eatingupblacktop

Good point! It's surprising how much is taken for granted because it's automatic for those of us who are familiar with the process and assumed that the op already knows the small details. Yes, make sure it's high temp (usually thicker).

I missed the potion of your post that you haven't changed the fluid for a few years. I'd have to agree with 007 that it's time to flush the system. Even though it's for an LS and the details are different, here's a diy tutorial: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/bleeding.html

I would have stayed with oem, but that's a personal choice. Yeah, use the shims that come with the pads since they're made to fit. I would apply the grease to both sides of the shim opposite the pistons. On the piston side, I would apply to the one side of the shim that faces the backside of the pad only. Also while you're there, check the caliper hose for any cracks or bulges and make sure you support the caliper properly so as not to stress that hose. Having fun yet?

Although there is no direction for greasing the shims in this TSB, keep in mind it's addressing a specific prob and doesn't encompass all aspects of replacing brake pads. If you look at pg 3, it shows application to the caliper on the opposite side of the pistons. This could just as well be the shim or the backside of the pad. In his tutorial, LexLS shows how to apply the grease but leaves it up to you whether to apply or not. If you have left out the shims whenever you do your brakes with no probs, as RDM writes, then there would be no reason to change. The choice is yours.

There are a number of websites where you can view TSB's. Two popular ones are Chilton and ARRC, available through many public libraries. Many libraries allow access from outside the library premises through a library website using a userid and password. A school in the Toronto area "left its barn door open" and you can get to ARRC (Auto Repair Reference Center) and view TSB's and other information without a library userid and password: http://www.senecac.on.ca/library/resources/ebsco_arrc.html Very generous of them isn't it! You can also get them from your dealer.

Click on the Browse button, Use the "Choose File to Upload" window to find and open the photo on your PC, and then click the UPLOAD button before you click the "Add Reply" button. Multiple attachments can be added to an original post or a reply ... perform the Browse and UPLOAD over and over. Wow...lol I don't know how I missed that last night...lol Thanks for pointing it out. I am about to change the brakes and have thought about trying to do a DIY and wanted to be able to upload a few pics. Thanks for the response! Michael Hey Michael, the club can always use another diy! To post images, try using a facility like Photobucket. With that site, you would first upload the images, then once they're on, just place your cursor over the image. A popup will appear. Near the bottom of this popup you will see the image code. Slide your cursor down to this code, highlight it, copy it, then insert it into your loc post. Photobucket gives you control over your image size and has some basic editing tools.

That's the spirit! Just remember to keep an eye on the reservoir level as 007 mentioned, and don't overtighten the screws! Couple other things, when bleeding calipers, do the opposite to LexLS's excellent tutorial. When pushing the pistons back in, make sure the reservoir cap has not been removed. Otherwise you won't build any pressure. Also make sure you have more fluid than what you think you might need. A little bit more is always better than just not enough!

I have never had a problem, but it is possible to mess the caliper up using a clamp without first bleeding the caliper. If you loosen up the bleeder screw you will need to bleed the system. its easy tho :P just get a friend to pump the brakes 3 times then on the 3rd time have them hold pressure on it while you bleed the air....tighten the screw back up and repeat this process on each caliper until you have all the air removed and you just see fluid coming out. be sure to keep the brake master cylinder topped off so it doesn't run out while your bleeding the system (it'll suck air into the system otherwise) GOOD LUCK! To bleed the caliper without having to bleed the system just make sure the bleeder is open only under pressure and only slightly to keep the pressure up. In other words, only open the screw when pressure is being applied to the pistons. Close the screw before releasing the piston. Easy peasy! Personally, I bleed the caliper and the rubber hose when replacing pads. Takes no time and you get fresh fluid into that section. Again no probs, just switch pressure from the caliper to the brake pedal. Having extra long legs and arms helps, but the best solution is to have a second body.

not sure if there is a difference/problem , between temp setting and actual cabin temp but wife and i are finding cabin quite warm at "18" (She had questioned her sanity soon after marrying me) ! Thanks for response-relief to know car is "normal" I think it's much better to have warm relations with the wife/girlfriend than cool or frosty! Of course if you're not sitting in separate seats, you will likely have to set it to MAX COLD! ;)

Nothing major here but if you wanted to, you could push it and ask for them to put in what you specified, now rather than at your next service. However I would be more concerned that there was a breakdown in communications. If it happens for something as simple as a drain, then what should you expect for service that's more involved? Some shops work to a routine and use parts that they're comfortable with and is expedient for them without regard to what the customer might ask for. Whether it's a grab for greater profit, poor memnory, a lazy attitude, or whatever, you can minimize the ocurrence by checking what's put on the paperwork before they start the work and you sign the order. No arguments with a written document! Any kind of substitution for service or parts by a shop should only be done with the knowledge and approval of the customer. I think the service mgr just doesn't value synthetic as much as you do. It's hard to find shops that take as much care in servicing your car as you do or would like, but when you find one, they're gold!

