gbhrps

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gbhrps last won the day on January 16

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About gbhrps

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    Dedicated Member
  • Birthday 05/30/1949

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  • First Name
    Gene

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Lexus Model
    ES350
  • Lexus Year
    2011
  • Location
    Ontario

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  1. Electrical issue

    JDent, From what you describe, I'm stumped. I'm a backyard mechanic who's been in the backyard a lot of years, and I've only come across a somewhat similar situation a time or two, and even I turned the issue over to a good independent mechanic. That said, there are some things I would check out before I had it towed to the mechanic. Check your battery cable connections to the starter solenoid and the body ground for corrosion, and make sure they are tight. Pull the fuse box cover under the hood and check that the fuse for the starter and the ignition (there may be 2 or 3) are actually good. Pull them out, check them, and then reinsert them. Sometimes that cleans up their blades and allows a good contact. Then find the starter relay in the same fuse box and swap it for another relay in the fuse box of the same colour and number written on it.( There will be several electrical systems that all use the same numbered/coloured relay.) Check the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment for burned insulation (indicating a short). There may be a fuseable link that's gone bad (I won't go into describing that here, as it'll take a while.) You may just have a bad charging system (alternator) that isn't charging the system (weird things happen with lights when they don't get the proper voltage), or as I eluded to earlier ... you may have a mouse that's gotten into your wiring, thought that it tasted yummy, and has chewed through several wires, shorted some out and is causing mayhem. I have been there to the tune of $860 when a mouse got under the fuse box of one of my vehicles, chewed 14 wires, and was responsible for almost 5 hours of diagnostics to find what was causing all of the electrical systems to not talk to each other. Good Luck!
  2. BeetleJuiceDNL, I applaud you for wanting to learn, and for tackling your own automotive issues. Too many women, ... and a lot of men, just turn the key, and if the car doesn't start ... they throw up their hands, go to the dealership .. and get taken for a ride on simple issues they could solve themselves, if they'd taken the time to do some research. I've been wrenching on my own cars for 55 years or so, and do all of my own mechanics ... when possible. But I recognize that there are some things that even I won't try tackling, because I don't have the expertise. In your case, I think you have an issue that only a a decent mechanic can diagnose and correct, because there are too many variables. First off, any good independent mechanic should be able to get to the bottom of the problem. If he has worked on a Toyota Camry, he can fix your Lexus. You don't need a Lexus dealership and their high labour costs to do it. It is possible that your transmission needs a software reflash, or that in that tranny rebuild some of the shift solenoids were deemed good, and weren't replaced, but are now sticking or have gone south. I suggest that you have your codes read from the OBD2 port, to see if any tranny codes show up, even though your check engine dash light hasn't come on to indicate one. You might also check to see if your tranny fluid level is low. Remember to check it at idle after the motor has warmed up to get an accurate reading. One other thing you might try is to disconnect the battery for a half hour to kill the engine computer memory, then reattach it. The computer will then relearn your driving style over the next hundred miles or so, and if the car is driven aggressively, may remap your tranny shift points, etc., and correct some of your problems. There is no guarantee, but its worth a try. Good Luck and keep us posted.
  3. Danpeterson, I've spent an hour digging this info up. Its for a 2002 Camry XLE, which is the same car as your 2002 ES300, same engine and tranny, just different interior and exterior panels but mostly the exact same car. I'm hoping that it'll answer your questions. Be prepared to search through the entire document to find the sections showing pictures and the step by step instructions for the interlock cable to the ignition switch, and the shift lever cable end, and then later on the tranny end of the shift cable. Its all there, and its from the Factory Service Manual for 2002. Good Luck! 40_Automatic_Transmission_Transaxle.pdf
  4. Rear Brake Caliper Removal

    parkerd, Its been a few years since we traded our 2004 ES330, but I've had those rear calipers and caliper mounts off the that car 5 or 6 times for cleaning and relubing, without any issues. Yeah, its a strange setup, that top slide pin that stays with the caliper mount, and doesn't usually ever get removed like the bottom slide pin, and most other car setups. I would suggest that you remove the brake fluid line from the caliper, remove the caliper mount, and place it in a vice where you can see what you're doing much better, and get some leverage at removing the caliper and that slide pin. Its too long ago for me to remember, but I seem to recall that the end of that upper slide pin had a smaller octagon head under the plastic cap? You put a wrench on it? Or maybe it takes a larger allen key inserted into its end? Too long ago for me to remember. If so, it should give you something to get a wrench on to undo it from the caliper mount. If its rusted in place, you might try hitting its threaded section in the caliper mount with an ordinary propane torch setup, but using a yellow tank of MAP gas (burns much hotter) rather than propane. It should expand the metals enough to break the rust free. I've had good success with this method in the past. If not, twist it off, drill out the pin threaded section and retap the caliper mount, and buy a new slide pin from Lexus (cause I'm pretty sure you can't get one from any other source). Good Luck!
  5. ABS sensors replacement

    Adesh, With good reviews from previous purchasers of the sensors, you should be fine. ABS sensors have no moving parts, and just read a magnetic field as the wheel spins, to trigger the ABS module and other computer functions for traction control, etc. Just compare the part with your original for bracket location and fit, and you should be set to go. I wouldn't be too concerned about using them myself, unless they don't compare well to what you remove from the car.
  6. Locked trunk

    e_engineer, If your car has a pass through from behind the rear seat arm rest, fashion a long hook from a coat hanger and try to pull the flourescent white handle emergency release (for use when you are locked inside the trunk) back by the tail lights.
  7. Remove seat side panel

