Toysrme

Towing isn't a question of the motor. The motor is the least important aspect of towing something. At the rpm's you tow at, the engine is only using about 30-50bhp anyway. Towing something is about the vehicle itself. It's frame, suspension, supports, and brake system. We simply don't have the frame & supports rated to do it. Everyone on this forum knows our rear suspension by (Regardless of any other single aspect) can't tow. You can bottom it out almost with nothing more than good, heavy audio equipment. Let alone actually putting weight, and other forces onto it! 3500lbs. Ya... It'll move it better than most SUV's can with our v6. The brakes... Will probably stop it without too much fuss. Assuming you have fresh brake fluid & the pads are atleast OEM quality. But that doesn't make it safe to tow that much with the car.

Can it tow it? Yeah. Camry v6's / ES 300's / Camry wagons have bigger brakes than 4runners, almost as much torque (More than the old 3vz-e & 22r-te's) Its not really a question of will it tow it. It'll pull & stop it fine. The question is if the car can handle it. Toyota/Lexus says no. I would bet you bottom out your rear suspension & who knows what that & the extra stress on the uniframe & towing points will do. If it's too much, find the video of the civic being pulled out of a snow bank & it's bumper & part of the rear frame is ripped off the car. :) Over-dramatic I know. I don't know what to tell you. Anyone else ever pulled anything?

You're leaking oil on the exhaust & it's burning.

This may confuse some people. So this is just a pre-emptive explaination for anyone that may not follow. In this post, when I say college... I don't mean a university. A university is a great big assortment of colleges. A college are the individual schools/department at a university. Engineering, arts & science, biz, communications, etc... Welp, then here's the best f'ing advice anyone on here can give you. If you don't like math... Serious, high end math... You do not need to take your major through an engineering college. And at most universities, all the major outright "computer science" degrees come from the engineering college. Every descent engineering college is going to cram atleast cal-III in your throat. Many times, the "compter science / engineering / buisness" type majors/minors will be offered at more than one college! While the engineering one will kill you in studies, taking the buisness colege's equivilant will be almost infinately less higher end math. For example. The differance in UA's engineering college's Computer Science degree. It's a very vigorous study. The biz college's MIS (Management Information Systems) degree is less stressful, gives major league biz study's, is *the* highest paid graduating salery of any degree possible in a 4 year span. When I was there 75% of studens going INTO their junior year have interships. While over 90% had job offers going into their last semister. (Great major, with no end to how far up in a campany you can run.) Keep in mind, the ENG students, while a good college, had a much harder time. Not as broad a range of things they could do to apply their degree, and UA has had the top, or top 5 MIS program in the country for almost 10 years now. The point I just rambled on to make, is look at ever college at your choosen university to see if they have similar majors that might suit you better! Trust me. This happened to a good friend right after I left UA to start working. (I was an MIS major & took a job offer my first semister of my sophmore year, he was a CS major out of the engineering department) He calls me up randomly while struggling trying to take a theoretical mathmatics corse requires for the CS major. (And he passed cal-III with flying colors his freshman year. seesh! Like I said, you will be VERY well advised to have an introduction to calculous clas sin high school. If you can wing that in HS, you'll kill in college.) After talking to him for about 10-15 min, he swaps from CS to MIS. He's about to graduate fat & happy LoL! Anywho.... Don't lock yourself into lines of thinking such as, "I have to take all hard corses to get into a college". It's such total bull! They simply don't care. That can't be said any plainer!? Look at the requirements for the universities you want to enter Meet said requirements without killing yourself, or being so unsociable everyone will hate you & you'll leave college without actually growing as a person! Which is the ENTIRE point to going to school in the first place!!! Think of what you want to do with your life. What general fields. Find ALL majors that can give you useful training in what broad / narrow areas you are intersted in DO NOT have the mindset of "only this college can provide a major for this". Many times this is so incorrect it isn't funny! Finally... Nobody likes a freaking stuck-up. I had a room mate in college that simply couldn't loosen up. I remember him having awesome grades. He was such a prick... Wound up working for me when I was at verizon. He got bounced out of there in two months because he wasn't personable. LoL! Be sure you enjoy high school man. Learn how to develop relationships with people & how to be outgoing. Damn straight man. Do what you love! You won't be happy otherwise & trust me... If you wake up hating what you do, you WILL wake up & say *u** this! Time for a change! To which it's blind luck if what you were doing can be applied to what you will be doing! Guys. Say & think what you want. But the big differance is I have more experiance actually getting into colleges. Today. In the real world. My knolwedge *is* first hand, it *is* extensive, and it *is* bound to be the the most current. That doesn't mean I'm right (I am), but before you just think I'm full of *BLEEP* maybe give some consideration... Toysrme, my friend you need to join us in the academic year of 06-07! Without being insulting (Because god knows I took enough of it from monarch) You're telling me, your university adminission office looked at your transcript & said, "Gee, you had Mr. Delotobody for AP Engrish. Wow! That's impressive." Hell no they didn't son. Quit playing like they did! Like I said... They don't care who you had, they don't care how hard it was. They see their minimum requirements, and place you where you should be. Getting into a university is freaking easy. You know the answer before the test is given. If you aint meeting that requirement. Your !Removed! isn't going! Don't even make me bring up how many students at the vast majority of colleges are taking remedial high school level corses their freshman year b/c their majors don't require something they're not very good at. And god forbid we talk about how many are entering on acedemic probation their first semister...

