Toysrme

If it hasn't come back on, ya you just upset a wheel speed sensor. The WSS's tell the TRAC/ABS computer how fast each wheel is rotating. From there it can determine things for ABS, traction control, stability systems... Whatever your car has. What each individual wheel is doing. It's just a little magnetic pick-up sensor (Like most crankshaft, or camshaft position sensors) that is mounted out on the wheel & axle. Because of their exposed position, it's not uncommon on nearly any car with them for them to "go funky" if they've been bumped around, or weather/road junk get's up there. As long as the lights go back off, they've cleared off whatever was giving them problems on their own.

If Lexhol won't fix it. It'll get replaced. :) Good stuff!

Maybe upset a wheel speed sensor. That happens alot in snow/ice/really wet / off-road / hard driving.

Sounds to me like you're on top of it. You've checked spark & compression, got the manual... New cap-rotor-plug. Good stuff. If it continues, I bet the wiring harness on the injector is shot.

Vacuum leak.

Evaporative Emession Control System Vent Control Malfunction. Download the 1997 ES FSM that is stickied at the top. See the Diagnostic pdf & do an advanced search for 446.

I've never heard of that... Don't do that. Somewhere, out there, you're going to melt something. Buy 4ga, or 0ga wire. Run it through the bung in the driver's wheel well, under the wheel well skirt, into the cab, under the carpet, under the rear seat, into the trunk. That's if it's a sub amp. If it's just some little speaker amp, use 10-6ga wiring. You have to use atleast the wire gauge the amp maker recommends. Bigger if it's over-rated, or their smoking crack.

Welcome! Just flash to the newest ECU if it's a problem (the transmission). Otherwise... We just !Removed! about general maintenance stuff. If you do all of yours, barring some blue-moon failure, it'll last far longer than you'll want to keep it & it's a good car. So most people keep them a long time.

Yes, the wires can burn off their soldier points.

Nope, not mine! But the guy that did that has done several "Stealth turbos" in different cars. He lives in san fran.

I don't think there is a timer. It's normally nothing more than however long it takes for the engine to hit (It use to be a minimum of 400rpm) + get a consistent (enough so it can decide where it is in the rotation cycle) crank position & cam position sensors. At some point they begin dumping in fuel & at some later point they fire the plugs. With start-up emessions & all, the OEM's just can't afford to pump fuel in as soon as it turns over & start sparking ASAP like they could along time ago. They gotta wait till they're pretty dang sure if they squirt the fuel, it'll get combusted OK. I don't think there is a problem, but I've never slept with an '06 before. A problem starting is like my F150. They are notorious for having the crank position sensor get dirty, or get loose. Which gives the ECU a hard time to pick-up a consistent signal. That translates into sometimes it make crank in a second, second & a half, and sometimes it'll take 3-4 seconds of turning to crank. Simply because it can't figure out how fast the crankshaft is turning over, so it can't decide when to inject fuel & when to fire the plugs. Domestic trucks are "the gaaay". It's just too bad you can buy a turbo diesel domestic truck for what an import one costs. :'(

I completely agree with dcfish. 25K hybrid is a nice deal. 25K is buying you a drivetrain that, until the battery runs out, is on paper better than the older stock v6's. While missing some things, has better equipment packages than the older cars. Apparently we're never getting clean burning turbo diesel's here for me to modify... So yay hybrids! LoL! Unlike the damned Prius. In a couple of years, they'll be so many f'ing Camry platform i4 hybrids that it won't cost them so much to make & install the hybrid drivetrain. So it could actually wind up paying for itself before you ditch the car. It'll be the OEM version of walking into the junkyard looking for a Civic D, or Toyota S block. You just show them the $120 bucks & they'll know you want either a D, or S engine to bring out. ES > Camry XLE - Camry XLE is a moneypit VS the baseline ES. (Even an Avalon to some extent.) ES VS low-mid tier Camry? Sorry... I don't make 60K+ a year. I'd take the Camry every day of the week & laugh at the depreciation on the ES. As that example shows, ES VS anything short of a Camry XLE isn't even in the same market segment. Big difference in an 18-25,000 market and a 32-38,000 market. I never liked the idea of brand new cars anyways. 1st year depreciation is too hardcore for my savings account.

