mburnickas

Really??? My 98 has BAD wind noise and I always wondered if it had always been like that or what. What was the cost for the weatherstripping? Is it a DIY??? Thanks! My weatherstripping (WS) was ripped and also had wind noise from the day I got it. The crappy part is that the WS comes as (1) part, front and rear WS. So I had to replace the complete driver side (front and rear). Took about 45 minutes to remove old and install new part. Now the real bad part, price was $156.04 for the part. Plus you need to remove the pillars (black plastic piece between front and rear windows. It will break if not very careful. It will take sometime to "mold" to the new window. Once I put the new one on, I might order the pass side now.

Why no download the FSM for a 1997 car since it should be the same as a 96? Also my 98 had the wind noise (like 99% of the older es's) and I just put on a new weatherstripping. Bye bye noise!

Not starting a debate but when I owned a diesel the shutting off before you stopped WORKED! I even do it now. All you are trying to do is evap "some" of the moisture that will be in the sys. It might be wrong in some eyes but so far it has worked for me and many others on the old diesel forum. To each his own..

exdotcomer- based on I just had mine TB done and some other stuff. The is about what I paid. A place in Hartford wanted around $450 and herbchambers wanted aroudn $850 for TB and water pump. I had TB, water pump (with collant), all new dive belts, cam seals, and crank seal done for around $740 out the door. It might be a lot for some but; #1 it is at Lexus and they will stand by there work and #2; 90% sure it will be the first and last time I do this stuff on the car. I plan on getting a newer model in a few years. But then again, the wife might say keep it..... the plugs and wires shoul cost about $75 for everything. Time is about 1 hour to do them; this is with a few "mixed drinks too". It is really easy to do the back. Just go from the side. If you can get it done cheaper great. I look within a 120 miles range from my house and I got the cheapest I could find. Even Toyota (next door to Lexus) was the same price; go figure. My friend and inlaws own garages and I said thanks but no thanks. The stuff "Toysrme" stated you could do yourself since Lexus alone wants like $250 for a ATF and filter change, $85 for brake bleeding and other high prices...But if you can afford it, bring her in.

Gee all this from Saber, Vtec or monarch... this old post is for ya http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...t=000243#000005

all you ned to do is remove the rubber part/boot, the clip that holds the bulb in and then the bulb.

wix is a damn good filter bar none. If you are doing regualr drains wix is fine. I even use them. For longer drains I would switch to something else. The filter are like $3.50 each. Not being a pain or starting a debate but look at the mobil 1 oil tests and then some others. Mobil 1 is a good oil but there are better.

not being a pain in the ____; but anything above 4300K is getting dimmer. The best color is around 6000K. Get Philips ULTINON 6000K for the best color out there I feel. Easyto remove. They are H7 bulbs I think for low and high you would have to look online. Also be careful since some of the aftermarket bulbs burn very hot and can melt our harness.

yup

Still doing the good old internet plagiarism I see! :chairshot::chairshot::chairshot: Nevermind the CR data from 15 years ago! ROFL!

To sewell8819 (first part) and monach: You can switch back and fourth on oils without any issue. Hell I was doing it on my Ford 5.0 mustang days and worked just fine. My wifes old Toyota went back and forth for 115K miles and a few other cars. This issues was a big deal back in the 1980's due to seal swealer not added into true synthetics. Again this issue is a little old here and some need to step into the 1990's at least. Too bad Lexus (and a few posts) are about 15 years behind the times. I trust what Lexus recommends as much as I trust a sales person. They state one thing and then another. Again "recommends" are just that; nothing more nothing less. As much as monarch is trying to help he really has no reason why you can't use synthetic back and fourth other then stating that Lexus says. Take that away he has no reason or anything to back it up. The Japanese enginnering here monarch is getting a little old. If you search this very board you will see how good their Ito University is and there SPC is; it has issues like eveyone else. They are not perfect; if you had some engineering background you would know this. Plus I looked for you name on Bobistheoilguy.com and you were laughed out and never came back (banned it looks like). There were posts on you and you never even posted to support what many asked "What I would like to know is, just what is your back ground, current and past that "qualifies" you as such an expert on how to maintain toyota's." The best was what the owner called you out (as I noted last week); he asked "Seems you have a lot of answers but a lot of unfactual information to back up your statements." Here is about link/post 8 on you: too funny!!!!! http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultima...t=000243#000005 So far the people over there at least post something about how they came up with something etc and not posting "RP" data from other sites.

Normal for these years I think. I have a 98 and get the same deal. For me, unless you are racing the engine (high RPM's) a K&N will do zero. It is up to up. If you get one oil it correctlyand I would do a few oil tests to see if you have higher then normal Si levels. How many miles? Unless there is major sludge holding leaks, you can switch. A true synthetic will clean all the junk out and better in the long run. I would switch and maybe go like XXx% longer on drain; but, that is me.

OK, cool I will stop by the walfart and look. I know they had a black kind but I did not remeber which ones with the 90000% sales there are having and my wife/kid looking like "can we leave now"..... i really want to remove the valve cover (front only) and see how good or bad it looks. I will take some pix and post back. Thank again.....You really know your %$&%!

Toysrme I bought some of their Red -High temp RTV since. Other then the color and the red one I got is a higher temp, what is better? jsut wonder since I compared the two and both are OEM, for oil pans, valve covers etc. Any help since you are the expert here. here is a link to the stuff I got today. http://www.permatex.com/products/industria...licone%20Gasket

Go to newlexusparts.com and call it a day.

My point is, look at all his past posts, based on that and that only, Toyota does not have issues and should not need cleaning. They are perfect...LOL PS. I live 3,000+ miles from "that state" so you can say what you wish. Do not care. I like the gif..so there! :whistles:

Since you are so PRO Toyota with your salesman approach, if you read your owners manual, they {Toyota} reccomend to not use a cleaner on the TB, etc. There was a post on it and a guy poste what it said. Then with their other hand they are selling a cleaner. Gotta love Toyota, anything to make a dollar. Then again why are they selling a Throttle Body cleaner (and you using) when you state there is not a problem with Thorttle bodies, MAF sensors, etc.

Welcome to the famous Toyota sludge on the TB! Gotta love Toyota with this one. Really. More like cheap dino oil and heat. It is weird that you know Bob is the oil guy people when they are all over you with anything you post over there. Plus they will know more then you could dream of. I also liked how you where talking the same BS (in 2002) over there and even Bob (site owner) called you out; you left and did not come back....too freaking funny!!!!!!

Do a search on this forum. It has come up many times. It is called a pillar molding. About 37 each to your door.

If you do a search it will come up; in fact (hint hint) look on page 2 I think. This issue is as bad as the radion LCD screen. It will take about 30 minutes to remove the radio/climate.

BTTT= Back to the top. It makes the post or thread go back up to the very top for my "eyes" to see. :)

Correct when the car is not running you should lower but if below 12.2 it is getting weak. I only hope you do not then 12 or 13 when the car is running: if not, bad alt. My Optima is slighty over 13 just sitting there.

BTTT

I know my Toyo TPT suck in the snow. My mother has Goodyear Assurance TripleTred and my sister weather handlers are better then what I have. Price is about $20 - 30 more per tire.

9 volts! DAMN!!! I bought my old-school ES300 (1998) from Herb chamber 4-years ago and they were great. There service prices are a little high! I would check the alt too. You should see like 13.8 to 14.4 at battery at all times.