mburnickas

Just FYI, if you want broad/general/text book drains, you nailed it 100%. But on the flip side, weight in many manuals is very general rule. I stated my reasons about manuals and I would not state miles since you do not have a baseline nor if some clown does zero on car, a real synthetic (not gp3) will be beaten up after 10K miles. Plus I have seen dino go over 10K miles and be fine (doing it now in another auto easy on oil). I am using 0w-20 in a 5w-30 spec car (mine) since 5w-30 is going bye bye. Wear etc are inline with 5w-30 after 2 intervals over 9 to 11K each. Plus more mpg. Using a synthetic, whatever that means, does not mean your engine will be 99% clean. I have seen that in several cars in "worthless" UOA's as some would say here. But I talk to tribologists at a few oil testings houses weekly (along with Cat/Allison etc) and they never have stated your info on dino/snthetic leaks. They all state something very different and I will forward your post to them for info. I agree I have better things to worry about that is a reason why I like UOA’s. I see the real data and not using a boilerplate drain. But this is not the real reason why I like them (noted prior on this forum). But you are incorrect about me "probably spending too much". I spend about $40 for oil and an EaO filter for (1) year. It comes down to time savings and what I get for UOA. That is priceless. If you are happy with manual drains, you are golden! No worries. Also since we are all off topic, can we go back or keep going?

Would a UPA (Used Paint Analysis) be any help here? Just curious. B) If that makes you happy but I will take a thk meter.

All that, I just look for any scrathes. But this is from a person whom drinks clear/clean water. :D :cheers: Go to some detailing sites and get some better towels.

acid bath first, then buff out?, compound out?????

Um, the MF towels at Getto-mart are not the best here...

I can but when you still think Amsoil is an additive, so you ant gonna get it. Must be old age or bad water coming into play or both.... :D

How can I compete with a person who still thinks "Amsoil is an additive" or "I have 5 years of college, I majored in Physical Science, and I have a 3-digit IQ". But you still think Amsoil is an additive..That is the best buddy! I do not even work for them nor a dealer but the 3-digit IQ and drinking Az water over 60 years. So that puts you over 60+ and I can't complete with these stats.... But "automotive engineers on the entire planet". Really is this before or after the sludge issue, cracked frame issues...

Noted prior, "In fact go to yahoo and type in UOA oil and you get what it defines in about 1.1 seconds". Still stand as before..Fact is 99.99% of this forum (and most) lack on the UOA's and supporting data. People still drain before even a "manual for..." says so.. Most will spend $4 per g for gas, $5 per g for milk, $40+K for a car and will not spend approx $20 on a UOA. That to me is amazing but with warning labels on lawn mowers, nevermind. LOL I still have people posting here that will not even tell me why would you test your oil...Still waiting for that. Your post is not a wase-a$$$ and I like to the point posts. I have read them all bigtime. I do not care or want more people to know about 30+ year old processes and standards. Make me look better. :whistles: :whistles:

I never said UOA was integral ANY Amosil product; noted prior. Also why would Amsoil even come up with UOA. Amsoil does not own some company private dataon UOA's or anything. Also you are "familiar" with oil analysis but do not know what "U" is for….oil analysis is either new "N" Or used "U" there is not inbetween. Amsoil has a link since OAI INC since it is a company name, that is all. Think out it, why would Amsoil post a link to a company [they own] for customers to send samples to only to test new oil? Umm, no much sense there. Seems like you have issues with a product you need to work on.. Also why is test size and issue?

It is important to do an oil analysis on new oil also. That gives you a relationship (visual etc), non-linear on the oil being used. You do not need this but it would help in some areas of understanding fluids utilized/applications. I give "snide" replies if you want to call it that, since I have been on this forum long enough and not going to educate folks (been there done that; do a search since these are old Q&A). Not my job and frankly, with the invention of the internet you can learn it faster stepping up-to-the-plate on their end. In fact go to yahoo and type in UOA oil and you get what it defines in about 1.1 seconds. What I find is, well do a search since I have posted it time and time again. To summarize most here will not be doing due to price, understanding or play the "time" game. I just got another one (UOA) back but do not bother posting them. Look on what the outcome of it is. As noted before, when some resort to pushing the "degree", some fancy dollar amount etc, it is all over and not on track. I am being nice here too just giving short direct answers. Next, I give answers since so far I have people saying smell-a-vision and color are pretty fair detectors. Define "fair" since I do not know what that means and for the record I have tested black "smelling like crap" fluid and tested fine (not great/new but had life left). Same with engine oils, hyd fluids and gears. Using these are not wrong, if you have endless $$, time and you are one step above guessing; have at it I say with this non-scientific processes. At least use a blotter test (free people, notice free) since it seems UOA price is one factor I try and stay out of most fluids posts on forums but when people post comments like "an oil additive like Amsoil" what the heck are people posting this flat-out wrong info. I do not even bother with people saying the manual items are needed for warranty.

Well then, there you go. You know all on the subject even with your "probably " comments or "cost/performance ratio " without data to support etc. Amazing people post without knowing all the facts. One thing I learned on forums is when people push the college and work deal instead of data at hand, it is all over here. The IQ is a new, um "high too. But you are correct, I doubt your participation would help since it is not related to subject at hand. Please posts UOA on your engine since 99.9% of this forums lacks in this area but their posts show otherwise. YMMV And you were the guy that posted "an oil additive like Amsoil " and you have what now?. They never made "additives" back then for oil nor ever have! That is the best post of the year so far! LMFAO..

