mburnickas

Toyota has said nothing new that contradicts what it has said in the past. Examples: 1) Toyota still recommends owners use Genuine Toyota Motor oil, whether natural or synthetic. 2) Toyota still does not recommend extending oil changes when using synthetic oil 3) Toyota still does not recommend the use of oil additives. 1) They state “Synthetic oil is an advanced type of engine oil that offers greater protection and reduces internal friction significantly.” I guess you missed that part. Did you read this part (nothing new here; about 20 years behind the times) “Synthetic oil performs and protects your engine better in both hot and cold temperatures. It reduces friction, thus increasing horsepower and decreasing fuel consumption”. 2) There recommendations on oil drains as they posted on their corp site is LAUGABLE at best. Talk are behind the times. Unreal. They can’t recommend since it is too complex for most to understand. It is opening up a can of worms. To me, based on testing, people are clowns for doing low drains. But ha, I only tests my oil. Most still think oil color means something to. 3) monarch, I wonder how you can state some much on about Lexus info (cut and paste here) when you do not even test your oil. I still never understood that. If you did test you oil and would see how bad it is. You really have no idea here based on you posts over 3 years on this forum. It is like people bad-mouth this and they when they do not understand or have tried it. Spend the $15 and see how good there oil is; or lack there of. 4) Where does it state oil adds here? This is a completely different area. I know there are some adds that work really well (and proven in testing; real world) but most people are too cheap to buy it (like synthetic oil) or they again do not understand it. I know my adds add over 1 MPG in my ES and almost 1 in my wifes car. Nevermind cleaning the ring packs, cleaning pistons, cleaning all other areas that see the buring process. To close, they state there are advantages to it; which is great to see. Also they Lexus/Toyota do not make oil, they buy it from a oilhouse. I do like how they say it (synthetic) is better now. Yup, all the talk about Toyota note saying anything about it. I also wonder if it is a group 3 hydrocracked oil or a group 4. 100 to 1, it is a group 3 at a group 5 price.

Toyota (at least Canada) now recommends synthetic oil…. I am shocked since Toyota is behind the times with oil. Somelinks. I do not buy there “special” oil. I wonder who they buy this from. Mobil??? http://www.toyota.com.my/index.asp?fuseact...article&aid=439 http://www.toyota.ca/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WW...o800012e%2ehtml

Egr going? Maybe throttle body, Ivac or MAF dirty?

Not being negative or anything but how does the fluid filter enhance the fluid capability vs shifting patterns? I could see a different fluid yes, but a filter only, hmmm. To me, that is like me saying a Amsoil, Mobil, wix or Toyota will all make the engine give a feel of more HP, quicker accl or more MPG.

I did not say the valve cover deal, RPrindl did. Also pulling the valve cover off and seeing what you have will not tell you anything on "how frequent the oil was changed". It WILL tell you if the oil has left varnich, sludge, carbon, etc. You can have a dino oil changed every 5,000 miles and still have varnish, carbon deposits etc. The oil used, engine temps etc all play a role. All engines leave carbon depots in the oil since it is burning fuel for energy. the ammount of carbon is integral to the burning. burn very clean means engine is running fine and vs versa. I would personly use something to clean up the deposits in the oil, pasages in the engines, carbon on rings etc; like LC20, seafoam, etc. And also I would use something in the fuel to clean the fuel sys since overtime they do get dirty. Mobil is on the thin side of there rated oils. Or there cst is low (normal for oils). I would either try a different weight oil (10-30), kind of oil (non mobil), or then switch to a diff filter.

Using a toyota filter OEM (paper filter: aka old technology here) does not do anything or prevent anything. Plus there ARE better filters on the market. Saving $$$ is not the issues. Are Toyota filter good sure, but there filters are average at best. This is also not the first time I have seen people complain on startup noise using mobil 1. Do a search online and you can view these issue yourself. Oil sludge will NOT be shown by startup noise. Come on here people. Oil sludge will be shown by burning oil (smoking) oil consumption, high NOx, high OXD, low TBN, etc but not startup noises. Based on the odds of having sludge is not gonna happen. I am doing 12,000 mile oil drains and inside my valve cover was fine. You want pix and oil tests??? Inside on my cover was mint.

there are several links. Do a search since this comes up about every few months. Also I would not say cheap. It or the online places are cheap(er) then the dealer in your area.

I would do these. Change the oil and filter. Install a dino 5w-30 oil other then mobil 1. Maybe mobil ep? Install a new wix or napa oil filter. Or add come LC20 to the oil. If it still does it maybe do an oil test.

Why not install the back ones yourself?

Why do prices for this service vary so widely in different parts of the country? :( No clue but commen sence and $$$ says if you live in a high(er) priced area, you will pay more. You live in a state with a higher income you will pay more. It is like gas prices. I know in the western part of my state, prices are cheaper then out east. And I am sure prices up here in the Northeast will be higher then down south ETC ETC

The 98 does not have a so-called "serpentine belt". It has I think (3) belts total. (1) for AC; (1) for alt (2) and one for water pump (I think). I know charley240sx stateed on some price but not all areas are the same. If you are out east (boston) you are not going to find that price.

