Toysrme

1) That's what I figured. Be sure you get the cams & bottom end aligned to 0*btdc. Remember that the pickups for the ECU are cam driven (In the distributor). Make sure the bottom plastic timing belt cover is not damaged by the timing belt whippping around it. They're like $74.99 @ a Toyota dealer!?!?!?!? 2) No, buy a new gasket. DO NOT use RTV to seal a coolant passage like that. While I personally preffer high quality RTV's to many normal gaskets, RTV should never be used to seal any type of poassageway. It is far too prone to being overapplied & clogging / breaking off in the passage. 3) Probably the rear main seal, a valve cover could be leaking, or a cam seal. 4) That sux. Stock are P205/65 R15. Check out the famous Miata tire size calc.You could concieveably stuff 215/60's on there, but there's absolutely no reason! Without running a 75 shot of n2o on the engine, or bolint on a turbo. You shouldn't need more traction. S just gunna throw the speedo off a hair & 205 VS 215 really is nothing to write home about. :\ AFA what tires. Set a budget. I suggest reading reviews @ the tire rack, just remember to take everything witha grain of salt. 5) Yeah you can replace the boots & re-pack them with grease. The problem is that if it's been driven like that much the CV joints will be irrepruably damaged. Hence the <ticking> noise as you turn & eventually the joint (Axle) will snap. However... If they're not ticking yet, Do it ASAP. No, not really. Transmission fluid levels can be hard to read in general. You know the levle is too high when you see foam on the dipstick, or fluid. Which means it's sucking in air & whipping it in the fluid. Otherwise, it's pretty much like an oil system. You can err alot more on the high side... You err no the low side when it's so low it can't keep the pick-up tube 100% submerged! All that counts is the hot fluid level, on level ground, after being driven around until hot fluid has hit all the valve body & circulated back through afew times. It's critical to keep new fluid in any automatic transmission. If it's not a bright pretty red color, get rid of it. $6 buys 4 quarts of Super-Tech Dexron-III @ wallmart.

