eatingupblacktop

How low did it go? If you've got crap at the bottom of your tank and you decide to run your car on fumes, then you're only asking for trouble. You're polluting everything from the tank down the line . Easiest test is to check the gas in the filter. Check for purity (no sediments, water or colour). Btw, if you've ever been near a marina, you will often notice fuel that's leaked from one of the boats. It sits on top of the water in its rainbow splendour, mostly means if you have any water in the tank, it'll be at the bottom and sucked up along with any sediment. If you decide to check the tank, be carefull. First pump out all remaining fuel. Check it's appearance. If you find dirty fuel, and decide to clean the tank, you'll have to make sure all the remaining fuel is removed, take the tank off the car, use an appropriate cleaner and follow proper cleaning, rinsing, drying techniques. A good rad shop can advise you or do it for you. I would make sure the chemicals they/you use are Lexus compatible. You can check with your dealer to fnd out. You might run an injector cleaner as well since it's possible you've fouled them as well. Finally, never run the tank low. In addition to stressing out your FP as VB mentions, you're also entering the KRAMER SYNDROME!!!! No joy there!

Was at the dealer today picking up some supplies. There will be only 10 LFA's for Canadian dealer showrooms in 2012. Cars will go to the highest bidders! DEALERS BIDDING! :chairshot: Can only imagine what kind of profit the speculators will get when they flip these cars!

All glass is not equal. Otherwise we'd all own crystal & diamonds. Besides the probs in optics, cheap glass is also more susceptible to pitting and cracks. Always push your insurance for oem replacement and if they won't cover the entire amount, I would make up the difference out of your own pocket for the satisfaction of getting quality glass!

Billy, it ain't pretty but here's what it would look like: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=332581 You can imagine the valve stems! :chairshot:

Welcome to the LOC and congrats on the new car! As for alignment settings, it's really 6 of one and half dozen of the other and depends mostly on how you drive. If you do mostly freeway travel, 0 camber would be ideal for traction on the straights and for stopping ability. You'd lose rubber on the exits ramps though unless you took them slow. Here's a segment from Tirerack you might find interesting: More here: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

Depending where it's at now, you might lower tire pressure some. Tread design, compound, structure, etc all have an influence on the ride and noise level. In the end, whether you like the 17" look or not, sidewall prob has the greatest impact. I'm sure Primacy would be a good bet for improving your ride.

For what it's worth, here's a description of "Directional" radial tires: Cross rotation concerns with: different camber settings resulting in unusual wear patterns, shifting belts, separation of belts because of air bubbles created, vibrations, blow outs, were prevalent with older radial tires. I'm not sure the manufacturers have the same concerns with today's modern radial. However, some high performance tires do come with directional arrows embossed on the sidewall indicating in which direction they should be rotating. Nevertheless, I would agree with Steverino, 1990's "favorite person on this forum" in that, if the tire has been designated as "directional" and the alignment is spot on, then the tires should be rotated on the same side if for no other reason than the tread blocks are likely designed for maximum water dispersal in only one direction. Although, it could be interesting to see what happens when mixing sizes as well as sides?:chairshot: Hell, you can even change direction of tires without cross rotating them! :whistles:

It's geat when the answer is right there in front of you isn't it! Should be like that all the time!

I've never seen anyone jump off a bridge either! Does that mean it doesn't happen? Why are they retrofitting every major bridge with barriers? Decorations I guess. ... exactly ... which is why I said: ... "proper" meaning replacing all the ancillary parts w the TB! Keep in mind, that in discussing the finer points of whether an engine is vvt/interference or not, belts not showing signs of wear, bulletproof heavy duty big and beefy (love that description) Lexus parts, etc., one enters the "Kramer Syndrome" from whence there is no returning! A void is a void is a void!

... changes in the layout? ... don't think I've noticed any changes ... Hey, am I missing out on something here? How do I get this "new format"? Is there a special button or secret code?

Sorry to hear about your probs. Once you're done the repairs, I'd use some LC20 from Lube Control to help clean and maintain the engine, rings, and seals. Besides keeping the cooling system in top form, with the sludge issues the ES has had, I'd make sure the crankcase is well ventilated by cleaning/replacing the pcv regularly.

