SKperformance

DID you do the work yourself? Sounds like the timing belt is not correctly installed and needs to realigned a degree or 2. You have to wipe the stick once you pull it out then reinsert it to read the oil otherwise it will be coated from the pump.

Nope , it is not a voltage sensing alarm. You seem to have a gorund/short problem. Funny thing is after about 2-3 minutes my 94 ES300 also sets off the aftermarket alarm for no reason. It also can't keep a battery charged more than a few days before killing it.

Do all of your doors activate the dome light properly (including the tailgate)?

Your problem is not an IACV as you are not having a problem at idle . Could be many things . Have you tried driving in 1st gear to see if it made any difference? Does the engine rev normally in neutral?

Happy birthday

Hmmm ... I am pretty sure my clips stay attached to the caliper also not the pads. The only thing attached to the pads were the shims and the wear sensors on the right outer ones.

I have a similar problem but it is the hinges. The LS door is rather heavy and when others who don't "care" a car the way we do open it they throw it open and let the hinges stop it. Problem is the small pins of a hinge are not made to stop a 200 pound monster just keep it upright. So both of my front door sag slightly and need to be realigned after i replace the hinges. I wish i could replace just the pins but i doubt it would help enough. The clicking noise refered to is definatly from a loose or broken bracket not hinge.

Mine does the same thing . It has nothing to do with the tranny but a poor excuse for a computer engineers salary. Basically the tranny is in neutral and does not know which gear to select by having to maps it uses. All Toyota and some other cars with drive by wire throttles have the problem . Some cars more than others . It also comes down to how you drive the car. To almost completely remove the problem use the tranny in PWR mode and also stay out of D and use 4 instead. Then the idle-to-coast-to-accelerate problem will no longer be present as the TC is not being engaged and the ecu does not have to think about it.

?????????????????? Are you suprised with such a brief statement no one has answered you! Try explaining the problem in as many sentances as you can think of to describe it.

does pressing the gas while cranking have any affect? Ever clean your throttle body?

Also if anyone is worried about voltage drops get a 1 farad cap at the minimum.

I have seen the hobby paint also and am not that much of a fan either as it is not as transparent as you would think. The folia tech stuff is from Germany and should be available locally check the web for a vendor. I love the stuff and keep a few cans on hand in red and smoke in case it stops being made. It goes on clear and stays clear once dry. It looks red smoke or any other colour that you use but whatever bulb is under the lens like orange will still light up orange with very little change in light output. That is the second best reason as the others may look nice but the light can;t be seen clearly anymore.

DIrty throttle body and iacv?

Unless i pull the car apart again you can't see anything. The wires hide from the battery right until they come out to the cap then are hidden back again until they get to the amp. I am going to be making a mount but not for a few days atleast so i could take a pic but it would still not show anything other than the wires as they have to do a good bit of snaking around the trunk. JL sells a RCA connection which you can attach to bare speaker wires. I only used one side but wanted a clean look.

check and make sure your dome light is workign properly from the pin switches.

Mine have the smaller ones on the right

DC there is a guy selling these small V's that are clear and they light up when you signal . They are not noticable and do not look that bad at all.

Personally that stuff is crap get the folia tech lens paint for a perfectly oem look .

Both with the coolant ,air bubbles or dirt can cause a bad sensor reading. Yes TB does mean throttle body ,good guess.

Ok here is the low down on it from my end. You got a steal and a half for your stuff. The amp retails for $800-1000 the sub with the H.O. box is another 1200-1400 in Canada . We get raped for everything compared to the US market consumers. I didn't pay that as i am in the business but it still was not cheap paying cost. I also don;t think the previously mentioned way will work for our cars as it is a UCF-20/21 not a 10/11. I am also keeping the stock head for a clean look especially from prying eyes. The stock head changes the audio signal all over the frequencies so one day i might get a JL clean sweep with a new amp to balance the sound again. I had to feed the power wire into the drivers fender .Then go up and around the fender support ,this means removing the fender liner to be able to secure it from damage. Then going down the back of the fender there is a grommet that is empty which leads into the cars frame rails. It took hours to fish this thing through and then drill open a hole to pull the wire into the cabin from under the carpet where it meets the kick plate by the drivers door. From there i ran it along the carpet to the rear seat which had to be removed. While you are at it pop up the rear parcel shelf and connect a pair of speaker wire to the factory sub. Also remove the factory sub so the new ones can breath. Just below the upper (drivers side rear seat) seatbelt there is a small hole surrounded with plastic push the wire through and with the rear panel of the trunk removed you can pass it through by the gas tank. I used a ground by the tank as well. From there i connected a JL audio high pass wire connector which adds RCA plugs to the ends. I made them reversed so i could check for polarity/phase which can be switched easily by switching the 1 RCA lead. I use the input signal to trigger the amp and will keep it that way. The only thing i have to get is the sub bass control as this thing is a monster and is giving me a headache. If i keep the sound quiet it will not trigger the amp once i keep it low but i would not mind something to smooth out the low end but not jar my fillings. I used about 1 jl fuse holder 16 feet of 4 gauge 3 feet of 4 gauge ground to a 1 farad cap 2 feet more of each to the amp then 8 gauge power wire to run as the speaker wires. If you can get the sub control cheap like the rest of the system let me know as it is $50 here and $25 on eBay. Never took off my door panels so i am not sure but it should not be hard. Hope this answers you questions and good luck

I have to agree , my cap with a voltage meter on it registers at 13.5-14.3 volts consistently. Even when my JL 500/1 is at full tilt and the car is idling the lowest i have seen it is 13.4

Do you have aftermarket rims? Have you lowered the car? Do you notice any rubbing on the inner fender well plastic or metal caused by the front tire?

Sorry i don't know about any fuel pump cut like the ones ford use on any Toyota. Have you checked for the fuel pump functioning ? Spark at the boots? Try locking then unlocking the drivers door with the key with a good battery in the car. Any fuses blown?

AGree use a thicker oil but don't switch back. Don't add stop leak agents either.

Not that familiar with alpines system but i also like the use of a factory head . I hate factory system controls which distort the audio to suit its own personal failures in reproduction such as raising an lowering frequencies . JL audio makes a very nice unit called a clean sweep. It takes all the factory's high outputs and makes them linear in reproduction .Meaning you have a well balanced set of RCA's to go to a new amp or 2 for the highs and mids then one for the sub if wanted.