Just remember... It's a nice piece of... work. For a nice piece of... !Removed!! Ah, gotta make it through the day right. Look. This is 10x less complicated than any old pushrod wonder. Get use to that idea LoL! The EFI stuff isn't complicated. Look. It's 1980's Toyota engineering. Quit bitching LoL! It's basically copied, then massively upgraded Bosch's L injection. (Yes i'm joking around...) Is the Check engine light on? 1) Spark + Fuel + Compression & all at the right time. It's the same as any CJ. The only differance is the computer decides the ignition & fueling! My immediate thought is alittle different that in your case. The timing belt probably jumped teeth with all the damned coolant dumping on it. The fuel systems on Toyotas are, for the most part, ungodly reliable compaired to anything else you'll ever find. Old, or new. Injectors *almost* never fail. Fuel pumps hardly ever fail & the damned fuel filters generally don't get touched the first time until around 100,000-150,000 miles. That being said, you could be missing spark, or missing fuel. There are some pretty simple ways of testing for fuel. Turn the engine over a few seconds & *crack* the bolt on the cold-start injector. If you get a face full of fuel @ around 25psi. It's got fuel. ;) You can also pull the air filter box top up, turn the key to ON, reach in & push the Air-Flow Meter's (AFM) flap open. That will turn the fuel pump on & you'll hear a rush of fuel to the injectors & the cold-start injector will spray fuel into the manifold. For spark... What can you say. Pull the coil wire off & touch it while baby-doll turns the engine over LoL! Not. using a timing light & just make sure it sparks. No you're not missing a fuel pump relay. ;) It's a re-used fuse box. They also like labling them! :D To change the timing belt / water pump it takes... Patience! If you really wanna know. I'll tell you. I suggest buying a 92-96 Camry Haynes manual, and downloading the factory service manual for a '93 ES 300. it's sticked on the forum. This is the 3vz-fe v6. 2) You're all on it. Replace the timing belt, water pump & acessory belts. Replace the thermostat & both radiator pressure caps. Flush the crap out of the block & radiator. 3) Valve covers are not too big of a deal. The front one is a joke, but it's always the rear one that leaks due to the angle the engine is cocked at (27* off vertical). The best thing to do is pull the entire upper intake manifold off. That way you can easily replace the rear bank spark plugs (DENSO or NGK ONLY), check the plug wires (This is not a domestic. Plug wires can last a hundred K & they could last a million.)DO NOT use generic, or domestic produced plug wires. Denso, NGK (Expect around $100 for a set), or go high performance wires. Vitek, or $250 for magnacores. (FYI, plug wires don't give imports more power. They come with plenty of ignition to begin with. ;) ) Check / Replace the distributor cap & rotor. While the upper manifold is off. Clean out the ports on the inside of it & the lower intake manifold. This iwll give bakc some power & throttle responce from the carbon that cakes in there. Also clean the throttle plate, The Idle Speed Control valve, and the EGR valve. As carbon causes all of the above to stick eventually. 4) I'm not too sure. it sounds like an alignment, or tire problem to me. Generally when the grease around a CV joint leaks out & it's worn. They make a poping sound. The car itself should drive the same until the axle fails. Which is really freaking funny LoL! If you roll the windows down & make afew full lock turns & don't hear <click click click click>. The axles are fine. Still... Chekc the CV joint boots. If they're cracked. replace them & put more grease in before the axles are perminantly damaged. Don't buy replacement CV joints for $50. Buy complete axle half-shafts for $75. ;) 5) Depends on how they're bald. All tires go bald. :) That's why you rotate them! Just a word of the wise incase you don't know... Regardless of what wheels drive any vehicle, if you're only replacing an axle set of tires. The new tires ALWAYS go on the FRONT axle. rwd, fwd, 4*4, awd. It's all the same. Ask any tire company if you don't believe it. ;) 6) Yeah the needles burn out over time. :'( There are afew basic LED swaps you can do so they're visible, you can pay $180 for a small & $200 for a large needle from lexus. Or you can go to http://www.lextech.org/ That's run by a reputable forum member of another forum. Basically... For the same rough cost of Lexus to do one needle, he can do an entire cluster in whatever colors you want. If you want, he can change the OEM Climate control & radio backlighting also to match. 7) You just pull the panels off. It's a pain, but you can do it. Downlaod the stickied 93 FSM. It goes over stuff like that in the body section. 8) The plastic gears are stripped. You can replace it with a Lexus mast, or Buy a Camry mast. The differance is the ES ant is dual position. Down - low - high, the Camry is just down - high. For that matter you can be a pimp & do the little Honda S2000 short ant swap. 9) We don't have remotes. The master keys have a small button on the side that unlock the doors. There are acouple of lexus dealers online that can do keys at a descent price. 10) I've got no idea. LoL! 11) They're nearly imposible to find in a pullapart. But a 92-94 will work. Try ebay, and TAPRecycling.net. 12) No idea. A good bodyshop, or buy another panel. TAPRecycling.net 13) Don't do that. It's a bad idea... Toyota's don't roast wheel bearings, but the drive after the epoxy sets they'll fail. Or you'll need to do something like change an axle. You oughta know murphy's law. You got a CJ! j/k :D 14) STOP DRIVING IT NOW AND FLUSH IT. 90% of transmission failures are from fluid problems. ATF fluid life effectively halves everytime it's overheated. If you don't know how to flush an automatic transmission, take the worse option. Buy two jugs of Dexron III Super-Tech @ Wallmart. Drop the pan, clean it refill the transmission. Shift into all gear positions for a few seconds, drive around the street. Park, shift to all gear positions. Drain the pan, refill, shift to all the positions, drive around the street & call it a day. There is also the transmission's kick-down cable that is connected to the throttle. Once you change the fluid, THEN go back & adjust the cable if need be. You can syphon the powersteering fluid (It's Dexron also), and change the differential fluid (Which is also Dexron) 15) Why the hell you want to go to a shop? LoL This isn't some new fangled engine with all kinds of trickery. It's extremely simple. You need absolutely no electrical, or specialty knowledge beyond, "don't drop a wrench on the battery terminals & don't touch the exhaust manifolds". I'm sure that applies to the old 57 CJ. Besides... *Mechanically* you own a Camry. Mechinical repairs are cheap. Anyways... We're all joking. But don't be some ornary old man just because there's not a carb on it.

Gimmik. The only paint protection that works is actually installing one of those plastic films on them. Which are awesome. :) justin97 black is ups & downs. I've had nothing but black cars. There's just not a better color to buy. :D The bad news about black is yeah, you generally never get a clear coat over black, so it will scratch up alittle quicker. It also shows dust earlier than a light color, or a tan. On the flip side black: Does NOT fade Is The easyest color to match when repairing A TOTAL newbie can repaint 90% his own sratches (not gouges) using a toothpick, 1500 wet sand paper & a buffer, or orbital polisher using a cutting pad once shown how to do it. About black paint gathering dust very quickly. It doesn't gather the dust. It shows the dust. What gathers dust is the wax the person is using. Many waxes acroos the quality board are very bad to attract dust. Souveran is a high end wax that does look good (not nearly as good as newer carnauba's), but it is freaking notorious for attracting dust. If you're getting alot of dust & there isn't a reasonable explination for it (non paved road / dust factory nearby). You should ditch what you're currently using. For non-dust catching I would probably go the Klasse route. It's an acrylic wax. About nothing lasts longer & if you coat the sealant/glaze multiple times, it'll look wet like a good carnauba wax. I would suggest that.

