smooth1

Can you make the car smoothly downshift while not in the cruise control mode? on those same roads?

I love how they use the fact that a BMW M3 is faster than a Lexus IS350 on the track, so hence it's a better car, but when the Nissan GTR smoked the M3, Z4 and any other production BMW, for about the same price, the logic no longer applies, the BMW engineering is still far supierior. Yeah, whatever. If the BMW wasn't as fast on the track as it is, then they would have nothing to point to and comfort themselves with spending all that money. Even the Corvette is actually a better buy. And boy do they hate the Vette's! And don't take me wrong. I like BMW's. I like MB, and Farrari's and even a few not so popular makes. But the truth is that in order to satisfy the widest range of comforts power, handling and style FOR THE STREET, I happen to think that Lexus does it best. It's just the right ratio of luxury to sport. And it comes with a better reliability history. If I could take Willow Springs ave, hang a right on Laguna Seca, and park it in the paddox all day while I conducted my business, then maybe I would have a different set of priorities for my everyday car.

Yeah, OEM Denso's are the best anyway. And they ain't cheap........

I haven't checked the rear bushings and sway bar. I don't understand why these going out would cause the rotor to rub. The rotor is bolted to the rear backing plate via the lug nuts? Ok, in the first picture, the disc is locked in place by the rotor and the lug nuts. There should be no rubbing issues. IF there are, then I think you were driving around with your lug nuts loose and it moved around. So long as the disc and rotor aren't structurally damaged it should be ok. You might want to check your lugs and stems to make sure they are properly holding also.

Post some pics when you get it.

Yeah, I think to many sub forums get lost. If anything we will add the C to the forum title. So post some pics of that bad boy!

Those codes usually come from the gas cap not being on tight enouph, or needing to replace the gas cap, or if the VSV valve isn't connected to the vacuume tube off the gas tank. It's right next to the air intake box. IF you just had a bunch of work done, I would bet that's the problem. Probably forgot to reconnect it.

Is your roof leaking? Maybe get inside the car and slide the cover back, while having a friend rain water on it with a hose to see if it's leaking. If it is, then take it to the dealer hand have them fix it. Should be warrentee free.......

I could not get this to work on my 09 is250. HELP!!! i presed the start button with out my foot on the brake twice then i pressed the odometer reset button for over 30 sec. Do actually press it twice? cause you said depress then hold for 10-30 sec. then i clicked the seat belt in while i keep holding the odometer reset button? or do i let go then click the seat belt in? Yeah, the instant you click the seatbelt together, the odometer display will change. So when you get in the car, pull the seatbelt around you like your going to click it home, but don't. Then hit the start button twice with your foot off the brake. This puts the car in full battery mode and not just aux. mode. Then reach to the odometer reset button and push it in for about 10-30 seconds. While still holding the button down, click the seatbelt home and the odometer display should convert to b-on. release the odometer button and press it again quickly and you will see b-off. Hit the start button to turn the car off. release the seatbelt, open the car door and close it. Then start the car without using your seatbelt. The chime will last about 30 seconds and stop now, and I don't think it chimes at all with the passenger seat anymore. If it does, it only lasts a few seconds, and then stops.

I have used the easy off method. In fact I have a tutorial in the IS forums also. It works great, and it doesn't hurt the paint at all. You will need to rewax the car afterwards though as it removes all waxes also.

Look at that cell phone!! LOL!!! And I think you got the pic for the Buick owner up there by mistake.

My friend has the bluey/black IS350 completely stock and only 9K miles on it. I have over 20k miles on mine, and I did the brake dust TSB, he has not. I've driven both. Alot. We have a new road course here in Orlando by Kami Speed. In our last time attack session, I drove my IS350, and then drove his. I used the same brake markers and lines and I couldn't tell the difference. The only difference I felt was the obvious suspension. Mine has alot less nose dive and body roll, which helped make my time almost a full second faster. So, I can only think the "feel" difference is maybe a bit less bite, but overall, the car will still be stopped in about the amount of distance.

What is the BEST method to diagnose the head gasket? Compression test...Chemical test or Infrared test...Pressure test? I've been told that chemical and infrared tests are the best way to diagnose whether or not the head gasket is blown or if there is internal issues with the engine! Thank you! A compression test will only tell you there is a leak, but a chemical test will tell you there's a leak and where the leak is.

