mburnickas

Please…. make it stop; Too funny. The best propaganda/commercial to date monarch. Do you NOT post on OEM stuff? I hope it is monarch approved via Toyota. Toyota must love people like you. They can kick you down and lie and you keep going back... The ones I personally like (very laughable at best) are as you posted; 1) The only warranty replacement battery approved for your Toyota vehicle. 2) Meets or exceeds Toyota specifications for all vehicles 3) The right balance of Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve Capacity to provide power and cranking ability time after time 4) Coast-to-Coast warranty service at more than 1,200 locations. Thanks but I will take my Optima Red top (34R)for less, performs better and in a small space.

I have OEM mats. One for winter and one for summer. I had these plastic/rubber mats in my truck when I had them; Nice mats (for sow/water) till they got wet, slippery as all hell.

Lots of people mix there own oil. He likes to "blend" his own oil....neat....

on what?

I agree but I think most dealers will not clean them and just throw a new one one; BONG more $$$$$$. I know my diesel truck ate BARO and air temps sensors like mad with an oil glazzed filter. Switched back and no issues. It also ate Glow plugs replays to (poor design). For me, I know I could oil the filter, drive the truck for one month and the air it pulled it would pull the oil right off hence dry filter. There also had to be an eternal age around the filter so it would not pull it right in A $55 filter cost omre in time from DTC codes and sensor replacement then it was worth. These little sensors the size of a battery are more then you think. Maybe in a car they would be fine. Just keep an eye on them and do some cheap oil est to see if your Si are low or high.

So what are you saying ? Use oem $17.00 filters and dont use k&n 45.00 filters?I am just trying to learn what replacement parts are best to use on my car! I dont have an opiniuon or a care either way just what is best and how often it needs to be replaced or re-oiled whatever. ← As I stated, "I would not use it, but that is me." I dislike these filters since 99.99% of the time people over oil them. When people do, the oil sticks to sensors and they fail; hence the $45 filter will cost you more in sensor replacements. If you under-oil them, dirt will go though and cause more wear in metals etc. There is a fine line to over oil and under oil. So as I stated for car apps, "I would not use it, but that is me." For my bike it is different since I can over oil till the cows come home and nothing will happen. I have no sensors to mess up.

Generally speaking, most PS fluids are near the same viscosity as ATF, since they both serve as hydraulic fluids. A PS fluid from the bottle will have a slightly higher viscosity than ATF and is usually clear. I never liked the clear fluid as leaks are difficult to spot. ATF is used in PS's because that way, one hydraulic fluid can be used for both the AT and the PS. Power steering fluid is just like ATF but without the additives that can be tough on the seals. They are not going to deny you anything since they will not know the fluid type. some ATF use the same dye as PS. Again the two are so close in properties you can use either or. You are worrying about nothing. "After all if it lead to a court case... They would look bad......" The only way they will tell is by an oil tests. Outside of that, there is no way. Plus there is no way if you use either or it will fail. They can both do the same job since both are close minus the adds in the ATF (for atf seals). Plus the odds of somethingh failing due to fluid is pretty slim.

monarch- Are you a Customer rep for Toyota. You think Toyota is the best car in the world or something. They have problems just like any other manufacture. Do you want me to post all the TSB, recalls etc from Toyota???? But the “400,000 or 500,000 or 600,000 mile club” is getting pretty boring. What, no pictures of some dashboard with xxx miles, some forum post or some old guy standing by some truck???? There fluids (OEM) are nothing special, nor is there spark plugs etc. Really, do I need to post yet again all the common issues with your beloved Lexus/Toyota??? Here is one for ya? http://www.bluewaternetwork.org/telltoyota/index.shtml I will say one thing, you discriminate more then anyone I know on this forum. It was the age deal that bothers you first. Now it is where you live or region, if you (as you posted yesterday) “American mechanics and American car builders don't give a BLEEP about reliability and durability”, etc. I am waiting for you to say something on race and education next.

Air filter and oil (and filters have been discussed on this forum before). Do a search K&N is only slighty better at high RPM's. Do you need it, no. Most over oil K&N and then mess up sensors. To me it is not worth it. I think I posted this on one of your other threads. Oil filters depends greatly on efficiency and capacity. You can have a great efficiency but capacity is through the floor. Mobil 1 oil can last much longer then anything in the manual. Good oil.

Bosch = bling bling :D :D :D :D :D I have used them in my mustang when I had it. No probems. My ES is going on 90K miles and I jsut tested them via my scanner. So far they are working just fine and not showing any replacment in the near future.

Not trying to be mean but $600 is a lot. That is one reason why I hate dealerships. I only go there IF I HAVE to or for a TB, WP or belts. The rest I can do. I know they need to mkae money but when you walk in the door, you need a gold card just for an oil change!

