Toysrme

It costs $500, but it's not nearly justified. They're gonna use the same $5 per 4 quarts Dexron III fluid you can buy at walmart to change your fluids. They nearly never do the actual changes in the first place. They just *inspect* fluid levels. Skip the dealer service, go buy your own fluids & such. Then you'll do everything on their 115,000m list for $30-40. Including stuff they don't do. Plugs, PCV valve, differential, coolant flush, A/T fluid, power steering fluid, air filter, brake fluid. Let's face it, for what they charge you for just in parts/consumables alone to do their service/inspections at a Lexus dealer - you could replace everything I just listed AND both your main o2 sensors which, IMHO at 115,000m should be throw away regardless. Or for half the cost, I'm sure you can find an INDY mechanic that wouldn't mind making money for a busy hour's worth work it would take them to do all that. Just get a little pouch, or folder to keep all your recipts in. Ya, the oil posting kinda get's old. It's always "Synthetics are better" VS "It doesn't matter as long as you change it". Both are right. Synthetics ARE better, and it really doesn't matter as long as you change it before deminishing returns sets in.

Group: Members Posts: 2 Joined: 1-January 06 Member No.: 22,534 Car Model:1993 300 You cut a wire, or have un-grounded the thing, or blow a fuse, or shorted the player out. Now you're left with not *trying* to take it out, you have to take it out. COme on it's not hard. Pop the bottom trim off. Pull the vent out - easier to do it by taking the blove box out & pushing it foreward, then unscrew your 4 machine screws... Not else holding it in but 3 connections to the radio stuff, the clock & the A/C controls.

Blow them out anyways. They may be part way blocked & simply cant drain enough as it rains.

They are not password protected. Upgraded your software.

Ya. I love my OXO brushes. The normal brush isn't strong enough to knock most stuff off the car. You have to use a fignernail, or a cloth to get those. They really are soft. You'll know what I'm talking about if you ever get a chance to use one a few times. The thing is probably safer to use any anything else, because you use so much less pressure with it. I was highly concerned about scratching, but after 2-3 years on many, many cars, & reading a few posts about them being OK on Autopia (Back in the day) I can say mine's never left a single scratch. Do yoself a favor & buy the two tire brushes too. It just makes washing so freaking fast if you're in a hurry it's insane. I've virtually quit using my QD sprays. It takes the same amount of time to wash the car, as QD the whole dang thing LoL! Cheaper than the qd spray too lol! To me, blacks just *have* to be polished, then glazled. Next to know-one uses clear coats on black. They're all SSP (Single State Paint). it makes them look much, much better once you build a bit of oily stuff on them like a petrolium based glaze & a carnauba wax.

Zaino is good. Huge cult following. I like Klasse better when it comes to a synthetic wax. The base All-In-One is it's own strong cleaner wax, and it looks different, based on how you apply it. If you layer 2+ coats of Sealant Glaze on it, it can get a deep wet look like most Carnauba waxes that synthetic waxes just can't duplicate. If you stick with AIO, or add a coat, or two of SG, it will be very reflective like a traditional synthetic wax. It's also extremely easy to use following the wipe on, wipe off method. It not only last an amazingly long time on the car (it's an acrylic wax), but you use very, very little of it. IMHO I think you're missing the boat using Zaino on dark colors. Zaino is a reflective wax that looks better on light colors. You really want a Carnauba on dark colors. They give blacks, reds, and blues a very deep, wet look that can still be reflective at certian angles. 1) Strip it all off with some dawn soap. 2) Clay bar it to clean it. 3) Polish it. Meg's Dual Action Cleaner Polish (DACP) 4) One Glaze coat. I like Vanilla Moose. (VM) 5) 2 coats of a high quality Carnauba wax. I'm still in love with Carnauba Moose, but PS21/S100 (Some stuff, S100 is 1/2 the price as PS21 & found in Harley shops) looks identicle. Grab an OXO brush to wash with, and a pair of quality, large Waffle Weave microfiber towels to dry it. Washing/drying will get cut down to a 5-10 min affair you can actually do in the morning. A quality Quick Detailing spray will help wax last if you do that every few days. Quality Microfiber towells to buff with, Terry cloth towells to apply & work on your interior. Might wanna get some good foam applicator pads also. Use 2 part Lexol on your leather. Nothing will get close. Meguiar's 2 part is pretty good & if you just want to clean leather, a woolite + warm water solution is extremely hard to beat. In conclution. If it were me, I'd quit using Zaino on this car, Strip & clean what's on it off & Use a VM+2*CM/PS21 combo.

