RDM

Speakers are simple to replace. What you buy doesn't matter to much, they're all going to sound about the same at that size and power level, best bet is to listen to each one to see if you prefer a particular model, some use different materials for speaker cones and/or tweeters so you get a little difference is total harmonics.

You cannot tighten a timing belt. The tension is done by a hydraulic tensioner, unless the tensioner is bad there's nothing you can do besides replacing the belt. As for the serpentine belt, there is no adjustment either. It's tensioned by a spring loaded tensioner, it could be bad, or one of the pulleys is bad or worn and causing noise.

That hose in question does indeed go to the valve cover, it's a breather. It connects to the bottom of the throttle body to a similar nipple. If it's short, the hose may have been cut or more likely became brittle from underhood heat and broke off when last removed, you can just buy a piece of heater hose to replace it or leave it open, but put a filter of some sort on it, some oil blowby will come out of it and get all over the engine of left open. Mine is open but with a piece of hose draining into a small container that I use as a catch can because I don't like the vapors being sucked in and reburned in the engine, it gunks up the intake plenum.

I don't remember the wire color offhand, but all you need to do is find the disarm wire from either key cylinder in the front doors and ground it. That way the alarm will never arm with the key or remote, but the remaining functions of the keyless entry will work fine. Basically the key cylinder sends a ground trigger when unlocked to disarm the alarm, by grounding it permanently the system cannot arm.

I will agree, it's not a labor intensive job. I swapped my entire interior a few years ago for gray since the tan looks like puke, the dash is easy to pull but is NOT required when doing the evaporator, you just pull the glovebox, lower dash, ECU, and a few other things, it then slides right out. Most Japanese cars are built this way, all of the Nissans and Toyotas I've worked on in the past are similar in that a few trim pieces are all that's needed to take it out. You can easily do it yourself and save the labor, just have the A/C shop vacuum the system first, then let them recharge it.

I also agree with not replacing them as a set being a bad idea. Any time you replace suspension components of any kind it is always suggested to do both sides as a pair, while you know the driver side shocks are blown how can you be sure the passenger side isn't a few days from it too? Anything under the car wears the minute you drive on it and since road conditions and such differ the shocks will all wear differently, so there's no good way to know the limits on the current parts. You may end up making the car even more dangerous to drive with a brand pair only on one side. For the money I would eliminate the air system and go with regular spring on shock setups.

Although these replies are all good, why not just pull the codes since the check engine light is on? That will narrow down your search path considerably.

For the money repairing it is a better option, do you really want to buy a used one and have it go out in a few months? Repaired units are warrantied at least, there's no guarantee with a used one that it will even last through the shipping process.

We've discussed this. Nothing will bolt directly in, you'll have to modify the rails/tracks.

A fuse would have nothing to do with the problem he's having. A blown fuse incompletes a circuit, period. It doesn't work when it feels like it.

Hopefully it's easier than the early models. On the 90-94 you have to remove the window to access the lower screws, there's also about 10 plastic clips on each one that will ALL break and need replacing. They're about $4 each. The little tabs that the screws go in to are stamped on the window frame and very brittle, all of mine broke loose forcing me to restamp then solder then in place. All in all it was a major undertaking I would never attempt again, and I'm one to pull an engine just to do an oil pump, so that's saying a ton.

I would try a salvage yard first. For my 1992 those pieces run $716 and change for the front doors, $644 for the rears. They are stupidly expensive. The black portion is actually a sticker on the older models (maybe the new ones too), mine were scuffed up a bit and the chrome was showing underneath so I had them powdercoated a gunmetal color after I found out how much new ones were. Looks a ton better than the chrome/black.

I have this exact kit: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Tools-Front-Se...l/dp/B000FEDLAM but found it on Ebay for like $80. Since I do a ton of service work on my own cars, friends, and family members it has become invaluable to have around. Most auto parts stores will rent a similar kit for pretty cheap if you don't think you'll ever use it much.

I've noticed a common issue on earlier models is the rear axle carrier bushings, ADUS sells a urethane replacement set (part #505) and a quick search of that will show you the one in question. Mine are completely torn apart allowing for the rear lower link to twist and rattle up/down, I've got the ADUS bushings but have yet to have a time to put them in. Those alone can allow for rear wheel wobble and increased tire wear.

You cannot replace the upper ball joint on it's own, it requires a complete replacement Aarm. Luckily there's an aftermarket source for $199 a pair for new arms with ball joints and bushings, they make a dramatic improvement in handling and raod feel. Alignment is not required after replacement since they're not adjustable. The lower ball joint is simple to replace, two bolts secure it to the spindle, and as said if you use a screw type puller like this one: http://audi.kris-hansen.com/images/fca5.jpg or this: http://www.classiccougar.net/ViTech/contro...es/image014.jpg, it's literally a 5minute job per side.

