since installed a remote volume control for my subwoofer by running RCA wires from the subwoofer amp to the remote volume control nob I installed on the shift plate in front of the stickshift & back to the subwoofer. Go to the following for a zipfile containing wiring diagrams & other pertinent info: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&id=6282

Check :http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120173863582&rd=1

Next to the actual switch to turn on your headlights is the fog light switch (Just inside the headlight switch toward the steering column - twist/turn forward.

I have had a similar problem. All the sensors checked out. I read that a valve in the tranny may be stuck. I drained the tranny, cleaned the screen, refilled with Seafoam tranny flush & A/T fluid, shifted thru all gears at an idle, ran the car for 5 miles. Repeated the above. Drained the tranny, cleaned the screen & filled with A/T fluid. Problem corrected.

To remove the shift knob do this: 1) Set parking brake 2) Insert the key into the ignition and turn to on but do not start 3) step on brake and move shifter to a straight-up position (neutral or drive) 4) push the plastic cover below the shift knob down until the two screws holding the shift knob are exposed 5) remove the two screws with a phillips screwdriver 6) pull up on the shift knob to remove. Sorry, no pix.