BadBob

Back to the check engine light - trouble code 0401 (insufficient flow on EGR). I have 204000 miles on my 1996 SC300. The aforementioned trouble code came on around 188000 miles. Removed and cleaned out the EGR valve, put back on, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed filter from the EGR modulator, cleaned, put back in, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Bought and installed new EGR valve, reset codes, engine came back on. Bought and installed new EGR modulator, reset codes, engine light came back on. Cleaned out all EGR related lines/hoses, etc., reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV, ran tests as per Lexus repair manual, all passed, reset codes, check engine light came back on. Removed VSV again since it was the only part not brand new. Noticed a small round metal plate at one end and figured that when I ran battery power to the VSV terminals (one of the VSV tests to check airflow) the small metal plate should have some type of movement from within the VSV, but it did not. After closely examining the VSV I saw where it could be taken apart. So I pried it open and found 1" long solid metal dowel followed by a spring, both covered with soot. Cleaned both parts and the inside of the VSV with throttle body cleaner and dried them off with compressed air. However, when I sprayed the inside of the VSV with the compressed air a third part pops out; another solid metal dowel about 3/8" long which evidently was stuck inside the VSV with soot. Cleaned that part with throttle body cleaner, too. Reassembled the VSV, ran the "battery power to the VSV terminals test" but this time I felt the metal dowels click back and forth when I applied and removed power. Checked the air flow through the VSV as per the Lexus repair manual and noticed increased air flow when there should be and no air flow when there should not be. Put the VSV back on, reattached the two hoses and the power plug, reset the codes, check engine light has not, I repeat, has not come back on. Hallelujah! I do not know if this will work for all 0401 trouble codes, but it worked for mine.

I was going to say that I know I had to take the dat gum bumper cover off to get to my high beams, as you now know. So how did the other two fellas manage without taking the bumper cover off?.

Check engine light came on. Checked with my OBD scanner & one code PO401 appeared - egr valve. Bot & installed new egr valve, cleaned out little cotton filter in the egr vacuum modulator, replaced charcoal cannister. Ran great & no check engine light for about 8 days but then the check engine light - PO401 code egr valve reappeared. Any ideas?

Same thing after I replaced the rotors with after-market. Took off wheel to re-check everything & I noticed that the diameter of the lug holes on the rotors are larger than the lugs. Still do not know for sure but I wonder if this "play" could be what is causing the noise.

Contemplating converting SC300 from belt driven radiator fan to dual electric radiator fans. Would like some feedback as to pros & cons, recommendations, procedures, etc.

The tail-light will fit, however, Lexus has changed the way the tail-light looks maybe two or three times over the years. I have a 1996 SC300, bot a tailight on eBay off of a 1994 SC300 and it did not match. Prior to 1996 the lens are red & yellow, 1996 & maybe 1997 the lens are red & white/silver. 1998 & forward changed again.

I installed a system similar to what you are contemplating. My headlights dimmed everytime the subwoofer hit. A friend who installs car audio & visual for a living stated that eventually my alternator would fry along with other important electrical stuff. He recommended a capacitor to store the power needed when the subwoofer hits thus allowing the alternator to operate normally. I installed a 5.0 farad capacitor I bot on eBay for $60. Problem corrected.

How about black with the bezel back to the original stock color?

Go to the following URL for the best prices for Lexus OEM parts in the USA: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=214082

I have been running two aftermarket amps in my '96 SC300 for quite awhile w/o any problems. The harness connenting the stock amplifiers to the stock Pioneer radio/cd are located in the passenger side of the trunk between the CD player/amplfier and the fire wall behind the back seat ( must remove rear & side trunk liners). I located the speaker wires (five sets including the subwoofer), cut them, ran the radio side of the wires to the new amp(s) input and the speaker side of the wires to the new amp(s) output. I have a 4 channel 1600 watt amp pumping the factory speakers/tweeters plus 2 Bose 5x3's I installed in the side panels just below the rear passenger armrests. I also have a 400 watt mono amp pumping a 1200 watt 10" Sony Explode subwoofer installed where the factory sub was. I have since installed a remote volume control for my subwoofer by running RCA wires from the subwoofer amp to the remote volume control nob I installed on the shift plate in front of the stickshift & back to the subwoofer. Go to the following for a zipfile containing wiring diagrams & other pertinent info: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ost&id=6282

Check :http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120173863582&rd=1

Next to the actual switch to turn on your headlights is the fog light switch (Just inside the headlight switch toward the steering column - twist/turn forward.

I have had a similar problem. All the sensors checked out. I read that a valve in the tranny may be stuck. I drained the tranny, cleaned the screen, refilled with Seafoam tranny flush & A/T fluid, shifted thru all gears at an idle, ran the car for 5 miles. Repeated the above. Drained the tranny, cleaned the screen & filled with A/T fluid. Problem corrected.

