Toysrme

All of this is done at the torque/VE peak @ 4800rpm. P1c = 13.7 (14.7 psi @ sea level - 1psi intake restrictions) 2vz-fe 200bhp @ 12 A/F Ratio - BROWN 200*12*.01 = WA = 24lb/m 24*639.6*600 = 9210240 / 95%*2400*152 = 346560 MAPreq = 26.57 psia P2c = 28.57 psia pIIc = 2.08 230bhp @ 12 A/F Ratio - GREEN WA = 27.6lb/m pIIc = 2.37 3vz-fe 280bhp @ 12 A/F ratio - RED 280*12.5*0.01= WA = 33.6lb/m 33.6*639.6*600 = 12894336 / 95%*2400*181 = 412680 MAPreq = 31.24 psia P2c = 33.54 psia pIIc = 2.42 320bhp @ 12 A/F ratio - PINK 320*12*.01= WA = 38.4 lb/m 38.4*639.6*600 = 14736384 / 95%*2400*181 = 412680 MAPreq = 35.7 psia P2c = 37.7 psia pIIc = 2.75 350bhp @ 12 A/F ratio - BLUE 350*12*0.01 = WA = 42lb/m 42*639.6*600 = 16117920 / 95%*2400*181 = 412680 MAPreq = 39.05 psia P2c = 41.05 psia pIIc = 2.99 psia

Since I just did the 2vz-fe for someone, I'll just post the data I did earlier anyways. Calculating what the engine needs & how to read a compressor map. To plot the compressor operating point, first calculate airflow: Wa = Airflowactual (lb/min) HP = Horsepower Target (flywheel) A/F = Air/Fuel Ratio BSFC = Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (per hour) Divide by 60 to get min. Calculate required manifold pressure required to meet the horsepower, or flow target: MAPreq = Manifold Absolute Pressure (psia) required to meet the horsepower target Wa = Airflowactual(lb/min) R = Gas Constant = 639.6 Tm = Intake Manifold Temperature (degrees F) VE = Volumetric Efficiency N = Engine speed (RPM) Vd = engine displacement (Cubic Inches, convert from liters to CI by multiplying by 61.02, ex. 2.0 liters * 61.02 = 122 CI) MAPreq = psia (remember, this is absolute pressure. Subtract atmospheric pressure to get gauge pressure (aka boost). We will assume that there is a 2 psi loss. So to determine the Compressor Discharge Pressure (P2c), 2 psi will be added to the manifold pressure calculated above. P2c = Compressor Discharge Pressure (psia) MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure (psia) ΔPloss = Pressure Loss Between the Compressor and the Manifold (psi) We will need to subtract the 1 psi pressure loss from the ambient pressure to determine the Compressor Inlet Pressure (P1).) P1c = Compressor Inlet Pressure (psia) Pamb = Ambient Air pressure (psia) ΔPloss = Pressure Loss due to Air Filter/Piping (psi) Now we can calculate the Pressure Ratio IIc Engine Volumetric Efficiency. Typical numbers for peak Volumetric Efficiency (VE) range in the 95%-99% for modern 4-valve heads, to 88% - 95% for 2-valve designs. If you have a torque curve for your engine, you can use this to estimate VE at various engine speeds. On a well-tuned engine, the VE will peak at the torque peak, and this number can be used to scale the VE at other engine speeds. A 4-valve engine will typically have higher VE over more of its rev range than a two-valve engine. Intake Manifold Temperature. Compressors with higher efficiency give lower manifold temperatures. Manifold temperatures of intercooled setups are typically 100 - 130 degrees F, while non-intercooled values can reach from 175-300 degrees F. Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC). BSFC describes the fuel flow rate required to generate each horsepower. General values of BSFC for turbocharged gasoline engines range from 0.50 to 0.60 and higher. The units of BSFC are lower BSFC means that the engine requires less fuel to generate a given horsepower. Race fuels and aggressive tuning are required to reach the low end of the BSFC range described above.

Only VZ blocks. MZ's moved on to a MAF, if you wanna tune that you'll have to buy a piggyback.