I use ww towels only....... http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-pro...ow-shamsux.html

Problem is the average driver does not know what UOA means or the very reason why you pull them. Heck, the average person does not have a clue. On that note, why would someone pull a UOA and that my friend will be if you know or not. You can say it in (2) words. But based on your posts I am starting to wonder if you understand this process. I say no since microns in wear is not integral to UOA #'s. I will say this, please show me a baseline on your engines and maybe, just maybe we can talk more. Were not you the guy who stated "probably""and weak then does not show data prior to this? I have had run cars over 300K miles on dino oil and ran fine. But what you do not know is the wear#'s, the price on the wallet, leaks, oil issues, time it took etc. The reason why I run it is to save time and still provide better protection then using other oils (based on my past years of doing UOA's). My complete post is not even about any product. It was using a smell test not a guarantee of anything. Also the same people came to my door in Texas and I already installed a water filter. The water downsouth sucks my friend. You are drinking it? Wow, water is crap and do a test and see what you are drinking. The stuff in it is crap (based on other states I have lived) and I do not want my family drinking it. But if you like it, you go girl! I am not selling you a product but either put up your own data or your out of your league. I could careless on what oil people use but when people posts incorrect data…. Plus I am not a dealer of any product and your questions are nothing new. Same issue back in the 80's but people still think or see what they want too.

It was engine oil and I think even then, Amsoil's warranty was like nailing jello to the wall. I know Amsoil is not for everyone but if you follow what they give, you will never have issues (even in a sludge engine; oil wise). LOL UOA aside, when I removed my valve cover 40K miles ago and how good it looked (doing 10K+ drains) that sold me. Nevermind almost 13K drains on a diesel. Just for the record (for all) and I not here to beat anything down anyones throat. Just been there and done that. I left Amsoil for various reasons and #1 was most dealers have no clue on what they sell. When I see dealers saying flat-out sure, you can go 25K miles on the oil <I shake head>. Nevermind most dealer do not even know what TBN they have ZDDC, etc...

I need some tires since my proxies only last about 50K on the ES. Have to get the MXV4 next month.

I have heard of (1) years ago and Amsoil did make good on it.

I strongly support some of their products (notice some here) since I have done enough UOA to know it works. Plus I think I am the only one on this very forum that has posted on this subject this indepth. Not being rude just stating a fact. There are nice people here that have there "guru area" in all kinds of areas. Mine is this. In fact I just got another UOA back a whopping $17,that is Used Oil Analysis for people whom are have no clue on it. I think Redline and LE are very good but there short drains, okay UOA do not support there usage in my cars. Plus LE is overpriced dino oil and I have tried way to many oils in my engines. Most like Mobil but I dislike for past reasons. Not even UOA related there CS is worst ever. I also tried many on here beloved Seaform, BG products, chemtool Amsoil PF and some others (even distilled water) for intake cleaning. Try all above, please and tell me what works (based on cleaning power). I know what I see on several cars. Not gonna be the seafoam either. I used to think seabomb was great until I tried another product that works 100X better. Next is I said "more good stuff" since if someone does not know what UOA is, well figure the rest out or use the search function on this forum. To close, I was a dealer years ago (long before this very forum) and left for various reasons and that is fine. But since you posted "I am very familiar with oil analysis" then you know what I mean when I say ""more good stuff" and you are "getting more". This is clear to whom is familiar in this subject. So please do not accuse me of something.

Sure it is burnt but does that mean, 100% fluid is not doing its job???? Not starting a debate but fluid validity is not 100% based on smell-a-vision. Now your nose knows the XOD/NOX %, TBN levels (in ppm), Ca levels (in ppm), phos levels (in ppm) and so on? Unless you show some UOA's about burnt fluid, you cannot guarantee anything on this. That is about as useless as going my color..

Boy, some posts here are getting more and more comical. How can you be "very familiar with oil analysis " but do not know what the "U' is for? They are intergral to eachother.....The term UOA is about 30+ years old and has zero, that is ZERO to do with any product type in question. <shacking head> Case in point, I never said any product was the best here. OEM fluid is overpriced for what you get; just like most OEM fluids.

UAO is not what you stated and I do not know what "pretty fair detectors" means. Just because a color is black and smells something does not mean anything. You are guessing since you are not a spectro analysis machine... Spend the $20 and SEE (no nose test here folks) what you are dealing with in you AT.

noted prior "sensor issues and high Si". 99.8% of people will not see anything. It happens over time and the high Si most will not see since they do not pay for UOA's. So, I tell anyone who uses them, use with caution.

I disagree bigtime since you are fishing here. You say "probably a good product, but it's value is over-rated. It's cost/performance ratio is weak." You are guessing and then you define it is "over-rated"...compared to what? Then you state "an oil additive like Amsoil.."Um, do you know what Amsoil is????? As I stated many times before, manuals most time have zero to even do with designs in mind. All the end users needs to know is if the fluids passes the proper ASTM, SAE or fluid type needed. But I know nothing on oils..LOL

UOA? What is that? Again, care to define "more good stuff"? This is a pretty ambiguous statement. If you are asking what UOA means and then what me to define other areas. In your shoes, keeping using toyo fluid...Ambiguous is not the case since I know the diff between the too fluids

no going into it (have 1000 times before) but if people did UOA on the two, it is clear which has more good stuff. Same goes for color. Even a blotter test has more validity then color..

oil glazzed in car and one in truck..No way in my autos...No knocking anyone but if you test oil, you will see this issue come up.