SKperformance

are you sure the car you bought wasn't in an accident that damage one and then they got a new rim?but forgot to replace the spare in the trunk? just a thought since the spare is a full size 16 inch steel rim and tire save weight get a cheap steel rim with a cheap al season tire for the trunk

if you need the bracket as well then go to the dealer it might be about 15 for a new bracket and the screws with plugs find out and tell us the price it might be simpler than buying a set of screws for an old damaged braket

i thought that also but it depends as there is a common ground for both switches which supply power from the master to the slave switches so if there is any resistance on that current flow it will carry into the other one also

thanks bbsal i am sorry you feel there is not that much traffic but to me checking this site 3 times a day takes about 3 hours with about 200 posts it takes a long time,which is what i do on this site the reason to look at other threads is only because there is alot of really good info not all the members are always on to answer yours or anyones specific question but at one point many already did so you would gain more by doing a search, not me as you would get more than my ideas which is all they are,my ideas don't let the other people who have invested the time to answer a question previously seem wasted because you didn't scroll down the topic page nothing more nothing less :)

wipes are a simple but you pay for those baby wipes in a bottle the lexol would be much better

you may have a dampener door stuck but you need to read tehdisplay to check it to read the display you usually need ot heat it with a hair dryer then there is a self diagnostic procedure to get fault codes do a search if you can get the screen to work for the codes and how to retirve them

for 200 that is a starting price for the unit alone do not uy a cheap one as it can stop the car from running completly buy a clifford , viper , or code alarm anything less and to me it is not worth it

yah 97 and up have no problem as it has to have the key no dent puller will start it you where right bbsal i tried again tonight and my one cousins started fine but i am guessing it needs to have the ignition key turned and not hot wiring it as my aftermarket alarm stops the key from turning over the engine but if i arm the car the remote starter won't be able to start it either just sets the alarm off after 1 rpm i guess it is a saftey feature in case you are still in the car with the door locked as the manual says it has a starter kill

i'll throw this in the website suggestions

i talked to one gy before and he said they fit but rubbed alot because of the offset but another guy said they fit fine i say they the should bolt on but will rub depending on the year ,will be how much

not snide just simple and straight to the point i am going to move the post to the es section the faq is in the es section for the es model

it mght just be a hinda acura issue but to me it is still a company issue like i said get it in writing that it will be repalced for free if buying it the electronic dampener might work onthe jic as all it is is an electir servo that moves the knob up top not much to it at all i'll ask my distributer if it works on any others like the jic as he was the first to bring it to canada long before king motorsporst in cali did

cars are cheaper in canada especially resale vehicles many dealers come to canada and ship truck loads of suv's mainly to the states and get a new dash for a couple hundred a new is 300 is 37,775 here is sport cross is 44,195 es 43,800 gs 3 61,700 gs 4 69,500 ls 82,800 sc 85,500 but with the way the canadian dollars has improved it may not be a good a deal anymore as it is about 1.30 for 1 american each state varies for taxes so you have to check with your local dmv

there are many places that make a very good aluminum grill to be custom made to any car in sheets it is usually anodized chome or a colour looks much better than chicken wire or the crappy cement wire that looks similar do an sc right and get the best possible find a local performace shop or ask at pep boys for it

have you checked ebay?

there is a way to check it it involves opening the diagnostic cover over the engine taking 2 wires and running them by the batteryback to the cover to connect to 2 pins in it then turngin the key and grounding them back and fourth in a timed sequence a few times this gives you the code by flashing the abs light in the car so you need to contort with a mirror to look at the code them find the code and it will reset the memory unless the problem still exists basically the srs light wil stay on until checked y a dealer if the problem is intermittent if you realy wan tto do this i can post eh pins you have to short but it is a pain in the !Removed! and not for a diy basically if you have less than 5 types of pliers your probably still diy

the gx non hid uses a H 11? or H 1

injen makes bleep don't waste your money one anything they sell or anything that is not cold air like a so called ram air pipe Give Me A F ing Break there is no air being rammed into this thing the only ram airs are by GM firebird ,camaro, and some done up j bodies the only air being rammed up anywhere, is being up yours to belive there crap basically any short arm will produce lower #'s than any stock box even on a dyno since no one ever runs a dyno with a hot car or with a hood closed so the true "losses " are never even shown

most dealers will have a service person drive with you and tell you for free if it is a vibration problem that has to be worried about i know i have had a few techs go for a drive with no paper work but maybe that is just a toronto thing the dog bone is to the right side of the engine it looks like it sounds ,black and has rubber inserts they all break alot get used to it, i now custom make mine with ureathane to relive the pain in the !Removed! problem from reoccuring every 2 years all problems mentioned are usually related to engine mounts basically the mount has a rubber circle or doughnut and then a metal hollow pin inside it now it is only connected by 2 thin pieces of rubber that break easily a basic design error to make the car seem so "vibrationless" take a look real easy to fin and only 2 bots to undo to change a mechanic should not charge more than $25 to change the upper one and about 45 for the parts

the alternaotr is also very easy to change one bolt which has to be uinlocked lossens the tension on the drive belt the other 2 bolts are removed and it slides up and out all done can be done in about 25 minutes working real slow just disconnect the battery first

