Toysrme

Nrsales2@aol.com hselz33@aol.com mk33mk33@aol.com mk33mk33@ aol.com <- Note his incorrectly faked fake AOL email address Same person, always claims to be in the UK for his sister's wedding, and that the item is being held with the shipping agent. They simply watch bidding lists & send a fake ebay Second Chance Offer after bidding. Wants payments via Western Union. Remember that all second chance offers come from ebay. Not from elsewhere... Common points: Anne Roessler 112 George Road Oxford, OK1 2BO United Kingdom Julia Fisher 112 George Road Oxford, OK1 2BO Uninted Kingdom Adam & Clark, Inc. Structural Engineer Department Of Construction Consulting Please feel free to add to the list. Remember kids... It takes 10 seconds on google to learn anything you need to know! eBay Fraud

It's not bad. Just move everything out of the way & take the opportunity to flush the coolant out of the engine & change the thermostat & pressure caps. If it still weighs a ton after you drain the coolant - it's got gelled coolant in it.

No problem. It's not rpm that determines it, it's engine load. So don't worry if you're use to the newest v6/tranny combinations being 500rpm or so lower than ours. After a point. The more you gear them down, the bigger the load on the engine, the more fuel it'll use anyways. It's a balance. If aint probably aint loosing 1-2 mpg by not running lower.

Why don't you do the math yourself??? Come on bro, there's like several calculators on the first page of google lol! 2000rpm in 4th with the torque convertor locked = 52.54139908899227mph 2500rpm in 4th with the torque convertor locked = 65.67674886124034mph 6750rpm in 4th with the torque convertor locked = 177.3272219253489mph 7100rpm in 4th with the torque convertor locked = 186.52196676592257mph You sure do drive pretty damn slow!

Well, they're not the SMB8 mid-drivers I had before, but they'll wind up fine I'm sure. Especially considering I got them for $24.99. :)

No pics, digicam = pwned so don't ask. So I sold off all my audio to fund moving this spring & that never panned out LoL! So the Lex has been audio=less for the most part. 2x 2004 Kicker 10" L7's, JBL 1200.1 in sealed boxes Kicker SMB8's cut into the rear deck powered by some hobo 150w amp 6 1/2" Infinity kappa components 3 1/2" Infinity kappa 2-ways stuffed into the dash boo-hoo, oh well! So I snagged some Kicker KS60's NIB for $32 shipped for my little cousin's Z71. They sounded real nice in such a small cab & I wound up getting bit by the bug again. *BLEEP* components. I aint going to that cost & trouble anymore in this car... The stock locations lend themselves perfectly fine for sound-staging with the dash speakers reflecting straight off the front windshield. Bought myself a pair of Polk DP690 6*9's & Polk DB650's for the doors. Looking for some halfway descent 240-300w 4 channel amp to drive them. Now I remember when I did the kappa dash speakers I had to use a hole-saw to get them to fit well & commented to myself nothing larger would fit, but I'm really wanting to rip the dash up & trying to stuff some 5 1/4" Polks in there too... hmmmmmmmmm Eh... Atleast I have some sound now!

You're digging for gold man; this post is old. And you're on the ungodly high end for an ES250 so be really really happy~! It should be getting about 18mpg in the city & no more than 24mpg on the highway at 65mph. And that's in really, really, really original condition.

Change that & doa compression / leak-down test on a warm engine. That'll tell you the condition of the rings. You could just have a quickly leaking rear valve cover gasket.

The alt has nothing to do with that.

The '01 manual would be closer for you. The mid-generationn update was 99-00. (Tho probably 85%+ of the 97 manual would be fine.)

