smooth1

I would definatley open the top of the motor and look for yourself first. Or have a tech do it for you. In 1996, the Fed Emmissions counsil had raised the emmissions standards, along with higher MPG standards. So car mfgr's increased the engine temps, and increased the exhaust gas recirculation systems. (EGR). They also went to much lower viscosity oils. So right around 1997 on, we started seeing alot of engine sludge issues. The oil itself was just being torched inside the blocks. Some people I've talked to reccomend moving the oil filter location and adding an oil cooler as well. Most happen under 50k miles. But I've seen it happen at 80 and 100k miles as well. If the engine is sludged, just act like you've never seen this car and just move on. It's sooooooooooooo not worth it. The valvetrain mess alone is like trying to clean the ducks during the BP gulf spill. All you can do is shake your head the entire time. If there's no sludge, and the motor really is clean, then I would say it's a keeper, and note to yourself to change the oil regularly, all the time. You should be good then.

Remove the rear seats, replace the front seats with a carbon fiber version, remove the trunk liner, spare tire, jack and tool kit. Get lighter rims. Drive down hill alot......

It's more about the care that was given during that time. But, in this case, (I'm not exactly sure what years were effected) I would check the engine sludge issue. Make sure the m The only thing I would do is negotiate the replacement of the timing belt and water pump up front. 10 years is a long time for a timing belt even if it only has 45k miles on it.

And where I'm from, there's a saying "Never bring more money to the poker table than you can afford to lose." I just buy what I want and what makes the most sense to me and my life. I think for me then, I get a much higher satisfaction feeling per dollar spent then if I had a car that I felt I made to many compromises or not thought outs but had the "Higher resale" consolation prize.

I think the key transition word here is "all" and "some". Do ALL luxury car buyers or SOME luxury car buyers care? I would have to say that some would be the truer statement. I think everyone has more or less the same list of considerations when buying a car, but each individual may have it listed in a different order of priority. I also think theres more than one type of "depreciation" to consider. For example, a Toyota 4Runner may cost $25k and will run forever and beyond and still be worth $10k in 5 years, and a Ford may cost $20K and only be worth $7k in 5 years, but if I'm only keeping it for 2 years then who cares? Get the Ford, save $5k, trade it in 2 years. Say they give you $3k less than the Toyota, your still $2k ahead. This is just a short simple example, and one I just chose to show how and why there would be good cause to go against what you might think to be a direct logic in buying, cause when it comes to cars, we buy based on desire and emotion, and not on logic and need. Atleast I'm able to admit that for myself.

stuck thermastat, in the wide open position.

Did you order a set of these for yourself?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the slide pin in the brakes was on the TSB that came out about 2 years ago, along with the fuel line fittings. You may still be eligible for the TSB. But if the TSB doesn't apply, and you need to free up that slide pin then my friend, you just need to get in there and figure out how and why it's stuck and figure out a way to get it free. I haven't used a porch before, but I have used a small propane torch and a screw driver before to try and pop it free. Also try soaking it in some brake cleaner as well. (Make sure you dry the parts real good before you hit it with the torch then!) LOL!!!

Happy New year everyone.

Hmmm, I think your referring to close/open loop operation which prioritizes the system for the sensors to come up. Did you have the heater fan on when you started the car? The smell may be coming from opening the air vents as the initial partially unburned ( the air that goes thru the first couple cranks without burning just before the engine actually starts.) Sometimes the wind can blow it right back at the car as it sucks it in the air intakes.

r u sure it's the right battery?

Welcome to the LOC.

It all depends on how good you get at putting it on. I think the most time I have spent putting it on was about 10 minutes to cover the front facing parts if the car and side view mirrors. I've only ever had it on for a couple days to a week at a time, really just for the long drive to protect the paint, and during our Love Bug season. I can't tell you how nice this stuff works for that! Mn it's saved me hours of car washing!! I put the film on, as the bugs start caking on the front of the car, I just peel that off, quick wash and rinse, then a new film goes on, and we're good for the week again.

I've been using a more temporary protective approach. I found this clear wrap that goes on somwhat like the 3M product, but you only put it on when you need it. Iv'e found for most around town driving and everyday commutes I don't use it. But when I go on a long road trip, then I just wrap the front hood line and other high potential areas. When the trip is over, I go out and pull off all the clear protective film I put on and just toss it in the trash until the next trip. The stuuf I use is this: http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/77898.do

I'm sorry to hear about your loss. You gave her a wonderful full life, I'm sure. We have a 12 year old Beagle that we know we will have to deal with this issue soon. IT's so hard to come to terms with. It's going to be a difficult period for sure.

Correct-o-mundo! Hitting the Sat button just switches the unit to that input feed. Like hooking up a CD player to a DVD input, on the front when you hit DVD it just allows the CD player to operate. You can purchase a Sirrius, or a XFM reciever and hook it up yourself as well. It's really not that hard.

Yeah, that's going to be your biggest issue. But seeing as how your going to have to tear your entire center dash apart anyway, then see if you can patch in a unit from a Cadillac or some other more readliy available parts off another model that used the same type of motorized monitor. I think if you look at a more current system from another car should be cheaper and much more reliable after all that work.

It's really hard to be able to from just that one pic. Black rims I see, but I can't see the pattern or how they look and the stance. Looks like it barely fits in your garage is the only real comment I can make. LOL!

It depends more on the offset and how low you want the stance to be. BUt I think 20's x 10 on the rear and 20x9 on the front should still leave enouph room for a pretty aggressive offset yet.

Welcome to the LOC.

Welcome to the LOC.

Welcome to the LOC.

Man have I been out of it! Happy Birthday DC!

welcome to the LOC!