Toysrme

That's not from the transmission AFAIK, Ive been in my transmission a ton. That's from my DIY valve-body modification. Do you see that part in there? I never did!

Or he can just tell us the code & he'll actually get to know what the problem & solutions are ROTFLMAO!

Buy some silicon couplers on ebay, and some pipe & a filter if you want to make an intake. For that matter, you can go to lowes/homedepot & buy black rubber pipe connectors, and pipe to use. Don't like how the pipe looks - spraypaint it whatever color you want. Intake just don't do anything performance wise enough for me to justify spending next to any money at all on them. My current entire AFM relocation + intake at the moment is worth an all up $25.

Welp, next time the light flashes, or you get a check engine light. Open a diagnostic port & jump TE1 & E1. The check engine light will flash the trouble code. Tell us the code, we'll tell you what could be causing it.

Ya, the engine sounds different because the computer (when in diagnostic mode) goes back to pretty well fail safe parameters. Code 32 is a bad air-flow meter for the engine. Specifically it uts out too much voltage for atleast a 1/2 second. I wouldn't worry about that one. Tomorrow morning (or tonight) Open the hood. On the driver's side there are two little black boxes beside the battery on the wall. Open the one closest to the battery. If you look under the top, there is a fuse that says EFI. Pull that EFI fuse out with the little white fuse puller, count to one-I'macutie, and put it back in. Depending on how sensative you are to the car, you may feel it drive around a little bit different, but that's normal - no worries. Tell us what happens after that.

Wives tail. Toyota/Lexus maintenece is nothing more than drain the pan - which doesn't do much as the miles rack up. Flush it. If you really want it to last, install an auxillary cooler too.

Chip Post Toyota Type-II fluid is NOT compatible with Dexron III, and Toyota specifically advises against it in the TT-III, and TT-IV TSB's when those fluids became avalible.

You need to find out if it's an engine, or transmission problem. He's thinking your out a shift solenoid, or shift logic. It sounds ot me like you've either lost shift solenoids - which would give you a flashing O/D light because the ECU would have stored a trouble code, or you're transmission is slipping. If it's slipping, it's destroyed & you need to rebuild it. If it's not slipping, you need to drive it very carefully so you don't completely wear out whatever clutch you're using on whatever gear you have left. Here is the 3vz-fe chart of shift solenoids 1 & 2, VS gear positions & what happens when you drop a solenoid: Looks concieveable to me you've lost the #1 shift solenoid. How many gear changes do you count doing a full throttle accelleration until you hit 70mph?

Synthetic also drastically kicks the few dino blends & the zilions of caster blends in methanol R/C engines. Both 2 and 4 strokes. Flush it out first, just because it's a good thing to do. Then quality synthetic.

Normal. Mine was clean, but I have a killer ATF schedule. Normally I either flush every year, or drain the pan every oil change (I'm with you). If you see black particles, that's the clutch & brake material - that stuff wears, if there's tons of it, ya that's bad. If you see metal, that means you're killing the gears. I'm with MK. Color means crap most of the time. You can have the nastyest looking oil, or ATF & it's perfectly fine, and you can have a nice color, that is just completely shot. Color is just a nice quick refference. But if it smells burnt.... You'll want to hurl if you get a good lung full!

Sorry girl, we can't tell you what's wrong yet 'cause you really haven't told us a problem, or symptom of what's going on! Here's what you do. (And you won't even get a nail dirty!) In the engine bay there is a black plastic box on the passanger side named DIAGNOSTIC. Open the Diagnostic port. Take something metal, (a paperclip, wire, or whatever), and push it in TE1 and E1. This will turn the computer into Diagnostic mode. it will also cause the check engline like to flash on & off-telling you stored codes. It'll most likely flash a: 42 (4 quick, pause, 2 quick, pause) 61 62 63 64 It will flash any codes in order, and repeate them from the beginning. We need to know the, or any code numbers you have. So you don't know anything & there is a good chance you just got screwed. On the other hand you've got something most of us don't have. An unwavering ability to "play" stupid & sexual regardless of what anyone tells you, trap them like a bug, them stomp them when you let them know you actually do know what's going on. My suggestion: 1) Get us the code 2) We'll tell you what's going on, and give a few possibilities of what's causing it 3) Call the mechanic, play extremely dumb & ask them exactly what they did. 4) B-slap the mechanic for !Removed! you around Depending on what's going on, you should be able to drive the car around, but go easily. If a shift solenoid/wiring is bad, you'll be missing gears. That can strain it the engine & transmission from working too hard, or strain it from having to work fast for long periods of time. Ya you can drive it around, just don't drive it hard. Go eaaaaasy. Anyways you're doing now what you need 2 do from now on. You don't *need* to know how a car works... Simply know how to go ask the people that do! From now on, any car problem you have, find a forum online for that vehicle & ask what's going on b4 you let someone do work. (If that is an option)

$100 for the transmission flush, sub $500 for a basic tune up / timing belt / water pump replacement. Sub $600 at most. Pull the dealer's foot out of your back side & shove it back in his mouth. Exactly. Tell the guy he can go F himself.

