TOGWT

CG = Chemical Guy's They produce car car products for re-sellers (approx 70% ? of market)

The lens has a silicone-based coating applied to its outer surface, some manufacturers apply two different types of coatings to the outer surface of the lens, these coatings are mainly for UVR protection, but are also for impact and abrasion resistance, once the coating (s) fail the lens surface will occlude (clouding or yellowing) While most of the cloudiness is on the surface, severely discoloured lens cannot be brought back to optical clarity. If you live in a southern state, this discoloration can become noticeable in as little as two-years. Application Methodology: •Use a solvent type cleaner (Klasse or Zaino All-In-One) if this does not remove the oxidation use a plastic polish •Meguiar’s PlastX contains a microscopic diminishing abrasive, which requires a little pressure when applying it to enable these abrasives to remove the discoloured plastic and expose new plastic. Or Renovo Plastic Cleaner •Plastic Cleaners can be used to clean and condition Perspex as well as flexible plastic but is not suitable for use on glass. •Prior to application of a plastic polish ensure that the window is clean and free from dust particles by washing with a soft cloth and warm water. •It is not advisable to use cleaning detergents on plastic. •Shake the bottle thoroughly. Plastic polish can be hand or machine applied •Using a random orbital buffer with a 3.5-inch backing plate and a 4-inch (LC White) polishing pad or a terry cloth applicator •Place a small dab (about ½-inch diameter) of plastic polish on the foam pad or applicator. •Place the pad on the lens surface and turn on the machine (speed #4) •Polish the lens repeatedly in a left-to-right and an up and down pattern. •Continue polishing until all the polish is gone •Wipe the lens with a damp Microfiber towel •Inspect the lens, repeat the polishing process 2-3 times as necessary •Plastic polish will not remove clarity defects that are within the plastic but it will remove external/surface scratching and oxidation (yellowing) Alternative products- a) Novus 1 - gently cleans all plastics without scratching, leaves a lustrous shine that resists fogging, repels dust, and eliminates static. Novus 2 - removes fine scratches, haziness, and abrasions from most plastics (exceptional for removing scratches from Plexiglas). Use repeatedly and restore faded and discoloured plastics. Novus 3 -removes heavy scratches and abrasions from most acrylic surfaces. Contains abrasives, not for use on eyeglasses, polycarbonate, or coated plastics, final finishing also requires the use of Novus 2 http://www.modernplastics.com. B) This simple, easy to use product cleans, brightens and protects even the dullest headlights, also works great on taillights, the plastic windows in convertible tops, instrument panels, and motorcycle windscreens.DA2030 Shine Restorer Protector- http://www.rightlook.com/index.asp?PageAct...&ProdID=167 c) Lensrenew - http://www.lensrenew.com/plastic_headlight_restoration.htm Wet-sanding- some OEM headlights have a coating applied this coating does not respond well to sanding test a small inconspicuous area. If the plastic starts to turn white, do not sand the lenses. Use a plastic polish (see Plastic Polishing) When sanding the lens ensure that you sand in one direction only. It's important to keep the lines as straight and uniform as possible as they are often still slightly visible even after polishing. Providing the lines are in one direction you’ll never notice them once the acrylic coating is evenly applied. Otherwise random sanding lines will distort the light beam and become a distraction Product specific - Rightlook.com makes dull, yellowed headlights look like new with Clear Lights Headlight Restoration Kit. This simple, easy to use system cleans, brightens and protects even the dullest headlights. The Clear Lights Kit also works well on taillights, the plastic windows in convertible tops, instrument panels, emergency vehicle light bars, and motorcycle windscreens. (This is a professional product for multi-use, retail approx. $200)

Best wax or Sealant: Is there a best? In my opinion- No! While its true many of the chemicals used in the formulation of car care products are the same (or at least very similar) Having used a variety of different products I can tell one from another and field testing shows that not all have the durability either, some simply out perform others in many categories and react differently when applied to different paint types, colours, or varied paint surface conditions. Ultimately the best wax or sealant will prove to be the one that best meets its user's objectives. If a product is not working for you experiment until you find one that’s suitable for your needs. There is no one product that can produce all of the properties for an optically perfect shine, however; for high surface gloss and surface reflectance-a polymer sealant, which also provides durability. Detailing enthusiasts consider shine as only one attribute of a protective wax or sealant. They are equally concerned with; ease of application, resistance to abrasion, atmospheric contamination and weathering. a) For depth of shine and a ‘wet-look’ - Carnauba wax (also provides a sacrificial and easily renewable barrier against airborne contaminants. B) For an optically perfect shine, clarity, long term durability and protection apply a polymer sealant (Zaino Z2PRO™ + ZFX™ Flash Cure Accelerator Additive) to a carefully prepared level, clean paint surface and add a Carnauba wax or Zaino Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal as a (LSP) last step product. c) The aesthetics of a vehicle appearance is very subjective to say the least, the only best wax or sealant that really matters is what looks 'best' to you. d) Process not Product -The final result can only be as good as the surface it’s applied to. It really is all dependants upon; 85% preparation, 5% product, 7% application method and the balance is in the ‘guy’ of the beholder. (A detailer’s skill level is also extremely important)