To remove the shift knob do this: 1) Set parking brake 2) Insert the key into the ignition and turn to on but do not start 3) step on brake and move shifter to a straight-up position (neutral or drive) 4) push the plastic cover below the shift knob down until the two screws holding the shift knob are exposed 5) remove the two screws with a phillips screwdriver 6) pull up on the shift knob to remove. Sorry, no pix.

I have owned a '96 SC300 for one year. It has 173,000 miles on it. I have had my share of things breaking, wearing out, etc. but I purchased a repair CD on Ebay & do my own repairs - luckily so far nothing major. Ebay is a good source for parts but be careful & shop around because there are some idiots on Ebay that will gouge you on prices. I buy new OEM parts from Lexus of Pembroke Pines online parts catalog. This dealership has some new parts costing less than used parts on Ebay. Whenever I am in need of a part I first check their prices as a starting point & then I will go to Ebay to compare. The Lexus dealership here in San Antonio is a major ripoff with prices on parts & repairs costing double to triple of what a dealership in Houston or Dallas would charge. Believe me, I have done alot of research, but no other dealership can beat the Pembroke Pines Lexus dealership for the best prices for new parts.. I drove a 1991 Acura Legend for a couple years which was pretty cool, my daughter drives a 1999 Infiniti G20 which has been a pretty reliable car and my son drives a 1997 Acura CL 3.0 which has also been a fine car. However, in a nutshell, my SC300, which has been/is a very reliable, smooth running machine, is the hands down the best of the best. If and when I decide to trade it, it will be for a newer model of SC300 or SC400.

For some odd reason the attachment will not upload. Post your e-mail address & I will send the zipfile directly to your e-mail address. I apologize for inconvenience.

Attached you will find a zip file containing the wiring diagrams & wiring locations for your SC. The easiest way to get to the wires for testing may be thru the trunk. Open your trunk & remove the main panel between the backrest & the trunk (you will also see the fuel tank). You will see the main wire harness running along the right side of the trunk to the cd changer & the power amp. When you remove the black wire harness cover you will see all the wires. Match up the color coded wires with the diagrams to determine which are the front right speaker wires. You may want to tap into the pertinent wires at this point with test wires & run them outside of the vehicle directly to the speakers in question (front right) to determine if indeed the speakers or the wiring is at fault. Hopefully this info will help get you started in finding the problem.

I saw a device on ebay for $ 9.99 plus $10.00 shipping that was quaranteed to increase the performance, HP, MPG, etc. My thoughts were "Ya Right", but then for just $20.00 I thought "what the heck, if it does not work, I am only out the $20.00". The device is a cylinderical shaped piece of metal about 3 inches in diameter, 2 inches deep with fins bent diagonally toward the middle of the cylinder. This device is installed in the plastic tube between the aircleaner & the trottle body. What the device is supposed to do is create a vortex with the air coming from the aircleaner thus allowing a larger volume of air to enter the throttle body faster. Upon arrival I installed the device in about ten minutes & took off for a test drive. I could not believe it. The datgum thing really works. More power, faster acceleration, smoother ride & after a week I noticed about 25 more miles per tank of gas. Still not the fastest out there but my car (1996 SC300) is a bit more fun to drive.

Same thing happened to me - the break and all. I took the bottom broken piece of the rod - now in the shape of a "U", drilled a small hole at the base of the "U", turned it upside down, drilled a small hole at the base of the top part of the rod just above the break point & screwed the two pieces together with a small sheet metal screw (kind of looked like a tuning fork). I then re-inserted the upside "U" part of the rod back into the locking mechanism in its original place (small hole with a spring loaded bar against the edge of the door) & clipped the top part of the rod back onto its place on the door handle. It has been over six months and it has worked like a charm (knock on wood).

cashSC300pit, This is probably the problem, click on links below. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=286959 http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200819 You will also have to take the lower portion of the interior door panel off, click on link below. http://clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109384

Type BadBob in the "search" box at the bottom of the forum page. You will find a topic related to amp wiring. Scroll down to the 2nd to the last post and you will find some dialogue along with a couple of zipped attachments that contain the wiring diagrams that you are looking for. With reference to the dialogue, I have since ran the power to my aftermarket amps directly from the battery rather than tapping into wires as originally stated. As for your OEM amp shorting out, could be water leaking into the trunk. My '96 SC300 had the same problem. Good luck.

Do you stillhave those trunk struts? Bot mine on eBay for $ 38.00 plus $ 6.95 to ship. Just checked & they are still available. Type "lexus sc300 trunk shocks" using search engine.

Same thing happened to me - the break and all. I took the bottom broken piece of the rod - now in the shape of a "U", drilled a small hole at the base of the "U", turned it upside down, drilled a small hole at the base of the top part of the rod just above the break point & screwed the two pieces together with a small sheet metal screw (kind of looked like a tuning fork). I then re-inserted the upside "U" part of the rod back into the locking mechanism in its original place (small hole with a spring loaded bar against the edge of the door) & clipped the top part of the rod back onto its place on the door handle. It has been over six months and it has worked like a charm (knock on wood).