SKperformance

My LS used to make a horendous squeel every single morning.It only happened when started for the first time of the day never after. It was because the alternator on my car was struggleing to load back up the battery. Once i replaced the belt i found it not glazed and only slightly cracked ,meaning i could see them but not get even a sheet of paper in it. I also never heard it unless i opened the door and would hear it. I got a new serpentine belt and it is gone now. I still have to find the culprit for the discharge overnight which may be old battery grounds. Not sure if it is anything like yours but it didn;t sound like any normal belt naoise i had heard before.

doesn't lexus.com have it listed for you

the shop you bought the rims from. It has to match you toyota 60.1 center bore on your hub to the center bore of your rims.

Very nice, but those are not mandrel bends,it is normal crush bends. Where are you getting it done?

If you have no rings and they are installed without them they will be out of round and cause high speed vibrations unless you take 10 minutes to align each wheel seperatly and slowly on the studs. By the 12 set of 4 to reduce problem but it needs an alignment anyways after a ball joint replacment alone.

It downshifts according to load ,you may not see it but the computer is reacting to it. Having a topographical map is alot of data and i don't know anyone who could store that much data unless they drive around with a server in their car. It would be useless anyway as it uses engine load to determine downshifts and actual speed.

Agreed ,did you reset the ecu and did you clean it before installing it?

IT IS ALOT OF WORK,IMAGINE IF YOU SEARCHED FOR WHEN MYSELF OR OTHERS POSTED IT BEFORE IN DETAIL OF REMOVAL

I do not see how this is not illegal and infringing on copyright acts that are in place,for this reason the thread is locked. If you wanted to make duplicates of your own discs ,then buy a second set. I agree they are expensive but theft is theft.

Unless of course you always had a problem but with no SRS bulb you would never know. Get a dealer or a competent technician to use a scan tool to find the exact problem you are having.

Ok , i am going to give all of you the simple break down of how to get more money ,more cars, and always win when racing. First make sure you log on everday.You get a salary of $200 a day. When you log on go to race the computer on the left.Keep going to the max allowable # until you lose against the comp then step back by 2 levels and keep racing at that specified level.( so you lose at level 25,then race at level 23 until you buy more parts for a higher achivable level) If someone challanges you do not respond right away. Go to the track link where it lists all the tracks and select the track you are being challanged on, then select the top times for the car they have and read the results. Now you know what their last highest time was. So compare this to yours and you will know if you even have a chance. It makes it easy only race when you have a chance. Also never race someone just because it is only 1,2 or 3 dollars. they are basically targeting you as a newer user to up their point average,they know they will win and no one will race them for money so they just can gain points instead. I did this for a bit to some of my LOC brothers then realised we are one team . Do not buy a part because you know in real life it is a great beginner part. It means nothing in the scheme of things.The game is about math, read all of the parts available and see what is the cheapest power upgrades for the car. You can always remove and sell parts as well.Make sure not to buy any parts that add weight unless you are trying to get more braking(extra large rotors 15kg) or lateral control (subframe connectors 10kg) they have gains but the losses are more than needed until you have finished the cars other power upgrades. Start by losing weight with windows,seats and wheels. Then move on to simple parts but never buy the cheaper of 2 parts you are only wasting money, if you can't afford the 3 slicks for tires don't buy the drag radials as you will only want the better stuff later. So here are the easiest ways to win and gain money and win.

Too bad you did't have a picture of all 3 sensors side by side for comparison.

If you would like to read ,try by reading the headers of what this forum says in bold letters.

Those headrests are not from the factory atleast not toyota's . It is an aftermarket unit that replaces the original headrest. You would be suprised how many headrest have the exact same rod lengths and widths. In regard to the signal mirrors you would need to get them custom installed. Either using another housing placed over yours or cutting the existing housing and have a body shop fill them in to fit flush

no it is different go to a parts store and ask for it

ball joints alone warrant a 4 wheel alignment. Do you have or get hubcentric rings for your new rims?

find the last owners and ask them

Agreed, if somethign is stripped start by getting a new plug then using a thread rebuilder to help reseal it.

Are you sure the bosch parts are exactly the same including the same length of the pigtail and design of the harness plug?

calling an o2 sensor an air fuel ratio sensor is the same as calling a wheel a rim, same difference.

buy a prestone flush kit and do it yourself real easy.

i like the last pic much better than the others. 215 50 17 is not very wide at all and really shows the gap.

No tranny cooler will cool a transmission fluid adequetly in stop and go traffic, it is located at the bottom of the rad and has no fan for it. You want to cool the fluid in stop and go traffic ,turn on your a/c it will lower the temps from 230f to about 180-190f in 90degree weather. As mentioned before it seems to be an issue with the TC locking up too easily and often when additional power is still needed. By doing this if you press hard on the gas to create a downshift it causes the fibre backing on the TC to shear off and allow fibres to float in the fluid. The fibres cannot be removed by the filter as it is only a screen . So adding an external filter helps to remove the tiny fibres to keep them from blocking up the valve body which is the main problem. So you want to reduce heat ,turn you a/c on.Remeber your tranny still does need some heat to work properly. You want to extend the fluid use an external filter to catch the debris. You want to circumvent the whole situation ,turn the O/D button off when you know you want to downshift to . This lets the tranny disconnect the T/C without having excess torque when released to destroy it.

Blue you may have misunderstood something someone may have wrote somewere else but on a 1mz-fe engine in all RX,ES,camry,avalon engines they all have 3 o2 sensors one on each exhaust manifold (both exactly the same other than a possibility of having different pigtail lenghts) and one after the cat to make sure it is working properly according to the outputs of the first 2 o2 sensors. An o2 sensor and a air fuel ratio sensor are also the same thing no difference again in the term which is a small filament that has to reach a core temp before it can provide data which is usuable. Now if you have a consistant o2 problem with a working sensor it leaves only a few things left. A bad wiring connection probably on the pigtail, a malfunctioing maf or wiring (which you mentioned you changed).Basically if the maf read an incorrect amount of air then the ecu will compensate by adjusting the fuel, so if the fuel is ratio'd wrongly by the ecu the end combustion ratio will also be off and set off the code as it cannot see what is actually causing the engine to have a leaner mixture since it is giving it as much fuel as needed for the air it is ingesting. Make any sense? I would agree a Lexus dealer is a good bet since right now you are dumping alot of money changing parts without having them thorougly dynamically and bench tested before replacement. The easiest thign to do is to have a good tech with a proper scan tool to read the exact outputs of the sensors with a Lexus factory manual for exact part specs to see what is actually out of line. BTW Bosch does not make denso parts denso is japanese and bosch is german,Bosch also makes lots of universal o2 sensors but no OEM toyota parts just bmw,mercedes and so on.

It is dependent on rpms to increase pressure but if there is a blockage it will drop lower than normal and only be partially open when at higher rpm's. As already mentioned the oil level is fine.