mburnickas

Did you check the volts on the battery? Did you check the volts with car running and then again with everything elec on? Your battery could be working but not 100% too. Not being a pain, but take the 5 minutes and check it with a volt meter.

I would put instructions need for XX car, XXX year. No clue on what you need.

just wondering here, I would double check the battery.

The recommended pressure should be on a plate or sticker inside one of the doors or inside the glove box. That 55PSI Max, is just what it says. It's the maximum pressure you can safely put in the tire, but should only be used for carrying the maximum load for an extended time, at highway speeds. It's the pressure at which the max load printed on the tire is determined. For most cars and most tires today, 34 PSI is a good general rule. ← I agree but, as I have stated in the past, how does the sticker know what size tires you are running? The sticker is for stock tire sizes. What if you put vet tires on or bling bling ones with low profiles?????

I agree. If someone cruches a filter housing I blame the installer. Nothing is 100% dummy proof.

use gun scrubber

BINGO. they are easy! :)

easy I would more then likely buy a CPO before new.

The back are very easy too. Just go in from the sides (back of intake). You might need to move a hose or two but it is very easy.

Toysrme- I finally opened a 24 hour acct at the tech toyota website. Very nice info. Downloaded over 300 pdf from anything to everything I could. It was $10 WELL spent, thanks to you I also know that alldata is have a "sale" on there website. It was like $24 for 1 year. now it is $29.99 for 5 years for like the next 2 weeks. Good deal. Just wanted to say thanks for the heads up on the toyota tech place. :D :D

Sk is right but my take is this: I spin on BY hand till it [seal] contacts the bearing surface; then I keeping turning (tighter) the filter two more complete times. You do not want it loose to drip but you do want proper contact. But on the other hand you do not need to kill it either.

spark plugs? Front 3 are easy, rear just go from the sides/back of the intake

the problem with the codes is that just because you get a PXXXX code that does not mean that is the problem. Based on a 98, the 02 sensors could be going or get pretty old. Most only last around 100K. I would do a simple test (as noted before on this forum) and see what you get. Might be good, weak or bad. Again a simple volt and ohms meter is your friend. Or the sensor could have gone bad from spark plugs too. I only hope they are not original. This area you do not need to use OEM since OEM is only NGK. Plus either plugs you get NGK or Denso will only last about 60K and that is it. If there are orginal. Spend like $60 and replace the wires and plugs. Takes about 30 minutes and is very easy. Based on the same year as mine; you have the world famous sludge engine and the famous EGR, thorttle body Ivac carbon issue. This items will have major crap on them since it was a poor design. This topic has been posted before so do a search. I would clean these areas and it will take about 1-hour and about $3.00 in cleaner. I say (1) hour since I was very careful when I did mine and it was bad. Again as monarch stated I would agree but only only the fact that you need a minor tuneup. BUT more then half of the issue is not your, but of poor design. Normal EGR, carboned, throttle bodys are NOT normal on these low milage cars or these years. Nor is it nomal for these cars to have EGR's replaced like mad. Or there intakes look like tar since the re emmison sys is a little behind the curve of longevity. You have the years that need some help.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D Well, I only hope it is a Toyota approved product or the effectively and durability is not like theirs [Toyota]..

For me or the other guy? Well it is very easy to understand.. 1) If me, using OEM means nothing nor does it mean it is better etc. 2) Showing me a slip from a 4-banger engine (from 1992) from inspections also means nothing. 3) the cheaper ones last short in time length but look at the price delta 4) Waited for data (real) that supports monarch post that OEM is better then other non-OEM 5) Then again people get lucky (aka ....find a nut at times) 6) My Toyota sludge years do not last that long in EGR etc (proven fact; do a search on this forum for this common issue) 7) Not all Toyota product are like his. So his is not how they all are; all car makers have issues. 8) Since I have been driving every car sensor (02) has not been touched for 100K. And these are with non Toyota sensors...WHOA! This debate from Monarch is about as good as his you need to you all OEM fluids, Toyota engineers are the best in the galaxy and the world famous pictures of everything and anything (from used oil housings to bricks). Can you understand this one better

I'm just stating the factory repair manual's procedure to check them! ;) ← I agree but OHMS changes with heat etc. I would rather see what the sensor is really seeing. Mine at like 0.415 volts and then move after about 10 seconds starting. They go up to 0.700 volts.But the normal is around 0.55 to 0.600. At least this is what my snap-on scanner states. Then again changing a 02 sensor in the complete sys can do nothing too. If they are going bad you need to find out why they are. This is what I did a few months ago: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...topic=23289&hl=

