mburnickas

http://lubecontrol.com/ I install FP60 everytime I fill up. SO far the engine is smoother. I use 1 oz per 5 gallons of fuel. From what oil testing people say the LC20 helps oil bigtime. I have been told it lowers OXD and NOX a lot (which is an issue in my ES), cleans carbon and sludge (which you will a little carbon in there). Amsoil is good by LC makes it better, from what I have been told. We will see on my next upcoming oil change.

If you have lots of “stuff” in it and flush, you can cause more damage; clog ports, valves etc.

From what I remember, many Lexus dealer do NOT like flushing a tranny. I would have to agree too many issues can araise.

I did a drain & fill in august with Amsoil synthetic ATF which is compatible with Toyota Type IV fluid (same as mburn uses.....mburn correct me if I am wrong).......my tranny is shifting just fantastic! Amsoil & Toyota IV are the only 2 tranny fluids I know of that is safe to use in our trannys. B) Here is some more info on the Amsoil ATF. http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/atf.aspx Yes you are correct on both. The fluid type and the smoothes it gives. The fluids beats most fluids out there for what it does.

So you spend $96 for 6 drains or 36K miles? Wow, I spend $21 using synthetic during same time..... I hope you know about atf and if you are really getting "cheap isurnace vs wasting $$$$$". Did you benchmark these drains?

Unless there is a reason to do it so soon, you are wasting your money. Tests the fluid at 3K miles or 10K miles and if it (tranny) is running fine, you are wasting $$$$. Then again why would you do this drain so soon; even before the engine oil is due and not per Lexus design standards (manual). But of you have that much time to kill, fluid to worry about, etc......... Your "Toyota 400,000 mile club" must have lots of free time and need something to do I guess. Or are you using a cheaper ATF fluid...... I think my 35 to 45K drains on ATF and 12K drains on oil are too short (and I test).

I never saw a pix of there valve cover or valves to see the carbon or varnish. Plus I never stated it (varnish) is a problem but you WILL have more with dino; It is a FACT here. It is the nature of cheap dino oil. Not going into it but do somehome work on oils and then post back. It is not apples to apples. So that is 1 person with 320K miles...and that means? What is the car history, location, driving habbits, fluid, person driving (age) etc????? Showing a screen capture means ZERO. Feel free to take this offline of on bob is the oil guy. I will be more then happy to talk about it.

Hmm, Why do I disagree with this???. I wonder why Toyota went from 7,500 miles drains to 5,000 drains in there Es300????? And re-designed there engine a little since there sludge issues? Plus you WILL have more deposits and varnish when using dino. Not re-inventing the wheel here, it is a lower quality oil.

So you drain the ATF more then what is stated for an engine oil change in the book???? But 3 to 6 is not overkill it is a complete waste of time and money. Sludge in a pan is normal to some degree. That is why they have the magnets to make the sludge (metal) stick to the pan and not float around. Color means zero to me. Smell the fluid. If it smells burnt, OH BOY! If smells new, you are fine. Everyone gets freaked about colors of fluids. Unless you are superman color means nothing to the eyes. Now an oil testig, that means something. My ATf fluid (amsoil is going on over 30K miles, smells new and yes looks like it came right out of the bottle.

I think $400 for a TM and trany flush is not bad. Now that being said I would NOT do a trany flush. Asking for trouble, big time. PLus a 150 to 200 for a tranny flush! Little over priced here by about 90%. To close, I had my Tb, water pump, drive belts, cam and crank seals done for around $700+ tax (MA). the Toyota dealers around here are the same. Plus location (state to state) have a big impact. I do my tranny filter every OTHER drain. The filter and gasket are like $30 plus I add Amsoil ATF. Complete job is about $60 and last 35 to 45K miles.

looks very close. I figure I would just share the longer drain with everyone and they are safe, even with sludge prone engines! Even the oil testing said it was fine; but, I just HAD to know....:) I know the TB cleaning along with the IVAC made the last oil change test go, BONG! Plus the $30 for an oil change is cheap for what it look like. It was easy to pull the cover. Just need to wait to dry....... Thanks again to you for the help....

