CRLS400

Thanks for the further encouragement! Anyway, I ordered all the parts to do the multiple jobs and today I spent 5 hours disassembling everything. Fortunately, though some things were hard to get to, I got everything off/apart and now am waiting for the parts to arrive. I didcovered that not only was the idler bearing blown, but the water pump bearing was seized as well. My buddy had said that after the accident, the car was still running and he noticed that it was getting hot so he shut her off. It never started again. Both of us figured that the reason it heated up was b/c the electric fan housing had been broken in the accident and were stopping the fans from turning. I guess the reality was that power steering pump bearing was on its last legs and the impact finished her off, then the added heat/stress tore up the idler bearing which was going as well or vice versa. Does this seem like a plausible explanation? Anyway, we'll see how she goes on Tuesday or Wednesday and I'll let you all know what's up. Also, I checked the motor mounts and they were fine - thanks for the heads up!

Hey all - I started another post about the cams and the consensus is that it IS hard to turn them b/c you are overcoming all the spring pressure. I'm going to begin dismantling her tomorrow and I'll update my process on the other post. BTW I found out that I had power to both coils with the ignition on so the only thing not working was the fuel pump. However when I jumped the two terminals (FP and +B) on the check connector the fuel pump ran and pumped pressure. Do you think it's the EFI ECU? Thanks again.

Thanks a bunch for the replies - very good news that something's not wrong with the cams. Well tomorrow I will begin the dismanteling process and let you all know what I'm finding out along the way. I'm definately planning on changing out the belt, pulleys, tensioner, waterpump, crank and camshaft seals while I'm in there. I'll probably do the caps and rotors and plug wires as well. I got the car (it has 124,000 on the clock) for $1800 b/c it had been in a light front end accident and didn't run after that (guess the impact finished of the worn out idler bearing and the belt slipped when he tried to restart her after the impact) and the guy never took it to a mechanic - just bought a new Lexus SUV - so I'm still ahead of the game (unless I find out something else major is wrong). I really appreciate you all on this forum - thanks again.

Hello, I bought a used 92 LS400 and discovered that the timing belt idler pulley came apart and as a result the belt slipped and was pretty shredded by rubbing against the teeth. Before I replace the belt, I wanted to make sure the heads were okay (car may have overheated) so I tried turning the camshaft sprockets by hand with the timing belt removed (I cut it). They both turn clockwise a half an inch or so before I feel resistance that feels like a spring and they want to return to their prior position. Should they spin freely by hand or do you need to turn them with a socket and bar or release something else - I know they must turn in order to be able to set everything up when one replaces a broken belt. I don't want to force anything! Thanks!

Okay, I checked all the diagrams and there's no sort of impact switch... I removed the alarm and it made no difference so I removed the timing engine covers to get at the spark plug wires to check for spark and I found out that the timing belt was shredded! there was fuzz from it all under the timing proket covers. The belt wasn't broken but a lot of the teeth were worn off and it obviously had been slipping so I cut it and looked down and saw that one of the idler pulleys was broken. :( I had a pretty serious question before I went throught the trouble of replacing the timing belt. With the belt removed, can you turn the camshaft timing pulleys by hand to move the valves or does it take an extreme amount of force - I want to make sure the heads aren't shot before I begin..... Thanks!

Thanks again for the replies! I was thinking the same thing (hoping) - that's why I asked about the fuel pump cut off switch first. I downloaded a doc that shows the location of every electrical component (there's hundreds) throughout the car so I'm about to read each one and see if there is any kind of impact/safety switch. I'll let you guys know. By the way, at this point, the pump relay is not getting power with the key on - only with the key turned all the way to start and the motor turning...

Thanks for the help guys. I've tried starting her with the alarm light on and off no difference :( So I'll be trying to remove it tomorrow. I also had a buddy of mine turn the key while I had my hand on the fuel pump relay in the engine bay - no click - the relay's not engaging. I pulled the relay and could manually operate the relay with jumper wires. Is the relay supposed to engage (click) when the key is in the on position or only when the starter is turning the engine? I get 12v to one of the relay sockets only when the starter is turning and the one that is supposed to read ground doesn't. Thanks again!

Thanks so much for the reply! Stinky - I was really hoping oit was as simple as reseting the cutoff switch lol! There are no blown fuses. I installed a new fully charged battery and unlocked the driver's door with the key - no luck starting. She does have another aftermarket alarm with a toggle switch under the dash and an LED and neither the prior owner nor I really know how it works (although in one position the light goes out so I assume it's disarmed) but the accident could have done something to it. Where exactly is the fuel pump in this car?

Hey all, I just purchased a 1992 LS400 that won't start and I wanted to ask your opinion before I begin diagnosis. I'm an automobile restoration mechanic by trade so I'm not afraid of cars but I work mainly on pre-1970 vehicles so computer brains aren't my thing. Anyway, the guy I bought it from (an honest friend) rear-ended someone and cracked the driver's headlight, grill and dented in the bumper a little - a real minor accident. He said he shut of the car - which was and had always operated perfect up until this point - and when he went to restart it the car wouldn't start. He had it towed to his condo and tried to start it again and nothing happened. He eventually wore down the battery trying to start her every few days. About a month later he tried again with a borrowed battery and no dice. I bought the car and installed a new battery. She'll turn over and over but won't fire. I was wondering if these cars had a fuel pump inertia cutoff switch in them. I know Range Rovers have a switch that senses an impact and shuts of the fuel pump so fuel doesnt spew everywhere. You have to push the button back in manually to reset them or they'll never start. Sorry about the long post. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!