I think I set the unofficial/official TN record at around 3000-3400 posts in a 9 month span? idk maybe someone outdid that i aint been keeping track! you realize that on most forums, a big mark like 1,000 means you gotta make a !Removed! thread! why do i have the feeling that doesn't pertain to this forum!? i jest! congrats dude!

Bump. 5 quarts of m1 synthetic 5w-20 still looking really good 2,000 miles later. (I know, I know. Remember, I did some transmission valve-body mods, and wound up having to go back in & rewire the shift solenoids, then replace them a month later!?) But... I flogged the pee out of it today down some major backroads for a good hour. Sorting out some shift timing & afew little mods not playing nicely together. I need a new front right tire. Yea! I got my dot4 brake fluid boiling several times. (ugh damned brake fluid. Must be time to change it again! LoL! I can tell it's been 3 years. There must be some moisture in there.) Even with the DIY oil filter relocation mod. The engine is still in one piece, So... IDK how long I'll ride this 5w-20, but I'm proclaiming it safe for old engines. *Provided* they don't already leak with a 30.

Ditto. They make them for ES/Camry's. You MUST put an auxillary cooler on for the transmission. Personally, I would flush the brake fluid with something dot 4, and change the brake pads.

No. Just lots of overtime. I don't know any dealer that wants people racking up overtime. 80K/y is getting into what aviation mechanical turbine tech money. Not car techs afaik.

A 5vzfe would have a good chance at it. A 1mzfe would work. A 3vze probably would, but everything on that motor is crap. I guess the pulley would be ok tho!

Start by bleeding the brakes with some new fluid. In general, Napa (Carquest) Parts are higher quality than any other parts store. The ceveat is that most things are near OEM prices. (I.E. noticeably higher than other store chains). Personally, I would check the vacuum assist & master cylinder if you swear there is no leak & no air in the system. I don't know you, or how long you've driven that car (and Toyota's in general) but make sure it's not in your head also. Non Toyota sports car brakes have built in exponential in their travel so "morons" can properly stop a car without giving people whiplash. If you apply the pedal quickly, it will be as stiff as any sport car. Don't like it, buy a car with brakes that are hard to use in day-to-day driving, and should be found on a Nissan. To review. If the pedal is moving quickly, you will get stiff brakes. That does not mean slam the brakes, or shove the pedal through the firewall. Just a side note I like to throw in when talking about low break pedals. 99% of the time, it's just someone that has 0 experiance in driving a proper brake setup for a road car!!!

Good deal. You've got the right idea tho! What you wanna do is take the upper intake manifold off & clean it, the throttle body, EGr valve & IAC valve. Change the spark plugs while it's off too! (and check the distributor cap& rotor, wires & everything else fancy!)

Ahhhh! The core of it may be dieing. You see that alot, but you do see a thread like that crop up from time 2 time. If you just want my blind guess. :)

Toyota, or an independant mechanic. Not a midas, or Firestone. God those places have the worst people making the least money. Atleast techs @ toyota get about $13 an hour out of college & can make 40K a year after a few years. Pretty much the same for good indy mechanics.

The 92 uses an AFM, not a MAF. They don't get dirty on any metering portion. By cleaning it, you may have destroyed the PCB in the top of it, which would make it, well not work! Try resetting the ECU & plugging it in. Otherwise... eBay / Junkyard time! Be sure to check it with a multimeter.

http://phatg20.net/modules.php?name=Downlo...tit&lid=365 1410 - EGR Valve Position Sensor malfunction. Take the EGR valve off & clean it. (and the IAC valve, and the throttlebody, hell take the entire upper intake manifold off & clean it for a few horsepower, replace the spark plugs...)