If you're not due for a flush, then it's just a precautionary step that's a no brainer because there's nothing to it. Here's the link to a previous post on this subject that you might find helpful: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=391197

As some say, "Variety is the spice of life"! Others say, "Opinions only matter when they're your own"! Which brings us to what I say ... If you drive like 1990, then his method of servicing his brakes makes sense except I don't think my dealer would accept peanuts. lol As for the sensors, if you are a diy, then you should be aware of not only the condition of your brakes but vitually the whole car. If you're not, then the sensors do function for those who have other priorities and are willing to spend the peanuts for what some would label as a silly expediture. As for turning rotors ... a slightly warped rotor would definitely benefit from machining. The question is ... for how long? Even a quality disc, if sufficiently overheated, can suffer metal fatigue which cannot be repaired by machining. Such a condition would lead a turned rotor to begin warping again at the first instance of overheating (heavy braking). A rotor that has worn to a high spot (due to defective manufacturing) will also benefit from machining, but only until enough material subsequently wears to reveal the defect again. Personally, if I have a warped rotor, I simply replace. So it could be said, service your brakes according to your own condition. I've attached a Lexus TSB (parsed from a pdf) for anyone interested in the finer details of greasing your brakes:

Trunk harness?

Yeah Depot, you can reuse the shims and I would apply some brake quiet. Here's a previous post I made if you want some other tips: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...st&p=391197

So does that make you "Billy Diddly"? :P

Do you notice any change when you rev the engine or drive vs idle? If the trunk harness is ok, I'd check your charging system.

Yes, thanks, I got it (download), do you know where the index is?? Hey Billy, After you dnld it just copy it to wherever you want and it should unzip to a folder called "2000 Lexus LS 400 - Complete". Open the folder and the directory is right there. ;)

Have you checked for dtc's? what are dtcs? Diagnostic Trouble Codes. Once you pull the codes you can look them up them here: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...?showtopic=3725

Have you checked for dtc's?

When did you last check the tranny fluid level? Is your batt fully charged? Don't know why he would, but is it possible that he made contact with any tranny sensors/solenoids while he was under there?

I'd say that's a pretty good summary. The 250 hp in my gen1 is plenty for me. An extra 50 would just be icing on the cake. Of course we're talking sedans here. Go into a different catagory and naturally, you have to realign the priorities. :whistles:

are you kidding me??? Honda more of a performance car??? SUBARU more of a performance car?? Lexus almost as reliable as a Cadillac???? I don't know which comment makes less sense... :o I couldn't agree with you more. I think this guy has lost all credibility and some of those comments make me think he needs to get off the dope. Me thinks Danny's been listening to "Bent Brakes" Betty again (that boy should really find some new playmates) :chairshot: :

You got that right! As you say, it becomes really obvious when you have a different make sitting right beside the LS, like I do with my Volvo. In my case it's not so much a tinker toy as it is a PITA in many ways. The B280F in my Volvo is a PRV collaboration. Pugeot, Renault and Volvo hashed it out and came up with what is basically a V8 with 2 cylinders cut off. The 90 degree cylinder banks and uneven firing sequence make for a lumpy idle which can't be corrected. Placement of some parts like a coolant hose behind the intake manifold requiring the removal of the manifold just to replace it, makes you wonder what the designers had in mind when they created this placement. Cam wear was a big problem because the exhaust valves shared a single lobe, while inlet valves had a lobe each and they were made from a soft alloy. It's engine design by committee. Always a crapshoot. Not to mention the horrors of the interior - trim/switches/fading colors/cheap plastic peices, etc. The best part and perhaps only good part of this car were the seats. Even though the leather was not very durable, the seats were and still are among the most comfortable I've sat in. Lexus could learn something here. The 1UZ-FE on the other hand (and some may not know this) was designed as an oversquare, 6 bolt racing engine and was based on CART and IRL engine design. As a result it's a pleasure to do WOT runs. It loves going into the higher revs, making all the right sounds and stays smooth all the way up!. It's also one of the smoothest engines I've driven. The ad Toyota ran when they introduced the LS, showing the pyramid of wine glasses sitting on the hood with the engine running, pretty much says it all. Every time I work on this engine, I'm impressed with the quality of the materials Toyota used. They're just plain superior to most other manufacturers. Engines like the 1UZ-FE actually motivate you to maintain them. Nevertheless, I've been delaying doing an oil change while it's garaged for the winter because the first thing I want to do after one is take her for a spin.:whistles:

Laney, Id be careful about using that fuel light to tell you when to refill. It's there as a low fuel level warning and should be used for that purpose only. I'd stay above the quarter tank level in the summer and half tank level in the winter. Personally, I keep the fuel full all the time in the winter. The less fuel in your tank, the more condensation you get. You can't see the fuel that's going into your tank and all the crud from the bottom of the stations tanks that might be going in right along with it. When you get to the warning light, you're sucking up whatever crap is at the bottom of your tank. Besides plugging up your filter, if there's enough water down there you risk freezing the fuel lines in the winter. Last thing I want to happen when there's a blizzard about and I'm still 25 miles from home!

My guess is that your new stat is not opening as much as the old one and the increase in coolant temp is causing the ecu to lean out the fuel mix just enough that the O2 sensors don't factor in. Maybe you've increased the tire pressure just enough to make the diff.