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gbhrps last won the day on March 14

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About gbhrps

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  • Birthday 05/30/1949

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  1. lanalexus, First off, always give the mileage of the car because it often points us in a certain direction for a diagnosis. For an exhaust to get hot enough to glow means the engine was asked to work very hard (racing), or you have an exhaust restriction (plugged catalytic converter), or similar. You really need to get the car to somewhere and have a proper DTC code reading done. With the runs you are expecting to do shortly, it would be very unwise to neglect the heads up you car is giving you with its symptoms and engine light.
  2. dionj34, You are still too vague. Get the hood open, have someone rev the car up several times while you stand in front of the car and determine where the sound appears to originate. Better yet, record a sound clip or video on your phone and post it here.
  3. dionj34, Always give the mileage in any post. Low mileage eliminates many causes of issues, and higher mileage brings common problems that occur as the car ages. And that brings us to your description. Where is the rattle noise located? At the rear of the car (loose heat shield/muffler), near the transmission (heat shield/broken exhaust mount?) near the starter (loose starter), near the middle of the passenger side of the motor (timing tensioner), top of the motor (valve train). What does the rattle sound like? Maybe its best to record an audio or video of it and post it in your thread. You really haven't given us much of anything to go on.
  4. BeachBumForever, Here's a picture of the same engine in a V5 Camry of the same year. Up near the firewall, passenger side, under the intake manifold. Fussy to get at, but not impossible. Found picture on another site.
  5. gabep, Lexus/Toyota are one of the most reliable vehicles on the road. An expensive extended warranty isn't necessary. Save the money and put it into an account for future repairs on the car. If you haven't used the money when you next go to trade, then spend it to pay for the new ride. It makes more sense than an extended warranty you may never use, and will never give you back the money you spent to buy it. So if six months from now, after you buy the extended warranty, the car gets totaled in an accident, will Lexus transfer your extended warranty to your next car? I bet you can guess the answer to that question. But, its your money to spend as you wish, and if an extended warranty gives you some peace of mind ... go for it.
  6. babyduke, First off, you're in the wrong Forum. Click on the upper left title "Forums" and then scroll down the page to the SC Forum section. You may get more responses there to any of your further questions. Your car came from the factory with iridium spark plugs, usually NGK's. As for their costs, check around your local area.. Any good independent mechanic can change them for you if they're familiar with working on Camry's. And yes, its a pain to have to pull the throttle body and intake manifold in order to get at the back three plugs at the firewall. As for price, that's controlled by local pricing in your area (I'm in Canada), so check around. Hint: Most mechanics take a very dim view of customers who expect them to install parts the customer has supplied. Most mechanics can buy the parts at wholesale, which a private person cannot. He then sells them to you at retail, which is exactly what you would have to pay for them if you bought them from the store. So you basically are preventing the mechanic from receiving the 15% or so he would make on the parts if he supplies them, even though there is no savings to you either way. So, let him buy the parts, rather than pi** him off, but be sure to tell him which plugs you prefer. That changes of course when you buy specialty parts that you had to source from say a speed shop in California, something the mechanic couldn't source locally at wholesale. It pays to keep a good mechanic happy for the next time you need his help, particularly in an emergency. I have even tipped my mechanic with a case of his favourite beer. It sure helps me to get an earlier place in the lineup for the next time I'll need his services. Good Luck!
  7. wineluver, I tend to agree with your mechanic that you may have one or more bad motor mounts. The vibrations will only get worse and the added stress can chafe wiring harnesses and add wear to other car components leading possibly to failures down the road. It would be best to replace all of the mounts (3 engine, 1 transmission) as they are all supporting the same motor and work in sync with each other. While the motor needs to be raised during the replacement of the mounts, I don't believe it requires being pulled from the car. I've included an eBay listing for a complete set to give you an idea of cost of the parts. eBay item number: 182272643220 But there may well be some other issue for the vibration, so it might be a good idea to get the opinion of a second mechanic before committing to the motor mounts replacement. Good Luck!
