Toysrme

Centerfugally blown C4 Vette VS *Completely* built (around 15-20usd grand) '94 v6 1mz-fe (still 3.0L boosting on 10.2:1 CR!) Camry. GT40/88 @ 12psi (392fwhp - 501bhp) That's not even full boost!?, 4500rpm stall T/C, Fully IPT built transmission. Everything on the car changed, everything about it custom (Tony & his brother own a Custom performance shop in Canada.) The Biggest, Baddest Camry/ES/Windom on the planet. *Bump Updated* Higher quality vid now hosted by Sean's blazing server. (Give it 15min from this post to upload). *Bump Updated* Runs are 0-130mph & 0-124mph. For anyone wondering, The weight should be within a hundred pounds, or so. The Aero cd is the same, with the vette having a smaller frontal section (around 19.4^2ft VS 22.7^2ft) If anyone has ever doubted me that until you hit *insane* power levels - FWD = RWD *when* given the same supporting mods (LSD/differential geometry, suspension geometry). This is a great example of that! :)

Reset the computer, then drive it like you stole it.

Well I would replace the one. The engine may run like !Removed! on those 3 cylinders because the fueling is off. More importantly - for the most part, when that type of sensor is failing, their output makes the engine use more gas than it actually would be using otherwise (Rich). If you have the money to replace the one sensor either way - it's better to do it now than after. AFA the other sensor. Whenever. (This isn't some major undertaking. It's right down there on the front exhaust manifold / exhaust pipe, it bolts, you unclip it & you put the new one in. If the new sensor is gneric <cough you saving money <cough> it won't have a connector on it. No big deal, cut the OLD connector off the OLD sensor & crimp, or soldier it together.) Like... A 10-20 min project. Not complicated, No knowledge of anything actually required. Once it's in, reset the ECU & drive it like you stole it for awhile. ;)

Replace the front bank o2 sensor. http://froogle.google.com/froogle?hl=en&bt...ES300+o2+sensor If you have an extra $70-80, you should replace the rear o2 sensor also.

The powersteering has 2 vacuum hoses. One to the IAC valve, one to the back side (actually passanger side) of the upper intake - both are large. Most people get confused about the extra vacuum port provided on the 3vz-fe's, and first "generation" 1mz-fe. That is also on that side of the same side of the upper intake manifold. It is purely an intake manifold vacuumt esting port. It should be blocked off at all times.

Sure, anythings possible. IDK if any even use a 180amp alt, do they? The most popular thing for the ES/Camry v6 platform is to swap the 130amp highlander alt on. it's a direct fit to all the v6's. (because... well the highlander uses the 1mz-fe lol)

thanks steve.

All of them. They'll let you know a ton of things about your engine you wouldn't know otherwise. The general condition of alot of points. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm is a good quick over-view. But there are a lot of things most places report on not on that list.

Mobil 1 5000/7500 I would change at 5000/7500. Toyota v6's are very easy on oil & analysis on bobs show mobil to be an awesome fit to Toyota v6's in general. Many higher quality oils are doing 7500 miles & coming back with some life left in them. Toyota v6's in general are just not that hard on oil. The synthetics... Honestly I'd flush it, then do synthetic & drive 9,000 - 10,000 miles & send THAT off for analysis. Things like the mobil 1 synthetics are showing life left at 9,000m (Good UAO's & TBN). The last report of mobil 1 synthetic (EP) that I remember had analysis done at 10,000m, then 12,000m & had some life left, but they guy dumped it anyways. So... 5000 / 7500 on a good oil, 10,000+ on synthetic. The simple truth is that... None of us know crap! You'll need to spend your $20-30 on oil analysis & let people that know stuff tell you when to change it!

cgts!

It could. I would clean that, the tb & the IAC valve. Check for vacuum leaks.

^ it does. Most of the airflow comes from the bottom of the front of the car, runs up into the engine bay, thene xits the bottom rear of the engine bay. Relatively little runs out the back, top side of the hood.

Nope. The bearing caps will just re-grind themselves down. The lifter buckets / shims will just make his engine sound like mine. It'll tick like craaaazy. Either the valves hitting the seat more than they should, or the cam lobes hitting the shims. (Not really a performance problem, just something quite annoying to hear all day.)

Easyest way is to run the wiring into the wheel well, take the wheel well cover off & run that through the firewall. Then you can just run the wiring under the edge of the carpet.

Then you need to find a shorter girlfriend that isn't *quite* so excited to ride in the back of a Lexus! Ahhhhhh couldn't help it! Especially the mounts. Some ES's & Camry's do it. Anyone know what it is? Get down there & tighten all the bolts on the calipers.

Cam/Crank timing is off. Set the bottom end to #1 cylinder, intake stroke, tdc. Then set the timing. If you have too (Don't trust the cam gears) Take the valve covers off & use the assembly dots.

It just needs a turbo manifold. :P

I forget. It's just an allen wrench. Most likely 5-7mm. Just go buy a cheap metric set. You need a 7-8mm to get the upper intake manifold off & a 10mm to take the transmission fluid drain off anyways.

I like the covers, etc. I always remove them & keep them removed. The Maxima's cover is sitting in the basement. You'll also notice there is no way to check the transmission fluid level. It's not some new thing. Several OEM's have been covering the things up completely for 5-7 years already. Toyota (Lexus, Scion) is historically the world's greatest copycat. They let everyone else do something first, then they just go in & do it better! JC Whitney, or someone along those lines, has a kit to add a dipstick to a Camry v6 transmission, but not the newest gen yet. Not sure if I would trust it, but eh.

Pre october 1994 are serviceable. In all honesty, the recharge kits, even on ebay, are expencive. ebay right now Approx: Real KYB's are $220. The Gabriel's are $200usd. Completely new KYB struts sell for $289-300usd. For sub-$100, I'd just rather have all new struts. More personally, the sealed struts off a post nov '94-96, along with it's strut mount, which swap. It may ride fractionally different with the strut mount & changed strut, but it's not like anyone rolling a 92-94 would ever know / remember what it drove like new to begin with!. :) To quote the Ultimate Camry FAQ: Sealed VS Serviceable.

Some plugs come pre-gapped. Both NGK & Denso sell pre-gapped plugs for the engine, in every model of plug they sell. They also sell un-gapped plugs that are at the "traditional" .44 plug gap. All of the plugs that are refferanced to the specific engine *are* pre-gapped. If you look your car up, you'll get returned the right plug with a pre-gap.

LoL! He can't help that!!!

Yamaha flat out designed, or their base/previous designs are used in every single Toyota/Lexus/Scion manufactured gasoline engines they've sold for numourous years now. All of the v6's head's dating back to the 2.0L vz-fe were yamaha heads. The UZ heads were not "said" to beyamaha, but their design closely parrallel's, and obviously takes many, many cues from the heads yamaha is "known" to have designed. It wouldn't suprize me if the UZ heads are all Yamaha designs. The ole, "If it looks like a duck, walks like a duck, quacks like a duck... It's a duck." rule.

pffft. Yall got me what the "actual" name is. I call it the "main air hose", "tb to AFM hose", "that damn thing that's always splitting, but only causes a problem at an inoppertune time", and "air intake hose". The "breather hose" is the smaller hose running from the front valve cover breather to the "main air hose". http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEXUS-ES300...sspagenameZWD1V Right this second seems to be the only one on ebay for ES/Camry. Oddly... Normally there are like 3-4 on for each kind of pipe/engine.

A constantly flashing CEL when in diagnostic mode means that everything TOK's. Replace the air hose. You have a vacuum leak.