Toysrme

Ok that's cool then. Good nephew! Na, they go in however you want it's not keyed , or anything.

Drive in it anyway & claim ignorance if any cops come throuhg 'cause it is a hybrid car.

Explain to me more on how he "cleaned them up" before you put them on & I have to tell you that you ned to bust them back out again. ;) And what's the cup? Sorry, I only know what the Toyota book tells me.

Check the coolant sensor.

Looks good. I would expect it to use a little lessfuel crusing around, but that's still damn good mileage.

Ya. The little remote brackets are pretty expencive if you get anything fairly easy to use. Eh, I'd just pimp three Toyota filters. Like $12 a change. =) I would love for someone to pull the stock oil cooler out of the block under the filter. I keep thinking running a single big tranny cooler & run the engine oil through the stock transmission cooler. Eh... The oil's cooled pleanty anyway.

Oh ya, whatever the name of the Toyota van is, they use a transverse 1mz-fe too. (JDM it's a Previa). Man that van sucks... The twin turbo 1mz-fe kit has been out for like... 7-8 years now for the Previa. We soooo always get the shaft! LoL!

You just reminded me I owed Sean a spacer LoL! My original OEM gasket vs 3/8" Aircraft ply one I just started. Pre filling, pre sanding, way pre finishing. Something like that! Somewhere between 3/8" and 5/16" is the maximum you can go on the stock allen bolts / studs without pulling them out. Since most people don't have the tools to pull a stud out (let alone a semi-corroded, frozen one). I suggest sticking way under a 1/2" & just letting anyone that wants bigger to order two! The transverse v6's are going to have a problem. They all leave a hood imprints stock & most intake manifolds smack strut tower braces. Anyone using a spacer is going to have to ditch a strut brace (Not that they do anything, that's another discussion) & be weary of the engine rocking into the hood! Also. It's not going to fit. The EGR pipe & rear support brackets will no longer line up.

What kinda mileage you get? & what are the fuel trims ;)

Not sure, aint looked at the benifits frmo them in a long time. I remember everyone doing 60K+ on the AMSOil competition site was running dual filters at the time. (I aint seen that thing in ages, I think it was on Geocities)

Ya I kinda lean that way too. Replace the belt, just make sure whoever does it really get's the PS pump tight like it should be. If it's not any better, swap pumps & keep the belt. (If it's not freyed, or damaged) There are a couple of ways to flush out the PS fluid also. I think there's like... Two quarts in the system, little more than one quart for a non PS powered fan.

Werd. When you change it out, you oughta setup an aux. filter for both oils & an atf cooler. I'm curious how it helps AMS. Always wanted to buy their stuff & add the aux filters, just never been at the top of the list!

Eh, or you could read the FAQ, or search on any average ES/Windom/Camry/Solara/Vista forum & find the answers. ;) Lighten up guys. Or else I'm pulling out the arsenal of amusingly dirty forum pictures! That happens to be the least offencive picture of the bunch. ;)

Yep.

I wanna know how hot the CTS thinks the coolant is too, that's funny! =)

Ironic, I was just talking to a solara owner having o2 problems. (16mpg) Something very important to note is how Toyota V bank computers tune fuel. The ECU treats the different banks like different engines. Ignition, controls, it's one engine, but when it comes to fuel... Nope! Each bank get's tuned like a different engine. (21 out of 35) (driving down road about 1/5 mile) Everything looks pretty good. Well, with 2.61lb/m it's making about... 30hp. If you just want to give me something to do, turn the cruise control on say 40mph. Type in 3/4/5 in snaps in a row. I'm curious on your o2 readings. 0.685v is a bit high for cruising around. Normally they don't go so high out of throttle transitions/open loop acceleration. One snapshot doesn't tell a story, I'd like to see 1/2 snapshots before & after. Man... If I had an OBD-II car, I would be big pimping the scanners that run on a palm. Those things read everything for real cheap! Eh, you get use to reading volt gauges & multi meters with OBD-I hahahahaha

mburnickas typically 0.1v-0.9v. Somewhere in the 98-01 period some brand sensors got a little better, getting up to 1.0v, and in the last few years, there are a few sensors that do up to 1.1v. It oughta dance between 0.45v & 0.5v if you're reading it live. What you're really looking for is the time to warm up & the responce. You oughta be ale to crank the engine & start driving & get a "normal" signal in 30 seconds. It can take longer if you just idle as they don't heat up. If you're actually reving, or driving around more than 30 seconds later & still don't have a "normal" signal, it's time for them to go. For some people it won't matter as many OEM's (like Toyota) have been using the newer style 3.3v o2 sensors for a good number of years in some engines, instead of the old style lambda sensors.