With a brand new batt, my '93 works 45-60' away in an EMPTY parking lot (Or a striaght, unobstructed shot). Otherwise 10-30'. Range consideration is batt power. Equally as important is what kind of obstructions are around. Like mark said. On a really weak batt, you might get 3-10' from the car. Considering everything & with a descent batt life left. I would say 20-30' is a good, crowded parking lot figure. A couple to a few car rows away is a good average.

Timothy LoL! I aint even read any of the stuff u two were talking about. Chill bro. I'm simply saying that I love "To each, His own". Like TnLex13 told you. No hard feelings. LoL! (This is a pretty blunt forum. So don't immediately take something the wrong way. If someone were wanting to insult you, they'd likely break the forum rules & do so. Then be in trouble.)

Anything can happen, but I doubt it's a timing !Removed! issue during shifting. There is even a special code that will pop up if it tries to !Removed! ignition timing & it's not retarding. (I forget which one it is). Just so we're all clear. 2nd position should engage 1st, or 2nd gear. Depending on which gear it is. L/1st will engage 1st gear & possibly 2nd if there is a shift solenoid malfunction. The shift cable may be good, but maybe the contacts in the switch are bad, giving the ECU a bad signal? Just an idea. Are you positive that you're getting every gear & that the torque convertor is engaging? 16mpg sounds like: 1) no overdrive gear, or no torque convertor lock-up 2) limp mode 3) injecting too much fuel when it shouldn't. i.e. something like a stuck open injector, or cold start injector that isn't turning off. Check the cam timing itself. It can be way farther off than most people give credit for & the engine still run without bucking itself to death. Set the bottom end @ TDC & pope the valve covers (Ya, gotta do the rear too :'( I'd do the front bank first & go back to the rear bank after everything else is exhausted since you said ignitiong timing is OK) & check the cam timing. Compressor was good. That's cool. It had a nice steady build of pressure right? Around 150-160psi+ on every cylinder right? How is the o2 sensor? Put a multi-meter on it & check it's output while you drive around. Should be reading 0.45v. If it's reading higher than say .55 just driving around. You're running really rich. You also get to see if the o2 sensor is causing the problem.

Good write-up. Takes longer with 1 person, you have to be able to keep tabs on the fluid level in the res. Brake fluid is cheeeeap. Pour fresh brake fluid about 1/2 way up a clear container. Put a hose/line from the bleed nipple into the fresh fluid. Then pump it out. That way no air can enter the system while pumping / closing it off & the only thing that get's sucked back up is atleast mostly fresh fluid. :) If you're young & not completely lamed up & can adjust your mirrors, or swing your head under the car to watch for air bubbles, etc. Dot3 fluid. Dot4 fluid if you race.

Do it every 90,000m. Tons of people go 120-150,000 miles, but I don't recommend it. I like ditching the pump with the belt, but you don't have to. Just be sure you're doing good cooling system maintenance. Idler pulies / hydraulic tensioner should probably go every 2-3 changes, or whenever they cause a problem. hah * 1,000 miles 90 180 270 360 450 540 630 etc. I'd probably change the belt next year. Hell change it now while you're thinking about it. Whatever floats your boat.