What happened to the $30,000 Lexus ES. Seemed like a fair price but 40K is way too much for what they offer. The sales pricing from the 1992 300+ has always been around 32-34k on the bottom of the line base price that NOBODY buys. For years the Camry XLE's trim up to, or almost to base ES pricing, Avalon's mid-grade about 30K. You looking at the wrong cars bro LoL! Here's every "signifigant" changed / introduced year of ES sales facts, published by Lexus. Trimmed as closely to today's 2006 ES 350 + the premium package option as possible with each year's published options, or packages. The first number is the MSRP Pricing in USD, Sales only for USA. The second number is the number of total sales for that year in the USA. The third number is adjusted to inflation in 2005 money using an online calculator. Bolt text indicates a mid-generation update. Bold + underlined = a completely new generation. 1990: $24,750, 19,534 sold, $36811.62 1991: $25,000, 17,942, $35278.42 1992: $29,950, 37,886, $40560.03 1993: $31,930, 40,678, $41982.00 1994: $34,270, 37,010, $43746.28 1995: $35,180, 38,225, $43769.89 1996: $36,195, 40,375, $45032.72, $43934.37 1997: $34,395, 58,494, $40533.48 1998: $35,285, 49,989, $40887.23 1999: $35,865, 45,665, $40904.84 2000: $35,850, 37,960, $39812.79 2001: $37,100, 35,030, $40235.31 2002: $35,480, 69,670, $37872.45 2003: $35,620, 60,993, $37423.12 2004: $34,210, 69,976, $37101.08 2005: $34,545, 79,170 So the comment of "They need to make them around $30,000" is not thinking. The original ES250's MSRP is more than $30,000 in today's money. If you notice, the 1992 introduction of the ES 300, with its huge changes got damned expencive & It was worth it! (The gen3 platform is what took Camry paltform sales through the roof & really cemented them). Then the 97's rolled along with the 4gen Camry. Cleaned & tweaked gen3 up some & the ES's to the present have become feature loaden for the money you're actually paying. They've always been great price / valve VS their competition in the more Luxury end of "Entry level Sport Luxury Sedan", but they've only been getting more astoundingly better with the last 10 years. I like how evenly the amount of cars grows with each increasing generation. It shows the platform itself is *extremely* successful. The ES 350 seems to be continuing that trend, equally 02-05 sales in just a hair over 8 months of sales! Lexus/Toyota are smart. They probably realized long ago that if they jsut keep making small, constant efforts to improve the Camry platform. They'll always sell large numbers of nearly anything built of that platform. Especially Camry / ES's. They'll always be a market for this kind if car platform, aslong as they don't just run it nto the ground. (Which they haven't since the early 1980s! Which is a great track record!!!) So $30 grand? Give me a break LoL! Go buy a Camry XLE. That's what $30 grand buys you in Today's money, even way back when.

It has been confirmed! All Toyota v6's STILL use the same bolt pattern! The 150amp 3mz-fe Highlander alternator is a direct swap. The plug must be slightly re-wired, but who cares!

The first half of that generation didn't have those. There is nothing other than the mechanical action heard when you lock/unlock the doors. 30 seconds after the doors are locked, the alarm arms.

When I said 1957, I simply meant it as a metaphore to, "way back in the day when oils were god aweful, engines were not machined as closely, asembled as well, or for all intensive purposes engineered worth a crap compaired to more rescent times". The numbers tell you the rough viscosity of a liquid. Barring any technical explinations you probably don't want to know (Google if you do), viscosity is the measure of the resistance of a liquid to change its form. For our applications, it means how easily will it flow down a pipe. Lower is faster, higher is slower. Which generally directly corrilates to thinner VS thicker. 5w-30 would be a 5w when cold, a 30 weight when warm 30 would just be 30 weight most of the time 50 would be really damned thick LoL! For our applications, it's too thick. It's not even recommended. The farthest Toyota would go on the engine is 10w-40, and even then, if you're under 110*F, or above -20*F 5w-30 is still most currently recommended above anything else. Minus the newer engines that come with 5w-20, or 0w-20 factory. But it's your car man, aint anybody going to stop you. If you want to see what kinda differance it'll make, I'll tell you what we'll do. You keep track of the mileage on the 5w-50 you've got. I'll mail you my gtech pro/comp if you'll take some tests of it & mail it back. That'll tell us roughly the amount of power you're getting down without you spending $180 for two trips to a dyno. From there; change your oil to 5w-30, or 5w-20. Keep track of the mileage & we'll do the gtech over again. Then you'll know the economy & power differance between the oil weights. In general, the lighter the oil, the more power you'll make & the more economical it is. As far as damaging the enigne, no. The easy case to make would be you're damaging it from using too thick a fluid. The medium case would be that since the engine wasn't originally meant for 5w-20, you may not want to run 5w-20 even tho they have cleared all of the v6's they've ever made OK to use 5w-20. The easyest case would be that 5w-30 is the best oil to use since that's what Toyota designed it for, has recommended for all the v6's almost regardless of where they're operated & that's what Toyota brand oil (Mobil1) has been as long as anyone I know can remember. :) It's like this. It went down to 10w-40 along time ago when I was a bitty boy. Then it went down to 10w-30. Then 5w-30 & now everyone & their brother is, or has begun going with 5w-20 or lighter. It's a combination of that automakers needing / wanting more economy & power across their product lines. (In most cases, governments forcing them to do so.), and the oils simply being better than they ever use to be. Now we have high grade dino oils, and more avalible / less costly good synthetic oils. But just to reiderate. I honestly don't care if you drop ATF fluid in there, or not. It's your car. ;) Aslong as it doesn't blow up, or wear abnormally fast. There is no wrong answer, just better answers. :)

