SKperformance

I have no clue who super HID's is. I only hate Mc cullough products and all of its divisions from that manufacture . Your pics are huge though. When you ask about the light pattern is there a picture i am missing? As i am not seeing one showing it. Most retrofit kits look nice but the pattern will always be scattered compared to a original reflector or projector designed for it. That being said i still love HID's ,which is why i have 3 sets in use.

Nice write up but you paid 300 for a $200 taiwan Mc cullough kit. None of the assembly is made in germany. I don't even think it gets boxed there if it came from China to you.

Anywhere on the tread pattern can be fixed easily. There are newer patches/plugs which is a hybrid of both the older and newer technology. It looks like a T basically unlike older style plugs or patches. A patch goes on the inside of the hole. While a plug goes through the hole. The hybrid ones is a patch and plug made into one piece. You remove the tire and push the plug in the hole and the back side of the plug sits flush against the inside of the tire to make a completely filled and sealed repair. A definite improvement over previous technology but i still have never had a problem with the older plugs either. It is just more or less insurance.

just stay away from the Kuhmo's they are complete crap.

Agreed with getting the service history. If it was well maintained i would buy it over any other lexus for the money regardless of milage.

how long have you owned the car

Also make sure you did not make more deposits of carbon in the idle bypass from the cleaning which caused an accumilation of residue.

I dbout it as far as i know there is only one press pair of press cars for the circuit. As the Toronto international show is the 16th-26 and they are scheduled to show there i doubt they will show up there.

sorry but this question is a very hotly debated one. As such tehre are many threads created asking the same question with the same answer at the end . It is always up to the owner to decide what is more imortant money or what the engine calls for to perform and be reliable. The general maintance section has this and other common questions that are not really car/engine specific.

I'll sum it up this way In years gone by MB made solid cars pre 97 called analog cars. Now all the newer ones are digital which has so much electroincs and they do not work toghether very well. So is MB as reliable as tehy used to be ,not a chance. BTW i used to work for MB until last year as an inspector , so need to ask my uncle abouts there lack of reliablity. I remeber on guy bought a brand new S600 V12 and came back after 3 hours saying the a/c did not work. After the tech looked at it quickly the sale was terminated and the car sat on the used lot an hour later.

I have seen a few SL65's in Toronto but more S65's. I have an unlce that owns one for a daily and he eats Vettes for lunch while his kids play video games in the back as he says. It is also the same engine as the maybach and only this year was a part of the line up . Before it was only by special order for about 3 years as it was not on the Benz menu of options and was also only called a S600.

How about 22 lbs of boost 738 lb-ft of torque 604 horsepower 0 - 60 mph 4.2 that is the SL 65

All ballasts in production that OEM uses are the same power and output . So no matter what ballast is attached to a bulb it will be the same. www.hidplanet.com for more info

Like i said , i know exactly where you are coming from although no one every even looks my way for a run as i drive an ol' mans car. No one even knows its potential ,although i do have to put an sts and a TL to rest shortly as both of them think they are fast. I can't wait but know it will take much more work before it is ever a really fast car. Now if i could only find an LS 460 and transplant that engine into mine i would be real happy just not sure it would justify my needs. An E55 is made to give an M5 a run and i am pretty sure it beats it . Just stay away from any Benz with a 65 engine it is all 12 cylinder twin turbo power waiting to eat you alive and about 99%of other cars on the road today and about everything even available from a dealership.

The best way is to get a test drive in the E55. I love the car and it is very fast. Hell go for an endurance race of a few hundred miles and he will problably break down and you will win by default. I don't think NOS alone can keep you up to the 55 a couple of turbos and then yes , but for now bow down and let him have his fun because he does have the faster car on paper from what i have read. I feel trumped alone to bow down by the new LS having 380 hp compared to my lowly 300 . I was thinking of making mine faster with a charger later on but that much power on tap stock ,i think i will just buy one of them one day instead.

Get a cylinder pressure test and a leak down test done and an emmision test. For less than a $100 ( the most) it will give you one of the best and most definative guidelines of the engines usage ,life left and need of repair state.

The best advice is to buy the wiring schematic book from the dealer for $20-30. Running wires and connecting them is one thing but do you know and understand diodes and resistors which would be used in factory alarm system connections to keep them functioning properly ? I would run the system and everythign else but leave the alarm part to a pro asit can get rather complicated.

To confirm exhaust leaks i would use seafoam, there are multiple threads on its usage for carbon removal but while runnign it through the thottle body and then letting the engine sit for 10 minutes then restartign it ,will make the engien smoke out the carbon and make any small leaks very easy to visually find if there are any. But i do know a stock GS will growl under full load.

If you are ever wondering ,take the shifter out of o/d and watch the rpms fly up. 3000 is not high to me , also by pressing the gas slightly and seeing it only slowly raise with the speedometer alos will confirm its operation.

As i don;t have a GX a specific location i can't give you. If you have oem phillips ballasts then i would not worry about moisture asd they are made waterproof by being injected with a rubber/silicone sealent covering the whole board not just the casing edges. Open yours up to make sure which should reduce the worry of moisture.

A good alarm/stereo shop can add a shock sensor to you existing alarm. The easiest thing would be an electronic tilt sensor which would notice the height differences but not sound vibrations causing false alarms. I have a clifford 3.5 and it works great with 2 way confirmation and paging. It is also the same alarm as the viper as both are now owned by DEI. Also get more expensive lug nuts which are harder to remove. I have a special shank for every nut on my car . So it is not impossible to remove mine but it will take much longer to hammer something on to remove them .

Actually being able tp press in the the shock rod with ease is not unusual. It all depends on the manufactures dampening and valving factors they make the shocks with. You could have a shock you could not press in because of a high load rate but it still could be bad because of a seal which is going to make it soft. Its travel rate inside the shock is changed by its valving. Take the monroe sensa trac it is made soft when it has small amounts of play for quick road changes but under harder force it compresses the valves more and allows less pressure to be absorbed for better handling in corners. Just things to think about as i have a few sets of coilovers and they each work differently depending on there valving. Some i can press in easily others won't move nor will they rebound to full extension either.

It is pretty much the same as it is the exact same engine.

nope, they will only fit 90-94 LS400's with a smaller brake caliper only

They sell ballast mounts which are basically an X with 4 screw hole at its ends which can be mounted to the underside of the body close to the lights.