Toysrme

I'm not sure how he worded it, but you can't "find" blow-by. Do a compression / leak down test if you're worried about rings. It's time for valve cover gaskets.

No. But you can do it anyways. Unless the old plugs were just shot, you won't really see anything. :'(

CL copy/paste Buy an amp for the 6x9's. The simple fact is you've still got a factory pioneer amp that can't push but 15-20watts max on that channel. By upgrading, you've lost the bad (but sensative / low power requirement) paper speakers & traded them for some that will bearly wake up when the factory amp is maxed out. Most descent 6*9's really want 30-40watt RMS for general playing. Not like, 5-10watts. You an do great sub setups without them costing much & still retain your trunk. Otherwise.... Ditch the 6x9's, cut out the deck & install some *real* midbass drivers. Kicker SMB8's rock. I loved mine. No, there is no high pass filter. You're just not driving the 6x9's. It's a pain... But you can cut the dek out & mount your deck speakers in a small closed, or ported enclosure & they'll sound infinately better. Just do the math on volume & port size if you're going to try a proted enclosure on them.

Walmart is the largest oil change place in the US. Atleast they're not jiffylube! <Insert the "ATF in the brake resivor" story>

Na platinums are just useless now in the parts lineup. 1) Drop the price 50% & you've got a copper plug that sparks better 2) Increase the price 100% and you've got iridium plugs that spark better 3) You're not - but for anyone that's into making power - platinum is icky (they don't handle heat at all)

For just the dogbone you don't have to jack the engine up at all. The dogbone is not weight bearing. It's just there to control torque from accelleration / deccelleration. The front mount yes, put something like a block of wood on a jack & pick the engine up am ich, or use a hoist to pull the engine up.

<insert post where brandon says, "that parts guy is a dumbass" here> I wrote everything you might ever want to know about sparkplugs here http://lextreme.com/v6/viewtopic.php?t=22&...ef4436029e08943 The final breakdown on what I recommend: Cars: Engine: - plug code, part number, pre-set gap Stock VS 1 heat range colder w' stock gap VS 1 heat range colder w' no preset gap (0.0315"). (Where applicable.) 2vz-fe - BCPR6ES-11 6779 0.044 - BCPR7ES-11 1095 0.044 - BCPR7ES 3330 0.0315 3vz-fe - BCPR6ES-11 6779 0.044 - BCPR7ES-11 1095 0.044 - BCPR7ES 3330 0.0315 1mz-fe - BKR6ES-11 5553 0.044 - BKR7ES-11 2387 0.044 3mz-fe - BKR6ES 3783 0.044 - BKR7ES-11 2387 0.044 Trucks: 3vz-e - BKR5ES 2460 0.032 - BKR6ES-11 5553 0.044 5vz-fe - BKR5EKB-11 3967 0.044 - BKR6ES 5553 0.044 - BKR6ES-11 5553 0.044 - BKR6ES 3783 0.015 Then you get into copper VS iridium. Iridium plugs are better. The ceveat is that for the cost of ONE iridum plug, you can change all the spakr plugs to copper, drive around 60,000 miles, then change them again for the cost of one more iridium plug. Platinums are now irrelevant. If you want more expencive than copper plugs, don't be a cheap butt & just go for iridiums. Some of yall paying sub $10 a plug for iridium plugs take note. Those are most likely old style OEM iridium plugs. Not the newer style. ;) Toyota specifies both Denso, and NGK, while every dealer I know of sells NGK. NGK > Denso because it's the same damn thing, but less expencive.

Get under there with a flash light & see where it's coming from.

Multi-meter time. Aftermarket stereo's & AMPS are the #1 cause. If it's an unsealed battery, check the fluid level & always pull the temrinals off regardless of how good they look on the outside.

Ya you're cool jsut doing the dogbone, but if the dogbone is shot, the front mount has grossly accellerated wear. So if you really want 2 do it, grab the front mount too. It's new-izzle's 8th law. "If yo do bone breaks, I'ma jack up yo front mount foo!"

New Camry XLE / hybrid completely decked = bearly > original LS400 + modern updates New ES 350 = > original LS400 + modern updates The simple fact to me is that when your #2 biggest selling PLATFORM (And flagship of sales for all your "companies") hurdles a previous attempt at "making the best car you feel like making". You're in an awesome position. Oh wait... That's exactly hat has happened & Toyota is the #1 auto maker in the world! Screw GM.