Buy a used turbo off some i4 turbo. (Yall oughta have zillions of SAAB/VOLVO's using t3's, or mitsu turbo's) Weld up a new exhaust manifold, turbo the SOB. Throw in some form of piggyback to control ignition / fuel & you're fine. SMT6 + extra injector<s>. If you've got a M/T, be ready to throw a better clutch in it, if you have an A/T use synthetic fluids & install an aux. cooler.

The instructions for Body Mechanical are in one of the FSM's I posted I know. 'cause I glanced at the instructions for taking the sunroof out. It's the '93, '97, or '01. I'm not sure which. Maybe more than one, IDK.

lol army get's upset when he drinks. Chill dude. I can vouche he's got the Charger. Never seen a dyno, but I can say it's got a blower large enough so I don't wanna know the parasidic drag LoL! It looks mean.

WoW. SW you really stepping up as of late. Sorry I said you were a mod in the leages of honda-tech. Welcome back man!

Na, you gotta take off the EGR pipe & the brace that you lift the engine out with. That's all i remember off-hand AFA dissassembly to get the upper intake air chamber off.

Eh mine is easy. Takes like 10 min. The biggest thing if you don't have lots of "proven" mechanical ability, or you've never done it before is just to take your time. Physically, nothing about the entire process is hard. I like a Physical difficulty & an Annoying/aggrivating difficulty. It's aggrivating because you have to take stuff off & like leeeeean in the engine bay to get those 4 rear vc bolts. A flexi-shaft is a HUGE help to do the back valve covers. But it's not actually complex, or hard. It's just do it all one step at a time & don't take off more than you have too. I'd say it would take a first timer like an hour or two to actually handle the work with some directions (manual) and basic hand tools.

Take 20psi of air & blow it through the drain holes. Then blow 40psi down them. It'll be good as new! The great news is import makers got smart about sun roofs in the 80's. WHile everyone else was struggling to get seals to work, the Japanese said "screw that. We'll let it like a little bit, but we'll put drain holes under the car. That way even if the seals do go bad, it still wont' leak into the car!". I use to have a picture of them. If you open the sunroof, you'll find two little holes burried in the round corner. Kinda hard to see, but if you run your finger along it you'll feel them.

Seriously tho. Those pre lightened/less expencive 1uz-fe's are insane. Hundreds of thousands of them built, they go used with 150,000-200,000 miles for like $500, and stock they out dyno stock 2jz-gte's, and can run that extra 50-75bhp on the street. They even modified them to be the Toyota powerboat engine. Early 1uz-fe's are craaaaaazy strong. They're not all forged like a bunch of people (Me included) originally thought when the first few story's of their insane power handling capibilites started circulating in the US, but wow. That little Toyota 4.0L 1uz-fe is one of the strongest mass-produced car engine's ever made that about anyone can reasonably buy. Now that people are figuring it out they're becoming bigtime swap motors. The only real problem with the engine is the funky bell-housing. Those can be custom amde by machine shops & there are a small number avalible now. TY SW.

Monarch, I don't mean to pick on you all the time. I just think you're wrong all a lot, but this time, you just don't have any idea what you're talking about. F150's are cheap as *BLEEP*. I know, I have a '99 F150 that's loaded to the gills. It is the cheapest crap in the family. The only good thing about ford trucks is that they ARE cheap as *BLEEP*. Unlike the new pretty trucks that kick domestic truck's !Removed!, the domestics are so cheap, you can beat the hell out of them, then rebuild them for less than tne import trucks do. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7...5703&q=top+gear The 4.6L engine is crappy, the build quality is an f'ing joke. Oh the steering wobble he was showing? That's a good example, my truck's wheel has MUUUUCH more play than that. The brakes are total crap. The entire thing is an example of *BLEEP* poor, cheap !Removed! engineering to the 10th level. "It's rubbish". He couldn't have said it any better.

Either way you pleade, ask the DA, or whatever ADA, or JOTP handles the case if they can keep the ticket from your insurance. in '03 i got one doing 80 in a 60 in the afternoon & then got one written for 90 in a 70. That one got my lisence taken away, but my insurance never went up because i asked them if they would keep the record from them. They both said OK. The FIRST ticket you get if you've not had one in awhile, most insurance companies I know just let it slide. If you've had some rescently like in the last 2 years, ya, expect rates to go up a bit. More so 'cause of your age. Always fight a ticket. it's their responcibility to prove you did anything & you're innocent until proven otherwise. Just make sure before you plead either way to ask them if they can help you out.

Mobile 1 is. Any of the specialty oils.

Not really for the cam seals. When i changed them & the distributor seal on ym engine I haven't had any leaks since. On my distributor I did run just a little ring of rtv around it tho to hold it in place really tight. It wasn't dripping, but I could see a tiny bit of oil stain forming after a couple of weeks when i first installed it. That's most likely due to the o-ring on the distributor being old tho.

