Toysrme

^Replace the rear valve cover gasket. ^^Smoke on start-up is generally leaking valve stem seals. It won't pose a mechanical problem. It's simply an annoyance. The cost to fix it (Tho the parts are $2-3) is alot. Wait until it needs a timing belt/water pump replacement (every 90,000 miles), or valve adjustment to do this. You'll never get it under a recall campaign because your problem has abso-lutely nothing to do with anything related to that.

Modifications... You can't run a baby subwoofer's amp worth anything, or descent stereo upgrade on the stock alts. A descent 500w amp is going to draw over 40amps, while a good 1200w amp will draw 110-120amps. Hell you can bearly run the stock cars off the stock amp. Ever notice that every time you trigger the brake switch, the lights dim? Not enough alt.

So we all know the old v6's have 80 & 90amp units (The differance being pulley size), and that the 1mz-fe Highlander has an optional 130amp alt. What I don't think any of us realized is that the 1mz-fe Sienna has a 100amp alt, while the 3mz-fe Sienna has the 130amp alt, with a 150amp optional alt. Now we got something that'll definately push a descent system. :D

Yup.

You're just unlucky. CV boots are a normal wear item for any transaxle drivetrain. I will say that their wear is almost completely dependant on driving conditions, and weather.

They're pretty much ontop of it. The battery is dead, or the unit is disabled. There isn't much to "break" so... A neat note for anyone into the "how far can I unlock game". You can almost double the range of most car clickers by holding it up to your temple & using it. Dumb, but neat! LoL!

Sometimes yeah. Old links but here http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=53...q=camry+driving http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1...=camry+drifting http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=30...=camry+drifting Camry's, but close enough.

Dang, you Can't beat that with a stick!

Dear god. Hey do you still have the old engine? I'm nearly broke, but if you'll sell me one piston & one rod for cheap I'd love to buy them. I'm trying to collect a collection with another guy of all the Toyota v6's & v8's. That way we can get them to the custom parts makers to blueprint.

Toyota/Lexus/Scion only does ATF drains becuase they don't have flushing equipment. I would do multiple drain & fills, driving around in between if you don't want to flush. From there, if you change your own oil. You're only adding what? $10-15 dollars per oil change to drain your pan & change the fluid. That's real cheap insurance on a transmission! I get about 2 years on Dot4 fluid before I suck it out the res & bleed out old fluid. On the Powersteering, I flush it. Suck the fluid out of the res, disconnect the hoses, route one to new fluid & the old to a bucket. Jack the front of the car up. Turn the wheel from one stop to the other. 2-3-4 minutes later you'll see nothing but super bright fluid evacuating the system. Don't ever flush the powersteering with the engine running...

They all use to be on their website. That's how I printed off mine for my 93. A quick search shows they've deleted anything not a current model year so... !Removed!. You can downlaod the ART form for it. SHows you some statistics, specifications, etc.

Yes, it would have an adverse affect on alot of engines. So go back & break his nose. In your case, the JZ blocks were cleared for use with 5w-20 so you should be fine aslong as you change it out on schedule. I would definately change it on schedule. Places like that use junk for oil.

Register your car @ Lexus.com. They have them online.

Provided you drop a heat range NGK/Denso plug, drop afew * of ignition timing, and add in the appropriate fuel. They hold-up very well. VZ's have been making 450-550bhp aslong as you have a real good tune & take it real easy. Keep the effective compression ratio low enough to please the pretty :\ factory head gaskets & *never* let the engine overheat. Providing that, the transmissions (The A/T, or the factory clutch in a manual) limit the engine. Not the other way around. A 75 wet shot is the maximum we recommend without upgrading the fuel system.

They're different.

Sure do alittle tuning, put a Walbro 190 in it & throw a 75 wet shot on it.