Even a squirrel can find a nut. Too bad all your wonderful Toyota’s (most times with newer models then a 1992 4 cy) will not even hold up to that duration. Never mind an upcoming 14-year old auto. Too bad my Lexus (CPO) does not hold up like these (at least for the sludge years with EGR issues). You know the years your beloved Toyota Enginneers screwed up! I do not buy walker, only Bosh for 02 and they last 2 to 3 times longer that what you posted on. Why do you post on the sensor that is the least??? Is that the norm? Then again I am still waiting on data to support your “effective and durable”. Compared to what. Show me a trade study. Yup, 1/3 the life as you posted; but they are like 1/3 the price too. Plus I have never EVER replaced an 02 sensor before 100K no matter the manufacture. That has been since I have been driving too! Again, you have yet to provide any real data from tests; OEM vs non OEM. And I have to take your word on this forum for every stating that you replaced this and that. I had a Toyota before my Lexus and again it was not that great of a car by any means. I would show you the repair slips but for what? You think Toyota is great when it was worse them my last American car. Again all manufacures have issues; it is part of human design. They will never EVER get it perfect,they can't. To close, you are trying to compare a 14 year old truck with a 4-banger to boot in the LS section??? Hell my bike with no smog crap can do that. I find nothing even factual from another famous monarch picture.

There should be 11-16 ohms of resistance between the two terminals on the o2 sensor harness. ;) Chances are that they're ok if the cel is off! ← I would rather go by volts at start up and how fast it goes. Ohms chekcing for me, is good for diesel glow plugs.

I would just put some bling bling over it and call it a day! :P I would never do something that dumb!!!!!! :D :D :D :D :D kidding! I, umm a friend, only backed up in a garage with my door open; hit the side and it opened the opposite way...Pretty cool if you ask me.

Quite large difference in prices ,whats up with that? ← no clue. My local dealer was xxxx and a dealer out East was much lower (as I posted) above. I will say this, "because they can, that is why".

Do you actually know about things you post on???? So now if you buy oem you are 100% guaranteed you will get the correct part??? I think not. Also, most times the parts number on the car does not match newer OEM sensor. Nor is the new part the same as the old. If they “up-reved” the part, something changed. It is not the same. Sound like I am talking to a sales guy here. Just like Lexus reccomends this and that to make them $$$$. I have used non EOM sensors/parts for years and never had an issues. My wifes old car has over 180K miles on it (friend bought it) and it is on non OEM sensor 1. In fact I had to install slotted and drilled rotors on my car since the OEM parts are a joke. Just some FYI that not all OEM = wonderful product. But..... All people have to do is take 5 minutes and check the sensors. Not to hard. Mine are doing just fine; and, I test before I buy. Cheaper too. Please show me ( test data etc) where OEM is better in vibration, thermal, electrical, structural, longevity them non OEM? Why is it I always find you posting website data then your own.

I hope the tools are only OEM here! :D :D :D :D

Well if the build quality of a factory original Panasonic or genuine Toyota TrueStart replacement battery is superior to comparable auto parts store batteries then it's likely to be more reliable and durable.I have not sat down and examined the build quality of a factory original Panasonic or genuine Toyota TrueStart battery vs. auto parts store batteries. However, it is an undisputable fact that Toyota vehicles in general are substantially more reliable and durable than any American car. Therefore there must be substantial differences in build quality of the parts, filters and fluids that make up a Toyota. ← you stated "Well if the build quality of a factory original Panasonic or genuine Toyota TrueStart replacement battery is superior to comparable auto parts store batteries then it's likely to be more reliable and durable." Then you stated "I have not sat down and examined the build quality of a factory original Panasonic or genuine Toyota TrueStart battery vs. auto parts store batteries." How can you state this fact when you are guessing???? Then, because someone builds good cars will few/little items, that coralates to a good battery??? I did not know a good brake fluid ment a great car...LOL Then again Toyota did not even make the battery.. So my last truck had great windshield wipers and breaks brakes, I guess now it means the complete diesel truck was good. Toysrme hit it on the head. What do you think Lexus charges an arm and a leg for there oil (aka dino mobil); hence it is a scam or profit. Why sell oil at normal prices when they (Lexus) can make there own special bottle (for $0.050) and charge (4x more). Then again my mustang 5.0 floor mats where great........

I agree. This is TOOOO FUNNY!!!! :P :D :) I did not that Toyota Engineer want-a-bee's place bricks on there a cut open oil filter (with used oil all over) to say, we have a good design boys and that means a good battery too! Please make it stop. This thread should be called, "someone is getting owned BIGTIME". And I thought Wal-!Removed! was great for a laugh!

hmmm.. :chairshot: If you think 2-years is "the best guarantee available in the battery business" that is just great. I will take again my Red-Top Optima, it is 3 years free replacement. Plus I would not take Consumer Reports as the gospel here either. I have seen reports say something is great and I tried it and it sucks. Seen the same thing by them, they state something is poor and works better then ever.