SKperformance

another reason is if the charging system is not working well causing extra torque on the belt from the alternator.

I would almost say it is worn engine trany mounts causing the shift linkage to jam. Other than that you have a problem i have never heard of before.

They are old and need to be replaced not a big problem and easily replace.

If it is the same hall type magnetic pick up sensor then it is a press in type. When the abs system throws a code it is usually because the wheel hub is worn throwing a code to the abs . When it does it usually means both have to be changed as you cannot reuse the old sensor.

Coat the seal with some meguires tire endurance wet look. It will coat it thick enough to seal the tiny gap. Other than that you need to have the sunroof aligned with shims. You cannot get a new gasket as it is sold as one price with the sunroof. Also getting your car rust proofed will help close other small leaks which magnify the sunroof as an exit or entry point. Put it this way if the rest of the car was 100% sealed like a balloon then you would not hear the sunroof leak as it would not allow the air in and out. Usually the other door seals and trunk gaskets are leaking and can use the meguires stuff to help seal. It worked on my 94 ES with similar problems.

1 toysarme has pics somewhere of the inside of his engine after tear down of almost no carbon deposits. 2 I did a friends IS300 which was taken apart after for an elusive ticking from a cam lobe minimal wear. The tech who is a Japanese master tech working in Canada said it was the cleanest engine he had ever seen and wanted to know how one could clean it without tearing it down at 80 000 km. That along with my personal use makes sea foam a clean winner in my book .

If it tried to start when adding a good battery i would also say a bad soleniod

try to sea foam the engine first to bring it back.

Brand new tranny fluid especially the Toyota stuff is amazing at cleaning the internals of the tranny. No special additives needed. Just get an inline filter to catch the debris after flushing the system and it will work perfect after.

as the other abs threads suggest you need a new hub and abs sensor ,there is lots of detailed info in those threads which many members have contributed to .

if you have a hard time to find the the pcv use the brake booster line.

pull up the carpet in the handle and there is a screw under it.

you need to open it and close it again to seat the switch

If i had a penny in my engine or copper i would be impressed instead i'll stick with seafoam and high end synthetics which leave my engine deposit free. Copper oxides very fast and as such cleans very fast so i am not sure it proves anything?

I am moving the thread to maintenance but it is not really needed to add another synthetic thread if you read the other 30 or so threads in general it will all make sense after collecting data on why . No matter what engine or car or climate the differences are the same. Cost drain interval reduced/extended wear performance gas millage sludge removal I use motul costs $100 for a DIY oil change and i change it twice a year.

There can be had an air suspension controller which will adjust the dampening factor and ride height separately with a display unit . it really makes driving amazing.

I took mine off the day i bought the car. It costs more to buy them have them removed when you looses the lock and can be easily lost ,broken or just magically disappearing somewhere. But they are good to keep as a back up after changing them out instead a nut needs to be replaced.

It was not useless just somewhat covered before . But a new member may be interested in a few examples of what can be done.

Your accessory belt is slipping .

I have to agree it is pretty muhsy. One contributing factor may be the calipers are larger and also have 4 pistons up front . This combined with the added pressure on the brake lines it will cause flex. I am trying to see if we can get the 95-00 model a set of braided Stainless Steel brake lines so that it will reduce the vague feeling. I have them on my other cars and the SS lines are the best for added pressure . Anyone ever notice that if you let go and press the pedal again real quickly the brakes will stiffen up 3-4 X more? Usually that is from either a bad proportioner , bad booster, or sticking brakes or mushy brake lines. Try it and post back.

You never said you could not find it as well as you saying the plug said differently ,so why would i offer to tell you something you already knew?

the wheel exchange is one

It is a real pain to replace the vent assembly it took me an hour , no tip to it unless you apply a slight grease to hold them in place

why is it a no ? You are applying the cables to mimic the voltage of a battery ,thus you would apply it in the same place. The only no no is not to have the good battery car running at the same time to power the dead one. If your battery can start your car it can start the other one as well.

agreed it is the fan