Toysrme

<- dumbass. I would clean it. Same thing as my oil screen, they were both ultra filled with crap. mburnickas has a good point about replacing them. If you don't change your ATF, or oil regularly I would change it as the fluids become very acidic. (Especially oil when coolant gets in it)

Go back and call him ignorant. Every Toyota A/T I can recall a transmission code for has a transmission filter. You've got it right.

How loud it becomes, that's dependant on what you do. A turbo will muffle the exhaust about the same as a small resonator will. Unless someone were to put a really quiet exhaust on, and hook the compressor inlet back up to something like the stock intake silencer - you can hear any of them. AFA how loud it is, that depends on the exhaust behind it. If it's open, it will be loud like my car was on the I put up when i first had it running without any exhaust. Turbine side, Compressor side If it has an exhaust behind it, exhaust wise, it will sound the same as if the turbo wasn't there - but softer. (you will hear the turbine spinning through the exhaust note, but most of the turbo noise comes from the compressor, where the air tends to shear at high velocity (That's the whine), and there isn't as much sound muffling) With a turbo, you really only hear them when they are spinning fast, be that spooling up to boost, during boost, or spooling back down. Tho not the norm, it's not uncommon for a large turbo not even to spin with an engine idling. This happens frequently when you get into rebuilt engine's running larger turbochargers than would normally used. In general, superchargers tend to be loud and whiney most of the time. Some people are annoyed by them, some people love it. Personally... I get annoyed by the many loud supercharged F-bodies aroud the area when they pull next to you at a stoplight. Then again, if I had a supercharged F-body, I'm sure I could tolerate the noise without a problem! LoL! Again, we're talking turbochargers, not superchargers. When I asked about the powerband, I should have explained myself more. I'm just curious on what people expect. As far as "what would the powerband be" isn't an answerable question. The powerband would be whatever we want to make it. Going from a small turbocharger that runs out of boost on the stock engine at high rpm, and an engine that could split the blocks in half isn't really much of a difference. It's simply putting a different turbocharger on and changing that 10% of the piping that's needed to hook it up. So... If you want 250, 280, 300, 450, 2000bhp, it's not really a problem - it's simply the cost of buying a turbo + fueling to support the power goal.

I wouldn't buy them, kevlar sucks. Horrendously low lifespan, average to worse cold braking, and inconsistant when warmed-up. EBC pads lasted me 2000 miles, and 4000 miles. (Slotted, and blank rotors respectively) Just buy some Hawk HPS Track pads. Very long life, gental when cold, race pads when warmed up. In short: Bembo blank rotors. Blanks stop fastest<period>. Slotted are for road racing at a road racing track only (Auto-Xbearly get's the pads warm) Drilled are inferior. Slowest braking, smallest amount of heat absorbtion/dissipation, prone to warping & cracking, even when warmed & cooled properly. Also, those rears won't fit our car. ES/Windom/Camry Wagon have larger rear rotors that the Camry line, and a rear brake proportioning valve.

The fan turns on with any load on the engine when coolant temp is in the normal spec, and it is a bit loud to begin with. =) Sure, check the throttle cable to cure a rough shift. AFA mileage, the transmission is either in a gear or it isn't. It's not going to make a differance if it gives you the quickest blast into gears, or the slowest lug. Mileage will be the same. I would reset the ecu (pull the EFI fuse a second and replace it). If it doesn't get better, change the o2 sensors. The generic Bosch replacements cost $25-30 each at autoparts stores.

Like I said, I'm just wanting to know who would be intrested & under what conditions.

How turbochargers work. How supechargers work Part I, Part II.

MNJack the TRD supercharger will work on any Toyota 3.0L v6. PM me and we'll discuss it.

