SKperformance

I would have it check out properly by a tech. What qualifications does he have to work on his own car to change the timing belt and water pump.

Skip all the pain and buy a new alarm with a car starter and have more feature all in one for much cheaper. Also using pb blaster will work in the lock much better than wd 40 ever could.

The pads are not seated properly and the leading edge is rubbing against the rotors causing a high pitched squeel. Make sure they are seated and add anit squeel to the back of the pads which is basically a high temp glue which can flex slightly to keep the pads seated straight.

I have driven multiple es 350's and i love the car. There is not a problem with the tranny to say but it does not react like a regular car as it is drive by wire. I found in all drive by wire cars to have it act more normal is to keep it out of overdrive and if applicable to use the power setting for the tranny. This holds gear longer and makes the shifts quicker and crisper. Once this is done it seems like any other car. Even my 98 LS 400 acts odd when i let off the gas and the press it again before it speeds up. Take the car for some city traffic driving for 1 hour and you'll notice what others have complained about but it is an easy fix or adjustment to your driving stlye.

Well i just replaced my timing belt water pump tensioner pulley idler pulley thermostat and coolant I was not sure when the last time it was done and was very worried it was over 200 000km since the last change . I am at 305 000km right now and did not want to buy a new engine if it snapped. I got the car back and found the old belt was perfect. No rips ,shredded small fibers sticking up or anything. At least i have a piece of mind now as i have had the car for 60 000km . I have the old parts and the tensioner and idler pulleys must have been the original as they had a small amount of play so i am glad i replaced it now. The best part is the car had a noticeable vibration when revved to the 2000 rpm range . It is now gone completely and nice and smooth again. I still have the serpentine idler to replace as recommended by the dealer to do later. After all was said and done i spent $1000 plus 400 on parts which is not too bad as it is Canadian. So if you are changing you belt for the second time i would make sure to change the idler and tensioner every other tbelt service. Funny enough the cam and crank seals were good as well so they did not need to be replaced. Also the crank came off very easily as per the tech.

luxury mods sold them for about 500

Drive with your window open from a stop and you will still hear it as it gets muffled by the interior .

I would find out if you need a new battery causing the system to reset at start up .

completely different system it would not be able to work as the 98 key is a transponder head.

It seems the 98 and up LS400 have an issue with bank one running rich. I have the same problem as of right now. It comes and goes and shows up more often when it is colder as. it is more specific to me sitting at idle in traffic on the highway going no where in drive. On 3 occasions i will get no code but the engine will start to rev up and down. by itself. I ran pure seafoam to clean it up and made an improvement but nothing much. Not sure if it is a dieing injector or coil or maybe a bad head gasket leaking.

The flasher relay is located on the the kick panel by the drivers left foot. Pull off the cover and check the small cover.

305 000km

I have a similar issue with bank 1 running rich. I ran seafoam almost pure to clean tehm and still no change. It also has a hard start when cold but the car runs fine. I replaced the timing belt and idlers and it has disappeared for now but i know it was not the problem i had. I think mine if from an injector not working properly and staying open. If it were a ignitor then the car would idle rough also.

sea foam again

agree with stevie. tire pressure as well as an injector cleaning such as a motorvac or seafoam.

Ok here is the solution to both isusse in this thread. The whine on start up is the alternator making the serpentine belt slip . Either replace the belt or check the battery. Now the solution to the noise on start up is the heat sheild manifold on the exhaust. It only makes noise on startup untilit expands from heat. Once it heats up the natural resonace of the metal changes and no longer rattles. I have had both issues on my 98 and did not fix the heat sheild yet.

I would buy a new set and just buy bushings from then on so it is a simple process of replacing them at any time as they will fail over and over again by its nature of abuse.

Agreed it is either the button on the key fog held down on unlock or the key cylinder is acting up a bit which also lowers and closes the windos also. My 98 has it also.

I like costco for a basic battery. They are like $50 and you can get a free replacement every year without checking forever.

wonder if you got the NA lines and not the TT ones, although i thought only the caliper side would be a problem

Your battery cables or grounds are bad

I am not sure with the year but is the cap on the reservoirs part of the pressurized system? If so the crack is causing the coolant to over heat.

I would leave it alone and not to replace the glass ,get them to refund the cost of tinting . Buy some windshield repair acrylic used to fix small chips ,apply a think layer to the scratch and use a razor blade to smooth it out . Once dried it will be less noticeable.

If they are broken on both sides buy a new one and replace it other wise you need to open the door and manually activate the switch or wires.

Neither are OEM for an LS , iridium was never used back then.