??? Why, ES have a life time filter. Depends on miles on car. I had mine checked and they said it was fine. Don't waste the money they said.

battery just sitting there should be over 12 volts. If below, bad battery. When car running at idle or whatever, it should be around 14.2 (+/-.2).

...becasue they are very close and it does not make a diff. Again the add pkg comes into play along with a thinner viscosity (very small). Look at the numbers and go from there. I have switched back and forth without issues. The "wear and tear" is again going to be soo small you would not even notice. You would notice a few high or lower TBN, OXD etc. So unless you test, you are guessing.........Plus what enginners designs does not mean anything to me. They do mess up and so has Lexus at times. Enginners are not gods. I should know, I am one. To close look at the properties and see what or how close they are. It is a joke.

I do not own a Ls but I would say TypeIVi would/should not be used. That would be like me putting Type 4 in my Es300 (1998). It does not need it nor was it designed back in the day. OEM fluids are not any better then others. You are paying for the name and it (Toyota) is a waste of money; unless you have extra money to spend. I would use Dexron III in there since Type 4 is a different fluid per say. They is only one business I know of that makes a fluid that does Dexron III and Toyota Type IV in the same fluid; that is Amsoil ATF which I use. Going on over 30K miles and the fluid is new looking as the day it went in and smells like new stuff too! In case of doubts buy the OEM stuff, or you can do a search in the forum, there is a lot of info about Tranny Fluid. As far as I am concerned it should use type IV, or you can buy the Amsoil premium stuff that calls for your car. For Amsoil products you can do a web search to find the location or the method to get it. Secondly your PS uses Dextron III Tranny fluid, not PS fluid as American cars do! If you put PS fluid into your Lex, there could be leaks at the seal. Never overfill Tranny or PS systems, since the fluid will make pressure and premature failure of seals and leaks will develop. C. PR If you look at chemical properties of ATF (dex 3) and Toyota fluid they are VERY close and I mean close. It is the add pkg and the viscosity that are a little diff. The chances of leaks is well, you have better luck hitting the lottery.

Uh oh! Here we go again....... I know…shocking ha… “Martie, I built a time machine” and it is stuck in the neverending, never supporting anything pictures.

I usually agree with you, trust me but so far the Fp60 is and has worked great in 2 auto's. I picked up over 1 additional MPG with my ES and my wife picked up almost 0.800 MPG; via 3+ years of tracking with Excel. I also found that in my GSXR1100 a fuel add GREATLY helped my hesatation from 0 to 60 mpg or in the low end. Since I HAVE an ES, unlike others, there are same users that only post info from the manufacture only. Then on the other hand the manufacture sells there OWN product to do the very samething that advise not too. I have found they Toyota/Lexus charges what they want, have issues (several common ones) that are very easy to fix and they think there customers are clueless (and rich too). Toysrme has some good fixes and so do some others. Do a search since cleaners etc have come up before. It is like some people think you do not need to clean the TB. I can show you a new white shirt that looked black when I was done do to a poor EGR design.

From the pictures they do not look like proper HID projectors since the cutoff well, sucks. Even if they were installed incorrectly the cutoff would look WAY different. The beam battern and cutoff are all wrong; nevermind the major glare. Also $300 is WAY over priced. You can buy a complete retro for $350 with phillips stuff. Also I do not put much faith in XD either and I do agree with Sk here.

I personally think it is overpriced but that is me. I use this in all my equipment (for fuel): and there LC20 goes in for ring pack cleaning. http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm Also the TB can be cleaned with $3.50 synpower cleaner from NAPA.

Depends. are you also drained the diff? I hope so. All in all, 4 qts (with diff) is more then you will need.

As I have showed for a few yesrs here, color means nothing since it is a DYE. Then again Toyota coolant (red) is nothing new and there are several kinds that will work just fine. I was the one who asked Lexus what there coolant contained (and psoted on this forum). Nothing special for my es. All you care about is low/no silicates (which have been around for like 15+ years), if it has Phos in it and that it is EG based. soem of the good ones will have the 5% OAT in it. I would do a search on there coolants or types here since this has been talked about as many times as synthetic oil. To close, I do not know what Toyota coolant (red) costs since I have never bought it. Alwyas used diesel coolants in all my autos since I could drive. My Es is going on 4 years. Looks brand new.

Did you check the oil level?

Funny, for me I would test the sensors and maybe save myself some $$$$.

my hood does the lame thing per say. There is slack or tolerance in the hitch. Try adjusting it if you can. If it rattles is it metal to metal. I would lube up the latch with spray grease and maybe check to see if you have rubber bumbers on the hood area. Oh, Welcome to LOC!

I agree. my 98 Es manuals states use any EG coolant. In fact you can use many none-toyota coolants and be 100% fine. Hell, I have been doing it. The color again as I posted long ago means nothing since it is a dye in the fluid.