Toysrme

Damn u and Lex at the same time! Werd. It's those eurathane rear bumpers they use. Those things are T U F F tuff. Get under there & check the mounts. I think they're designed to split off in the case of a large, even impact to try to save the bumper. That's what happened that time I was teaching my lil cuz how to do 180's & 360's, and he ran us backwards off the road into a huge ditch. Be put 2 scratches into the plastic (big deal), and broke half the mounts of my bumper. I just got it home, cleaned it all up with alcohol, scuffed the plastic up & used some fiberglass / epoxy to make new mounts. Good as new, no family wasting money. (Cause i think he wa 14 or 15 at the time lol.) If the paint is messe dup in the least, You need to have it serviced while you can. Normally... The FIRST accident you have isn't going to bump your insurance, even when you're a teenager.

Ummmmmm Well. No. But there is a good chance you can swap seats to about anything else Lexus/Toyota makes. I've seen people bolt Celica seats into a Camry, and saw one dude put a pair of racing recaro seats from a Celica into an ES. So You can try other Lexus/Toyotas. Sounds to me like you just want a lower seat. You can always cut the mounting rails off an inch & weld them back together. :) Just a thought.

Probably! The stock stuff is descent. It's all cheap Pioneer, so anything atleast better than low end aftermarket is going to sound better.

I've never heard of anybody doing it either way. (gen 3 or gen 5 to a gen 4). If you wanna pick one up from like a junkyard, go for it! Ya, the gen3 front way bars are huge. They downsized them on the gen4's. :\ SupraMan IDK about end links. They guy I bought mine from years ago included some poly bushings & replacement end-links. (Which is probably why it cost $150-170, instead of $120 to get a bar) I see where he is listing the poly bushings for them seperately from superpro. I would get on toyotanation, and ask them. godfather18, larger anti-sway bars will keep the car from leaning as much during corners. They will also effectively loosen the grip at that end of the car. I.E. All factory FWD cars are set to understeer. As in you go turning hard to the limit of traction, the front tires loose grip & you quit turning. You slide forward in a straight line. A larger rear sway bar will not only make the car feel more solid, quicker in transitioning, and keep the car from leaning as badly while cornering. It will lessen the grip at the back of the car, adding more to the front. This creates a more neutral handling car that will go farther without loosing grip, and if you go past the traction limits, you may actually spin the car out. Which is alot more fun anyway. Basically... Without making the suspension any stiffer, you are adding dynamic spring rates to each wheel. The car feels the same driving around, until you go zipping throguh some corners.

On the rear bank you can do two more things. 1) Tighten the two 14mm nut & bolts holding the y-pipe to the manifold. 2) The EGR pipe is inserted into the exhaust manifold & held there by compression via a huge !Removed! nut (Don't know the size, but it's huge !Removed!) AKA JIC fitting. Tighten the nut to clamp it down alittle more How many manifold nuts did you tighten? There are 6 per manifold. LoL! Ya! It's no doubt a Lexus, and not a Toyota Camry. It's just that when it breaks... We're lucky because we can use most mechanical Camry parts lol. Hell for that matter we *could* start using 4runner, Tacoma, highlander, celica & corolla parts too. Depending what they are. (Me and my Toyota mechanic buddy like to joke ya know... Damn it there is *something* you can swap from a Corolla to an LS430. We'll find it one day, just to *BLEEP* the snobs off LoL!) btw... ES = Camry XLE insurance bracket. I love that stuff every 6 months! And the baseline ES of any year costs only 15% more than the most upscale Camry XLE, is a far superior car in every regard, and holds 1/3 more value over it's entire life! OK so the new ES350 ultra luxury is like 40 grand... (It is in the right pricerange tho for the competition, so no judging from me) bu otherwise, they are killer buys.

Age: 17-31 s*x: F, Prefferably between experianced & !Removed!, real whores not apply Location: It's about the mood, I'm not picky about the location. Couldn't help it lmao!

Nope. No special tools. If you leave the fuel rail & such on the lower manifold, you can actually wiggle the lower manifold off sometimes. If you do take the fuel rails off. I would suggest having a torque wrench on hand. ooooo you getting off lucky!

Maintenace forum.

Is it fuel, or did you blow it up & now you're dumping coolant out of a headgasket? What did you do to the car? You probably broke the distributor cap/rotor, a spark plug, or a wire.

Replace the wheel speed sensor. The control module is fine. I've not seen a Toyota ECU of any kind fail (Without ther ebeing outstanding owner cause. i.e. they played with it) in all my time on the internet, working in a shop. Nor have ever talked to any Toyota mechanic I've ever had that convorsation with. First time for everything... The Independant mechanic so far is doing right... Intermittant singla. Wiring is dead, or the sensor has been bumped. check/replace wiring & its no longer a problem. He fixed that. Code 35: Vehicle speed sensor signal is not input for about 1 sec. while the left front and right rear vehicle speed sensor signals are being checked when the IG switch is turned ON. Go look at pages BR-64, and skip up to BR-84 in the Brake pdf in the FSM. Checking the resistance of the sensor doesn't mean the seansor is good. There is more to a sensor than it's resistance. ;) That just means the coil is good. That doesn't mean it's not broken, misaligned, or the pick-up wheel has been damaged. And quit wanting to waste some much damned money. An ABS ecu is worth like $30 bucks, and sits right behind the glovebox. If you wanna replace it. Pull the glovebox off & replace it for $30, not $250 *BLEEP* son LoL! If you ignore it, you have no ABS function on the car.

