Toysrme

The great thing about light colors is you can buy your Klasse AIO and SG for $40, wax it twice a year, and *still* have it reflect & protect like crazy. DACP to polish Vanilla Moose as a base glaze 2 coats of Carnauba Moose, or PS21/S100 All applied & taken off the the PC 7424 once every 3 months. Wow... Nothing pops like a black, or deep red with the VM-CM combo! Totally makes up for having to clean it once every few days. =) All personal choice! :D

Not perosnally, I've never driven the TRD pads so I wouldn't know. For a non-first hand opinion, I can't recall ever reading anyone on a Camry forum rave about them, so... I'd probably do aftermarket pads before TRD if I were looking to upgrade. (I'm not sure what pad the TRD one is, the OEM Lexus/Toyota pad is the Akebono ProACT Ceramic pads. Keep in mind that doesn't mean dealers use that as a replacement pad, but that's what comes from them. My rear pads are ProACT's. They don't dust much & seem to last much longer than the other pads I've used back there. I would avoid Autozone type generic pads. Many people swear up and down by them, including some family members. I 100% hate them. I've done the normal pads & ceramics. I blow through the things... I don't remember the numbers, but if you search Toysrme and brake pad, you can see I killed a few sets of EBC pads, and some ceramics in ungodly amounts of time. I don't think I got 5,000 miles on any set. The only redeeming feature is lifetime replacement policy. So you can drive under the warrentee, then wear them out in a hurry & get a free set of pads. My crazy uncle hasn't paid for a set of brake pads in years! However... I know I seem like a cheap !Removed! most of the time, brakes are not the case. So far, it's looks like I will get 30-40,000 miles on my Hawk pads. (I've said numorous times, nobody can touch my very aggressive use of brakes.) I'd rather have the best pad money can buy for $60, than some crappy, or average pad that not only has to be replaced on a yearly, or bi-yearly(in my case) but has inferioir qualities to it.

People say it, but I've owned a few black cars. Just run a microfiber towel over it & it'll rip all the dust off. Takes 45-60 seconds to do the car in the morining. Quick detail once a week, that takes 5 min. Wash it one morning, that takes 5 min at most. An OXO brush and a waffle weave microfiber towel to dry with really take all the time out of washing. It becomes sheet water on the car, hit it with the oxo brush, sheet the shampoo off - run the waffel weave towel over it. Done! (I like to time mine, my personal best is 2:40!) Too much for some people, but when it comes time to touch-up black pigment is the least affected by UV =) so it's doesn't normally require any color matching! & sinse it's SSP, no clear coat to touch up with & it's thick! It's harder to scratch through the paint. Which is cool. =)

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=179057

Toyota B202. Black is pimp.

The brembo's are heavier, as thick as will fit in spec, and "probably" stronger (Less resistant to warping, gouging & damage). If you're braking hard, even if not enough to fade them. I think they're worth it.

My eyes suck, I couldn't see a difference until I saw a pair of mine in photoshop.

Cool beans!

but he still has to keep the ashtray open. :(

Exactly, you got it!

Nothing physically setups them apart AFA I can tell with my sets, so maybe electronics. Call a Lexus/Toyota dealer & get a master key cut form your VIN.

The low set is checking cold, the high set is checking warm.

You've got the center console supply. Personally, I would just tap a wire from the fuse box. Center console is has undersized wiring anyway.

E-153 - 4.4qts of API GL-3 (or better) 75w-90, or 80W-90 gear oil. (75w-90 is normally listed) E-153 is the only M/T they ever made avalible on the Camry platform AFAIK. However, I'm unsure what came on the gen2's(ES 250). It could be the possibility that the S54 was used instead. (Seeing that the E-153 was installed in MR2's in 1991) In that case, it would be 2.7qts of Dexron III ATF. I've only heard of a few gen2 Camrys with the E-153, but I've never heard of a M/T ES250! You're either very lucky, or someone swapped one in, either way - awsome! The '91-'92 E-153 from MR2 / Celica's specify Dexron compatible ATF, however every other E-153 recommends gear oil. Personally, I would use a synthetic gear oil.

