slstsang

just got a rebuilt one for 65 bucks. that's the cheapest way to go. installation is easy with hand tools. make sure you have a pan for all the oil. also after you install the hose, make sure you suspend the car and turn the wheels left to right a hundred times for all the air to leak out before you put the cap back on.

i will be importing my 92 SC300 to Canada, Since it is mandatory for all cars to have daytime running lights, can i do this myself? anyone done it before? I know you can just turn on the headlights, but the canadians are stricter than that, so please spare me the jokes!

From the pics, they looked real good, fit tight like a glove ebay Any other alternatives? affordable and looks nice and seat right?

if you're handy, you can get the bulbs from advance auto parts, take the cluster out and replace the bulbs yourself. sounds like you need a new set of struts for your ride. possibly cv joint / shaft.

try ebay

when you press the button, does the motor work and respond with some sound? if so then you'll need to replace the window regulator. if not you'll need to replace both the window motor and regulator. it is easy do it yourself work. i did a lot of these in college, i had a nissan maxima, they were known for window regulators failing. the plastic part broke and the whole thing fail, the new ones have better designs now. there is no sound so that means i have to replace both motor and regulator? i am thinking it might be a wiring problem since the window still goes down. How do you know if the window still goes down? do you push your window up and then push the button down?

I just recently replaced some bulbs in my cluster, i only replaced the rmp and speed lights, my other lights were fine. they were all the same voltage. there is no significance in the bulb holders color. i think the dealership will charge you for the whole cluster, they won't sell you just the odometer part. your best bet is get one from a junkyard. the needles are too expensive to replace, the cheapest fix is paint it with glow in the dark / florencent paint. then get those small LED lights that plug in your dash to light the cluster area. use the search function and look for remove needle instruction.

I'm curious about this. Was the radiator, as Toysrme suggested, heavy and encrusted? Did you flush the radiator with water when you drained it? Did you flush it with a radiator flush chemical? Did you replace the hoses when you changed the waterpump? I'm just curious about the symptoms that lead you the the radiator as the culprit, and what you tried before you got to the replacement option. Thanks, JM My radiator was not heavy, near the upper hose opening had some "gel" like stuff, whitish / red. i did flush the radiator with my garden hose for a long time. water flow out fine. i didnot use a flush chemical. I did replace the hose when i changed the waterpump, i also changed the thermostat. The only "sign" of clogging is, after i run the car for a while, i place my hand near the fan, and it was blowing cool, normally, it should be hot. and there are parts that are cool and some are hot, that means the cool area was clogged. hope this helps.

thanks guys for the help, i changed the radiator and now it runs fine. one tip is remember to get a lexus radiator cap . especially if you're using aftermarket radiator for 92 es300. you'll have 2 radiator cap running in the same system. i know. it's weird.

when you press the button, does the motor work and respond with some sound? if so then you'll need to replace the window regulator. if not you'll need to replace both the window motor and regulator. it is easy do it yourself work. i did a lot of these in college, i had a nissan maxima, they were known for window regulators failing. the plastic part broke and the whole thing fail, the new ones have better designs now.

OK, i got the right radiator, now the radiator clamps are too long, so how should i fasten the radiator on the car? buy new clamps? suggestion anyone?

I got a radiator from advance auto parts this morning, it has a radiator cap on top. My question is, since our OEM radiator does not have a cap on top, the cap is near the engine block. Can i still use this radiator? (meaning running 2 caps?) If not where can i get one for a cheap price? any recommendation?

92

So i just ordered a new radiator. It has the option on ordering one with or without air conditioning. the advance auto parts guy said the difference is the size. there's no extra add on on the radiator on it. is that true? my next question is, there isa dryer near the radiator, do i need to vaccum the coolant out before i remove the old radiator? I checked the haynes manuel and it doesn't say anything about evacuating the coolant before instalation of a new radiator. has anyone install their own radiator before? i've got a 92 es300

that is so weird, everything was fine a few days ago when i drive around, after i changed the waterpump and thermostat and now it cloggs all of a sudden? is that normal? or am i doing something wrong? none of the radiator is warm at all. so is the official diagnosis a clogged radiator? everyone agree?