A541-E uses Dex III U150-E uses TT-IV The swap over was on the 99 es/Camry/RX/Highlander etc. So no, your car should not be specified for TT-IV. (Or any other TT fluid for that matter). I will say that Toyota/Lexus has a history of swapping the parts bin over early & not *really* telling anybody about it. If that is the case then late model year of '98's could have a U151. I can't tell u exactly when, but based on history of how they do things - probably october/november/december. If you're just curious, you can just look up your chassie code on the internet & see when production of your car was finished. Yes, using the wrong fluid can do that. Each ATF has it's own coeffecient of friction. Which will cause the clutches & brakes to grab harder, or slip more compaired to others. All that aside, if you put dex III in it - you did what you were suppose too. Whoever told you that you have to use synthetic fluid is a moron. (But ya, you should always use synthetic ATF if you can help it. It lasts longer, runs better, and can withstand more temperature before braking down - everything you need in a transmission!).

$60/h is the legit "fair" price for labor. Too bad more & more places are going to $90.

94-96 v6 camry http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?c...ount&category0= Looks like they're sub $55 now!

Wheel speed sensor. If you bump them around a tiny bit they won't pick-up right.

Especially considering the pre shipping price on most of the front mount + dogbone mount sets on ebay are like $60-70!

Hey bra..... Same time next year! LoL!

HBBD!

The pre-filter at the bottom of the tank keeps the trash out of the system - which is why lexus/toyota/scion fuel filters last so long. The fuel pumps are not submerged ever AFAIK. They are located at the very top of the tank, on the underside of a hatch to make access avalible without dropping the tank. (By removing the trunk/back seat).

P0170 is a fuel trim malfunction for the "rear bank aka bank 1 aka right hand bank". Since you're not pulling a fuel trim malfunction for bank 2, I bet it's the rear oxygen sensor. Test/Replace that. & if it tests OK, then check the fuel injectors / spark plugs on that bank. I think it's just the o2 sensor. It's a '95, it's about that time... You can pass emessions with a dead one as long as it's not just *really* dumping fuel in. Which it can't really do just off a ead o2 sensor. If the cat were bad, you'd have a hard time passing emessions, but it can be done, provided you're getting really good combustion. If the cat were bad - you'd get an o2 reading from the *post cat* o2 sensor. Not one before the cat (which is what you have). ;) All roads lead to Rome. Test/replace the o2 sensor on the rear manifold.

What gunk in the tank? The pickup is a pre-filtered baffle at the bottom of the tank. Even if it wasn't filtered - it'd pick up just as much trash either way. It's gonna settle to the bottom regardless of the fluid level. ;) Just fill up when you want & do the math so you know around abouts how far you can go if you get in a pinch.

Depends on the car. The vast majority of them will go a long !Removed! way once they've hit E. The 92-01's have an 18.5 gallon tank - not including the fuel outside of the tank. Most people I've found with ES/Camry's tend to fill at 14-15-16 gallons. So you're looking at, *atleast* another safe 40 miles if you're filling up with 16 gallons. 350-400 miles for most people. Depends on how ya drive. But it's an easy question to answer. Take your average mpg & how many gallons you put in it VS the capacity of the tank.

I forget who it happened too, god love you if you ever run across this post, because I think it was an ES owner. Took his car to jiffylube. They flush the brake fluid with Dexron III ATF. Mornons LoL!

The powersteering system is vacuum assisted. But the vacuum assists is rolled in & out depending on the speed by the ECU & IAC valve. If the wiring to that solenoid, or whatever was chewed up - then it makes since it would have been stuck in "fast driving" where the powersteering tightens up so you're not flying all over the place with the smallest flick of the wrist. Makes since I guess. Good mechanic.

I haven't tallked to him about it in awhile, but the psi I know he was wanting to run months ago - VS that turbo - that's gonna put him 600-700bhp+ if he wants to shoot for it. The engine is as fully built as it can be AFAIK, top to bottom. The only thing I can dream of the top of my head he may not have are piston oil squirters & re-enforcing stock on the rod bearing caps & main cradle - which he probably has. The scaryest part about this car... This has always been his cruising car. Not his racecar LoL! Tony & his brother's stuff are what separates enthusiasts, from proffesionals LoL! (FYI - they own/run a performance shop in Canada) Bump update.