Castrol is nasty. If you're concerned about sludge, just do some kind of engine flush every now & again. It's a good idea to get all that gunk out on any engine.

Seriously. If you change the oil on any descent schedule, the all the bearings & rings are gonna be fine. About everything is will just laugh as mileage roll sup.

The reason Auto-rx comes up so much on bob's is because the owner/maker of it posts there. He pimps it out himself a lot. That's not all you can use... Marvel Myster Oil is as old as dirt. Seafoam is great stuff. I'm soooo on a kerosene binge still. Holy crap that stuff cleans hella quick! You get other threads too. The attraction to Auto-RX is that it doesn't do anything in a hurry & the guy is like, right there to answer any possible question you have. I hate the stuff. It's overpriced & doesn't work fast enough. You just keep getting sucked into using it. It aint bob's fault if he wants to stay on the forum, so long as he follows the rules. :whistles: I don't like additives that claim to do things like swell seals, or extend oil life etc. I think the oil companies have that down pat fairly well, tho there is always room for improvement. I think oil/crankcase flushing should be done on a semi-regular basis. I just saw a fairly well maintained 5vz-fe in a 4runner that spent it's life doing 3,000-4,000m dino changes. The sludge along it's valvetrain was god awful. The pistons were nasty too, but that's a different problem hah! :(

Hook it up to a scanner. I forget if it was '95, or '96, but the 1mz-fe kept the old test connectors for a couple of years left over from OBD-I. If you have a normal diagnostics port, you can jump TE1 & E1 still & pull a code like the older engines. Otherwise all you can really do is hook a scanner to DLC3 in the fuse box & pull the codes that way.

1) It happens to every car. I've not experianced any on my '93... Ever... At any speed. 2) Don't kid yourself. All "performance" air filters are a *BLEEP*ing joke. It's nothing more than a scam to get you to pay 3-5x the amount that a normal panal, or normal cone filter costs. You won't see any performance gain at any part. 3) Synthetics are the *BLEEP*z. Always use them. Bobistheoilguy.com for lubrication questions.

Red is pretty much the classic. I made my oil & transmission pan gaskets out of it. I don't like it because after applying, like 10-15 min later you have to re-torque everything evenly. Ultra black is their most oil resistant & you don't need to re-torque it. It also has a slightly higher max temp, but that's out of the range it would ever see on an engine where you have any kind of non-metal seal so the temp doesn't really matter.

Jibby Toyota no longer MAKES well built v8's... The last of the well build v8's died with the end of the 4.0L 1uz-fe in '95. The current 2uz & 3uz's AND I AM SURE the upcoming 4.6L v8 as well ARE CHEAPENED DESIGNS. EXACTLY like every other engine family Toyota is building right now. THE ONLY strong part about the current production v8's is the 2uz-fe's old fashioned iron block, G'ing huge mains, and it's stock piston oil squirters. (Which is just neat) The problem is that almost every high-po import engine in production right now has oil squirters... So it doesn't exactly stand out. Didn't Lextreme have a thread about buying the squirters for like $8-12 a pop? Toyota started engines back in the day by building them ungodly strong... Late M engines, JZ's, VZ v6's, earlier production v8's of the UZ sieres. Toyota designed those in the beginning in one of two ways. 1) Let's go racing baby! 2) We have no *BLEEP*ing idea how badly we've overbuilt these engines compared to what we're doing with them Ughhhhhhhhh. Ya 1uz-fe rods are pretty strong for stock. Just like all those engines I just listed have way strong rods for what they are. Don't forget that GM's new v8 uses Titanium rods from the factory. I've never found an aftermarket/custom supplier of them for under $650 A ROD. If I wanted to run a 200 shot of N2O, the only stock Toyota engine's I can think of off the top of my head that can take that are 7M-GTE, 2JZ-GE/GTE/FSE, 3VZ-FE, 5VZ-FE, 3S-GTE, 1UZ-FE, 2UZ-FE, 1GZ-FE. How many has each domestic maker made over the decades? Much, much more. Does Toyota even make, or use those engines any? FUUUUUCK NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! ROTFLMAO!!!!!! Most of those have been out of major production for 5-10 years now. Nothing let's but part bins for several of them. The only way overbuilt engines Toyota has in production currently are those insanely strong 3RZ-FE's, The 2TZ-FZE's WE DON'T GET, and I'm sure that all 3 GR v6's are overbuilt... For now... We'll find out as warranties run out & people run them. Ya... Two truck engines, an engine nobody on this forum has much access too, and 2 engines that most likely cost $12,000 to buy right now. In conclusion, a good thread has been degraded into a stupid mud slinging contest.