The jerkyness isn't the programming. The transmission not shifting is the programming. If it's not shifting flash it. if it is shifting, check the engine mounts. Especially the lateral one.

50 weight? WTF this sin't 1957. LoL! j/k The engine family is now rated for 5w-20 up to 110*F Florida aint that *BLEEP*ing hot LoL! I ran 5w-20 m1 synthetic from January through November on this one. (Alabama) I digress. 5w-30 is the specified oil for all operating ranges, 5w-20 is a preffered oil. AFA a drain & refill. We normally reffer to using an extra solvent in the oil for a short term to flush the oil with (Really, just dissolve crap & let it be dissolved, or float down to the pan), or we're talking about the transmission fluid.

It depends on the condition the rotors are in. Hawk HPS pads, or Akebone ProACT. Flush the fluid too.

Aslong as you keep reciepts & write the mileage down on any oil change you do... You're fine. You should look at your owners manual. See the listed items for inspection, replacement & changing & follow that. Also know that they're doing more than looking at the oil. Things like mounts, CV boots, etc are all being looked at. Rotate the tires every oil change & do drain & fill on the transmission pan if you really want to get anal about it & have it wear well. Just put a damn notebook in the glove-box & write down everything you ever do to your car... Oil changes, maintenece, etc. I was fliping by Barrett Jackson afew months back (I hate that boring show). A guy with a nice vette worth about 35-40K was the original owner & wrote down every drive he ever took, everything he ever worked on for 30 years. (It wasn't a daily driver, just a sunny day car). It sold for like 80 grand just becaue of the book. Nice.

Use the 2005 manual...

Yeah, but flush the coolant, change the thermotstat & both pressure caps just to feel really good. They normally stay at 1/4 - 2/3. It shouldn't fluxuate when driving.

Because the stock COP & WS ignition systems from the 1mz-fe onwards are enough spark for atleast 1200hp to begin with. They are superior to the JZ family of ignitions. While the coils themselves are not as strong as a single coil. Because they have some much more dwell time to store energy, the spark itself is much more capible when pushing high rpm (low dwell time), and high horsepower. Provided you continue to use plugs that will perform adiquately. Because NGK/Denso plugs are rated @ 100*C per heat step VS about 70*F per step on other plugs, they are much more suerviveable, and to achive such power. You really only need to drop one, or two heat ranges on the plugs. I don't need to rethink *BLEEP*. Thank you. ;) Why would you build up a high HP engine and use the stock ignition? Are you using the stock tire size also? Toysrme, you need to rethink the answer. You started on the right track but you blew it with this reply.:chairshot: My thoughts on plugs: Use the stock plugs with stock applications. If you have a vehicle that requires multi anode plugs, use then them (Volvo, Porsche, Saab all require duel tip or tri tip plugs for the OEM part). If you pump up the performance you need to balance the performance parts to achieve the maximum potential. The ignition is good on the Toyota 6 cylinder but when the performance goes way beyond the design specs you need to get an ignition system designed for that HP range.