I agree! Very helpful link bart. B) max, add the spot where you got caught to the list.......might help warn someone else in the future. ;) ← To bad the link does not provide more stop where they get ya. It is lacking on the MA turnpike, bigtime.

you still need to wash the filter and oil it. It is up to you. I would not use it, but that is me. Electrical parts are too much $$$ to afford to blow them for a $50 filter. Now my GSXR is a diff story..no sensors. :D

well I have been watching the "sales" if that is what you call them. Buyit when you want since the little % you will save, in my eyes, is a joke.

$300 for labor and Diagnosis??? You can go to autozone for free to get the codes. Installing them is so easy...like an oil change.....Really like spark plugs (very easy). More then an hour is, BONG, ripoff. Peace of mind is what you make it. For the extra $140 EACH, peace of mind can be bought! :D But that is me. Anything more then $150 Universal for 2 or approx $360 OEM is enough. Then again I would test them to check volts before trashing a sensor. You are not doing a timing belt here. It is an O2 sensor here! Hassle, well, if you can afford it ........(approx$250 more then I would pay). Then need people to pay for the garage lease! :D

You are not goint to "risk" anything using either or. The ATf will have more seal this and that in it. LOL Also if you use the old Toyota long life coolant you do not need to flush since it is the same minus the red dye and 5% other stuff. You need to flush if you are converting to "dex-cool" type coolant from EG based. Not a EG to EG. 15K??? Never heard of that since I have been driving. 99.9% say every 3 years or 30K miles.

Bosch $67 (you say 30K; never heard of this but I will play) Lexus OEM $188 (last about 100K) So you take $67 X 3 = $201…Look at the savings!!!!! Or better yet save about $140 and buy a Denso Universal O2 sensor for about $45. I know in my ES the EGR is a poor design (thanks to Toyota Eng) so the 02 will do nothing to help. With gas dropping and I do not care; the extra price is not worth it.

In my eyes, any oil-glazed filters are, well, you might be playing with fire since sensors do not like oils etc. Then again people love to over oil them. It is a toss up. But I do not know, off hand of any 50K mile ones.

Might have might not have. On average or in general they last about 100K miles and then need to be replaced. You should check them before replacing them. But $600? Seem like they add about $200 beans for labor when I am sure you could have done it in about 60 minutes.

Hate to tell you again, Lexus stated you do not need to use Toyota Long Life antifreeze. I noted this time and time again...for over 1.5 years with you. Based on the properties of EG coolant, Lexus / Toyota is not really all that special. Take way there “less than 5% hydrated inorganic acids and organic acid salts” all the rest is what you can buy in normal stores if you look. Most stores sell 100% free silcate and phosphate free coolants. For me, anything that is ok for diesels if just fine for my autos.

Again the properties are so similar it is not even funny. I use ATF fluid in my cars that call for PS. I have also do the other way and no issues. Again the properties are so similar, do not even waste your time. Yup, the ATF has different additives etc, hence one is made for ATF's and the other PS sys. Again the to fluids are very close in properties you care about. Unless you need high VI to keep from shearing, high HTHS to keep in again inline, lower pour etc. Coolant is a dead issue. Do a search and look what I posted. Even Lexus Corp stated you do NOT have to use there fluid nor do color mean anything.

Based on JDP you are well a little off. I disagree look at dex 3 ATF and most power steering fluid. They again are very close. Really I have been using both in my cars/bikes etc for 16+ years and nothing happes happened. In fact I do not use DOT 3 in my ES. Hmm, I have seen & used distilled water for years (as outlined in there car manuals) and normal EG in Amercian cars without problems. Most time it is people use high silicate antifreeze since they base it on where they shop (walfart). Toyota seems to have more cooling issues with there older ES (below 99) then my Fords ever did. Hell I used green EG diesel coolant in my ES without issues. Also color has NOTHING to even do with it. Lexus uses a dye as they told me! You must think all American engineers or America mechanics are morons. I understand your ways but I do see you post as being a little rude and offensive to it since I know many automotive engineers, many engineers in general and I am one myself (aerospace engineer). Are you an engineer???? Also you seems to hate all these American Engineers so much; then move over to Japan and become and engineer since we are so bad over here! Good luck since I know what it took for my degrees. Case in point Lexus/Toyota has problems like everyone else. It is all not “roses and wine” on there end. If it was, there would not be common PROBLEMS on this forums with Lexus Toyota!

If you look at the fluid properties of PS and Dex3 (atf) they are VERY close.

Why would anyone want to put a tach on a lawnmower anyway? Just to start a thread probably. ← I agree. don't wast the time. Most lawn mower are throw away, unless you pay a few thousand (lawn mower, not tractor). I know my tractor can have accept a turbo! Then again why do I need one nor would I even own a lawn mower. :D :D :P

why not do this, I was thinking. Take your print out down to a local tire place and see if they match it. Your spelling is not bad at all. There is another forum I vistit and the kids over there are a joke. If you have your decoder ring .......maybe you can "kind of get it".