steviej

that was my first question to Josh. But, he did type it once in the title and once in the thread so I would have to say he has got a 2002. My calculations put that at 50,000 miles per year. Must be a traveling salesman or something. steviej

I could tell by the picture. nice one. me too. iPod nano and Kuryakin flame grips for my Zuki. cute, aaahhh... for the hot tub right?

I have pinned this in hopes that people will try this first before asking.

ok, may not be the filter if that is the smell you describe. But something doesn't make sence, if it was a wire or leaves burning then I would assume the smell would NOT go away. keep looking. My friend had the smell of burnt popcorn everytime she used the heater. Turned out to be a family of mice took up residence, built a nest and subsequently died in the heater tube. But in her case, the smell was constant. as for the trunk switch not working. check the trunk lid main switch in the glove compartment. This button may have been accidentally been pooped out. Open the glove compartment, the button is in the upper left corner facing you. If the button is in, then trunk switch next to the gas fill button will work. If the button in the glove compartment is in the out or extended position, the trunk switch by the gas fill button is inoperative. steviej

also try it at a stand still. put on the parking brake, put in neutral and bring it up to the rattling rpm for a few seconds. have someone else look in the engine bay, lay on the ground, etc and try to help pinpoint where the rattle(s) eminate from. steviej

turn the music back on louder and it will go away. :P sorry, couldn't resist. can you pinpoint the rattle. is it a heat shield type rattle or, does the pitch of the rattle change with the speed of the car, can you make it rattle with the car in neutral? steviej

start with checking the fuses, all of them, as many times multiple fuses are involved with multiple accessories. steviej

don't forget Boas Festas!

rear main seal. Another very common place for oil leaks. Search on it, been discussed at length. steviej

If you read the manual I think you will find that the beeping sound is generated with the vehicle skid control system kicks in. This system does use some elements of the TRAC system to apply individual brakes and reduce the power of the engine to regain traction in whichever wheel is skidding or slipping. I think you will find the beeping is audible when the VSC light is illuminated. The VCS indicator is the picture of the car with the two parallel squiggily lines going through it. steviej

If I were you, I would use the new car warranty to its fullest potential and I beleive only Lexus and some Toyota shops are allowed to perform warranty work. When the warrantly runs out or for items not covered by warranty or yourself, then consider JPI Importz in Garland, TX. How far is Garland from Austin. Texas is that tiny state down south, right? :P steveij

I was going to post FAQ! and tell him to run the diagnostic procedure listed. :whistles: :P steviej

wwest, the mold and mildew odor comes from old cabin filters and contaminated air ducts. This you and I both know has been covered many times in many threads on many forums. The electrical type smell present here is something new to the scene. I have noticed it ever since Toyota changed manufacturers of their filters. The odor goes away very quickly has been evident with the cheaper new styled cabin filters. These filters are not as sturdy or heavy as the original filter nor is the charcol material as densely packed as before. This newer filter does give off and "odd" ozone type odor initially upon air flow especially when cold. However, it immediately dissapates.

did you just have your 15,000 mile service at the dealer? I ask because they would have replaced your cabin filter as part of this service. The new cabin filters from Denso give off the exact odor you describe when the heat or defrost is put on for the first time after the car has sat. You are correct that the smell goes away in a few minutes. I would not be alarmed. I have gotten used to it. Now, on the other hand, if you have not had your cabin filter changed, then keep checking. I feel it is still something having to do with this filter. Try starting the car up with the air recirculater closed and heat and defrost off. See if you still get it. steviej

I am assuming when you say the little screw you mean the one that holds the plastic together. Too bad you moved so fast. I have seen on ebay, the housings. You simply transfer the inerds and the stem to the new housing. The catch to these keys is they came in neon colors instead of black. So, I guess if they come in neon, then they must come in black. Now, I haven't actually seen them up close and personal, so I don't know how easy it would be to transfer the working parts of the key. For that whole matter then, what would happen if you just bought a generic key on ebay and transfered you stem and inerds to the new key, that might have worked for short money. steviej

but will the Jan06 update be free?? steviej

that would be the easiest way to do the job right. The new boot has to be repacked with grease and secured . it is just easier to do it on the bench and not while one end it still attached to the car. steviej

are those the 2WD G35 or the G35x, as that will make a slight difference. steviej

Call you local dealer and get a part number. Then pit one online part dealer against the other. Even though the webpage may not list the weather stipping, you can still get quotes via email. I have done this on several occasions and still got great prices. steviej

moved to IS forum. steviej

here is a detailed description I posted in 2003. 2002 Foglight Bulb Installation I prefer the PIAA Ion Crystals. Let me know if you need more help. steviej

mileage ratings are "suggested" by the manufacturer and are based on optimal conditions. steviej

mburn, I assume he is referring to the one is listed under his name in the profile. mikek753, use a 10mm socket on a long extension to remove the two bolts on two of the corners of the air box. On the back side of the air box is a bracket that holds some sort vacuum device. There is a philips screw that holds the bracket to the air box. The cover of the air box will pivot higher if the bracket is removed. Use a magnatized screwdriver so that you don't drop the screw into the abyss of the engine. Once the bracket is free (you need not remove or undo what the bracket is holding) and the two 10mm bolts are undone, you should be able to lift the cover up high enough to slide the air filter out and slide the new one in. Pay close attention to the orientation of the filter. Look for indents, patterns and labels or arrows that say front or flow. Once the new one is in, lower the cover, resecure the bracket and the 10mm bolts. you are done. steviej

I prefer the K&N Gold oil filter simply because the molded 1" nut at the end bottom of the filter. A 1" socket, 2" extension and a socket wrench (which are used for so many other applications) and the filter is off. No cap or strap needed here. When I was using the Toyota or Mobil1 filters, however, the constricting band type filter wrench with a flexible handle worked well but my hands were nearer to the exhaust manifold for a longer period of time. marathiboy Whichever wrench is most comfortable in your hands and gets your job done for you without damaging the filter is the tool for your job. Try a couple different ones and see what works for you. steviej

In 2004 the ES300 became the ES330 because the engine increased in size from a 3.0L to a 3.3L. Body remained unchanged. I think the only other amenitiy that was added was memory settings for the passenger seat (but that may not have been until 2005). 2005 saw a redesing of the grill, fog lights, headlights, wheels, taillights and color schemes interior and exterior. I believe in 2005 the steering wheel controls for the audio system were finally implemented. steviej