lexfourcam

the car doesnt look too bad man, these people next to me, they fix cars that look like they need to be crushed. so did something happen to the steering rack? sorry to hear about your car. goodluck on the new car search.

you guys just reminded me i have a 500 dollar 4870x2 graphics card in my room i need to rma. i built this sick liquid cooled desktop, probably a few years ago. had an intel quad core overclocked it from 2.4ghz to 3ghz and the fsb was at 1333mhz. (remember this was a couple of years ago) the ram was ddr2 and it was clocked at 1060mhz, and holy *BLEEP* was that thing fast. there wasnt anything you could do to stop it. it also ran at 96 degrees fahrenheit idling of course. never went above 120 under full load. also had 3 hard drives 2 160s and one 320. tried to get the 2 160s in raid but it was too complicated. damn ati and their expensive malfunctioning equipment.

well i would take it back to that shop, and show them. i wouldn't let them talk you into saying its this or that. if they fixed this car 6 months ago it shouldnt have a problem. i would also check the coolant resevoir cap. if the rubber washer is flaking its not properly sealed off and it might cause the pump to leak. it could be possible that they didnt seal the pump off right with the gasket and that red gasket stuff. but definitly dont let that shop walk all over you, they're trying to get money out of you.

they're just pioneer competition 12 inch subs. my original setup was with a power acoustik 1600 watt powering the 2 pioneer comps they are 1000 watt each 400 watt rms, but the champion was ran by a sony xplod mono amp. the xplod amp was also 1600 watt and i later found out the rms on the amp is 650 and the rms on the champion was 450 and the max was 1200. now i know i wasnt running full power to that xplod amp but it had to be enough to make that sub blow the voice coil. now i just have those 2 pioneers, but soon im gonna get a nice capacitor and another 8 inch kicker sub, i have one and im gonna make a box for the back seat, these speakers hit lows really good for some reason but the 12s have a wide range. one day i'll probably get another 12 inch sub and another mono amp, but that'll be a while from now.

ive had my powerbook g4 for a while and love it. it never messes up, it does get hot, but nothing that a lil fan control program couldn't solve. i doubt that a dual core intel will get as hot as a power pc processor though, so it wont not even be an issue. congrats on your new purchase, macs operating system is great. the right click will work if you just hold down control.

the solenoid can be seen after you take out the transmission pan i believe. you might have to unhook the exhaust pipes. but this could very well be something electrical. my cars had plenty of problems with sensors and bad wiring.

o yea one more thing the you need to buy rca cables and they hook into the back of your aftermarket head unit. they're long and you run them to the trunk from the back of the radio. (you should just get a amp wiring kit for about 60 bucks a nice one it'll come with everything you need)

You can hook up an aftermarket sub on your own. you just have to wire your car for the amp you're running. i would recommend getting pretty thick wire if you're gonna plan on making it bump. i've got 2 12s now my 3rd one blew...i miss my champion, but now ive just got one 1600 watt amp powering the 2 12s and its pretty loud. i really need a capacitor though, it will dim your lights pretty bad and will eventually end up killing your alternator. but when you wire it the floor panels come off, they pop in and out run the wires underneath the carpet to the back. if you take the rear seat out there are a few plates you can pop out to run wires through for your amplifier. look on lex ls for taking out the backseat and they have arrows for the plates. for the firewall there will be a plastic piece that holds a few wires right by the driver side wheel well underneath the hood, run your power cable from your battery from your fuse (get a anl fuse block) through the firewall and pop that circular plastic piece out and run the wire through there. you need a power cable, a ground which will be wired to the trunk, a remote wire (make sure you have an aftermarket radio you can hook it up to the stock but they will wire it to your fuse box...bad idea), and some speaker wire to hook your subs to your amplifier. and sorry if you knew all this, or if anything i said doesnt make any since let me help clarify it.

Where exactly is it leaking anti-freeze from? It could be your water pump, or you could just have a cracked hose, better get that diagnosed.

is your car throwing a check engine light? could possibly be a solenoid going bad in the tranny. does it skip gears sometimes?

we dont have emissions testing down here in FL. but the police dont like it when your car is loud thats for sure. i cant wait till i get the exhaust re-done. its gonna be a lot quieter hopefully.

yea i went outside and i was just as stumped as you, i was like this is not going to work, but the car runs fine without the maf hooked up. i do know that its probably gonna run rich because it doesnt have a sensor to tell it how much air is coming in. i remember when this sensor first went bad my car would stumble, but it runs fine doesnt stumble or idle rough.

so today i unplugged my maf, and holy *BLEEP* did she run amazing. i !Removed! raped this guy in my neighborhood and he was like i'll try not to dust you next time because we'd raced one time when my car was off time and had 3 or 4 other problems. an i was like you wont because my car will be fixed by then. hahaha i bet he went home and cried...still dont kno if its the maf itself or the connector. the connector is very cracked up gonna test it with a volt meter, but wow guys it runs like it should now. if it is the connector though how in the hell would i replace it?

sounds to me like over drive is not engaging. try to completetly let off the gas then put your foot back on the gas lightly. does that make it shift to a lower rpm?

thanks, im gettin the exhaust re-done pretty soon, x pipe and some borla mufflers. took a video with my phone of my old setup but the mic just sounds terrible.

well tonight when i was driving, i tried to take off fast and wow she hauled some !Removed!! i look down and my check engine light is off. i did fix this hose on my intake, but it came back on when i started the car after i reset the ecu, and now its off. if only it would stay gone....

this problem has created such a headache for me and other people who have worked on it. my car runs great when it first fires up, but then after it warms up it just doesnt go at all. has dead spots, sputtering, and very abrupt shifts.

wow seems like your stuck in the same boat as i am. my cars engine light has come on after i replaced the o2 sensors and the cam position sensor #2. the lights stayed off one day and then they came back. the car ran pretty good though when they were off.

ive noticed i have those dead spots too, an no matter hard i push the pedal down sometimes in 1st gear it wont go above 3k rpm. it will shift into second. sometimes it'll go past but it seems like its just dead until it gets to about 4 and it seems to have its *BLEEP* together.

yea sure did, today it ran pretty good though i stomped it goin 30 and it pulled to 50 really good and shifted nice. its such a puzzle and that damn stealership wants 120 dollars for a diagnostic.

rpm sensor signal no.2 and it running lean and rich i think that's 25 and 26. 25/26 i changed the o2's and it popped off. i changed the cam sensor and reset it again, the cel's off for about a day and then it comes back on. it runs fine when the cel is off but when it comes on its running bad.

well after i had fixed the cam sensor and the o2's she ran good for about 2 days. then the cel came back on and it started to run like *BLEEP*. after i cleared the codes again it ran fine. i hope its not the ecu.... any ideas?

my car seems to run rich also, but it does fire on all cylinders. when i reset the ecu all my engine codes go away and it runs beautifully for about 2 days until it pulls up those codes again then it starts running like *BLEEP*. you dont think my ecu could be done too? i just replaced the cam sensor and the o2's, and like i said after that it ran good for 2 days then the cel light came back on and it runs like crap.

i would check your belts and make sure the proper tension is in them. could be your power steering pump about to wear out. does it whine at all?

your car is probably still off of time. i would check the crankshaft one then the cams. if you get it running make sure it fires on all cylinders. you have a non interferance motor its fine, my car jumped time once and i drove it for about 10 miles too and its fine now.