A 1mz-fe no, not for free. You can buy piggybacks to actually modify the signal to whatever you want. Old style used SAFC's can be sniped on ebay from $50-$150usd tho. That's not bad. More power Tuneability if you ever get major work done Less ring wear from possibly excessivly rich fuel

rtyson - unless someone is taking the fuel injectors themselves off the engine, dissasembling them & rebeuilding them (or atleast taking them off & sticking them in a sonic cleaner); they're just dumping a cleaner in the gas tank. The main o2 sensors are on the exhaust manifolds. There is one more after the cat, it isn't used in tuning as much as it's used to verrify all the emessions equipment is working. ^ MAF, lot of write ups on how they work, but just incase you don't know. The ECU sends a measured voltage to a wire that heats up inside the MAF. The more air that runs across the wire -> the cooler the wire becomes -> the less resistance in the wire -> the more voltage returns to the ECU. Thus, the ECU knows the volume of airflow entering the engine (Because it knows the size of the pipe). Because the wire temperature is also known, the ECU can calculate the MASS of airflow entering the engine (via volume & temp of airflow). They can slowly get dirty over time & need to be cleaned. Just be careful doing so as they can be fairly sensative to mis-handling & mounting orientation. SK would be better equiped on how to clean one, he's written it up before.

... Tell you wife she's wearing her brake pads out & needs to stop driving like a woman! :D j/k If it's a hard brake pad, it'll make noise if you use it hard for a while afterwards, until the pad/rotor surface goes back to being whatever it was before the noise. If you're tired of it, get better pads & change the rotors.

Actually, I just re-read the manual a few nights ago. If you want to get technical, it's inspect at 60,000 miles replace if needed, inspect every 15,000 miles afterwards, replace as needed. So... What we've all been saying for so long is really true - they probably last at least 90,000 miles without any problem. I still wouldn't put 120,000m on them...

Use black if you don't feel like cleaning them, use a silver if you want it to stand out more, but be classy.

The reason to do it is so you don't pay for what you don't need. If you go read the big oil forums, under most conditions, even the majority of cheap dino oil will do 5 months - 5,000 miles & have enough protection left to not hurt anything. (Notice Toyota has always stood by the 5,000 mile dino rule) I normally go synthetic & change @ 10,000 miles - 10 months. This year, having rebuilt the engine so many times, gone turbo ect. I probably haven't driven 2,000 miles between any single oil change. Not because I agree with changing oil so soon, I think it's rather stupid, but because I had the oil on hand, or needed to drain the pan, or run some new oil lines, or tap an oil place - whatever. misterlok, Toyota recommended dino for 7,500 miles under non-harsh driving for what, a decade? It wasn't until later engines that developed sludging problems that they changed it to 5,000 miles period. If you don't want to believe most good synthetics over the last 10 years have been good 10,000+ miles, that's your perrogative. But for your own benifit; talk to people that actually know what they're talking about before you make your desion. Surf bobistheoilguy.com forums & check the thousands of posts about what oil labs have to say about XXX oil type in YYY engine gives ZZZ lifespan. Otherwise, go put a good synthetic in your car & drive 7,500 miles, pay your $20 to send an oil sample to a lab & see what they have to say. ^^^ That's the only way you're actually going to get the answer you're looking for. Then when you find out most good oils can last that long, it boils down to what you personally think. Would you rather pay for a bunch of oil changes, or a few?

Noone has posted that generation ES / Camry repair manual online. http://techinfo.lexus.com/ if you want to "buy" the OEM documents. For anyone not wanting to do that crap... Check the same model year Toyota. http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/index.php So early on in the car's life, it's just the generic crap. Replace engine oil & oil filter Rotate tires Visually inspect brake linigs/drumbs and brake pads/discks Inspect the following: ball joints and dust covers Brake lines and hoses Drive shaft boots Engine coolant Exhaust pipes and mountings Steering gear box Steering linkage and boots Note: Driving in heavy traffic, on dirt roads or in urban, dusty or desert areas may shorten the life of the cabin air filter. Replacement may be needed if you notice reduced air flow from the air conditioner and heater or if the windows fog easily when you use the "Fresh" mode. Consult your dealer if any of these conditions occur. Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions Driving in desert or on dirt roads: Inspect engine air filter Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis Driving while towing: Inspect automatic transmission fluid Inspect differential oil Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis Personally... I advise draining the transmission pan & replacing the fluid every other oil change, or flushing it every two years. It would be a great idea if you would grab an aux. transmission oil cooler & add it to the vehicle. As skpeformance can hit on, if you want the fluid to come out like it goes in, you need to add an aux. filter (Be that transmission oil, engine oil, or even something like powersteering fluid - tho that's really stretching it pretty far hahahahaha!)

Werd, at least 98% of everything is exactly the same, but... The changes in suspension components (sometimes the same part numbers, different parts if you actually compare) Lighter power steering ratio The body styling fixes everything that makes the same year Camry look like !Removed!.(Look I love Camry's, but that doesn't mean they don't look like !Removed!...) The interior is the same thing, with far superior leather & wood trim. (Outside of Lexus, you have to step up to cars in 2x the price range to find leather as nice as any Leather equipped ES... I know... Lexus is silly!) The simple fact that it's built in Japan, with parts out of the JDM parts bin. Is the kicker. If you drive, or ride in both back to back, it's an obvious night & day difference. All you notice is similarity, but no more than anything else would have from any other maker. Let's face it... Everyone uses the same base design across the board - Toyota does the same. It's not like driving a "bloated Camry" (my way of explaining performance!). It's like driving a better, separate car from the same maker. Anyone that can't accept they're the same thing, but different, is ignorant - as a person, or in the observation of automobiles.