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TOGWT

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Everything posted by TOGWT

  1. Alternative products- a) A European (Germany) equivalent to the PC 7424/7336 is the Flex X1107VE. http://www.baukreis.de/produkte/inde...p=F...p;s=&pg=199 B) Bosch Gex 150 Turbo 150mm Round Orbit Sander 240v – http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=124394 c) Flex XC 3401 VRG - Slim stick handle, high torque motor (4100W) light weight (4.85 lbs) and a practical bail handle. That is how to polish easily and effortlessly in every job. The accelerator trigger switch and speed selection (1100 – 3700) allow for a controlled acceleration to the optimal mixing speed - http://www.flexnorthamerica.com/l3403vrg.html d) Groit’s Garage - Random Orbital (Mosay 8812) spins at higher orbits per minute (4,000 and 7,000) has a smaller polishing pattern, a rheostat speed dial for polishing and an internal fan to cool off the backing plate (thus, no heat build-up in our pad, or on your paint), a higher torque motor to eliminate stalling, an ergonomic top handle, and an easy-to-reach side on/off switch, plus your hands will enjoy much less vibration from the orbital e) Cyclo Polisher - you will achieve hand-rubbed quality at a much faster rate. There is no chance of heat build-up so there is no chance of burning the paint. You get a professional swirl free finish. Specs: 6.5 lbs, 3,200 OPM, heavy-duty cast aluminium, 60 cycle, 1/3 HP, 2.0 amps, 115V, 60Hz http://topoftheline.com/cyclopolisher.html Griot's Garage Random Orbital 750W Motor 110 volts / 60Hz Variable Speed Control (1 -6) Ergonomic Design Soft-Start, Constant Speed 4,000 and 7,000 orbits per minute Flexible 6 1/2 Ft. Power Cord http://www.griotsgarage.com Rotex - RO125 Is a departure from the conventional sanders because it is actually two sanders in one. This dual mode sander fulfils all your fine random orbit sanding needs with its 5" diameter, 3.6mm (9/64") stroke and with the press of a button turns into an aggressive yet very controllable rotary sander. Perhaps one reason it is so controllable and aggressive in the rotary mode is because the pad performs a random orbit while it is rotating, an operation that I believe is unique to this machine. With accessories you can also use this sander in a third mode, that of a polisher. At 4.4lbs its light enough for extended use and its ergonomic design feels right at home in your hands. Festool RO 125 Power consumption: 500 Watts / 4.2 amps 120 v AC Pad diameter: 5" (125 mm) Speed rotary motion: 300 - 600 rpm Speed eccentric motion: 3000 - 6000 rpm Sanding stroke: 9/64" (3.6 mm) Dust extractor connection: 1" (27 mm) Weight: 4.4 lbs. (2 kg) http://www.festool.com.au/artikel/artikel....p;uk=1&hk=4
  2. Leather Care / Cleaning / Maintenance– These articles are designed to help detailer’s make informed decisions when selecting leather care products for automobiles. There is no hype; I am a writer not a vendor of leather care products, so this is not a sales pitch - just factual information http://www.detailuniversity.com/
  3. This is why we ask for a photograph, it’s far easier to analysis a problem by seeing it as opposed to guessing from a worded description (plus we like to see photos of your car LOL)
  4. Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml 3M FAQ- http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U.../Consumer/FAQs/ X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp X-Pel US by State Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/and use the Zip code locater Alternative products- a) As an optically clear product (recommended) http://www.invisiblepatterns.com
  5. The wax product they used has sealed the brake dust / road debris on the surface, to make things worse sequestered metal brake dust, if left for any length of time on the wheels causes galvanic corrosion, which etches the surface and eventually dulls the wheel’s appearance if not removed on a regular basis. For badly soiled surfaces use an undiluted d-limonene (citrus) based APC (P21S Total Auto Wash) let it dwell for 5-10 minutes and then use a double sided woven micro fibre towel, made to be safe and scratch-free for all finishes - http://poorboysworld.com/microfiber.htm do not use heavy pressure, then use detailer’s clay followed by a gel-type wheel surface cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) apply a polymer surface protection to ensure easier future cleaning (Klasse All-In-One or ZoopSeal - http://www.autogeek.net
  6. Tobacco smoke- is one of the most difficult smells to remove from a car, as the smoke permeates almost every interior finish. Start by cleaning the carpets and upholstery with an extractor and 303 Carpet & Spot Remover TM. Clean leather, vinyl and all interior glass surfaces with approved cleaners, once the carpet has dried for 24 hours, sprinkle with baking soda, rub it in to ensure that it penetrates the fibres and leave it for about a week, then vacuum the carpet to remove. The baking soda should absorb the remaining odour in the carpet. As with all smell and odour removal check the cabin air filter, change as necessary. Place an open container of fresh ground coffee under each seat or foot well, coffee works astonishing well at absorbing cigarette odours.
