flanker271

Wow, this is such an old thread and there are still replies. You can contact me at: hanb@email.arizona.edu And yes, I still have the second set with owner's manual.

code 13 refers to RPM positioning sensors. There is a left and a right sensor. When I had my timing belt replaced, the shop did not snap the sensor wire back into the groove so the timing belt actually rubs against both sensors, totally destroying them. It was $275 parts and labor for each sensor. After fixing the sensor my unexpected sudden acceleration problem dissappeared, so I guess it was the sensor's fault.

I never had the guts to drive with light on, not with a V8 anyways. Cheers to all of you who do!

On my trips from Tucson, Arizona to San Diego, here is my report: For winter driving with all windows closed, a/c off, stereo on, I get 26 mpg dead on at 76-77 mph with cruise control. For summer driving with a/c on and stereo on, I get 23.4 mpg at 76-77 mph using cruise control during the entire trip. I can make the trip on one tank, but thats pushing it. I always set my tire pressure at 35psi. I can't imagine how a V8 engine and a car this size achieves 30mpg. How is it physically possible? By the way, at 75mph my engine is at 2500rpm dead on.

My engine had similiar irragular behaviour 2 monthes ago. While driving on the freeway using cruise control, the car suddenly slowed down for no apparent reason and would not speed up even if I floor the pedel. After about 3 trys the car would suddenly down shift and speed up. Similarily, at stop and go traffic the engine would rev up by it self for 1-2 seconds, then going back down to 300-400 rpm, then surge again, and then back to normal. During all this time I had to firmly apply my brake so I won't rear end other vehicles. Had my problem checked at Precision Toyota of Tucson (they are very professional nice people), the problem turned out to be the left crank shaft positioning sensor. During my last timing belt change (not at Precison Toyota), the mechanic did not properly seat the sensor wire into it's groove, causing the wire to rub against the timing belt and caused a huge cavity, totally destroying the sensor. Precison Toyota replaced the sensor for $375, parts and labour, and the problem went away. After some arguing, I got a full reimbursement from the timing belt shop afterwards. This is just my case and might be different from yours. I thought I'd like to share it with you so you can be prepared when dealing witht the Lexus dealer.

I thought the compressor stays on all the time whenever the A/C button is pressed. Are using the Auto button in this case?

Why are all cars look the same these days?!! Where is that "classy" LS look?

I do agree that the new GS looks a bit like a larger Maxima. I also think the current ES looks too much like a new Camery!

My temperature is at the 3'o clock position during daily local driving with A/C set to 66F in 100F weather.

India builds Lexus?!

and here is the American version... http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

have you checked the output amp of your alternator? I can't remember, but LS400 alternators should have an output of at least 80 amps. How long has the ps fluid been dripping on the alternator? It is possible to steam clean the alternator after the ps pump leak is fixed. But to be on the safe side I would just replace the alternator as well. Its up to you. By the way, how could it dry overnight if the ps pump is constantly leaking?

I had the same experience with alternator failing two years ago. It failed when I was on my way from Tucson Arizona to San Diego California during a vacation. The ps fluid fried the wiring inside the alternator. Trouble is, the battery light never came on, until its too late just like spiller91ls mentioned. I do get the battery light coming on when I turn my key to the accessories position, so at least I know the bulb works. You should get the alternator and ps pump replaced as soon as possible. A dead alternator can left you stranded.

for 93 its R134a, so I think it could be cheaper. By the way if your R134a is low your compressor should not engage. It has a safety feature to protect compressor damage until the R134a is replenished.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW

If this only happens after you turn a/c on, you might have a vacuum leak.

I'm not quite sure that I understand your post. Do you mean your engine RPM fluctuates up and down constantly? Do you mean when the engine is cool enough or when the interior is cool enough? Is this the compressor noise or engine fluctuating noise? Engine coolant shouldn't have a factor in engine RPM...it could be many things, from faulty compressor clutch, to dirty throttle body, to vacuum leak. What is your engine temperature by the way?

That time of the year again...burning hot here in Arizona

Yes I'm fully aware of that. This is why I'm still willing to spend $$ into repair in my beloved LS. I'm keeping her for a while :)

I'm a 21 years old male, Mechanical Engineer, with a master's degree from the University of Arizona.

I just got my car back from my Toyota dealer. When the previous shop replaced my Timing Belt, they didn't snap the left throttle positioning sensor wire into its slot. So, the timing belt is rubbing against the wire, eating away little by little. This is why I've been getting the light intermediately on and off. It was a $275 fix. $4,788.44 dallors into repair now... Is a Mercedes this expensive to maintain?

I know for 2nd and 3rd generation owners here, some have experienced engine die after a long drive on the highway. But for my 92, I have the problem of check engine light lighting up after a long drive on the highway. Autozone said the light indicated code #13. Usually after driving for over 3 hours on the freeway, the check engine light will light up if I slow down to a crawl. If I restart the engine and get back on the freeway, the light will go away. I did this many times and the same results occurs every single time. Any thoughts on this? Could this also be caused by dirty throttle body?

so the whining is the clutch not the bearing? Or is the bearing located on the clutch?

Its in very small 1/4 FL oz rectangular glass bottles with white metal screw on caps. You can find them at WalMart toy section where they sell plastic model kits. People in the hobbyshop should be able to help you too. This paint really works, and it saves you the hassle of having to rip off the old emblem. The paint brand is called "Testors"...besure to get Enamel type not Acryllic type.

Go to your local hobby shop and buy a bottle of gold paint for model airplanes. It must be Gloss Enamel type paint to be water resistant. Don't get the Acryllic paint. I did this two years ago and the emblems are still shiny. A bottle costs about $2.67. :Edit: WalMart carries them too