The average 7.0:1 compression engine makes 130-140psi compression. You're saying the engines are just fine at 130psi... That means you're low-balling a BRAND NEW 7.0:1 compression engine... 1vz-fe 9.6:1 2vz-fe 9.0:1 3vz-e 9.0:1 3vz-fe 9.6:1 4vz-fe 9.6:1 5vz-fe 9.6:1 1mz-fe 10.5:1 2mz-fe 10.8:1 3mz-fe 10.5:1 1gr-fe 10.0:1 2gr-fe 10.8:1 2gr-fse 11.8:1 3gr-fe 10.5:1 3gr-fse 10.5:1 4gr-fse 12.0:1 Last time I checked... No Toyota v6 on that list seems to have a maximum of 7.0:1 compression ratio. Gee, I wonder if 140psi is blown up??? Ya... Something like that. Oh shove the 3vz-e. That is the biggest POS half hacked engineered engine Toyota designed in the last 30 years. It has problems out the wahoo & you act like it's god's gift to every aspect of engine design. What side of the Earth did you fall on to be such a 3vz-e fanboy? Makes since that you are. 130psi is a warped head, or blown head gasket with good rings. Never notice any engine roughness? 130psi on every cylinder ensures nothing more than the fact that it runs equally as crappy on every cylinder. Crap * 6 = a smoothe application of crap.

That guy is pretty steep. You can get 2" mandrel bends that are the same Canadian mild steel pipe @ lowes / home depot for $7 a pop. You really only need two plus an angle cut, or two which is no big deal. The best thing about lowes / home depot, is that you can buy 2 - 2 1/2" mild steel pipe 8-12' long for under $15! It's nearly always outside in the garden centers. As opposed to the 2 1/2' mild steel pipe @ an auto-store which will run about $5 for 2-3'. http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/tabvie...ype=RET&simple= $40 chop saw. Ends next week I do believe. Harbor Freight is waky with their cheap sales.

My favorite words to live by...

I think all we were in agreement to saying was that dead rings @ 100,000m is not common. Not impossible. Do a compression test / cylinder leak down test done. That's all you need to know.

Va-va-va Vacuum leak! Glad it worked out to the best!

Californians deserve it. Dumb install. Not so smart friend. Passes legit CA emessions testing & inspection with a test pipe. Hah.

Headers? Ya you can do custom headers. Save up $800-1200usd for them & don't expect more than about 10bhp average gain unless you're running high power (Like mild n2o / or turbo / super charged). 99% of the time headers get skipped b/c on a near stock normally aspirated Toy-v6 they just don't gain enough power to justify the cost by themselves. (Why would anyone spend $1000 on headers when they could buy a wet n2o kit off ebay for $450-550 & make an easy > 75bhp, or take that $1000 & be well on their way with a turbo / super setup) I don't. I just use a 90* mandrel bend & angle cut the ends of it like I want it. Buy an extra angle & cut out any minor angle adjustments you need from that. (The rule of thumb in the turbo community, is that straight angles cut no more than 7.5* don't really impede flow. So with a bandsaw / chop saw, you could literally not need a bend. Just realize it takes a boatload more welding to do it!) Almost everyone is just cutting the stock flange off & welding a pipe to it. You could also just buy a 3/8-1/4" mild steel plate (DO NOT make any type of exhaust flange out of stainless) & holesaw +drill that to fit. Flex pipe is notoriously expencive. I suggest ebay where you can get any size flex you want for $25-40 shipped. You can also cut the big stock flex section off. Make sure it's in good condition. (I used one of the stock flex sections). Flex isn't good for just easing stress on the headers. It makes installation & remove soooo much easier!!! On some cars it's not, on some it is. On these it is. I remember sean telling me years ago he picked up nice mid-top end after busting his clogged cat out. My cat was not plugged like his, but I got a good noticeable mid-top end gain by getting rid of mine. An easy 5bhp. Like everything for the Lexus/Toyota v6 Camry platforms. There are a boatload of them sold, but no demand in the aftermarket. Bosal makes a replacement y-pipe. I hate the thing because it's just a direct copy of the Toyota piece. Just cheaper!!! Test pipes would be easy to make & sell. Nothing more than 2 flanges & weld a pipe on there. Just know that only the 92-93 3vz-fe's that are non-CA / NY emessions don't need an o2 simulator circuit for the cat. (& 2vz-fe's, but I forget how their cat is laid out) So would cat-back exhausts. (Good luck on shipping those! ;) )

Yes it does.............. These are not 7.0:1 compression engines from 1970...