    LauraR, Lexus holds its service manuals close to its chest, so that one will be forced to go to the dealership to get the answers. Unless you can find someone who has actually removed one from this generation ES, its a search and find out situation. That said, if your forward and backward switch still works, the best way to remove it without breaking it is to remove the entire seat from the car, lay it on its side and look for the fasteners. There are only 4 bolts that hold the seat to the car. Slide the seat all the way back and remove the two at the front at each side. Then slide it all the way forward and remove the two at the rear , one on each side. Then disconnect the battery and lean the entire seat back, and reach under its front and disconnect the wiring harnesses that come up from the carpeting to the seat. There may be several of them, one for the seat belt near the center console, a large one or separate ones for each seat switch and the lumbar air pump, and a YELLOW one for the side air bag built into the seat. That Yellow one will have a small red piece that must be removed first, before disconnecting the yellow connectors. The battery must be disconnected before you tackle that yellow connector, or you stand a chance of having the seat airbag blow up in your face. Now the entire seat can come out of the car. Lay it on its side and see how the side panel disconnects. Usually its slid over the front frame, and lock tabs snap over the rear of the frame. So prying those rear lock tabs out and then sliding the entire panel forward may release it enough for you to disconnect the wiring harnesses from the three side switches. Sometimes the side panels have three or more screws that hold them to the seat frame. Your switch may have had its connector come loose, and it may just need to be reseated. Or the switch may just be dirty. Once you have it in your hand, use some electrical contact cleaner spray (any auto supply store has it) to spray the fluid into any crevice of the switch and then cycle the switch in every direction, and repeat the process. Wait 5 minutes for the fluid to evaporate, and then hook it up to the harness (reattach the battery for the test) and try it. EBay or a wrecking yard may provide a cheaper switch than the dealership, by a long shot, if you can't get your old one to work. Good Luck!
  8. ou1, Never used this service myself, but give "PartRequest.com" a try. They have an 800 phone number as well as an online request list that searches all of North America's wrecking yards for you. Its out there somewhere. Good Luck!
  9. how to clean throttle body

    marathiboy, At that mileage you may indeed require a throttle body cleaning, the idle air control valve (IAC) may require replacing or cleaning, but most assuredly you need new spark plugs. I would suggest both are required. Since the rear 3 spark plugs against the firewall require the intake manifold to be removed in order to get at them to change them, the throttle body can be easily cleaned up, because it will already be free of the top of the engine. The IAC will be easy to get at as well. There are YouTube videos showing throttle body cleaning, as well as the intake manifold removal for spark plug change. Check out the IAC cleaning/replace videos as well. Anyone used to wrenching on cars can do both jobs, but if its not your cup of tea, any good independent mechanic can do the job a lot cheaper than the dealership. Use the same NGK iridium plugs that Lexus used from the factory. They'll inject new life into the car with performance that you hadn't realized that you had lost over the years. Good Luck!
  10. armcomdes, If the rest of the header pipe is solid and still useable, why not just have a new flex section welded in to the rest of the header pipe? It should be MUCH cheaper than replacing the entire header pipe. I suspect that any good exhaust shop (Muffler Man, etc.) can weld in a universal flex sction and save you some real dollars. It would certainly be the way I'd go, if the rest of the header pipe is good and solid. Good Luck.
  11. Doesn't Lexus stand behind their name?

    Sharonben, You and Lexus are behind the 8 ball. By law, car manufacturers only have to supply parts for 10 years for any model, and that time has expired. And I'm not at all surprised that they will not install a used part. You are going to have to find an independent mechanic who will install the needed parts and isn't concerned about the liability aspect of the work, or is willing to have you sign a document releasing him from liability for doing so. The parts will have to come from a wrecking yard. That is your only option, as Lexus is only protecting its reputation by not installing a used part. Its a catch 22 for all involved, but that's not anyone's fault. Either that, or replace the car (and I know that doesn't make much sense to me either). Good Luck!
  12. Dugmahn, Your questions are best answered by a knowledgeable tech at automotive audio store. They'll have the wiring diagrams, the impedance of all of the units, wiring routing layouts, etc., and can keep you from frying the amps or the head unit. And they may already have experience with the setup in an ES and can point you in the right direction. I noticed that you haven't mentioned what you're going to do with the tweeters ?
  13. 2006 Camry Struts on 2006 ES330 ?

    Strappedforkash, Of the questions you have asked, I can answer one of them positively, and another with a logical guess. Use the 6 cylinder Camry part number if you go with these shocks. The extra weight of the 6 cylinder engine over the 4 cylinder engine requires a stiffer spring. Inspect the spring insulators and the coil spring seats for deterioration. If they appear fine, not broken/split/excessively worn, then reuse them if the new parts will fit to them.
  14. Oil change

    Polo67, Here's a free download for the Owner's Manual, etc.,: http://servicemanualowners.com/2007-lexus-es-350-service-manual/ Gene
  15. Fuel Type

    Polo67, Your ES350 is perfectly happy with regular unleaded fuel, and the engine was designed to use it specifically. Yes, you could put premium or mid grade fuel in it, but you wouldn't notice a performance difference, you won't hurt the engine, but you'd be wasting money you didn't need to spend. One of my toys is a 370z Roadster that requires premium unleaded fuel. Its labeled right on the gas gauge and on the inside of the fuel cap door as such. To not use premium fuel in it could cause detonation and melt pistons under hard acceleration. That engine was designed to use only premium fuel. To use a different grade would be foolish. Save your money for insurance, new tires, oil changes, all of those things that go along with car ownership, and forget about the fallacy that you need to use the best grade gasoline possible in every car. After all, the ES is not a sports car.