Here are some tips I found online and I ran them past the guys at the detailing shop where I take my GS300. They agreed with them. As for brands, everyone has their favorite but the important thing is the process. Check it out: Get an automotive clay bar, and run it along every body panel. This pulls out all sorts of nasty road debris that can barely be felt by your hand but does roughen the texture of the paint, leading to a flatter finish. Polish the car using a good polish. Wax is not polish, so don't confuse the two. Polish will remove oxidation that dulls the paint, and will smooth out all of the deformities that are left over after the clay bar pulls the crap out of the paint. Wax the car. Do that once a year and your car's paint will be smoother than a baby's butt and your paint will stay looking great. I'd give credit to the source but I can't remember where I got it. Given that bgpilot's car is brand new and just purchased a few days ago, would he really need to use a clay bar and polish? When the car comes off the assembly line, doesn't Lexus put some kind of protection on the car. You would think so because they and the dealerships would want the cars to look good in order to sell them?? If polish removes oxidation, and his car is new and no oxidation to speak of, does the polish remove some of the top coating ? Wouldn't a good washing and then waxing be appropriate for a brand new car? I'm new and just got my ES at the end of March so I'm interested as well. thanks. Even new cars that have been setting on a car dealerships lot for a few weeks can accumulate contamination that bonds to the paint surface; don't assume a vehicle that looks good is contamination free. Acid rain, road salt, tree sap and airborne contaminants are very detrimental to a vehicles paint film surface. Brake dust or rail dust is very small, almost microscopic particles of steel, iron or their alloys. These particles carry a positive charge (due to friction) while the vehicles they land on are carrying a negative charge. The vehicle surface becomes a magnet, attracting and bonding the ferrous metal particles to the vehicle surface. Regardless of how clean you think your paint is there are still bonded contaminants on the paint that you need to remove before pre-wax cleaning, polishing or applying a protection to your paint film surface. Use automotive detailing clay to remove; road dirt / grime, bituminous resin (tar) grease, tire rubber, bug debris, bird excrement, tree resin (sap) rail and brake dust, paint over spray, hard water (mineral) deposits, industrial fall-out (IFO) road salt (small particles become imbedded and bond to the surface)

IMO the new 'Green' waterless wash product will replace bucket / hose washing in the very near future. Waterless Car Washing: When sprayed on a dirty surface, surfactants break down the dirt, by releasing its bond it with the surface, encapsulating the soil particles, the polymers provide surface lubrication to enable safe (marring free) removal Use a Monster Fluffy towel for washing. Take one towel and wet it with as per directions. Wring it out and make a single pass per clean side of the towel. You can get 4-8 passes, with the towel folded in quarters. Each pass is then done with a perfectly clean towel surface and you're never rinsing any dirt out and releasing it in to your wash or rinse water. You can do the whole car with 2-4 towels. Apply no pressure to the towel, just glide it over the surface and only make one pass in one direction with a clean towel surface. Products- Monster Fluffy towel - http://www.detailersparadise.com/_system/_.../qryDefault.asp Freedom Waterless Car Wash http//:www.exceldetail.com (See also Optimum No Rinse (ONR), Quick Easy Wash (QEW)

Inspection Lighting-to inspect the paint finish for surface marring - Sunlight, Xenon, 500W halogen, and high pressure sodium-vapour (parking lot lights) Brinkmann - most LED’s merely glow, but Rebel's highly efficient, finely focused lens casts a 40-ft. beam of far-reaching light. Fish-eye-shaped lens focuses the light from the single white LED bulb into a bright, consistent beam; no dark spot in the beam's centre, the LED bulb is nearly indestructible and draws very little power, greatly extending battery life; runs on two AA batteries, included, a tough ABS plastic is armoured with thick, no-slip rubber grips Push-button on/off switch inset in the back cap Product specific - Brnkmann, REI - http://www.rei.com/product/47576705.htm

