Toysrme

Offhand, just one accessable from the driver's side wheel well. But it's the dogbone mount (upper torsional mount) that is responcible for fighting the majority of the torque the engine creates, followed by the front mount & shock absorber. (newton's third law. If the crankshaft, etc spin one direction, the engine block wants to spin the opposite, with ane qual amount of force) When they wear out, it feels like the engine & transmission are clunking around when you step on, or off the gas, or the transmission changes gears. It can be sorta hard to tell on these cars. They are damped a ton in the steering, have tons of sound padding & it's more of a "feel" type of thing. I agree with them, I wouldn't go needlessly changing mounts. Unless you just want to drive here & pay me to do it! :D

It's relocated, not bypassed. Tho if you wanted to bypass one, that's just another pair of T's, so it wouldn't bee a big deal. Maybe a check valve if you really wanted to get anal. Most of the pretty modern Toyota engines have an internal bypass that cuts oil flow form going through the oil filter loop at higher engine speeds / oil pressures anyways. And the filters always have that internal bypass too. The extra / bypass filters really cut down on the wear at higher miles, tho. So it seems. Like I said on that oil filter relocation thread. That was just a $2 filter I bought to flush the oil after I rebuilt it from blowing the last headgasket. AFA sludge & the like. The filter doesn't have much to do with it. What you worry about is how long does it take to the oil to hit a hot spot & start building up if it actually frys there. This old thing had no sludge in it. If you just change the oil out, you'll never see it. It's when you neglect them is when it gets really bad.

Dogbone & front mount. Engine mounts are like struts & springs. They wear out gradually & most people don't know it until they're really bad. It's also very hard to inspect the mounts. Since the rubber is normally under light compression, it makes it difficult to see splits in it without taking it out & wrenching on it to expose them. With the engine running, reach over & pull the throttle wide open. If the engine rocks an inch. At the least the dogbone is shot.

Whiteline rear sway bar, poly mounts & end-links for me. ADDCO is a love/hate thing. Some people really like them. Some don't. Especially the front sway bar they sell for then gen4 Camry platform. Toyota undersized the front sway bar, hence both Whiteline & ADDCO make a FSB to balance it back out. About half the people that buy the ADDCO FSB sell it. The good news is they're cheap used LoL! The top end monroe struts are compairable to the OEM KYB-GR2's. The mid grade are what compraiable to what comes on a Caddy. If you're looking for sporty. The first thing you do is ditch the rear sway bar, followed by the front. (on the gen4's i.e. 97-01 From there, struts springs & mounts, or full blown coilovers. Skip strut tower braces. They don't do anything handling wise and cause hood & engine clearance problems.

Ive not encountered this much on these cars. The last time I remember running across one in person, it was an oddball thing. A t100 had a stuck caliper because, as it wound up, during something like a fuel filter change, somebody somewhat pinched one of the steel brake lines. I remember it giving me aweful trouble. I replaced everything, took a 5 min drive after bleeidng it & I could smell a brand new pad starting to heat up. *edit* Took me forever to find the problem... It was up in the engine bay. Sheesh... Looking back, I was lucky to just see it, or I'd still be looking for that one!?

If they're not NGK or Denso, ya. If they are, assuming the engine is ok they'll last the 30-60,000m. I like copper plugs. They're better than platinums with more power. If they stay clean, they have a better spark. They're also cheap! :) Ya man. Always let stores like that ship stuff in from their warehouse. They'll tell you anything!

No idea. Its possible. It's not like the half dozen places making toyota air filters. EM is a huge company.