My words of stupidity are, "Never touch a Toyota/Lexus/Scion ECU. I've never seen one fail unless the user did it". It's like this. The ECU supplys the AFM & TPS with roughly 5v (VC). (Just so it always knows what the starting voltage is regardless of the system.) The TPS is just a pot. The plate spins the pot & the resisitance changes -> the voltage the ECU sees coming back from the pot changes (VTA signal). Now if it stopped there, they'd go out of calibration all the time. What Toyota did was take & add another output (IDL) to it where if the swing arm is in the general range of an idle / closed throttle. It sends a signal to the ECU. The ECU takes that signal & basically uses it as a starting point for throttle position. If you check the VTA signal while the car is just turned ON (not running). It shoul start at 0v & swing up to around 5v. It won't be exactly that, just as long as it starts at next 2 nothing & goes pretty close to 5v you're fine. The IDL voltage should trip quickly if you open the throttle.

You must kill the mold. Once the mold has been killed, then install a filter. Do not filter it before you kill the mold. breathing moldy air poses health risks, and installing a filter only masks the original problem. Which will continue to get worse. There have been people talking aobut it all over the internet. From special killers to dousing the blower & vent pickups with a can of Lysol. There are ways to do it.

I don't really see how that can happen? I'm at a loss.

The throttle cable is holding the throttle plate open, or it's dirty & sticking open. Idles are non-adjustable.

10mm hex. That's for a 3vz-fe, but the 94-96 1mz-fe intake manifolds are identical.

For North America: Camry: 89-91 2vz-fe 92-93 3vz-fe 94-96 188bhp 97-02 194bhp 03-02 210bhp vvt-i 04-05 3mz-fe AND 1mz-fe (Produced at the same time, not staggered) Avalon: 95-97 Avalon 194bhp 97-99 Avalon 200bhp 00-04 Avalon 210bhp vvt-i 05+ Avalon 2gr-fe Solara: 99-03 200bhp 04-07(?) 3mz-fe Highlander: 01-03 210bhp vvt-i 04-07(?) 3mz-fe RX300: 97 200bhp 98-03 210bhp vvt-i RX330: 04-07 3mz-fe RX350: 07+ 2gr-fe Sienna: (97)98-00 194bhp 01-03 210bhp vvt-i 04-06 3mz-fe 07+ 2gr-fe ES250: 89-91 2vz-fe ES 300: 92-93 3vz-fe 94-96 188bhp 97-98 200bhp 99-02 210bhp vvt-i ES330: 03-06 3mz-fe ES350: 07+ 2gr-fe 4runner: 88-95 3vz-e 96-03 5vz-fe 04+ 1gr-fe Pick-up/T100: 88-95 3vz-e Tacoma: 95-04 5vz-fe 05+ 1gr-fe Tundra: 00-04 5vz-fe 05+ 1gr-fe That's every v6 Toyota I can think of off-hand.

IDK. I think most people are more inclined to go grab like an old kicker CompVR & swap that in, or simply ditch the little thing & put som real subs in there.

What? Don't look at me. I know what it is; not how to buy a new one LoL!

For the time being he's been able to find internet cafe's so its really good to randomly get to talk to him. Soon he'll be off to an area with no net, no phone, no nothing. :\ He's doing fine. Lost a buddy a few days ago, that's pretty rough. Here's two pictures he sent me. The first is a chaplen, himself, and the assistant chaplen. That's about it... He misses everybody.