I have nothing against Meguiars products, but I don’t use them and will only recommend what I have first-hand experience of. Check to see if it contains Carnauba wax, if it does do not use it on 'fresh' paint. Silicone is used in car care products for many things amongst them lubrication (spreadability)

B) Newly re- painted vehicle- 1. Oil-based paint, lacquer or enamel and low solids paint systems were formulated with solvents (30-80% dependant upon manufacturer) The volatile organic compounds (VOC) in modern automotive paints are now greatly reduced due to recent legislation, which greatly decreases the amount of out-gassing. 2. Newly applied paint needs to dry and the solvents need to (out-gas) evaporate for sixty to ninety days (60-90) to enable the paint off gassing and aerobic curing, if the paint is covered with a conventional wax or sealant it will arrest the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process. Sealing paint before it has completely out-gassed will result in permanently soft paint. (See also Paint Curing) 3. Water-based high solid/low solvent and urethane paints used by PPG Industries, DuPont Chemicals, and BASF Aktiengesellschaft and most other paint manufacturers are not as chemically resistant as the older paint systems as they are porous, but do not require time for the gas off (evaporate) /cure aerobic process., as they are either catalyzed (i.e. a chemical process that cures paint) or oven-dried. But I would suggest waiting for approximately ten to fifteen days before any product application, which should be more than sufficient time to enable paint off gassing and aerobic curing. Professional painters add chemicals; accelerants and compounds to their paint mix prior to painting to improve flexibility, reduce paint imperfections, increase hardness, improve gloss and reduce curing times. 4. Applied after polishing, a glaze is the make-up that hides flaws and gives paint the sheen it had in the showroom. The common ingredients in a’ fresh paint safe’ glaze are: water, glycerine (to produce a high shine) amino-functional mineral oils, solvent, and mild abrasive Kaolin (China clay) to burnish the surface and produce a gloss, they exclude silicone and wax, some polymers are also formulated as ‘fresh paint safe’ 5. The application of a specific “fresh paint safe” polymer type product, Zanio Z Polishes (exclude the use of either Z1 or ZFX™) or Klasse, allow for an ‘initial gas off’ (evaporative aerobic) process of seven (7) days before application. These products are completely safe for any fresh paint system as they allow the solvents in an oil-based paint to outgas and provide some protection for any type of paint surface. After approx. thirty days (30) the paint surface can be protected with a regular polymer sealant and/or Carnauba wax. (See also Notes below) 6. Abrasive polish should be avoided until the paint has cured (usually 24 hours) an abrasive polish will not necessarily harm the soft new paint but unless it’s absolutely necessary I would avoid it. Vehicle washing is encouraged but avoid car wash concentrates that contain any harsh detergents, alkali, acids or wax (recommended products- Zaino Z-7™ Show Car Wash, Groit’s Car Wash) also avoid car washes that uses a high-pressure spray or wax or harsh detergents. Notes: 1.Do not use a car cover until the paint is fully cured 2.A paint film surface is a delicate thin coating easily dulled and very easily scratched, so choose carefully the advice you listen to and most importantly what advice you act upon. 3.The body-shop / paint manufactures know their products; seek their advice so as not to void any warranty. Paint manufacturer have specific technical guidelines on how to use their products to affect a warranted spot/panel/ repairs or a full repaint. This preserves both the paint manufactures and factory warranty. 4.Some Carnauba waxes contains paraffin wax, which effectively ‘seals’ the paint surface more than a polymer due to its formulation.

Foam Spray Gun: To remove soils the surface tension that bonds them must be released, then the soils encapsulated and held in suspension to be rinsed away without redeposit or leaving a residue. The low surface tension improves the cleaning process by increasing the surface wetting ability; this provides a more intimate contact between the surface and the cleaning agents. Question-How can you remove abrasive dirt from a paint film surface without causing marring/scratches? (Butchers® Shower Foam Gun - http://www.messnerinc.com/webapp/catalog/p...em=BAQ-4165900) Fill the container with a quality car wash solution (Stage One Prewash-http://www.stratmosphere.com/STAGE/index.htm, Zymol Clear or Zaino Z7 Car Wash) preferably one that that contains an amino functional surfactants; this is defined as a material that can greatly reduce the surface tension of water when used in very low concentrations Mixing liquid soap (preferably one that contains glycerine or oil(s) to provide lubrication) and water, and them adding air will produce foam, which becomes a Sequestant / Surfactant [: to hold in solution) which encapsulates the soils (dirt / grit / etc) and enables their removal without intimate contact with the paint surface, minimizing surface marring or scratches. By using a pH balanced ( 7.5) to help preserve your wax /sealant ) foam wash will help to remove damaging dirt particles from your paint it's also provides a cushion (foam) to enable a towel to glide just above the surface to avoid rubbing any dirt /grit into your paint finish. Methodology- Select a suitable dilution setting of the five available. Take your time and flow the foam over each panel, allow to dwell for about 10 minutes or so, then agitate with a sheepskin mitt or a foam core waffle weave Microfiber towel using the foam gun in one hand, and the mitt in the other, once all of the panels have been completed, rinse vehicle with clean water and dry thoroughly.