  7. To remove stains the surface tension that bonds them must be released, then the stain encapsulated and held in suspension to be removed. I’m repeatedly asked which product is the best interior cleaner. There is no one-product answer; as the so-called all purpose cleaners (APC) do not remove every stain, different stains require different solvents to remove them. When cleaning a stain, try detergent and water first. If this does not remove the stain, then try a stronger type cleaner) once fabric is clean apply a fabric protection (303TM High Tech Fabric Guard) Between these cleaners you should be able to remove 99% of stains occurring in a vehicle and around the home; Start with a 10:1 solution and decrease dilution as necessary; Carpets- 303™ Rug / Upholstery Cleaner & Spot Remover P21S Total Auto Wash (its active ingredient is d-limonene (citrus) a safe all purpose cleaner (APC) Woolite® Heavy Traffic Carpet Foam or Hoover Deep Cleansing Carpet/Upholstery Detergent Folex Instant Carpet Spot Remover PVC – a solution of Woolite and distilled water or a citrus-based cleaner and water to remove stains use 1Z Cockpit Premium as a matte finish dressing. Plastic - Plexus, BTI™ Chemicals Plastic Polish & Cleaner Leather – a solution of Woolite and distilled water and Zaino Z-10 as a conditioner Washable surfaces - Distilled water / Woolite 10:1 or 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover ™ Glass surfaces - Stoner's Invisible Glass and a (Norwex) glass cleaning cloth with a super tight knit. Wood surfaces – Klasse or Zaino All-In-One (AIO) Ultra violet (UV) protection - for all interior surfaces- 303™ Aerospace Protectant
  8. Navigation (SatNav) or DVD Screen: The screen is highly static and tends to attract dust like a magnet; so do not attempt to remove dust with a dry cloth. Use a 100% cotton towel and electronics `safe' anti-static cleaner (Kiwi Brands Endust™ for Electronics or Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant & Polish) also works well on both computer monitors and television screens.
  9. The wood trim in most vehicles (some Mercedes Benz and Lexus model’s use real wood) is protected with a urethane clear coat, polyurethane or a thin lacquer, which is very easily scratched. Remove scratches with a fine polish (QUIXX Repair System - http://www.quixx.com/english/kratzer.htm) clean /protect with a chemical cleaner (Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-AIO) and then buff with a clean 100% cotton towel
  10. Clean the surfaces with a 6:1 solution of Woolite (or equivalent product i.e. a very gentle liquid soap used for baby clothes ashing) repeat until the dirt has been removed. Follow with a very light application of Prestine / Rejuvenator. ¬Hope this helps¬ Note: for really neglegted / dirty surfaces use Leatherequi's Prepping Agent
  11. Drying Pattern: Use a different drying pattern for interior / exterior glass surfaces (i.e. horizontal for interior and vertical for exterior) utilizing this technique you can easily determine the location of any streaking.