If the TB was done right 8 mths ago, the pulleys/tensioner would not be seizing because they would have been replaced at that time along w the pump and any wet seals, etc. Otherwise, as you have described it, the work wasn't done properly and now has to be corrected just 8mths later. As Sean mentions, always, ask for any parts that have been replaced and inspect them to verify the invoice! Here's a primer that might help: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=343752

Who cares if an engine is vvt or not ... do the proper tb service on time and leave the guessing and headaches to the yokels.:chairshot: The satisfaction of squeezing a few extra miles out of a belt disappears quickly when you're looking at bent valve stems and punctured pistons or at the least becoming a Nowhere Man needing a tow. You can read up some other posts on belts and interference: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mode=linearplus http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=357332 http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=340772

Unless the shims are distorted beyond recognition (which can happen from the heat when calipers seize), clean (even sand/scrape off separating/blistered layers) and reuse. Make sure you apply the grease appropriately. Something I always do is to bleed the fluid from the calipers when compressing the pistons rather than sending the fluid back up the lines. Fluid closest to the pistons gets cooked and should be replaced. If you find you need to use a C clamp because they're stiff, then you might want to service the piston first. They should slide in with relatively little effort. A screw driver with a block of wood/dowel should do the trick easily.

Hey Silver,You must be a racing maniac to need new a whole set of new pads after only 20K! :chairshot: Curious & 1990 have given you what you need to know. One slight departure from my perspective/experience. Imo machining a disc is never warranted. It only removes useable material and makes the disc thinner each time thus shortening it's lifespan. If the rotor is warped, it needs to be replaced period! If the rotor is scored, new pads will acommodate the groove in short order and everything will work as it should. If you have a high point, machining will even out the rotor for only the next 2-3K, then you'll have the imperfection back again. When necessary replace the disc, fluid, service the calipers, shims, sliding pins etc., and you will have the buttery smooth braking as per new. If you can diy (and I strongly suggest anyone with even the slightest aptitude to learn the howto) you will save a bundle and always have perfect braking. It's worth the time and little effort to learn about your braking system - the most important system on your car and also the most likely to be overbilled by just about any shop that thinks you know nothing about your car!

Brenda, Have your RX checked for abs/vehicle speed sensor dtc's.

First of all, welcome to the LOC! agreed If you have a documented and verifiable history on this car, I would say this would be a point of negotiation with the seller. These are items that needed to be replaced because of breakdown, and don't necessarily indicate that the car has been well maintained. A well maintained car would have had the TB done at 90K and have all related service documentation. Put this together with: and I think you have your answer! Jona, one more aspect to these cars to remember; the LS can be made to appear in good condition with very little effort from the seller. Always have the car inspected by a professional and get the best documentation (carproof/carfax, etc) you can before buying. Unscrupulous sellers often hide probs such as fluid leaks, engine noise, body damage, bent suspension, etc with various tricks. A trained eye can often spot these probs before they become yours. Also, if you can't afford any surprises, then allow yourself a reasonable budget (aside from what you're spending on purchasing the car) for unexpected repairs. AVnIa

We knew it was coming, but the timing is definitely a surprise! No shows at most of the car show circuit, international economies shattered .... but it seems none of that matters ... when a supercar is ready, just as in giving birth, there's no holding back! No doubt in the next while we will be inundated with coverage, and I for one will eat up every last detail ... but for now, here's some coverage for those of us who've been impatiently waiting for Toyota to release this Japanese answer to the world's elite collection of supercars. http://www.autocar.co.uk/News/NewsArticle/Lexus-LF-A/244317/ http://thestar.blogs.com/crank/2009/10/lex...eaks-cover.html http://www.wheels.ca/article/782590 http://www.popsci.com/cars/article/2009-10...toyota-supercar http://www.nationalpost.com/cars/story.html?id=2133665 From Lexus: http://www.lexus.com/fcv/lf_a.html All kinds of videos: http://www.youtube.com/results?search_quer..._type=&aq=f

When was the TB last done (mileage) and were the idlers, WP, etc done at that time?

You need to load test the alt at idle and at about 2k rpm.

Since you've just replaced the alt, it seems a likely place to start. First I would check that all your charging system connections/grounds are secure and tight. Then test the alt output.

Wedging the tires and testing your setup is only common sense that I hope most diy will use when under the car. When I want some good clearance I visit a buddy's shop. He's a diesel mechanic and works on Prevost & MCI coaches. They have these huge ramps that get my car way up. Over the winter I'm going to make a set for myself. I'll post some pics when I'm done. Btw, the cell is a great idea!

As Hillsndale suggests, if this happened right after the service, have your mechanic check all connections that might not be secure, sensors, vacuum lines etc.