Two buckets with grit guard Car Wash concetrate Firemans hose nozzle OR Optimum no rinse (ONR) Wash mitts (2) Waffle Weave drying towels Microfiber towels

I'm not sure if this car has stuff on it prior to the purchase Megs DACP should do it. If your unsure of what 'stuff' is on the surface wipe down with a 1:1 solution f distilled water / IPA

Yes you can 'spot' polish' I don't know what products you have to hand but always use the least agressive first.

Urine Stain (on wheel surface): May appear as a cloudy splash mark on the wheel surface, usually the wheel parked close to the kerb and caused by an animal marking its territory urine contains Uric Acid (ph 5.0) and should be neutralised as soon as feasible as acid is a corrosive and will etch and discolour and/or stain the surface. Methodology •Use an alkaline solution of baking soda/water to neutralize the acid. •Thoroughly rinse wheels with an alkaline wheel cleaner (P21S Wheel Cleaner) •Rinse thoroughly with low-pressure clean water •If necessary use a polish to restore the lustre of polished metal and prevent re-oxidation (Iz Einszett® Metal Polish "Chrompflege) and remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel •Use a one-step product (Klasse All-In-One) to provide both cleaning and long-term polymer protection; this will also make future cleaning easier. •Apply with a damp applicator; remove residue with a clean, dry micro fibre towel, and finally buff surface to a shine.

Opinion = Not necessarily fact or fiction but usually highly subjectiveFactual information niether opinion nor theory - Optimum No Rinse (ONR) a waterless wash; formulated with surfactants to keep dirt in suspension, avoiding surface contact, it also provides surface lubrication thereby avoiding surface marring.

Surface Temperature (Actual surface temperature of the vehicle, without direct sunlight) between 50 (10oC) and 80oF (26oC) products will work well within a much broader temperature range, i.e. 45° to 90° F (4.5-32oC) but at 45 degrees it will take much longer to dry, perhaps as much as two to three hours) but the best results will be achieved in the 60° to 70° F (15-21oC) range surrounding air temp (ambient or room) must be 55oF (12oC) + to ensure the minimum vehicle surface temperature of 50oF (10oC) which is recommended as a minimum by most car care product manufacturers Leather cleaning / conditioning in 'cold' weather is just exercise for your arms

A Klasse compatable quick detailing (QD) spray - Autopia Sonus Acrylic Spritz

A fibreboard washer also comes with the machine; it is intended to fit between the backing pad and the spindle, so that it gives additional clearance between the pad and unit so getting the wrench in between them is easier. Some PCs come with this washer pre-installed on the backing pad, but often it's loose in a plastic bag.