  12. You are obviously very well versed in the use of chemicals so I will concede to you superior knowledge
  13. Quote: Not quite sure how one accumulates, copies, or is even remotely interested such knowledge or data about acids. But, in any case, I'm not touching any acids - other than the muriatic acid I pour into my pool - and I'm certainly not putting any on my wheels...thanks, though... As a detailer I want to know what chemicals could damage my vehicle's surfaces or components As a person who loves his automobile I want to learn what chemicals / substances might harm me or mine As a chemical Engineer I have a professional interest As an author of detailing books / articles I use my professional knowledge to help detailer's choose safe chemicals
  14. If this acid is your 'friend' I'd hate to see what your enemies would do to you? Hydrofluoric Acid (SiO2): [: is a highly toxic and corrosive solution of hydrogen fluoride in water.] Cleaning paint (inc wheel surfaces) - ten or more years ago this method was widely used by body-shops and detailers to remove water spots from paint surfaces, however, as time progressed, we started to see metallic paints and wheel surfaces darken under the clear coat. Hydrofluoric acid is also notoriously known to react with glass. On factory aluminium wheel surfaces, acrylic polyurethane finishes or polyester powdered coatings it will occlude (cloud) an indication that the finish surface has been compromised, it also produces micro hairline cracks, and will eventually fail. It also has the unique ability to dissolve almost all inorganic oxides. In the human body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with calcium and damages nerves, bone, and several organs including the heart and kidneys. It has an NFPA health rating of 3; Short exposure could cause serious temporary or residual injury even though prompt medical attention was given This substance should be handled with extreme care, beyond that accorded to hydrochloric, sulphuric, or other mineral acids Information resource - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid Material Data Sheet - MSDS - http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm Where do you copy this stuff from (as I have asked like 10 times)? Also your post is nothing new here since this has been talked about years ago on autopia. They (acids) are not more dangerous then most items in your home. Again acids are a great tool (friend) if you use them correctly. This is what other mobile detailer's say about the risks involved- http://www.websitetoolbox.com/tool/post/mo...post?id=1785815
  15. Quote: Where do you copy this stuff from (as I have asked like 10 times)? I apologise as I must have missed the question the last nine times. As stated in my post- Information resource - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid Material Data Sheet - MSDS - http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm
  16. If this acid is your 'friend' I'd hate to see what your enemies would do to you? Hydrofluoric Acid (SiO2): [: is a highly toxic and corrosive solution of hydrogen fluoride in water.] Cleaning paint (inc wheel surfaces) - ten or more years ago this method was widely used by body-shops and detailers to remove water spots from paint surfaces, however, as time progressed, we started to see metallic paints and wheel surfaces darken under the clear coat. Hydrofluoric acid is also notoriously known to react with glass. On factory aluminium wheel surfaces, acrylic polyurethane finishes or polyester powdered coatings it will occlude (cloud) an indication that the finish surface has been compromised, it also produces micro hairline cracks, and will eventually fail. It also has the unique ability to dissolve almost all inorganic oxides. In the human body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with calcium and damages nerves, bone, and several organs including the heart and kidneys. It has an NFPA health rating of 3; Short exposure could cause serious temporary or residual injury even though prompt medical attention was given This substance should be handled with extreme care, beyond that accorded to hydrochloric, sulphuric, or other mineral acids Information resource - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid Material Data Sheet - MSDS - http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/H3880.htm
  17. My guess is they used HF (Hydrofluoric Acid (SiO2) to clean the wheels. A specialist wheel repair shop: www.wheelcollision.com, Wheels America http://www.fixrim.com, http://www.wickedwheels.co.uk/ (also USA) should be able to help
  18. Steam cleaning- a steamer has a multitude of functional usages for leather interiors; doors, leather and vinyl upholstery and trim, all clean exceptionally well with steam, it will loosen up the deep ground in soil that normal cleaning cannot reach and emulsify most types of dirt and grime that gets into what are inaccessible places for other methods of cleaning i.e. cup holders, seams and grooves, between cushion and bolsters, liquid spills, etc. Use a d-limonene based (citrus) solvent P21S Total Auto Wash, in a ratio of 10:1 or stronger with distilled water as a pre-cleaning solution, followed by steam cleaning. The steamer will also ease out wrinkles and the heat generated will open the pores of leather just before the application of a conditioner; the conditioners in the Rejuvenator Oil force proteins back into the leather, which helps release soils (dirt and / or grease) then apply Prestine Clean to release any deep down soils and condition the leather and re-softens it - http://www.leatherique.com If you don't have the leathireque and a steam cleaner it may be less expensive to take it to a professional detailer To remove bug debis I prefer a safe solvent (Stoner's Tarminator) as it non-abrasive, if the paint is etched (the bug residue is acidic) you will need an abrasive polish to level the paint surface
  19. Groit's was the first company that most detailers became aware of that was using private labelling (re-seller) It is now very much prevailant in the car care product marketplace. Private Labelling: Private label (i.e. Chemical Guys, Lake County, etc) is a term used to describe selling one company's product or service under another company’s name (what is generally termed a’ reseller’) they will repackage their product using you logos, colours, company image etc. The product or service becomes branded to the re-seller’s company; increasing profit margins as there are no R&D costs nor is a large inventory required, thus allowing for larger product availably coupled with the ability to build brand recognition and awareness amongst your clients through your own marketing efforts They will also aid in the formulation of your own unique product, given an idea of what you are looking for in a product and they can probably formulate it. All product scent, fragrance, colour, viscosity, thickness, look and feel can also be custom tailored to your needs once the product and packaging is agreed upon.