Ever wanted to know who makes what oil? Here's the who makes what list. If you see any discrepencies, tell me and I'll make corrections. Maker --Products Pay special attention to ExxonMobil, making a lot of oils that do well in Toyota v6's & v8's. Advanced Lubrication Specialties, Inc Advantage Advantage 5000 Getty (some?) Lukoil (some?) CRL L&D Superior Sunoco Amalie Acme Ultraguard Amalie American Eagle Super Duty American XT Premium Crown Super Turbo Elixir Federated Flash Foods Foodtown Guard Heavy Duty “Heavy Duty” Imperial Millennium Pro High Performance Choice Pronto Supreme Rallye RPX Turbo Blend Shop Rite Premium Sprint 500 Premium Super Turbo Xcel U.S. Lubricants Super Heavy Duty Value Tech VIP Xcel XLO Ashland Kubota Tractor Oils Napa Valvoline BP/Castrol Arco Powertech Super Drydene Assuron Chevron/Texaco (all products seem to carry the Chevron or Texaco logos...so there is no confusion here as to what they make) CHS Inc Auto Gold Maxtron Super 12m Superlube Superol Viking Citgo Mystic Conoco-Phillips CircleK Kendall Motorcraft Union 76 Phillips 66 Cross Oil Refining Gard Gardfleet Pure-Flo Xtreme David Weber Oil Co. Gibraltar Powerflo ExxonMobil SuperTech (Walmart; some) ESSO CAT Diesel (EM Mexico) Lubricante Carrefour (EM Mexico) Mopar (EM Mexico; some) Motorcraft (EM Mexico; some) Toyota Genuine(EM Mexico) Nissan (EM Mexico) Tech 2000 (EM Mexico) FL Viscosity Oil Co. Case Tractor/Ag New Holland Tractor/Ag McCollister & Co. Archer Motorlast United United/Hyde Omni Specialty Packaging, Inc. (may not be the actual refiner) Dutch Excell Nuvo O’Reillys Parts Master Pure Guard Pinnacle Oil Co. Admiral Allfleet Allsup’s Casey’s Certified Cogo’s Duke Favorite Markets Fire Star Fleet Pro Gas America Gas City Kum & Go Love’s National On Your Way Sheetz Steel City Thorton’s True North Safety Kleen (including Canada) America’s Choice Autoprix Canada’s Choice Checkered Flag Classic Fast Trac Finish Line Formula A Moto Prix Performance Plus Premium I Safety-Kleen Sinclair Oil Co. Arctic Fire Dura Tec Sinclair Supreme SOPUS (Shell) Quaker State Pennzoil Wolf’s Head J.D. Streett & Co. Streett STP Unilab Warren Oil/Coastal/Unilube 4 Brothers Advance Auto All Star Express Allstar American XT Appco Bradley Plus Carolina Petro Coastal Do-It-Best Duplex Enmark Express Fill-Ups Fred's Gas N Go Genuine Halco Handy Way Itasca Outdoors Jr Food Kohler Krasdale Lubriguard Performance Engineered Price Wise Quality Plus Quality Supreme Red Apple Savers Choice Savings Plus Saxon Saxon Gold Sentry Service Pro Shurtech Trac Valucraft (Autozone) Warren Warren Performance Products (WPP) Accel Kum & Go Super Premium Mag 1 Oasis Market Pilot Premium ProLine (Pep Boys) Spectrum Plus (Sears) Supertech (Walmart; some) Traveller (Tractor Supply)

List of filters and associations, Main Manufacture --Sub- names of Brand filters using the main company to manufacture their filters. If you see a discretion, speak up with back up and I'll change the list. Fram Fram Extra Guard (std) Fram Tough Guard (different media?) Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media) Fram Extended Guard(same as the X2) Mileguard (Jiffy) Honda (although some are alleged to be made by Filtech) Chrysler line up except for the Cummins Penzoil Deffense Canadian Tire Champion Labs Bosch Car and Driver Deutsch Mobil 1 STP SuperTech K&N Valvoline filters Mighty Service Champ Lee AutoZone Value Craft Some AC Delco VW (some) Warner Luberfiner Trust Wix Carquest blue Carquest red Napa Gold Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV) Kralinator (in Canada) ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket) Purolator (Arvin Meritor) Purolator premium plus (nitrile adbv) Purolator Pure One (silicone adbv, different media) Havoline Maxlife Valvoline (some) Group7 Promotive Powerflow Quaker State (less media) Advanced Auto Total Grip. (less media) Pep Boys Pro Line MotorCraft Superflo Denso Toyota Mann+Hummel Mann Volvo Clarcor Baldwin Hastings Amsoil Casite

Bro there are a hundred posts on this all over the internet. Go get the codes read!?

Dude if you can change your own speakers, you can install your own sub & amp. It's easy on the Camry platforms. You run your wire through the stock location into the driver's wheel well, stock location into the cab, under the carpet, under the rear seat, into the trunk. Nothing to it. The stereo quality depends on your relative ear. I always think they're horrible. It's not like listening to an old civic, or P/U, but blah. Cheap paper pioneer speakers, and a weak HU & amp. But like I said, it's all relative. If your ear is ok, doesn't matter. AMSoil is the best period. Mobil1 synthetic is the best you can buy without ordering AMSoil. It's wear rates are phenominal in the Toyota v6's. German Castrol is good. Castrol you normally find is pretty bland. Don't forget the differential & check the CV boots. Thermostat, check o2 sensors, clean the entire upper intake, IAC EGR & throttle body. I would skip the plug wires. It's a good looking car man cgts!

Get the troublecode. Sounds like an intermittant solenoid, or a speed sensor problem.

My rule of thumb, if an HID bulb doesn't cost atleast $60-90usd new (and closer to 90-120 for really good bulbs). They're coming from the bad corners of asia.

4100k

Mine are 6000K philips uliton's

6000K really isn't that blue - it's just whiter once it's warmed up & is a deep purple->light blue as it warms up. Maybe a 6-7K korean bulb get's really blue, but not good bulbs.

6000K

Yes, the thermostat on the 1mz-fe is on the driver's side. Check that 94 Camry repair manual for instructions & such on it.

Werd. Check the fuel pressure, and the residual fuel pressure after it's sat for 5min.

& make sure the hydraulic fan is working. With the engine on, short OP1 & E1 in the diagnostics port to see if the fast turns fast.

memorex cdr's & cdrw's always worked fine in my old stock 6disk trunk changer.

Get a new mechanic.

Which was the exact moment you should have purged your n2o right in his face. Hybrid suv with n2o. hahahahahahaha

Here's my sign

This is ooooooold. A good year, or two. Ya. Mustangs are slow LoL!