If it's knocking then the coolant dumping in with the oil caused bearing damage & sever overheating on the moving surfaces. You've probably tanked a rod bearing. Basically, you can take out what you have & rebuild it from scratch, buy a brand new engine from Toyota(those normally cost $1500-2000) replace it with a JDM engine with the understanding that it has no EGR provisions, meaning it will not pass an emessions test unless you swap said parts from your current engine. (that may, or may not matter for you). Or you can find a used one here (good luck). 92-93 Camry / ES 300 v6 is what you need. Personally... Buy a used engine & do ALL maintenance on the engine. Buy the cheap gasket kit from Toyota & have your mechanic replace all the normal leaking gaskets while the engine is out of the bay. Valve cover gaskets, the front & rear main seal, cam/distributor seals. Timing belt, water pump (Every 90,000 miles), spark plugs, the accessory belts when it gets in the car. Or don't & just take the chance a used one doesn't leak. Beware. Most used longblocks only have like 7 to 14 days of a warranty of the thing running & not leaking (like a head gasket). Most of the time, they only warranty the shortblock (the bottom half). Regardless of what you do. YOU MUST FIX the coolant problem that caused the overheating which warped the & caused the gasket to blow in the first place. Otherwise it's going to happen all over again. Ya better be checking that radiator hauss.

Warped rotors & low pad level. You replace whatever is out of specification, or going to be out of specification. Our cars adjust the brake bias on the fly depending on the loading of the rear suspension. So even tho the front typical will wind up doing aound 80% of the braking during hard braking. During about any normal stopping action, you'd be surprized at the proportion the rears do. Almost half on this older ES & they didn't really change the brakes substantually from 92-05 so... Basically, the biased on more modern systems adjusts itself via weight transfer. If you're not transferring alot of weight (Which is obvious to observe on our cars due to the horribly soft springs.), you'll wear the rears out not long after the fronts. Check/replace the battery, alternator & the major grounding points in the car. Always use quality anti-squeal on ever mating surface between the pad backing, shim, second shim & piston. Re-use shims if you have to, ALWAYS have the shims. It takes about 100 miles of very easy little braking driving for pads to be OK, and Brembo says it takes rotors about 1,000 miles of gentle driving. Whatever Brmbo says pretty much goes for me...

Most likely the rear valve cover gasket. I bought the ebay gasket set for mine. The smaller gaskets were fine, but all the larger ones were weaping oil for the most part within fairly short order. :\ Honestly... Go to a Toyota dealer & buy the real full gasket kit for the enigine. Then use ultra black RTV anywhere an anerobic gasket is required. Like the cam bearing caps that the valve cover gasket rides on. All the gasket kits you find online are generally very low end. Like Fel-Pro mess, just worse & imported.

Then why the *BLEEP* would Toyota specify Honda parts NGK plugs in ever repair manual ever written, ine ver owners manual ever produced & the majority of all Toyota v8's produced through atleast the mid 1990's used on bank of NGK plugs, and one bank of Denso plugs to conserve Denso plugs on the production line. Denso, and NGK plugs are designed to work in those ignitio systems. Other plugs are not. EVEN when you swap to a 1200 horsepower nitrous breathing monster. You're STILL going to be using the OEM ignition, and your'e STILL going to be using the OEM plugs. The only differance is that you're going to drop their associated heat range by 2 NGK/Denso heat ranges. Stick with NGK, or Denso plugs. You will be bitching by this time next year if you don't. Stock, modified, rebuilt & making 100hp per cylinder... The ignition systems are quites trong, but habitually finiky on the kinds of plugs they like........ Which happen to be the type of plugs they are designed for. And spark plugs don't give power. There is only two sthat is possible once you've got a good spark to begin with. One is to make a plug TOO LARGE which takes up space in the cumbsution chamber, there-by increasing the compression & hope you don't go too large, or the plug is hot enough to cause pre-ignition without having to drop a heat range & drop power. The other is to find the direct orientation of the electrode to the incoming mixtures which promotes the best spread of flame front in the combustion chamber. Neither are worth anything.