Probably just a different manuf's thermostat. The differance there is very minor. The Toyota thermostat begins to open at 179.6*F, that one 172.4*F. If you were trying to fix a prolbem. You'd go straight for the drop in 160*F one in my book LoL! Make sure the whole radiator is circulating coolant. Make sure it isn't clogged with debris, or has any cool spots. There's always the water pump too. Ofcorse... The coolant temps ensor could be malfunctioning & going out of spec aswell. That you can check with an ohm meter & thermometer. 13.5psi to 17.8psi - radiator The cap on the engine is 12.1psi to 16.4psi

Flush the coolant, thermostat, pressure caps & check the radiator. Normally that gets unplugged by the last person that's done a belt change.

Haynes is helpful. It's not a truely weekend project if they heads are warped. Generally. It takes most shops 2-3 days to get around to machining heads. Timewise, it's a weekend project, if they're aight. They probably wont be lol! More like take them off one weekend, go to the shop, get them back in the week, maybe piddle on the car alittlebit & reassemble it the next weekend.

Hose. Or the drain on the back of the block is a nudge open.

Hey! If McElligott might want it for a parts car if it has a manual! LoL! 1) Eh. Glad we're ruling that one out myself. 2) Modern, DOHC engines are brainless to rebuild. Atleast for the most part. FWD means nothing. Only differance is that for home work, if you're gunna pull the transmission, it comes out the top of the engine bay connected to the engine. 3) Sounds like you do! You can buy electric hoists lifts for under $100 at Harbor Freight. (Mine is 880lbs for like $70 on sale?) Mounted on two extra braced floor joists in the basement. YOu can buy an engine picker for less than that too. Keep in mind, Harbor Freight is cheap crap... But how many engine swaps you plan on doing? Pick up, set down, pick up set down & if it breaks afterwards. You've still saved $900. 4) You can do that. There is some moron (No offince to him) in town with a '94 ES 300 trying to sell it in the paper. Blown motor.. Asking $4000. Ya right... Driveable, in bad condition 92-93 ES's go for around $3500 here. In reverse order. Bawahahahahahaha. You're on crack if you think it's *only* gunna do 5,000 miles a year. I think I put 20,000-25,000 miles my first year driving on the 'ole civic. & It aint like my parents didn't keep me on a real short leash either! You might get 2 grand out of it. I've never counted up the general parts cost, but if you parted it out... It'd be worth more than a grand. I mean... $200+ for GOOD headlights. $400-700 for the A/T, differential & axles (If they're not shot). If it's headgaskets... Ya I can tell you about some headgaskets LoL! (It blew them for a reason - overheating.) If the head gaskets are blown & it's in a condition where someone wants to see it run. You're not going to be able to hide it for very long. Specifically, the amount of time it takes for the thermostat to open LoL! It really comes down to what you want. If you don't mind rebuilding it... I'd probably rebuild it. Doesn't sound like the daughter is in desprite need of a car tomorrow. IDK what you bought it for, but you likely wouldn't be losing that much money fixing it & selling it for the $3500-4500 it's worth. (Maybe sell it to someone without the internet for 5 grand. LoL! Stretching I know...) What else are you gunna put your daughter in? The ES is plenty fast enough to show off & get in trouble. (OK... That's not the best areguement ever. But her mom will be able to teach her how to cut people off like crazy.) It's got really good brakes that are still in great standings 15 years later. *Especially* if you spend money on the right pads & rotors. ABS. Driver's air bag. FWD with a soft suspension (Unless she gets on here & just makes daddy want tp do some upgrades) She'll never spin it out without atleast a rear sway bar upgrade. That's for damn sure! Looks good. Rides good. Once they're running well & maintained you can beat the crap out of them. If you can get it reliable, itll run alot longer than you probably want to keep it. Same insurance bracket as the same year Camry... Yup... They're great beginner cars. I mean what else ya gunna do if you don't have a hand-me-down. You can maybe put her in a first year LS400. (Do you *really* think she'll be able to park that LoL!) Try maybe a civic/accord, DSM (Lay off the turbo's & watch for the crankwalk), Maxima/I30. Alotta other things I wouldn't touch with a 10 foot pole. I digress. They're not *hard* to rebuild at all. Takes some time. Unless you just want to go pulling it, or the transmission. The engine block stays in the car while the heads & etc come out. You'll want to find a machinest / engine builder & have him deck the heads flat. Change the water pump. Thermostat & both pressure caps. Check the radiator. Might aswell change the timing belt with the water pump. Change any split hoses. (Vacuum hoses, main air hose) (Come n dad, build her an intake. Only giver her a couple of mental horsepower, but it'll make it roar like a Porsche when she gets on it.) Flush the oil (Where water is, oil isn't), flush the coolant. Drive it for a week & then put the real oil & filter in it. Clean the throttlebody, IAC & EGR valves. Change the plugs, distributor cap & rotors while the upper intake manifold is off. Check the spark plug wires. (Trust me... At $90 for Denso/NGK wires, you just want to check them!) Change the PCV valve. *ick* Maybe change the fuel filter. (Oh ya baby! Now *there's* something that's actually physically hard to do lmao!) Engines are easier to work on today. They make them simpler & more logic friendly. Like... You won't look at the engine & suddenly go... WTF did they do that for? New i4 FWD. Way easier than a old rwd i4. It's all out there up front to do your work on. Transverse v6's... Well... The rear bank is a pain in the !Removed!. But it's really no big deal if you're actually taking the engine apart. It's easier to work on than a longitudnial v8. Ya, I said it... Everything is sorta compact. If you've got big hands like me :whistles: Buy you a pair of really cheap normal gloves for a dollar & cut the fingers off them so you don't scratch your hands. You sound perfectly capible of doing the work & don't sound willing to just pawn it off. So it comes down to, take a shot & buy a JDM engine & do maintenace on it while it's out of the car. Or fix the motor yourself & save a boatload of money. At the cost of your time. I suggest owning short & deep well metric socket sets in 3/8". Probably gunna want 1/2" to deal with the crankshaft bolt. Owning a cordless impact driver makes rebulding the top end go at 10x speed. A pipe to slip on a 1/2" wratchet (and the lug nut wrench), or a 1/2" breaker bar. You'll need a torque wrench too. 10, 12, 14mm sockets. And 19mm. Really that's what the entire car is made out of. 10, 12, 14 and afew 19mm's here & there. (crankshaft, suspension.)