It's a 12lb slug of aluminum. There's nothing to break! Just don't drop it on your foot.

Front motor mount, then rear. The earlier A/T's have a back-up speed sensor that is mechanical. That's the only thing that spins in the dash board minus the interior fan behind the glove box. I would skip that & check the brakes.

Ours come off with a few simple screws. The difference is the rear cover gaskets must have the upper intake air chamber removed.

Which should read: NOTICE Allowing customers to clean their Throttle Plate, EGR, and Idle valve will result in the loss of both 2-4 hours labor charge over several visists, and parts charges for Idle Valve, EGR valve, EGR Modulator, Vacuum Hoses, Throttle Position Sensor, Intake Cleaning Service, and $1 can of STP cleaner for Fuel Injection Cleaning. Clean it with a carb / tb cleaner & a small brush. I have found Tri-Flow makes a good spray lubricant for post-cleaning. The 1/2 an oz of solvent used in cleaning is not going to hurt an o2 sensor.

I like ramps better for stuff like that. Far quicker, easier & won't damage the car during use like jacking will. Using a jack/stand destroys the stock jacking points quickly & frames on cars today are not meant to jack on, even tho that's where you really should do it. They're easily crushed. How high do you have to get the car to change it? Couple of inches. If you're taking the pans off, The wheels being 2-3" off the ground is about right for me.

Any pre-Oct '96 gasket is prone to blowing which is exactly why the 1mz-fe was covered under the "great recall fiasco". The gasket construction is identical. It's the same one thin layer of steel with a thin layer of asbestos on each side & the "gooey silver crap" sprayed on it to seal as previously used on every other Toyota engine. '96 they added layers. In '98 they simply went to MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) gaskets which simply are awsome! They oughta get well over 500bhp out of those things, or an indefinite amount of mileage (barring the engine ever overheats & breaks the seal - which is easy on metal gaskets). This is also the very reasonwhy it's a bad idea to put the TRD supercharger on a pre '98 1mz-fe! The revised gasket's can't handle them over time & the original gaskets just can't do it period!

Ya, there's a big difference between what you can do with your maximum effort on a 9-12" long ratchet, & what you can do with an extra foot or two of leverage. It's not just putting a normal bolt in where it's snug. 100lb-ft is a lot! That's enough to snap head bolts in half & head bolts are fairly large. (They're large enough to pick the front end of the car up with one, or two if you could rig a way to do it) Case in point... Call me a total !Removed!, but installing my heads the last time I replaced my gaskets - it was impossible for me to generate the 100lb-ft on the bolts I was after on my 3/8" ratchet. That being said, it was only minimal-medium effort at most to do it with a large (2 1/2" long) torque wrench. To generate the amount of force the pulley needs, you really need either an extension on a 1/2" drive ratchet, or a full blown large torque wrench (250lb rated). It's just impossible otherwise. It'd be like trying to take your lug nuts off with the provided 9" long tool. It simply won't happen if the lugs are on snug. Now imagine having to double that amount of force!

Bodyshop, or autoparts store. Half of mine were replaced with large zip-ties. It sounds ghetto, but in actuality, you can pull them tight enough so they hold much closer together than the clips can.

Righty Loosy, Lifty Tighty! hahahahahahahaha You need a 1/2" drive wrench with a a pipe on it for some easy torque multiplication, or a 2-3' long breaker bar (also 1/2" drive). If you can get over 100lb-ft on one that's normally enough. They're not only keyed, but they tighten themself. That's why they may only go on with 140-170lb-ft, but they always take 200-300lb-ft to get off!

Ummmn don't hold me to 1-2mil on the chassie/car. Let's face it... Yankee's have that leet road salt & all that kind of dumb stuff to deal with LoL! For the rest of us, ya 1-2 mill on the majority of the car should be possible. The lifespan of the Camry platform is longer than you'd want to keep one. The lifespan of the better built Windom/ES's is going to wind up being crazy! The best answer to "how long" always winds up being "way longer than anyone would possibly want the car"!