Ya it's a good car. The looks hold up well, it's reliable, safe, and the brakes are awsome with a great set of pads - Hawk HPS Track pads (I've converted dozens... Best pads of all time), and Brembo Blank rotors. Skip drilled rotors, they're inferior in every aspect of braking, slots are for road racing tracks. Best upgrades? For wheels / tires. 17*7.5 wheels with 225/55 R17 are going to have the best handling/performance/steering/driving balance. $101 - Hawk HP Plus Race brake pads FRONT (mmm tirerack has the price inflated $35) (You need to run these pads... Ultra long life, very soft when cold, track stiff when hot) $47 - Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads REAR (FYI these are the OEM/dealer pads) OR $53 - Hawk HPS Street brake pads REAR $20 - DOT4 brake fluid - Yes... Flush the brake fluid every couple of years with Dot4. If you're rich, go for dot4+ / Dot5.1 (Same stuff) $125-$150usd - New Rear Sway Bar. (RSB) !¡WooT WooT¡! Whit eline over TRD if you can FIND/import a Whiteline!!! Here's everything you need to know about performance in 8 steps: 1) Intakes sound nice but don't do crap for power. So just make your own for free, or $15 at Lowes. 2) Headers are expensive out the &#33;Removed&#33;, & don't do anything for power until you run lots of n2o, or run high boost pulleys with the trd supercharger. 3) Cat-back exhausts are like intakes. Nice sound, but there is no power gain from it. 4) The only gain<s> in the exhaust are in a custom y-pipe, and replacing the cat with a high-flow cat convertor. $250-350. 5) There are no chips. You can't reprogram the ECU. You *can* buy a piggyback (SAFC, E-manage, SMT, FTC-1, there are a thousand of them) to LEAN the fuel from say... 4250rpm to the rev limit. Worth 10bhp peak. 6) There are no cams. Custom cam regrinds will cost $1200, not including paying someone smart to re-shim the 24 valve lifters. 7) The largest single change you can make N/A is having someone port & polish your heads with a 3 angle valve job. (and unshroud the valves) This costs $$$. 8) You should take the upper half of the intake manifold - correctly named the Upper Intake Air Chamber - see here: off every year and clean the inside of it; including the throttle plate, ISC valve (Idle Speed Control), EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation), and the ACIS valve. The ACIS valve is the big flap you see. That is our variable intake. Open at low rpm, @ 4100rpm & 50%+ Throttle & the car moving - the flap will close, increasing the velocity in the intake. The flap closing is what gives that small power surge at 4200rpm. By not cleaning the upper intake, carbon builds up on everything. You loose 5-10bhp. Eventually the carbon will build up on the ISC valve - causing a poor idle & stalling, the EGR valve - causing poor running, failed emessions & CEL, and cause the throttle plate to stick - which will make the throttle unresponsive when you barely put the pedal in. If you have thousands to blow, you can always do the now permanently out of production TRD Supercharger, or a custom turbo. $325-$450usd will buy you a wet n2o kit. You can run a 75 shot easy enough. Upgrade the fuel pump & figure a way to add more fuel & the engine should take on up to 320-350whp if you get enough fuel to it, and are super careful when you run that much power. (That's up over 400bhp) Keep in mind second and third gears are going to last one run if you have over 320bhp... The point stays the same. Personally... n2o is safe, but you need a compression check to make sure the engine can handle it, aux. transmission cooler, and if you're going to run more than 320bhp you *have* to have the transmission ugpraded or it's going to pop. It's a great first car. Not fast enough out of the box to get yourself into some serious trouble in a serious hurry, but not dog slow. handling can be whatever you want to spend on upgrades, and the brakes will stop the car very well without major upgrades no matter how much hosrepower you put down. They're also tanks. The gen3 Camry rear bumper design takes huge hits without much damage & the suspension will survive most sane impacts with curbs, ladders, and various off-roading experience (forward, sideways, and backwards!) without even loosing the alignment. =) Synthetic fluids... Use them, live them, love them.

Really I'm not sure what causes the kicking. You could try adjusting it incrimentally from one side to the other. Sounds like it's either shifting to hard, or way to soft -> which causes it to lug.

Who is interested in turbocharging, what kind of power level, and what price are you willing to pay. Be serious.

Kewl. Make sure there is piping to a turbocharger on the engine before it get's set back in perminantly!