I could be wrong, but I don't see why there would be a limit. They crank & run on the valet keys (atleast mine always has), which are just laser cut blades - so I don't see why they would put a limit on remote keys.

I don't know for you specifically but, Drive the vehicle so the transmission and engine are up to temperature (>/=158*F) Park on a level surface & set the brake. With the enigne idling and the brake depressed, shift through all positions (P-L, and back to P) Then check it against the hot level. The cold marks are always rough guides. I've always found them to be near useless on mine. Anytime I ever used them, I always ovefilled by a quart or two.

You're paying $90 for labor (Which is time & a half the book recommended charge anyway). Because the normal timing belt procedure does not take up the full alotment of labor charge you pay (labor is hour increments, rounded up). Changing the water pump is accomplished without rolling over into extra labor charges. There-hence-forth There is little, to no labor charge when changing the water pump with the timing belt. - The same as there is no labor charge for changing accessory belts when changing the timing belt. Changing a water pump from scratch & re-using the belts, ya $199 would be a steal! Having it done during related services, no, that's invariably getting shafted.

He can't, I can. =) j/k! We can go through the parts cost exactly then add up labor costs. The timing belt cost seems in-line, but Water pump: $199 is what's putting you way out of spec on the labor & parts cost. I would defend the labor charge on the water pump, but seeing how it takes 20 min to have the new one in once the timing belt is off. There just isn't any way to defend a $199 charge for a water pump. That's either double paying on the pump, or paying time & a half, or 2x on the labor (depending how expencive labor is at the shop). Either way it comes out wrong. . The water pump itself will run $60-110 depending on aftermarket, / OEM / high flow unit. Gasket is a couple of bucks, and it takes 15-20 min to install one when you change a timing belt. An experianced Toyota/Lexus mechanic will have everything changed in an hour's worth of labor - but that's not the norm.

It might smoke a few days if there is any oil / residue still on the engine. Let us know how it goes!

.................................................................... H o w o n E a r t h can <- not mean me... I mean seriously... What kind of logic is happening? There is a few hundred pixels to post, obviously <- lines up with my set LoL! WTF at the reaction to the question that I am calling anyone else a dumbass. Seriously guys... < left > right ^ reflects above ^^ above 2 etc. However if I can't call myself a dumbass, I would like the chance to reflect on my actions and edit my own post ROTF!

A bit high for me, but not the worst's I've heard by a looooong shot. I'd probably tell you to go a head if he was going to do the cam seals, and/or the valve cover gaskets.

Ditto, unless you're talking to a body shop with an awsome track record of matching paint - Toyota / Lexus dealer is the only place you need to buy it. Autopia.org - learn how to use it too! Definitely read this.

Most people don't like answering looks questions. Perfect example - You roll dubs on any Camry-car platform. It looks silly unless you spend some serious time rolling fenders & getting the ride height correct. However... That's obviously going to offend anyone that's ever bought dubs. There-hence-forth - A lot of us simply avoid asthetic questions unless it's really good, or really bad. Personally? 18's are great for looks, but 18 * 8.5 is too large, wide & heavy for good performance / responce. -> So I don't particularly care for them. Most of the time the rear ride height is good, and the front is 4, 4 1/2" of gap. We all get away with it with the stock wheels, but it looks funny/cheap most of the time once you've dropped money on rims & tires. You'll want to drop the car - or atleast mix & match springs to drop the front.

Bad rings, ultra worn valve stem seals. Plus every external oil seal if you look at the bottom of the car between the wheels & see little oil drips.

Depending on how bad the seals are, they can dump a boat load of oil -> even tho there isn't much oil in the heads to begin with. Normaly, any oil leak on the engine will find it's way to a y-pipe where it'll smoke up. I, originally, had a big oil leak when I had un-mounted my distributor for whatever reason after I rebuilt it. It took toooons of RTV to seal that thing, it was such a pain... Personally, if you're going to go through the trouble of paying for cam & crank & distributor seals, get valve cover gaskets too. (Most mechanics don't change the crank seal for anything.)