The timing is fine. The reason they give such a broad range is that the ignition timing is also varried to help stabalize the idle. The reason the engines all rev when they enter diagnostics mode is because the ECU opens the idle speed control valve (Of whatever type) to maximum open & then settles it back down. Which lets the technitian know it's not broken without having to play with it. All main sensors on any management system I can name run off a roughly 5v, which is sourced from whatever the ECU is. (The ECU's do this because they can monitor & compensate for the small differances in the supply that would otherwise throw off all forms of sensors. TPS, MAF/AFM/MAP sensors of all kinds, etc.) The TPS in your case does run 5v from the ECU. Make sure your're checking it to ground. It should be *close* to 0v @ idle & *about* 5v @ wide open throttle. If not, make sure the cables let it close all the way, and that the TPS sensor is in adjustment. While it comes up fairly rarely on the Lexus/Camry forums, all of the older school Toyota/Lexus TPS's are pretty bad to go out of adjustment at some time. They just don't normally cause any sort of problem that would be obviously unless you drove a good & bad one back to back. AFA the code you pulled, nope you got it right. TPS's IDL, A/C & Neutral Start Switch.

IDK, sounds close to right. The 2vz-fe is a good little engine, but it's not very advanced. You can try the o2 sensor. Fuel Economy.gov lists: MPG (city) 18 MPG (highway) 24 MPG (combined) 21 There's really not too many 250's around. A gen2 v6 Camry owner might be able to confirm that's about right. They also get a relatively huge power boost from a set of custom headers. That cross-over pipe on the 2vz-fe is just the worst thing ever unless you plan on slinging a turbo up there lol!

I still don't believe in sludge, and I've seen them in person torn apart. Engines sludge because the owner didn't change the oil enough. Any engine will do it. IMO if there were a sludge issue, you'd see hundreds of changes. Not afew here & there. AFA being non-interference, I think so. The valve lift didn't increase any (It's only .320"). They're listed on gates as being int tho. If that engine had problems, we wouldn't be replcing 3s-gte's with vvt-i 1mz-fe's in MR2's so quickly now. ;) Don't be scared of it. Just change the f'ing oil on a semi-regular basis LoL!

Power Steering vacuum assist.It sorces vacuum from the intake manifold (In the picture). If you broke it, you'll probably notice the steering feels different.

I see no reason for quality to drop from assembly as long as they're under maximum capacity. Now if they try to stuggle out 600,000 camry's next year without expanding the plants. Yeah, maybe it'd be time to go with a mazda, or something.

IDk man check the repair manual. http://lextreme.com/v6/viewtopic.php?t=22&...440744a73e7bf8f Seems like they all run .44 stock.

Maybe. Check the mounts & check the fluid for the tranny.

The '94 1mzfe is tied for the worlds first OBDII compliant engine.

I'm down with fuel pressure.

If the bulbs & fuses are OK. Then a relay, wiring, or switch is gone.

It has a lot of barganing potential because of what it is. It's nothing more than a generic low quality synthetic wax that will completely wear off the paint in 3-4 months. $5 worth of product, 10-15 min worth of labor, and most dealerships sell such products at $500-$1000. The same goes for the leather. It's nothing more than a quick application of a conditioner. It's one of the oldest tricks in the book to make an obviously phenominal profit. No dealer level paint sealer is worth anything. A wax by any other name is still a wax. Dealers of all OEM's have been pulling the paint sealing scheme for decades. It's a rip-off. There is no way to "seal" paint. The only way to do that would be buying one of the protection films from a company like 3M, and having it applied. Clear bra's to keep rocks from chipping the front surfaces of the car. It is a rip-off, and it is a money making scheme. Better, would be learning how to care for your paint in the first place. (Autopia.org) For long-term applications, you can't beat Klasse. It was the first, and only one of a handful of acrylic based waxes. It doesn't just look great once the sealant/glaze is put on the second time (Akin to a good wet, deep carnauba wax, unlike reflective synthetic waxes). It is a very quick process, and will bead water for months. Lexol can't be beat for a leather claener, and conditioner. (It is not a Lexus product, don't get confused.) Buy the cleaner & conditioner in 3L jugs online. That should last for years. To reiderate. If there were any way on Earth to seal paint, it would be done by every manufacturer, at the assembly line. Not by dealers for a few dollars worth of wax... Its your money, but if you bite into it, you are getting ripped off huge.

Toyota already passed GM in domestic car sales this summer. The Camry is the best selling car in the use 8 of the alst 9 years, aeraging 400-430,000 cars a year. They've already increased 2007 Camry production to 450,000 units. Keep in mind... The Camry came out in March. They're missing months of lead time. Those things are selling like hotcakes. Toyota has doubled the order of Camry's produced on the Subaru line in Indiana. Production capacity is projected to be north of 500,000 units, and the Camry is slated to break 450,000 car sales in one year for the first time since the Impala did it in 1978. Truck sales are 50,000 units under the projection tho. :(

No idea what you're talking about. I've never over-stated anything in my life.