1) What do you mean? 2) I would clean it first. It eventually happens to every throttle plate from carbon build-up. When it's cleaned you can also dry a spray lubricant like Triflow sold in hardware/bicycle shops. I'm starting to have some good results with it after a few friends recommended it to me. 3) The throttlebody is fairly easy to do. Normally it's 2 * 12mm nuts & 2 * 12mm bolts holding it onto the upper intake. Take the two electrical connectors off (TPS & IAC/ISC), pull the vacuum lines off, pull the evap line, pull the coolant line. That's the general instructions. 4) The rule of thumb is the less time a transmission takes shifting, the less the fluid heats up, the less wear on the slipping clutches & in general, less wear with everything else. No it won't degrade the lifespan. Nor will it make the transmission last longer under strain. -> The maximum line pressure of the transmission is not increased. The line pressure simply get's higher, quicker, causing the valve body to shift with less throttle & shift faster.

Common price. I love my 7424, my 3rd year with one. Autopia is the bomb too.

Ugh Not that we in Alabama see snow 1ce every 5 years, let alone deal with salt... But the bottom of the car is covered in ungodly layers of thick paint. I doubt it needs any help.

Funny story. When I rebuilt my motor mounts I swear to god I jacked the motor & transmisison up just jacking against the powersteering bracket!? Ya, that's two 14mm bolts on the rear head picking up about 600-700lbs!? LoL!

^ No o-rings on the pistons. They're differrent types of steel rings. He's changed weight to try to keep something from leaking. Valve stem seals, rings, or any other number of tengine seals. Find out what's leaking first. Fix the ignition malfunction first. Check distributor rotor & cap, spark plugs & wires. Wires next to never need replacing so don't get sucked in unless they can demonstrate the problem is fixed with new wires - if you do replace, either get high dollar wires, or the $99 OEM wires. Cheap wires will not work for long. Also check that the right side fuel injectors are spraying OK. For god's sake stop trying to rebuild the engine. If you are so itching to want to throw money into; it let me do it LoL! If you want to know when you need to rebuild the engine, do a compression check. 142psi is minimum, 178psi is maximum. If everything is over 160psi, you're fine. If you do ever have to reubuild the engine (that means you've done in some rings & the pistons have to come out), don't rebuild the engine... Buy a used JDM engine & swap that in. If you don't have emessions, great, if you do you need to swap YOUR rear exhaust manifold, EGR pipe & Intake manifold/throttlebody onto the new JDM engine as you won't pass emessions without it. Takes 10 min to do with the engine's out. If you ever do have to replace the head gasket, it's sometimes free the first time under a lexus/toyota headgasket recall. If it's not eligable, just for a side note, the block rarely get's machined because it rarely get's out of spec. Iron block VS head gasket VS aluminum head. Normally the head gasket goes & you replace it long before the aluminum head get's warped (It's not a v8 domestic, you simply won't drive one wtih a blown head gasket for months like you can a domestic hah). In the unlikely event the Aluminum head warps, there is an even more unlikely chance the iron block warps. What I'm telling you, is it's also rare to actually need to machine the head, or block. Get use to import engine's, they don't F up like what you're apparantly use to. It's a tank, the head gaskets have a tendancy to blow for various reasons, but they sometimes are a recall thing. (Right bank = rear bank btw)

Um. You could have a tech look at it real quick. They'll probably just pop it off & put it back on.

Well it depends on what the problem is silly LoL! You're suppose to find out... If its the rear valve cover gasket, tighten the bolts along the back side a turn, no more than two. If that fixes it, great, if not, it'll probably be a little bit better until you replace it.

Probably oil out of the rear of the engine. Valve cover gasket - rear main seal. It makes it's way to the Y pipe where it burns.

Call your local dealers, or why not try Lexus.com.

Some key makers have the tooling to do it. Lexus / Toyota dealers can order/cut them. wtf dude, ust buy a new key and throw that one away LoL! Yes... *I* am saying throw something away and buy a new part.

Don't worry about it. Throw it away it's an annoying piece of metal that makes it harder to take the upper intake air chamber off.

It won't hurt anything. The engine continually runs with large amounts of carbon running through it from the EGR. What year ES?

Check line fluid pressure.