A hissing sound will likely be a vacuum leak, or a leak in the pre air sensor intake. AFA the crankshafts being warped. No, they're forged steel. Unless you've torched a bearing, or had a rod go funky, it shouldn't be warped. You sure it's warped, or an optical illusion?

Well, assuming those new speakers are good quality, they'll sound better on an amp, but that's besides the question! :) Most descent to high level amps have high level inputs you can take off speakers. (in you case the 6*9's). It doesn't sound as good, but... If you're not going to change the headunit to something with pre-amp outs, that's the only option.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showpost.p...amp;postcount=3 Valve adjustments are normal, it's just that noone does them.

Age, shape, incorrect size, incorrect tension (dead tensioner).

Im going to be very, very honest with you. Your corse selection in highschool is meanlingless. Unless you simply want the challange. Don't enroll in honors type classes. Be sure that if your intended college corses have higher math (Calc etc., and there is a lot that requires cal that you wouldn't think does) to really pay attention with ALG II, and take an intro to cal. corse in highschool. I've got news for you. No college you could possible want to go to cares what the hell you take in highschool! They don't care who you had, how hard it was, nor about any multipliers. Your *first* day, or two of college orientation, they're going to know all about you they want to know. You'll spend that time taking THEIR apltitude tests. Math, Engrish, Computers any foriegn languages you wish to study, to which point you'll be placed in the level you should be at. They simply don't give a flying *u** about what you did in highschool & that's the complete truth to it. All you need is descent grades (which will be easier to get high grades in normal classes), and good exit/sat/act/state exam testing - whatever your school system uses.

There won't be valve damage. There's nothing to cause damage. Just re-align the cams, and crank to #1 TDC. Install a belt, replacement idler pulley & think about changing the water pump, depending on it's age. (Yes replace the idler pulley, you can just buy a whole big ole kit & repalce all of them.)

Depends on the person. There is nothing physically, nor mentally demanding about doing it. You remove the upper intake manifold & everything associated with it, move the spark plugs, wires & wiring harness sitting on top of it, then 8x 10mm bolts. It's basically taking a spark plug change (how I tell people to do it, and an upper intake manifold cleaning) 1 step farther. A flexable shaft extension greatly helps accessing the firewall parts. I think there are directions floating around here if u can find them. The factory service manual is stickied on this forum. *edit* 8 bolts.

It's a timing belt. The current schedule is 90,000m Personally, I wouldn't, but it's your car. No, there is no warning if any tiiming belt, or chain just breaks on any engine. In this engine's case, no. The engine will simply stop running. You set the timing correctly & put a new belt on if that happens. God I would. People are down right abusive to cooling systems. Flush the coolant, change the thermostat, change the 2 pressure caps while you're at it.

You can seperate the capsule part from the base.

Yes, you basically have a gen 4 Camry, just with better parts, build quality, looks nicer, far better interior/body etc. And it's built in japan only :) I.E. Toyota Windom woo woot! Without going into how the physics work out. The stronger the bar, the less grip that end of the car has. (Hence, the more lateral traction the opposite end of the car has). and vice-versa. Because in almost every FWD car, you are understeering (loosing traction on the front wheels when applying poewr during cornering, or just all the time for almost all factory cars.), you want MORE front traction. A larger rear sway bar will let the back end slide more, while giving the front end more traction. Which is exactly what you want. In the process the body roll is much, much less, while the steering, and tracking usually sharpen somewhat. In the case of the 97-01's, because the front bar is still somewhat too small, you can upgrade those as well to help balance the car. Most manufactureres set cars up to understeer. Loose grip in the front wheels. It's the bad way to go around a corner fast, but if you do loose it, atleast the nose of the car will continue to go in the same direction. (better for newbs) With most rear sway bar upgrades on a FWD car. You will still understeer around most corners hustling, but you can induce oversteer (the back end sliding out, or wanting to spin out) easily enough. A quick flip the the wheel & mild counter-steer, or a flip of the wheel & a shot of gas pedal is all it takes. In any event, instead of just sliding out of a corner, a RSB will take out some body roll, and help neutralize the handling. Without doing an major money / suspension changes. A rear sway bar is *the* first thing to upgrade on any FWD car. It's the biggest change for the money, makes a big change period, and even if you have the money for big mods, it's very high on the mod list of "I have to have that period".