You should flush the powersteering fluid anyway. Aswell as the transmission fluid, differential fluid, and brake fluid. 10w-30, and 5w-20 are recommended oils. 5w-30 is the preffered oil on the entire scale. From well below freezing to 110*F. RP is a good oil, it's just expencive & doesn't test as good as other oils in Toyota's. Mobil1 synthetic / EP can't be beat. You have to spend 2-3x the money for AMSoil to test any better, yet it doesn't *really* test much different. It tests a hair worse as much as it does a hair better. If you just want a synthetc oil to do a quick drain with. Walmart's Super-Tech 5w-30 synthetic is like less than $10 for a 5 quart jug. It's not a long lived synthetic oil, but it's a good buy for the factory 4500mile oil change. 2000-3000 miles is a ripoff LoL! Anything short of recycled oil oughta do the 4500 mile schedule without the oil begining to tank into junk. If you want economy drop it down to the newest 5w-20 oils. Gain a couple of horsepower, may gain an mpg or 2 on the highway.

They have nothing to do with each other.

No. The gen2 camry / ES 250 uses the A540-F. It's non electronic. Later ones used the A540-E which is electronic gear changes & torque convertor lock-up. The 1mz-fe is the A541-E & you would need the 1mz-fe's ecu to run the transmission. It's even more complicated. Physically. You could put the engine & transmission into an ES250 & have a pretty quick little car. Alot of 87-91 Camry owners would love you for being the first. The problem. Is why would you go to such trouble for a car worth like... $1000-2000???

Warm the engine up & do a compresson / leakdown test. Tell me the numbers on all the cylinders. In real good shape the engine is probably worth $700-1100usd bucks by itself. Especially if you can get the wiring harness<es> out without killing them. They're gold. (Not worth anything) but a huge selling point. Obviously the transmission is useless to those guys, but there is *one* guy that does want to do a v6 a/t swap. he's probably jump your for the entire drivetrain. Engine to axles. otherwise just ditch the tranny on ebay. The ECU's & such are behind the glovebox. You'd wind up ripping all that out & all the harnesses.

Physically, yes you can. The problem is the electronics. You'll have to wiring in all the 1mz-fe & A541-E ecu, etc. Now if you did it... You'd have the fastest ES/Camry anything with an un-modified engine by a long way. ES250's / Gen2 Camry's only weigh like 2800lbs. If you're gunna do it. Turbo it before it goes in. I digress. Don't waste the time LoL! Dude, there are a TON of MR2 people doing v6 swaps now. Join MR2board.com & go to the v6 section. Tell them what you have. I promise. You'll offload that engine in a week, or two. if the axles & stuff are good, you'll probably get rid of them too. I think there's a guy on mr2board, or mr2oc that's wanting to do a v6 automatic swap too... Can't use the rims. 92-06 = 5*114.3mm ->91 = 5*100mm.

Yup.

^^ Radiator also cools the transmission fluid. If her radiator was bad, the fluid would overheat. Don't think I've ever heard of the ATF passage clogging, but that would also cause it. Let the car idle until warm. Hold the brake & shift the transmission into each gear position for a few seconds. Does it move in reverse without slipping?

Aw man that aint good! LoL! I did the same thing. Aslong as you soldier well & everythings still working, no harm no foul. Was it overheating before? I don't remember you off-hand & you've got 1 post so I don't know? It sounds more like a blown a head gasket. It may seal fine until it get's warm & expands. Then you've got coolant in a cylinder, and maybe oil. Which would explain the carbon. I'd probably warm it up, take the plugs back out & do a compression test. Who knows, there could just be a vacuum leak & the seafoam hasn't burne dout yet. Start your story fro the beginning. :) Don't make stuff out anymore than it is. If I never posted anything at all, someone else would say the same stuff 5min later. :)

Well... Barring it's not some engine problem. The transmission is slipping. You'll destroy it driving it. Probably already have. Flush the fluid out. Just get some Dexron-III from walmart. Make sure the kick-down cable is in adjustment.