Well, to be honest, I would first get it fully diagnosed and find out what happened and what exactly are your options. There are still to many questions to answer before anyone can give you any real usable advice. Is the block cracked or did you just drop a cylinder? Did you timing belt let go and maybe you just crunched up your valves? Did you crack the head? Just saying your engine is toast isn't really giving anyone anything to go by. What exactly is broken about the motor? And don't be freakin out. Theres alot of things that sound like a huge big deal, but really aren't as bad as you might think.

You've got me confused. Can you take pics and post them so I can see what your talking about? Have you checked all your bushings and sway bar?

Sounds like a head gasket. But from your description it could be alot of things. My advice is to take it to a mechanic and have it properly diagnosed as I can't look under the hood myself and see. Then post what they have to say and we can go from there.

I use Griot's stuff. I think they have the best quick detailer spray out, polishes and car shampoo. I also really like the Griot's orbital buffer and foam pads, and I use their MF towels. I used to use their paint sealant and wax, but I've since switched to Danase. I really like how that looks and it seems to last alot longer. But all of thier stuff is good.

Are you running stock headers? What diameter are the headers? If you are running stock headers, then I would think you should put the x pipe back on, and match the diameter of your piping to the diameter of the header. Unless your running forced induction, or increased your RPM's, your already getting enouph exhaust flow. The stock headers are tuned to the exhaust valves. The sonic wave traveling down the pipe is what moves the air out faster. Imagine wind chimes being struck. The larger the metal tube, the lower the note it makes. The smaller the tube, the higher the note. That sound is caused by vibrations, and how fast those vibrations are moving. Faster vibrations create higher pitches and slower vibrations are obviuosly lower. Your exhaust system works much the same way, only it uses the sound vibrations to carry the air out. So maintaining the same diameter has it's benifits. Then I would look for a smaller canister mufflers to give you the sound you want. And before you think that a smaller muffler will create more back pressure, it won't. The baffles inside a muffler are what create more backpressure and keep the exhaust quieter. You can still get a full flow canister, just look for smaller ones. It's probably good that you didn't like the results. Just deleting the x pipe could result in burning up your exhaust valves. Going to a true dual system takes knowing what your doing. The X pipe balances the exhaust flow, and meters it. They didn't put that x pipe on there in the first place with out a good reason.

Because exhaust isn't just about the amount of air you can move, but how well the air flows thru it. You can't just piece together an exhaust system if you don't know what your doing and expect a certian result. You have to tune your exhaust to work with your goals, and know what components and configurations will produce more torque, better flow, and sound. Which by the way is sometimes a compromise.

The chrome flaking has nothing to do with it's ability to hold air. You must have a crack somewhere, or the rims themselves don't have a very good bead seat for the tires to sit inside the rim lip which is letting out some air. Either way, yeah, you need new rims.

?????????

Yeah, I walked over to the detailing bays and looked at the towels they wipe every car down with, I'm pretty sure they came with a grit rating on the package... And I'm sure all the people that work in that department graduated from car detailing school and are probably paid top dollar over minimum wage coupled with years of experience flippin burgers and mowing lawns. There's no way on God's green earth would I ever let them touch my car! If you could see the paint finish on my car, and compare it to a car that was "detailed" by a dealer after just 6 months, you would be shocked! :o

Just search around, you'll find them. They sell them seperately as a part unto itself. Basically it's 2 metal rings with 3 holes drilled in em to match the mounting fitment. They are designed to reinforce the contact point of the strut and the frame of the car.

Here's a link to a thread I did that covers the install and how it looked once it was in. Page 2 Modifying an IS300 Chronicles

Yes, all the OEM radios fit in all the years. ( For the US IS 300 version.) I've swapped an 02 for an 05 twice with no problem. But, for a few more bucks I would go with a Pioneer Avic aftermarket head unit. Then you can have touchscreen access and menus, siirus or Xfm, Ipod interconnect, watch DVD's, Nav, and a back up camera. A couple wire mods and it looks stock! The stock radios have a known CD player issue. The 05 did address that, but most of the radios I see are around 4-500 bucks, used. For an extra hundred or two, you can get an AVIC brand new.