While doing some research for an article, these are some of the chemicals used in some carwashes. If you get a chance, attend a car wash / wax vendors symposiums where they give demonstrations of the different soap products that these type of facilities use, as a Chemical Engineer they scare me.. You'll come away a convert to never using them again, on any vehicle. Hydrofluoric Acid (SiO2): Cleaning paint (inc wheel surfaces) - ten or more years ago this method was widely used by body-shops and detailers to remove water spots from paint surfaces, however, as time progressed, we started to see metallic paints darken under the clear coat. Hydrofluoric acid is also notoriously known to react with glass. On factory aluminium wheel surfaces, acrylic polyurethane finishes or polyester powdered coatings it will occlude (cloud) an indication that the finish surface has been compromised, it also produces micro hairline cracks, and will eventually fail. Most of the larger automotive paint suppliers (PPG, DuPont and BASF) do not recommend this type of chemical to be used on their paints. Stating that the acid, even if thoroughly flushed with water had already compromised the clear coat and given time would also compromise the paint system, dependant on the environment the vehicle was subjected, to over a period of 2-3 years it was possible that the clear coat would occlude (cloud) indicative of clear coat failure as the acid breaks down the paints binder system. It also has the unique ability to dissolve almost all inorganic oxides. In the human body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with calcium and damages nerves, bone, and several organs including the heart and kidneys. It has an NFPA health rating of 3; Short exposure could cause serious temporary or residual injury even though prompt medical attention was given Note: Muriatic acid is also a form of hydrochloric acid. Safety / health information- http://www.safetyline.wa.gov.au/institute/...re76/l76_01.asp Information resource - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid Note: Do not confuse hydrochloric acid (HCI) with hydrofluoric (HF) acid because of the similarity of names. On the skin, hydrochloric acid burns from the outside in. Hydrofluoric acid solution readily penetrates the skin and burns both skin and deeper tissues. If enough acid is absorbed, it may lethally affect the heart and nervous system. Ammonium hydrogen fluoride NH4HF2 (or Ammonium bifluoride) is misclassified as the safe alternative to hydrogen fluoride, once mixed with water it becomes hydrogen fluoride one of the most common, and dangerous, acid wheel cleaners used in automatic carwashes today. Its effectiveness removing brake dust and difficult contaminants from wheels is undisputed, but most chemists say Ammonium bifluoride presents an unjustifiable and potentially lethal risk to carwash operators and their employees. Ammonium bifluoride sometimes known as ammonium fluoride or ammonium hydrogen fluoride is a crystalline salt formed when ammonium hydroxide reacts with hydrogen fluoride. Through a complicated chemical reaction, it essentially becomes hydrogen fluoride when mixed with water or liquid cleaning solutions. Similar to hydrogen fluoride, Ammonium bifluoride was originally developed for industrial uses, like etching glass, removing oxides from metals and eliminating mineral stains from stone, glass and porcelain (See also Water acting as a catalyst for Acid, Hydrogen Fluoride (SiO2) Information resource- Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia.org/ Professional Carwashing & Detailing Magazine - http://www.carwash.com/article.asp?IndexID=6631269

Anti-Static Detail Spray: Finish Kare- 425 Spray Detailer – http:// www.fk1usa.com is produced with polymer resins, lubricants, Ulra violet radiation (UVR) inhibitors and patented anti-static agents that gently remove fingerprints, smudges, and other light contaminates while creating reduced dust attraction. For use on paint, glass, chrome, gel coat, fibreglass and Plexiglas (See also Car Duster) Note- the use of polyester towels and friction on any surface will cause static, this can be avoided by using a 100% cotton towel (http//:www.DFTowel.com) Maintenance- use a car duster, gently wiping (with negligible pressure) in one direction only FWIW: Finish Kare are a well established company with some very innovative products...junk-I think not

Information resource- http://www.tintdude.com and http://www.formulaonetinting.com/tint_automotive.asp For laws regulating the percentage of tint allowed (US and Canada) - http://www.llumar.com/na-eng/Automotive/auto-tint-laws.html Most states legislate windshields and front windows have to transmit 70% of light (this is normally the way the glass comes from the mfg.)

HAPPY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND YOURS Peace - http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=0212320003

I agree :) Having read the MSDS this stuff is somewhat scary even for an adult. It does what it says it will but at what risk? Seriously check the MSDS http://www.pgbrands.com/pages/cleaners/msd...agic_Eraser.pdf Knowledge - [We know a subject] [We know where to find information on it] the most highly valued; [knowledge that is both held and shared]

This removed a spilled bottle of blue dye (the type you wash clothes in to re-colour) Alternative products- Heavy ink stains can be removed with Leather Masters - Leather Ink Killer This is a very strong cleaner, which could remove the leather dye, therefore use with extreme caution. http://www.topoftheline.com/leather-repair-products.html

OP is not specific to vehicle marque, Ford, MB, Porsche, Lexus, et al, but varies according to some or all of the reasons stated in my prior post {Knowledge; don't ever stop learning; [always keeping an open mind]

Orange Peel- is paint film surface that has a dimpled appearance that paint takes on due to an equipment/operator caused defect. Like wrong paint-gun pressure and/or distance from panel, an operator not knowing how to set-up the equipment for that particular type of paint, or even a partly blocked paint-gun nozzle, improper pre-paint preparation and /or paint application, or uneven drying of the clear coat. It is eliminated after the final shooting of clear coat by wet sanding the paint film surface, and polishing with a mildly abrasive polish and a high-speed rotary polisher. Correction- it can also be removed by wet-sanding (colour sanding) If this is a new car you might have a warrenty issue, see your dealership Knowledge; [ability to correctly diagnosis problems] [utilizing appropriate methods / products to solve them]