  8. bacosta007, Two possible problems come to mind. The head unit amplifier for those speaker channels has quit working, or ... the connector on the back of the head unit has come loose and is not making contact. If you are a DIYer with car tear down and audio experience, pull the head unit and disconnect the wiring harnesses to it (disconnect the battery first, after copying down the frequencies of all your radio presets). It might be just that simple to correct. If that doesn't correct the issue, check with a Lexus dealership to see if they have an exchange program for the head unit. Years ago (1986 I believe) I had a radio issue with my wife's Toyota Cressida. Toyota had and exchange program where you gave them the old radio to refurbish and they gave you a refurbished unit to replace it with for like $350 or so (long time ago and the details are fuzzy). Maybe Lexus has something similar? Worth checking. Good Luck!
  9. Emm, If the car were a Nissan 370Z, a Mustang, or a Camero, or even a Miata, there would be a miriad of upgraded aftermarket parts for it. Not so with the less than performance orientated ES300. Just bite the bullet and and resign yourself to replacing the darn things every few years. That car is pretty bullet proof otherwise. REjoice!!
  10. David Lee20, You write that you have an ES350, but there is an LX470 listed under your signature. Which is it? From your question I assume that working on cars has not been in your past history. In other words you are a newbie to car mechanics, removing door panels, doing brake jobs, etc. My advice in this case is to leave it to the professionals. Otherwise you stand the chance of breaking the locking tabs on trim pieces or scratching them. Then there is the issue of getting the correct wiring harness adapter to match the car and the new head unit. What about the new radio having the navigation ability (if your old unit did) and hooking up the GPS antenna. Will the new unit pair with the telephone module for the bluetooth, and on and on? Do you have the tools for removing the head unit from its mounting bracket? Thirty years ago swapping out a radio was a piece of cake that anyone could do. Today ... not so much. If you don't have previous experience ... leave it to the professionals.
  11. Bill, Over the last 55 years I've fixed all kinds of window mechanisms in all makes of cars and antiques. Pull the door panel and the plastic weather shield and get a good look at the window mechanism as it moves. You may well see the obstruction or see where the problem is. Google "2006 es330 power window images" and you'll see the entire sheebang. Its usually a DIY job to swap the mechanism out after the glass has been removed. Check YouTube videos for the ES330 and Camry's of that same generation. Here's one for a 2002 but yours will be similar.
  12. Bill, There is a reset procedure for ES330 windows after work on a window system. Google it, and you'll find that you can do it yourself in less than a minute. If this doesn't do the job, something is either jammed in the window glass track somewhere, or the window motor/mechanism has a broken gear, bent tooth and needs replacing. Used is the way to go.
  13. salmoncheese, That intermittent statement you left out of your first post suggests another issue that was present in that generation ES. There is a relay in the engine compartment fuse box labelled "magnetic clutch" (I believe) that turns the AC compressor on and off. When it went bad, your interior fan still blew air, but the AC compressor wouldn't turn to move the refrigerant = no cooling. It usually made the dash AC button light flash repeatedly. If your relay (less than $20 to buy) is cutting in and out that could explain your problem. There is an updated part number for that relay meaning the newer one fixes the issue the old part had and shouldn't ever fail in the future. You still could have an issue with a temperature sensor or a faulty mixing door actuator, but I'd start with my first two suggestions ... and have an AC expert (not necessarily a Lexus one) check the system out. Gene
  14. salmoncheese, A 23 year old car ...... most likely needs its refrigerant recharged. With that low mileage at that age, it most likely has one or more seals in the system that have dried out, shrunk or cracked and have allowed some of the refrigerant to leak out. Its time to have a good service tech check the entire system out and recharge it.
  15. bb0408, Under the chrome end cap (portion of the handle that doesn't move when you grab the handle) there is a groove/indentation. Tape the end of a flat screw driver blade, put its blade into the groove and pop the chrome cap towards the outside of the car (put your hand over it or it may get damaged hitting the floor. Open the door and pop off the black round plug that is directly behind that chrome end cap on the door edge. You'll need a torx bit to remove the screw/bolt that is underneath that plug, as it holds the end cap to the door. When undone (the bolt most likely will not come all of the way out, designed that way to keep from losing it) and the cap can be removed from the door. Now grab the outside door handle, and slide it towards the rear of the car, and pull it out of the door. Done! The install is just the reverse, just be sure to get the thin gaskets back into the correct locations. The rest of the door handle mechanism (to the latch assembly) is behind the inner door panel and the [plastic weather shield, and can be removed while the glass is in its up position.