Well today I pulled of the front cover on my 1998 ES; wife was gone with the little guy so I had some free time (thank god!) Been doing 10,000 to 12,000+ mile oil drain intervals using Amsoil’s ASL for over 50,000 miles. The kicker is this is a sludge prone engine based on Lexus. Pix look pretty good! Here are some pix: http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/clear_shot_close.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover2.jpg http://home.comcast.net/~sump/car_valve/valve_cover.jpg Comments etc just post them. Figured I would share this since everyone comments on long drains, sludge issue etc. Just installed a new OEM valve cover gasket $11.21 and new Ultra Black RTV, thanks to Toysrme. :D Going to wait 24, to dry, then we are done. Total time was about 1 hour & ($15.58 total price for parts).

The only adds I would add to the oil are Auto-Rx or Lube Conntrol. I use Lube Conrol FP60 in my fuel and it is unreal. The engine is smooooth. It was smooth before but even the wife said something is different!!! :) I just bought some Lc20 tonight. I want to make sure my Amsoil is running clean. So this is money well spent I feel. Plus I have there (toyota) world-famous slugde engine, so I bought there Lc20 to clean more if Amsoil is behind.

No clue since I only lock my doors about 20% of the time! :D

You can have poor 02 sensors and no dash light will go one. They get weak over time. If you are on 177K miles on original sensors, you are on extra time. I would check them and go from there. 02 sensors are intergral to gas MPG and I only hope you are not spending $300 on (1) sensor.

Since you have a 97 if you go over the 90K and the belt break, no big deal.

Before you go buying a HID kit I would do a search on this forum and online. Check for what kits are good, legal issues for use on roads, cutoff, glare etc.

I'm having the same issue as well on my '01 ES. Currently at 119,000 miles, the mileage has been mediocre at best, ranging between 19 to 21 mpg, and getting roughly 300 miles on a tank before the low fuel light comes on. I'm debating on whether this has something to do with the O2 sensors, even though I have no check engine light. Other than this increased fuel consumption, my ES runs really solid and well. just check the 02 sensors That is low MPG.

I agree but based on my usage of Ebay lately, I would not waste my time. I have had more issues with sellrs in the past year then it is worth. I would and do pay more from stores online.

I would kind of do what Toysrme and myabe something else. You could do any of the following: 1) Install seaform in the engine oil and then drain 2) use Auto-rx and then follw there instructions 3) pull an oil sample and then test 4) If running rich, throw it on the ODB reader and see what it says for ratios etc 5) if sludged, I would pull the left valve cover off and see what you have 6) if sludged I think you would have blue smoke coming out tailpipe. I would also agree that most Lexus dealer and many Toyota are a ripoff, but that is part of being in business. Also the dealer is messing with you. You do NOT have to provide documentation of regular oil changes dating back several years as they state. Per Lexus all you have to do is, "All we ask is that you show a reasonable effort to regularly maintain your vehicle. " Plus I have been doing 10 to 12K drains on my car and they are fine.

Go to newlexusparts.com and see what headlight housings they have. If none, email them and they wil get back pretty quick.

I agree 100%. I was going to comment but the search function is a powerful tool; like the internet. Just need to do some homework... Oh Toysrme, there is a cool feature on this forum, it looks like this "You have chosen to ignore all posts from: XXXXX" ....GOD I LOVE IT!!

I bought Toyo's TPT last year at $70 each installed and that was wholesale. Same tire now is about $50 each installed. Based on the prices. They doubled (and the MXV$ more). I hope they say thanks andn smile when you leave.....LOL

I have beenn saying that Toyota coolant (red) was nothing special since 2003, go figure. monarch is a little wrong about the silicates here. There are many that have the same "stuff" as Toyota if you look around. Color means nothing in my eyes; go for WHAT is it made of. The color is just a dye as Lexes/Toyota told me. For me the water pump for an extra $199 was worth it. I spent XX for the car and now I am thinking about $199 for a water pump??? Hell my blades on my RC heli cost more!

WOW, that is a lot of $$$ for tires. I got mastercraft for my sister for $50 each. Assurance were like $7X for my car (all installed). What size tires? I know wholesale for my stock size tires (even 60 size) there are not many over $80 each installed.