And this time, it's not from that co** su**e* Sean (soundlzrd, not our sean mcelligott) that took abunch of money from me afew years ago. And they're on group buy through September 10th '06. The guy's already done one successful group buy on ToyotaNation, and has started another. Current Group Buy Original thread You want the correct sway bar<s> for your car, AND new end-links, AND the bushings (They're polyuerethane). There is no single handling upgrade that you can do that will increase the handling of the car. There also isn't a cheaper upgrade you can do for the suspension. Obviously... We have Camry suspensions, so you want the corrisponding generation Camry parts. (Gen 3 Camry's come with a large front sway bar. Whiteline says they're big enough factory, so they just make rear sway bars for us rollin gen3's.) Anywho... Just a head's up. It's fairly rare to find Whiteline stuff in the USA, it's a very on/off basis. I love my whiteline rear sway bar... Wouldn't live without it!

Well. Rule of thumb proven wrong. But hey... Apparantly a little blockage was all it took. I'm extremely glad you took it off the road & actually fixed it. Mad props!

Na. Just take afew inches of 5/16" hose & plug them. (like with a plug, or a bolt in the end) Expect the coolant to dump out tho. No big deal... Just coolant.

Good deal! Ready to roll!

I'm as unbiased as they come. Spending 5-6 grand on an ES, Camry XLE, or Maxima is going to make your wife horny. The <eh> BMW will take a big backseat to the three of those. You should also ask yourself a question... Why would your wife want a cheap BMW?

Yup. Probably time for a valve job. My advice is learn to do it yourself, or learn to live with it. ;) Valve jobs are expencive. The good news, is that being an OHC valvetrain, you can typically drive agood while like that without them tearing the cams up. Unlike say a pushrod engine).

Always a possibility. It's also possible it was damaged, or defective upon installation. Didn't we go through a time a year, or two ago where half the people putting autopart store thermostats in were doing it wrong, or getting bad t-stats? Or was that ToyotaNation??? I'd be all over that thermostat if I were you & checking the radiator after that. If that thing hasn't had good coolant changes every couple of years. You'll know it as soon as you drain it, pull the fan off & try to tug it out. Big differance in a 20lb radiator, and a 60lb mass of corrosive sludge & gell.

They fall apart all the time. No big deal. Don't even waste your time pulling the pieces out. It'll find its merry way to a corner & never bother you. These two are all over it LoL!

There are a bunch of rotating & moving things in the engine bay. We'd be guessing. (So far. By your description we know there's a ticking, and it comes fo the enigne bay & is somehow related to the engine. :) ) Take your head (Or a video camera) & stick it in the enigne bay. Triangulate the position of the noise & we'll probably nail it. I highly doubt carbon build-up on the valves, but it could be valves needing adjustment.

Nope, all that has to come off for a rear VCG change is everything associated with the upper intake manifold. The fuel lines & etc don't need to be touched. What they reffer to is the air-assist for the fuel injectors. Our engines have an extra vacuum line that runs frmo the throttlebody/IAC valve into the lower intake manifold to help atomize the fuel coming out of the injector. You don't have to drain the coolant, but the reason they suggest it is that the EGR pipe is coolant cooled under the manifold, then the warm coolant routes to the throttlebody. It'll syphon coolant out for awhile if you don't drain it.