i tend to disagree amf the battery is not used for running the car in anyway remove the battery from the car running and the car should work fine still the only time might be if there is a serious problem in the battery causing it to have a high amount of reisistance causing a load on the alternator that is not usually there. i would say it is somewhat normal for the lights to dim but the stereo one not really it is either the alternator is bad or you need to rewire the the contacts from thte battery to the body ground and starter i did this and it resolved a few of my previously same issues or the belt is slipping but it more than likely is the alternator which is a common problem ,toyota redesigned the newer ones with a smaller wheel to spin it faster at idle which the previous one had problems with mine included,other wise it works fine until i am at idle

you are right there is no ant in the 200 from 97 it was embedded int eh rear winsheild the ant actually fits just about every toyota vehicle form the 90's that i know of all the same and almost the same radio buttons to pop them out as well the mast can extend longer than it does for the es 300 as it is never fully extended to its full height which is really high

ask them what they are going to be doing to compensate you

here is a list of all the codes for the obd 2 compliant cars a industry standard from 97 and up a lexus standard since 94 on the ES 300 1mz-fe engine thanks to tem for listing this P0100 MAF Malfunction P0101 MAF Circuit Range/Performance P0110 IAT Circuit Malfunction P0115 ECT Circuit Malfunction P0116 ECT Circuit Range/Performance P0120 TP Position Sensor/Switch ‘‘A’’ Circuit Malfunction P0121 TP Position Sensor/Switch ‘‘A’’ Circuit Range/Performance P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control P0130 HO2S Circuit Malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0133 HO2S Circuit Slow Response, Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0135 HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 1 P0136 HO2S Circuit Malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0141 HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 2 P0150 HO2S Circuit Malfunction, Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0153 HO2S Circuit Slow Response, Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0155 HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction, Bank 2 Sensor 1 P0156 HO2S Sensor Circuit Malfunction, Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0161 HO2S Heater Circuit Malfunction, Bank 2 Sensor 2 P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction P0171 System Too Lean (Fuel Trim) P0172 System Too Rich (Fuel Trim) P0174 System Too Lean (A/F Lean Malfunction, Bank 2) P0175 System Too Rich (A/F Rich Malfunction, Bank 2) P0300 Random Misfire Detected P0301 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 1 P0302 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 2 P0303 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 3 P0304 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 4 P0305 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 5 P0306 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 6 P0307 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 7 P0308 Misfire Detected, Cylinder 8 P0325 KS 1 Circuit Malfunction P0330 KS 2 Circuit Malfunction P0335 CKP Sensor ‘‘A’’ Circuit Malfunction P0340 CMP Circuit Malfunction P0385 CKP Sensor ‘‘B’’ Circuit Malfunction P0401 EGR Insufficient Flow P0402 EGR Excessive Flow P0403 EGR Circuit Malfunction P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1 P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2 P0440 EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction P0441 EVAP Emission Control System Improper Purge Flow P0446 EVAP Emission Control System Vent Control Malfunction P0450 EVAP Emission Control System Pressure Switch Malfunction P0451 EVAP Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance P0500 VSS Malfunction P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction P0510 Closed TP Switch Malfunction P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction P1100 BARO Sensor Circuit Malfunction P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem P1125 Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction P1127 ECTS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction P1128 Throttle Control Motor Lock Malfunction P1129 Electronic Throttle Control System P1130 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1133 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1135 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1150 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P1153 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1) P1155 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P1200 Fuel Pump Relay/ECU Circuit Malfunction P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Or No. 1) P1305 Igniter Circuit Malfunction, (Bank 2 Or No. 2) P1310 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 3) P1315 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 4) P1320 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 5) P1325 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 6) P1330 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 7) P1335 CKP Sensor Circuit Malfunction During Engine Running P1340 Igniter Circuit Malfunction (No. 8) P1345 VVT Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1) P1346 VVT Sensor Rang/Performance Problem (Bank 1) P1349 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 1) P1350 VVT Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2) P1351 VVT Sensor Range/Performance Problem (Bank 2) P1354 VVT System Malfunction (Bank 2) P1400 Sub-TP Sensor Malfunction P1401 Sub-TP Sensor Range/Performance P1410 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction P1411 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction P1500 Starter Signal Circuit Malfunction P1520 Stop Lamp Switch Malfunction P1565 Cruise Control Main Switch Circuit Malfunction P1566 Cruise Control Main Switch Circuit Malfunction P1600 ECM BATT Malfunction P1605 Knock Control CPU Malfunction P1633 ECM Malfunction (ETCS Circuit) P1645 Body ECU Malfunction P1656 OCV Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1) P1663 OCV Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2) P1780 PNP Switch Malfunction B2785 Ignition Switch On Malfunction (Immobilizer System) B2786 Ignition Switch Off Malfunction (Immobilizer System) B2785 Ignition Switch On Malfunction (Immobilizer System) B2791 Key Unlock Warning Switch Malfunction (Immobilizer System) B2795 Unmatch Key Code (Immobilizer System) B2796 No Communication In Immobilizer System B2797 Communication Malfunction No. 1 (Immobilizer System) B2798 Communication Malfunction No. 2 (Immobilizer System)

i though obd 2 was for 97 and newer but i know the 94 es 300 1mz-fe engine is also the worlds first obd 2 standard engine i hope you don't mind as you have this already up i am going to paste it in the tutorial pages for all the codes as my book has over 52 pages with 25 per page of codes don't worry i will put them to you credit