You can remove the valve while the pump is still mounted, it's tight but not impossible. Go to a hydraulic supply store and find a suitable plug of the same thread pitch, dab some RTV on it and screw it in. This is a better method as the valve will continue to weep fluid, even if it's capped off from the intake. Plugging in ensures the leak is permanently sealed. I want to say it was maybe an M14x1.5 pitch, but it's been a while since I did mine.

Why would you think you'd get a warning? Typical oil pressure switches on cars are simple devices, they trip when oil pressure reaches a preset point, say 8psi. As long as the oil pressure remains above that the oil can leak out any and everywhere it can. The amount of oil in the engine doesn't matter, nor does the age/mileage. Too many people assume an oil light means it's time for an oil change or to add a little, that has nothing to do with pressure. In fact your oil pressure is definitely good if it's found a way out of the engine by leaking, a lower pressure would not leak as readily.

You have the remove the inner liner of the console, the 'box', to access the remaining screws securing the hinges.

It's not transmission related in the way you're concerned. The shiftlock and release mechanism is a separate unit with an electric solenoid, though the override is mechanical. You can remove the wood trim easily and look down in the shifter to see what part isn't releasing, and go from there. It's not a huge issue though and certainly not signs of a huge expense.

I'm surprised it's not well known on here, I found the original site (I think it was cureline.net) several years ago after doing a basic google search on LS400 performance. It was a HUGE site with links to numerous parts from Japan and other places, and probably more pictures than any three dozen other sites around with full details about every aspect of the car. Guy put as much time into the site as he did money into the car.

I disagree. Seals wear out all the time, it's just a piece of rubber wrapped around a steel retainer. I've replaced dozens on all sorts of cars over the years, Toyotas included. My rear main has been leaking for over a year but I'm not ready to drop the transmission yet, but as that's said anytime I do a clutch job I replace the rear main, leaking or not. For the effort to get to the crank seal on a 1UZ it seems stupid to ignore it just to go back in later and do the entire job over again. The timing belt has to come off to get the crank gear off to gain access to the seal, you're already there anyway. Maybe you guys have magic seals in other parts of the World, but I don't know of any car I've ever serviced that wasn't at least wet with oil by 80k miles. On the 1UZ you can't visibly see a small leak since there's a plastic cover over it, but that doesn't mean it's not leaking. Unless you're seriously incompetent the replacement procedure is very easy, although I'm sure some people have had the experience of scoring the crank or pushing the seal in wrong and having a worse leak than before. Not being skilled at it is good incentive to not do it, but it's not an excuse.

Salvage yards. www.car-part.com Or try a rebuilder to get yours repaired. Plenty online, just google it.

If you're driving through water, sand, or other debris, I would suggest replacing it. I don't have one though because as it's been said, mine was destroyed from abuse already as most are. You can easily make a replacement one out of tin or sheetmetal if you'd really like to be serious, and cut an access hole for the oil filter or even make a removable panel. I did that on my car that I race, but the Lexus is daily driven and doesn't go through swamps or deserts so I don't feel it's worth the effort. Plus if you're worried about light water intrusion you shouldn't ever wash the car either. The engine is meant to be washed gently once in a while and everything is water safe to a point, a little puddle splash from below it's going to damage or short out anything.

I did mine when I did the timing belt. Every car I ever teardown I do anything related while I'm in, cam and crank seals are no exception. They're easy to do (the cam seals have a cap that comes off, the crank just pries out with a puller) and are cheap enough to buy, why not do it? Rubber breaks down over time and especially with the heat from the 1UZ. I haven't had 30 years experience with Toyotas but over my 16 years of import auto repair I've seen a lot of leaking crank seals, a few being Toyotas and with way less mileage than 300k. My brother's '98 Camry began pouring from both the front and rear seals at about 89k miles, I just did another Camry a month ago with about 120k that was leaking heavily too. It's added insurance.

It's been done. The site is no longer up but if you search cardomain.com (I know, it's horridly childish, but the car is in there) you'll find a black widebody 1st gen with more money in it than two new LS460s. The guy has a single turbo 2JZ making over 700hp if I recall and a huge audio system with a dozen speakers in each door. Not my cup of tea but I do admire the efforts. Edit, I got bored : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/409848 That way you don't have to wade through the other ghetto trash to find it.