Start it with a clean slate. Do all possible preventative/scheduled maintenece except belt changes. ASAP flush the transmission, flush the oil (Preff to a quality synthetic - Mobil 1 synthetic + Wallmart = 5 quarts for under $20.) & flush the cooling system. The whole big list has been written so many times. But flush Transmission #1 oil #2 coolant #3. If you're really smart, buy yourself an auxillary, or a large replacement stacked plate cooler for the transmission. If a '99 is like all the other A/T's you need a box of T-bolt fuel/oil hose clamps off ebay, a few feet of good 3/8" fuel/oil hose & the cooler. While not giving you a transmission that will stand forever, > 90% of transmission failures are from old fluid, every time you overheat ATF you half it's lifespan (Consideirng most ATF fluid now is 3 years to never change it ever... You can see that's a huge deal.) & that transmission fluid rises in direct proportion to torque convertor speed when you accellerate. An ATF temp gauge will rise nearly exactly with RPM until the torque convertor locks. Check previous records. Pretty normal oil change intervals & having the timing belt / water pump replaced @ 90,000 miles & atleast one coolant change. I would feel better with 2-3, but that's not the OEM spec for Toyota Red (Tho I feel it should be.)

lexusgurl, sweetie you're reviving a thread from 2003. And yes. You can change anything you want about any part of the car.

Infinity Kappa component's here. I would ditch the stock amp. Those things are hella weak. They're designed to push 5-10-15 watt speakers. eBay your stuff. It's cheaper.

Bad wiring, it's broken, or you didn't clip it in good enough. :)

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?s...=&fsop=1&fsoo=1 Autoparts stores. 88-91 Camry. Replace/re-grease the reay sway bar bushings, and check/replace the sway bar end links. it is alsoa dviseable to replace the dogbone suspension mount. You need to find rims along those specs. FYI 2005 Scion TC = 5*100mm, +45mm offset AFA Tires The famous Miata Tire Size Calculator The cruise control has nothing to di with engine vacuum. It is a large electromechanical arm. The throttle cable goes inside it, the accellorator cable comes out & goes to the throttlebody. Take the cover off it & see what's going on.

Techinfo.Toyota.com or Get the 1994 Camry repair manual.

Uuuuuuupgrraaaaaaaaaade

Um ok the first thing that's wrong, if you're paying for maintenece, never go to a dealer. #2) Most autoparts stores will scan your car for free #3) I don't know, but they have sensors in the thermostat now!? No way LoL! #4) Yes... That is hella excessive. $60 for labor (20-30min to change it, rounding up to th nearest hour) + 20-30 part. #5) There are a billion pieces of maintenece to be done. Change the belt & water pump. Most of the time, go ahead & do the spark plugs, along with the valve cover gaskets & cam/crank seals. But... All you *need* is the tb, pump & accessory belts. Nothing is standard. Dealers don't make money selling cars, that's just candy. They make their money in the service bays.

Yep. Let us know how it goes! My new ultra black valve covers have been doing great, but my lexus isn't a daily driver until I get the new camshafts in it sometime in the next month. For compairison: His '98 1mz-fe front head (Sludge prone) @ 10,000-12,000mile intervals VS my '93 3vz-fe front head @ 5000-7500 mile intervals (At the time of the pic). I deleted, or lost my pics into the valve cover, sorry, but as can be seen, his oil is 100% normal. Mine may have had less taining on the underside of the valve cover, but that's due to the difference in oil distrobution from the cams - it's not indicative of anything.

Eh? Rephrase the question, I don't understand it. You're asking abot why there is oil in the intake? It's because both the PCV & front breather are baffeled from the oil that spins off the cam itnermesh gears & cams themselves, but some oil will always get around the baffling. The oil doesn't really do anything, very little flows & it doesn't tend to build up. It just looks messy. or are you asking why there is a front breather when it has a PCV valve on the rear head?

There isn't a system, the valves simply don't interffere with the pistons at any orientation. The belt snaps, it's gonna destroy the timing belt covers, and possibly a cam sprocket in the process. Killed ym front sprocket...

To make a point, car and driver TV raced a Road Runner VS an Odyssey around a long auto-x track. The Odyssey's FWD, and modern suspension let it win by more than 5 seconds. Either one would be a good choice. Take the better price, the sienna for build quality, or the odyssey b/c it's faster & handles more like a honda.

It's extremely common on Ford's to loose the blower, or the temp knob. The F150 is on atleast it's second temp & blower knobs. Try that. It's extremely common on Ford's to loose the blower, or the temp knob. The F150 is on atleast it's second temp & blower knobs. Try that.