mburnickas

Personally I dont use any brushes I use a mit. I am leaning towards the 7424 I think I could handle this since you dont have to move a orbit polisher around as much as a spinning polisher. I am glad to hear some of your input as it helps alot. thanks PS, STEVE AND JON ,I need yours input on a question in the detailed section "what to do first" THANKS ! I have not washed any car since 1994. Only use Dri-wash. Plus I dislike PC machines. Like the professional, I use what they use. Not saying PC is bad, but I like what they do.

Call me dumb here but I just went over to the other "lower class" Lexus forum and low and behold you asked the same thing???? I would say pick a forum and call it a day. Based on the site owner over there, you are better off over here!

holly $%&$!!! Looks like a bling bling got hit and needed a complete left side of the car....for free! Why not use some gas and a match and call it a day! not that I would tell anyone to do that.

I agree but what if his insurance deductible is $1,000 and the lights are only like $1,500. What about his rate hike in the end?

Based on the dealer book, not NADA (yellow or blue). Price is for NY with 21,000 miles for your 2001 ES300. Retail: Extra Clean: $21,200 Clean:$20,600 Avg:$18,225 Trade Clean: $17,600 Avg: $15,815 If you wanted a loan: Value by bank is $16,125

I would start running a gas add in your car. I used Amsoil PI for a long time. Now switch to FP60....FP60 is cheaper and does more.

I assume I need to remove the air chamber on the top, some hoses etc?

Toysrme- Question, How hard is it to replace the RVCG on my 98? Front is like 10 minutes but rear looks like 1 hour? Any suggestions or instructions. Trying to figure out what parts I will need. I figure if I have some free time coming up I want to replace them. Only a little dirty on the sealing surface (little wet) nothing bad. Just the OCD is taking over!!!!!!!! :D :D :D

I love when you post. You tell it like it is!!!!!!! :) :) :) So much for the beloved Toyota design. I wish people would face the facts; they are not perfect and call it a day. I think you posted more times on this then my oil debates. :P If no one has checked it 100 to 1 it is bad. If anyone thinks it is not an issue, they do not have (OWN) these modes years. Mine was not the bad but pretty bad; and it is STOCK.

You can clean the TB and Ivac in about 25 minute and cost about $4. If you do a search on here, it has come up may times. I did mine this summer, very easy. Also mabe you have water in fuel? The fuel does not matter, It matters how log it was in there tanks. I am starting to use FP60 in my fuel.

Just repling in a "short form".... :D

You could go back to conventional oil and save 75% on your 5,000 mile oil changes and your engine will still be well protected. A large majority of the Toyota owners I know that drove over 400,000 miles without an engine overhaul used conventional oil. Consumer Reports engine tear down testing comparing taxi cab engines run on conventional vs. synthetic oil for 6,000 miles showed no difference in wear rates. This is probably why none of the major oil companies (Chevron, Mobil, Shell, Valvoline, etc) claim synthetic extends engine life (although offbrands like Amsoil, Neo, Royal Purple, Redline, etc. might make sensational claims like that as is typical for offbrand products) So you know that many 400,000 mile people? WOW, I am lucky if I know 3 and the rest are all 18 wheeler people (truckers). The Consumer Reports (CS) one is a total JOKE. Never mind the age but what oils where tested? It was based on taxi people. That is not even the worst conditions for oils. Starting and stopping is bad and then in cold with these is the worst. Did CS post the wear numbers? If so what where the start and the finish #'s? I do not think ANY manufacture of the oil states "synthetic extends engine life". They state lower wear numbers, better all around. Do you even test your oil to see if you are right or wrong???????????????????? I posted on this forum a ES300 with dino and one with synthetic. Lets say your dino lost BIGTIME!!!!

I agree but it depends on what oil is used. Not saying Mobil is bad or anything but comparing oil tests of un-used, mobil has less of what I want. If I did not use Amsoil and could not get Redline or a few others I would use it. I just dislike there way they do business (customer service wise, the way they push there product for round #2, etc) And yes some sythetics can go up to 50K and even longer but what people forget is not the adds, but the filters. If you have a by-pass you can go for years and hundreds of thousands on miles on (1) oil change; as truckers have done for years. BUT the by-pass filters are not cheap and they do add up. Then again if your oil tests keep coming back on a lexus (for example) you can keep going. BUT the oils tests sooner or later will exceed the cost of new oil and filters. SO you have to pick a point to drain etc. I like it for more then just seeing how good the oil is. I like it to monitor how the engine is doing and see what trends I have. I pay $18 for Amsoil testing. The flaw with Amsoil was you had to change the filters at 12K per Amsoil. It was a good thing since it was good to add a new filter and top-off with new oil. Now with Amsoil (donaldon) Ea filters, that is no more. You can go up to 25K on (1) filter; but price is like $12 to 15 each. I only pay $58 for a case of Amosil 5w-30. But I use there Series 3000 5w-30 in my Kubota tractor so I am going to try it in my ES. Wix filters are good (as I noted for a few years). I get them at wholesale prices (around $2.50 each) so I am going to try for some miles and test. In fact I just bought 18 filters (and 2 air filters) for all my engines (cars, bike, tractor etc) for $60.