  20. B) If the underside of the engine compartment hood has a sound deadening felt-like cover- •Brush the cover with a soft brush, using light pressure to avoid tearing the material •Using a soft brush attachment, vacuum the surface using a very light pressure •Spray P21S® Total Auto Wash on to a 100% cotton terry towel •Use very light and even pressure on the towel (use a ‘patting’ type motion, do not rub the lining as it may tear) •Work the cleaner into the fabric but do not saturate the material or use much pressure on the towel •Fill a spray bottle with clean water and rinse area thoroughly •Using a terry towel gently blot the surface, rinsing the towel often until all residue is removed
  21. Delamination- clear coat detachment is the result of inferior preparation of the base coat (colour) prior to the application of the clear coat. This may be evident on any area of a vehicle where there is trim such as mouldings door handles, window trim, etc. You need to remove the entire clear coat and re-apply a base coat and finally a clear coat. If you don't the new paint will separate due to delamination of the original clear coat under the new paint you applied. Correction- repair requires correctly preparing the area by cleaning and sanding, the base coat must be examined (checked with a paint thickness meter) to insure correct film build and the clear re-applied. The entire panel should be refinished rather than attempting a ‘spot repair’. Any attempt to hide the defect by wet sanding and polishing / compounding will result in further damage by removing the paint build (thickness)
  22. I don't know if individual car mfgs have their own paint thickness standards, but these are considered industry stds- Paint Film Thickness: Most modern vehicle paint film systems (paint build) comprise a primer coat of 2 Mil, a colour coat of 1-2 Mil, and clear coat of 2-3 Mil, an unprotected paint surface will lose approximately 8-10% or 0.4 Mil (0.0004-inch) to environmental exposure in a twelve month period (dependant upon geographic location) As a point of reference a sheet of copy paper is 3.5Mil (0.0035") removing more that 10% or 0.3 Mil (0.0003") of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure
  23. The wood trim in most vehicles (some Mercedes Benz model’s use real wood) is protected with a urethane clear coat, polyurethane or a thin lacquer, which is very easily scratched. Remove scratches with a fine polish (Groit's Fine Hand Polish) clean /protect with a chemical cleaner (Klasse All-In-One or Zaino Z-AIO) and then buff with a clean 100% cotton towel Note- If your finger nail catches in the scratch then it’s too deep to remove
  24. Microfiber Washing Directions: Use hot (120oF<) water and add 1-2 ounces of liquid to a standard size (8 gallon) load, for larger loads or heavily soiled laundry, add 3-6 ounces. As a pre-spotter: dilute 1 part concentrates with 3 parts water, apply to stain and launder as usual. The main reason why liquid fabric softeners and dryer sheets are not compatible with automotive towels is that they do not in fact soften, but coat the towel surface with silicone, which produces a smooth slippery surface that reduces the fabrics ability to remove excess wax or to effectively buff and absorb. The fabric will also deposit these chemicals onto you vehicle's surface. The towel will treat the fabric softener as if it was dirt by trying to store the tiny particles of the softener in the towel fibres. This will clog up the micro fibres and render the towel ineffective. Optional those Eco soft® dryer balls (Green Lane products Ltd) work wonders on keeping them soft, plumb and cutting down on lint Add a teaspoon per towel distilled white vinegar as a softener, the vinegar doesn't coat the fibres but instead works to eliminate detergent residue and the acid counteracts any alkaline minerals in the water supply. Vinegar (Acetic acid, pH=2) works well in the rinse cycle to make your towels softer. Detergent is an alkaline (pH=12, the opposite of acidic on the pH scale).When you wash your towels (or anything for that matter) there are small amounts of detergent left behind, when your add Vinegar it balances the pH of the solution and helps removes the excess detergent from the wash. Do not wash micro fibre cloths / towels with other non- micro fibre fabrics, as they will pick up lint from other fabrics. Air dry or you can dry micro fibre cloths / towels in any dryer on low heat, remove them before they are still damp (cuts down on static charge) Colours may bleed during first washing. Information resource- (http://www micofibertech.com
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