mburnickas

Best help I can give. Go to autopia.org and enjoy the readings!

Yup and it is tight..I use a cut 10mm wrench and a 10mm box end.. I was not being mad but I can't stand the other Lexus site. I still go out there and raz them up. Should take about 30 minutes to drain tranny and diff. Install new seal/filter and plug..Easy job and you will save a lot. Oh, if you just drained you can drain the diff and it will jut lose whatever is in there. But by this time it as mixed the fluids..

I would say the '01 FSM, since it's more current to the type of A/C units that's used in an '03 ES300. Even better would be a manual for an '02 ES300, since this was the first year of the new generation ES's that went from '02 thru '06. I didn't see the manual for an 02' any Ideas where I can look? The A/C light is blinking, freon is fully charged. no compressor cycling at all. I downloaded mine along time ago..I also do not see them. Is belt slipping?

Problem is they are flat-out wrong. How do I know, I own a 98 (same ATF) and I have the FSM (looking at now)...Did you go to that other Lexus club, club-clueless.... Check out section AX–21 #19 on the FSM.

Nice! The kicker is people see it and want to buy it. They always ask if I restored it, nope..The new corn fuel is crap. People in TX make major issues in bike with it. If they increase %, look out o-rings etc.

The diff USES the same fluid as the ATF. Filled via the fill tube but not drained together.

I remember you now, you are the guy with a 50K this and that, a 3 digit IQ etc. I am sure someone of your nature could figure out this all by yourself. Plus you are 60 years old and asking now?..You did not find these answers in your quest of life? Maybe because I do not use Ghetto-Mart drying towels of my car. I shop at detailing places online since it is night and day (aka that is quality). I do not have many issues at all since I drink good water! LOL.... No problems here. In fact, do you see me asking any questions here? ...DC, riding along with the 10% off folks ha? LOL

I use Acid on wheels when the dust is baked onto the rims (like BMV, MB etc) it is a huge time saver and never had an issue. And mine get it in the spring and fall and between if needed. But ya, use ONR and 95% of the time the dust will melt off with it (and wax helps)...

Guess you do not detail many cars. Point is, some cars are rock hard and some are very soft. With VOC's that is what you get. For me, I do not have issues washing nor drying (on any model car etc).

I have not used "saop" in over 1.5 years..Only ONR..

ethanol is murder on a fuel system. All states have it vs the MTBE fuel at least up Noth...Based on that, I would NEVER use this fuel without adds.

Clean the rims, apply any wax since all are okay at best and then clean with ONR...I use Acid cleaners 4 times a year and ONR the others....But the wax is the HINT HINT part.

problem is these types of "drives" kill oil and exhaust. Cheaper to get a $30 battery tender

Rat is correct. The ECU will still store DTC and think something is up. Since it goes by resistance, you could "rig" it up so the ECU thinks it is there. 28 mpg us highway right.

Welcome to LOC.....do you have any maintenance history on the car? IE: when was the last major tune up, tranny flush etc? What is your current mileage? I agree here. Intake cleaning help, plugs, nice fuel adds etc. Check easy first.

Some cars drain battery sooner then others. With all the elc on cars today, it is nothing new. I had a problem with my ES and what I did was load test and then mulit-meter test every day and see what is going on. Could be a bad battery or something is eating your battery (alarm, clock, ECU etc).. Welcome to LOC..where the fun never stops! LOL

Samething happened on my GSXR bike, using FP+ all gone. YMMV

In comparison with my 00 I'd say it isnt. I run 87 all the time and notice no pinging or other problems. I feel for those filling up with 91/93 these days. ...but why the 91/93? I do not feel for them. Using 87 and FP+ will get more BTU' per gallon. YMMV

Seafoam wise, that is the theory but it would just thin the oil if it does not evap before hand. For me, seafoam is not worth the price for what you get. Over-rated.

This member, Randy&Bonnie, is a clown (aka-troll)..I agree with you 100%. They guy has no clue and I have a feeling whom he is...

weird..maybe "re-learn" your driving but tailered to you...ummm

The guy (Randy&Bonnie) is a troll. Forget him...I thickness meter would help but as noted before try a vinegar bath (50/50). Then maybe a compound (good one). That with a rotary would help bigtime. If that does not work with the proper pad, I have no idea. Based on that, I own a home in Houston (Katy- Cinco Ranch) and it is murder on paint. Between the rain and love bugs it kills the paint. Nevermind the trucks on I-10 which kill windshields and paint...BIGTIME! People whine about little things up north and down here, WAY different.

Ghetto-mart

why not just change the fluid to something people like on here?

with "corn" in the fuel, this is nothing new.