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I believe this can be closed out. The dealer replaced the complete ebrake assembly and seems to have resolved my problem. Thanks to everyone for their advice.

as it turns out, according to the dealership, the ebrake components have to be replaced - at their cost - since they are causing havoc with the calipre. I hope this resolves the problem.

for what it's worth, I duplicated the problem starting directly from my driveway today. It started from 5mph and continued right up to about 40, where at that time I had to slow down. I drove to a mechanic who I use for my other cars and he rode with me and the same problem continued. He believes that a brake calipre is hanging but couldn't determine which one. The trani brackets, drive shaft, bushings etc., all check out to be ok.

I searched the threads and couldn't any issues similar to this one. My car has 150000 miles and while while driving this week, I experienced severe rear vibration. I thought I had a flat tire and checked it; turned out that the rear snow tires were fine. I then proceded to about 65mph, when the vibration occurred again. I then droved it to the Lexus dealership. They said I needed to have the rear brakes replaced - a lot of rust and pads wearing unevenly. They replaced rotors, pads, and shims. Drove the car 10 miles and the vibration occurred again. I returned to the dealership and they balanced all 4 tires. The mechanic said that the snow tires, which are General Altimax Arctic, are a softer compound and when driven fast could cause the tire to come out of balance for a few minutes. I then brought the car to where I purchased the tires, and they said the tires are fine. Tonight, while driving about 20 mph, the vibration occurred and did not end until after about 5 minutes, when I stopped for a few moments. The trani seems fine, but the vibration continues even after taking my foot off the gas pedal. Has anyone experienced this or have a solution. The dealership is clueless.

What solution is used to clean the sunroof mechanism on a 98 LS 400. I searched the site but I'm unable to find the answer to this question. It seems that my roof won't remain closed after pressing the close switch and when it appears to be closed, it opens immediately. I want to try cleaning it before bringing it elsewhere. After cleaning, what do you use to lubricate it? A friend of mine had a similar problem with a different make of car and his mechanic cleaned and lubed it and it was fixed.

around town I get about 20 and on the hiway about 27 with cruise set at 75.

I did a search and couldn't find my answer. I always use sunoco 93 octane gas. does anyone know if 91 octane would cause any performance problems. thanks.

My 98 LS is finally fixed. When I mentioned about the suggestions from this group on the web I was advised to drop it off and it would be fixed once and for all. They cleaned the throttle body and what a difference this made. The idle is now about 730 and it runs fantastic for a car with 115K on it. The mpg has also improved from about 26 on the hiway to about 28. Thanks for the suggestions.

Hmmmm, the factory specs for the car actually say Idle speed (Transmission in neutral, all loads off, No A/C): 750 ± 50 rpm. Your transmission will be fine even at the higher idle, but the cause for concern is them not knowing any better. My $10 says they have not set it in the correct position, as per the attached PDF file. Take it back to them and say the power of the internet is on your side! The technical background is ; The 98 year was the first to incoporate the electrically controlled throttle. The idle speed is controlled by the Electric Throttle Control System (ETCS). ETCS is composed of the throttle motor to operate the throttle valve, the magnetic clutch to connect the throttle motor with the throttle valve, the throttle position sensor to detect the opening angle of the throttle valve, the accelerator pedal position sensor to detect the accelerator pedal position, the ECM to control the ETCS and the one valve type throttle body. The ECM controls the throttle motor to make the throttle valve opening angle properly for the target idle speed. If the accelerator position sensor is not set correctly the car will be given a false position. Not much, but probably enough to raise you idle rpm. Hope this sorts it. thanks for the reply and I'll go with your suggestion. thanks again

the check engine light came on to my 98 LS 400 with 115K. My dealer said it was a bad accelerator position sensor. I had them change it along with a new battery. The cost to install and replace the sensor was around $525 and the battery was 175. The price was high but I had nowhere else to go for the repair. Prior to bringing in the car for repair it idled in neurtral at about 650rpm's when warm. It now idles around 980 when warm. I advised the dealer of this and they checked it again on their equipment and then advised me that it was within specs for a car this old and with 115K. They also said that there weren't any other adjustments that could be made to lower the rpm's. I'm afraid this could damage the transmission. Any suggestions?

I'm looking for a detailer who is vg with the porter cable as I have some scratches that won't blend in with normal lite rubbing compound.

the check engine light came on my 98 LS 400 and after arriving home, it just quit running. I had to have it towed to the dealer for diagnostics and repair and it turned out the mice chewed through the map flow sensor wire where it connects to the unit. Oh, it also ate through the windshield washer hose. Does anyone know what can be placed on or near the engine compartment that might prevent these critters from attacking the enging, etc.? I did a search and couldn't find anything on this.

I also have a 98 LS 400 with 97k and no one has ever indicated anything about cleaning the throttle body. Should it be done and at what interval if needed?

I had the same problem with my previous 97 LS 400. Changing the plug wires and caps resolved the problem.

Threadcutter, what is the name of the product you used?