Door was corrected at his shop. He said both sides are off. There is a tool for it but he fixed it quicker since the tool takes longer and does the same thing. Said never sees the door TOO high but rather too low.

ok, thanks. I need to go see my buddy at the auto body shop and see if he can figure out what is up with my door being to high (1/16 inch). I will ask if he can beat the online prices (I don't think he can).

Not knocking ya, but I would never buy a McCulloch kit. They are made in China (Shanghai). They are sub-par, low-quality aftermarket products & their office is located in Taiwan. Again this is McCulloch here but XenonDepot kits (Xtreme Kits) are the samething. At least buy Philips here for the Lexus! You get what you pay for.

Does anyone have the part number or a link to the front door (driver side) window weatherstripping on a 1998 Es300? Can't find it on newlexusparts.com

No being mister negative here, but so far my first puchase of Brembo pads where good till the rotors hit 13K miles. Warp time....They went into the trash with 13,xxx miles on them. So I do not know if I would buy them, for what it is worth. I put drilled and slotted on the auto now, only time will tell.

I know I am not sloppy by any means, pretty much very meticulous and no matter how long I spend wiping up the used oil from the poor oil filter location, it will drip on the garage floor and smell after a few drives to work Based on Lexus or Toyota you can use other then their coolant (as I noted in the past many many times) and color means nothing. It is a dye too. It could be hot pink and you do not care; you care about the properties. Yup, they state that but you fail to take it to the next level…..if you asked them like me, if you do not use there coolant any EG coolant is fine. If you do a search you will see the post I stated from Lexus.

I would look by the oil filter since most times, when they remove the filter, the used oil runs down the engine.... My drips for a few days after a change.

that website is ok on prices but add in shipping, they are high. They are better ones with free shipping if you look.

Well either my driver door (1998 ES) is off or my hinges (latch) are off. My door is to HIGH, not low. I have not tried to adjust it since it was -3 degrees this am driving to work!!!! I looked at it while in the garage and the door is too high when closing. When I put slight downward pressure on the door, when I close it, the metal sound (snapping) stops. So either the door latch is to high or the car hinge (the latch) it goes into is to high. The sound I found is from the window hitting the hard upper molding around the window/door. Is it the same issue as SW’s???? Any idea’s? Thank you

i got my k&n filter at walmart for about $35 bucks which i don't think is bad at all. i believe an OEM filter cost almost 20 bucks so it pays for itself after 2 changes with the OEM, plus you get the added performance enhancement. ← Kind of link this 3 week old debtate........ http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...25768&hl=filter

I do not know what the means... You asked and I told you I am sorry you assumed things. Next time ask for something you want. If you want to think you are right, great have at it. So far, all the info I have is, well, we both are. One is what "it" is and one is defining it in math terms; which 90% of people could careless. Again all the jobs you have had even add no values for ways I said up top. Still do not get it. Take it offline since I wait for your contact. Attempt #6. I feel like I am talking to a pre-schooler who does not listen. How your "nuclear power plants" correlates to a car not warming up, I will never know.Then again anyone can follow standard work and processes.

That is great don't take it offline. So now I am wrong..That is great and I just looked it up online this am on a famous encyclopedia, The American Heritage, yahoo, website; hmmmmm, wrong you say? I guess I am wrong since I did not build this and that and teach this and that; which correlates to nothing. Anyone can follow cookie cutter steps or “few rote directions”. Your definition is one of many. Mine and yours are both right. You asked what PH is, not for the math formula (def) for plug and play. You asked and I told you. Now if you wanted the math formula def that is what you would have gotten. Ask more specific next time. I have asked you 3 times for a conductivity meter and not a TDS meter. People use TDS meters and not “conductivity”. I do not buy a “conductivity” meter I buy a TDS meter and I am the one that stated this first. I stated this days ago and no response from you but TDS is wrong, blab blah... I asked ask you for the documentation for all the steps I follow for my reef? Nothing on your end, shocking ha. Oh, my attempt is again to take it offline since this is off topic. Can't people with PHD's understand this nor understand forum rules? I will gladly talk more offline since apparently I guess us little people know "jack"; attempt #4 now to take this off. Wow, what does it take. Again I would like to talk more offline but many attempts fail on your end to comprehend this. Your knowledge of this is light years ahead of man kind, I am sure, but just because you build this and that teach this and that means nothing. The only person in this thread that cares about this is YOU! You can start your own topic and go back-and-forth with yourself if you wish? I guess we need a mod here since I guess a guy with a PHD can't understand this & that no ones cares! You are unreal and I have asked to stay on topic. Take it offline (Attempt #5).